Table Of Contentmedieval masterchef
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medieval and post-medieval
mediterranean archaeology series
OGGGYY.SERRRIIEESS.MMEEDIEEEVVVVAAL.
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CCCRRRRAANN.AAAENNAAAARRRRRRREETTIIDDEEMM.LAAVVVVEEEIDEMMTTSS.
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Cover illustration:
samuel serves within the temple
Old Testament miniatures, ms m. 638, fol. 20r – Maciejowski Bible, ca. 1244-1254, Paris, France
Purchased by J.P. Morgan (1867-1943) in 1916
Courtesy of Th e Morgan Library & Museum, New York
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MEDIEVAL MASTERCHEF
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archaeological and historical perspectives
on eastern cuisine and
western foodways
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edited by
JOANITA VROOM
YONA WAKSMAN
ROOS VAN OOSTEN
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H
F
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medieval and post-medieval
mediterranean archaeology series – ii
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Series editor
dr. joanita vroom
Leiden University (nl)
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editorial board
Prof. John Haldon, Princeton University (usa)
Dr. Archibald Dunn, University of Birmingham (uk)
Prof. Sauro Gelichi, University of Venice (it)
Prof. Scott Redford, soas, University College London (uk)
Prof. Enrico Zanini, University of Siena (it)
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Typesetting & book design
steven boland
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printed
on acid-free paper
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© 2017
brepols publishers n.v., turnhout, belgium
All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanic, photocopying,
recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.
isbn 978-2-503-57579-7 (printed version)
isbn 978-2-503-57611-4 (online version)
doi 10.1484/m.mpmas-eb.5.113395
d/2017/0095/104
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Contents
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List of contributors 7
joanita vroom, yona waksman & roos van oosten – Preface 13
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early medieval & early islamic period
johanna maria van winter 25
Arabic influences on European Medieval cuisine
josé c. carvajal lópez & miguel jiménez puertas 33
Cuisine, islamisation and ceramics in the south and east of al-Andalus
yasemin baĞci & joanita vroom 63
Dining habits at Tarsus in the Early Islamic period:
A ceramic perspective from Turkey
lubna omar 95
Approaching Medieval cuisine: Employing zoo-archaeological methods
on Anatolian faunal assemblages
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medieval period
ruth smadar gabrieli, yona waksman, 119
anastasia shapiro & alessandra pecci
Cypriot and Levantine cooking wares in Frankish Cyprus
joanita vroom & elli tzavella 145
Dinner time in Athens: Eating and drinking in the Medieval Agora
johanna maria van winter 181
Festive meals in the Late Middle Ages: An essay on alimentation
as means of communication
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contents
roos van oosten 193
A Medieval cooking revolution: Changing ceramic cookware ca. 1300
as a window into cooking infrastructure, fuel, and food transitions
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late medieval & early modern period
mauro librenti, cecilia moine & lara sabbionesi 223
From table to identity: Understanding social changes through tableware
(A case study of San Paolo in Modena, Italy)
alexandra van dongen 245
Global dining with Erasmus: The Early Modern European dining table
van verrocchio 257
Material culture in Early Modern Abruzzo, Italy: Archival and archaeological sources
filiz yenişehirlioğlu 291
A journey of taste: Eastern coffee and western coffee cups in Turkey
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medieval masterchef in the kitchen
claudia vandepoel 311
Blanc Manger, cooking a historical recipe made for a Tudor king
joanita vroom, mink van ijzendoorn, 323
marten van nieuwkoop & katelin post
A matter of taste: The experiment of a ‘Byzantine food lab’ placed in socio-historical
context
mary c. beaudry 353
Epilogue: Mastering the art of Medieval European table culture
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list of figures & colour plates 357
index of geographical names & food 367
colour plates 369
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List of contributors
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yasemin bağcı is currently a PhD candidate at the Faculty of Archaeology of Leiden University
(Near Eastern Archaeology). Her PhD focuses on the Early Islamic pottery finds of the 1935-1948
Tarsus-Gözlükule excavations in Turkey. She started studying Post-Antique ceramics for her Mas-
ter’s thesis under the supervision of S. Redford at Koç University, in particular the Late Medieval
pottery from the Archaeological Museum of Istanbul. Between 2011 and 2015, she was employed by
J. Vroom in the vidi research project ‘Material Culture, Consumption and Social Change: New Ap-
proaches to Understanding the Eastern Mediterranean during Byzantine and Ottoman Times’ (funded
by nwo). Her expertise covers Medieval and Post-Medieval ceramics from the Middle East.
mary c. beaudry is Professor of Archaeology, Anthropology, and Gastronomy at Boston Univer-
sity. Her research interests include historical and industrial archaeology of the Americas and British
Isles, archaeology of food, households and domestic life, and the material culture of cookery and din-
ing. Her recent books include Archaeology of Food: An Encyclopedia (co-edited with Karen Bescherer
Metheny, 2015) and Beyond the Walls: New Perspectives on the Archaeology of Historical Households
(co-edited with Kevin Fogel and James Nyman, 2015). Email: [email protected]
jose c. carvajal lópez is Lecturer in Islamic Archaeology at UCL Qatar. By training he is a
specialist in the archaeology of al-Andalus (Islamic Iberia) and in pottery analysis. He has studied
the Early Islamic period in the Vega of Granada (southeast Spain, 7th-11th centuries ce), mainly
through morpho-typological and technological studies of pottery that include petrological as well
as elemental analysis. He has published about Islamisation and about the development of the archae-
ology of al-Andalus. At the moment he is developing fieldwork projects in Qatar, Palestine and Iraqi
Kurdistan. He is the director of two projects with QNRF funding: ‘Materiality and Preservation in
Islamic Contexts’ and ‘The Crowded Desert’.
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medieval masterchef
alexandra van dongen is a museologist and art historian. She has been working at the Boijmans
Van Beuningen Museum in Rotterdam (nl) since 1986, initially as assistant-curator and from 1992
onwards as curator of pre-industrial design. Her specialism focuses on decorative domestic artefacts
dating from the Middle Ages through the 19th century. In 2011 she launched the online research
project alma (Art Meets Artefacts): www.alma.boijmans.nl/en/. She is a member of codart and
icom/icdad, and board member of Foundation The Time Stairs. With Alma Ruempol she pub-
lished Pre-industrial Utensils 1150-1800 (Rotterdam, 1991).
smadar gabrieli is an independent researcher, affiliated with the University of Sydney and the
University of Western Australia, and currently a Marie-Curie Fellow at the saxo Institute, Uni-
versity of Copenhagen. She works as a ceramics specialist at excavations in Israel and in Cyprus,
focusing on hand-made pottery industries from Late Antiquity to the Crusader and Mamluk peri-
ods. Recent publications include articles on regional development of handmade pottery in Medieval
Cyprus (Cypriot Medieval Ceramics: Reconsiderations and New Perspectives, 2014), on craft-special-
ization of handmade pottery in the Levant and Cyprus (Medieval and Post-Medieval Ceramics in
the Eastern Mediterranean, 2015), and with B.J. Walker and D. Ben-Shlomo on production of the
Hand Made Geometrically Painted Mamluk pottery (in the Journal of Islamic Archaeology 1, 2014).
miguel jiménez puertas is an independent scholar who holds since 1999 a PhD in Medieval His-
tory from the University of Granada (Spain). His research interests include history and archaeology
of Islamic Spain, and in particular he has worked on studies of settlement patterns, pottery, and
agrarian and economic history. His main publications are the monograph El poblamiento del terri-
torio de Loja en la Edad Media (Granada, 2002), in which he develops a full study of the settlement
patterns and material culture of the area of Loja in south-east Spain; Los regadíos tradicionales del
territorio de Loja (Loja, 2007), an archaeological analysis of early medieval irrigation systems; and
‘Studies in the Early Medieval Pottery of al-Andalus’ (in Early Medieval Europe 19, 2011).
mauro librenti is a professor of Post-Medieval Archaeology at Ca’ Foscari University, Venice
(Italy). His main scholarly interests are focused on dynamics of rural and urban settlements and
material culture, especially from religious communities during the Late Middle Ages and the Early
Modern Era. His most recent article is: Territorio e insediamento tardomedievale tra Emilia e Ro-
magna (in Archeologia Medievale 43, 2016).
cecilia moine is a post-doctoral researcher at Ca’ Foscari University, Venice (Italy); her main area
of interest is social archaeology, with a particular focus on the Late Middle Ages. Recently, her inter-
ests moved to landscape analysis and relationship between man and environment. A recent article of
hers is: Definire lo spazio e organizzare la mensa: Il Trecento a Venezia (in Archeologia Medievale 43,
2016, with M. Ferri and C. Moine).
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list of contributors
marten van nieuwkoop studied Byzantine and Frankish ceramics under the supervision of
J. Vroom at the Faculty of Archaeology of Leiden University. In 2015 he finished his Master’s thesis
titled On Vessels and Viands: Cooking and Consuming during the Late Byzantine/Frankish Period in
the Aegean (ca. 1200-1500 ad).
lubna omar is a zooarchaeologist and viositing professor at the Anthropology Faculty of suny
Binghamton University (usa). She carried out field work in Syria, Jordan, Turkey and Japan, but her
primary research focus is north Mesopotamia, where she worked on reconstructing the socio-eco-
nomic patterns of several urban centers using the analysis of animal remains. Currently, she is work-
ing on publishing the results of her previous field work from Syrian sites to highlight the importance
of documenting archaeological work in this critical region. Her publications include various articles
in Al-Rafidan, (2010); The Archaeological Review from Cambridge Human and Animal (2013) and in
Eurasian Journal of Anthropology (2014, with A.C. Erkman).
roos van oosten is Assistant Professor of Urban and Medieval Archaeology at the Faculty of
Archaeology, Leiden University (nl). Her main research focus is on sanitation management and
urbanization in the preindustrial period (1200-1800). A secondary focus is preindustrial ceramic
distribution patterns in relation to long-term economic trends. She is on the editorial board of Me-
diaeval and Modern Matters, a member of the advisory board of the Dutch classification system
for Late-Medieval and Post-Medieval ceramics and glass, and chairperson of the Dutch Society for
Medieval Archaeology. Her PhD thesis is published in Dutch with the title De stad, het vuil en de
beerput. De opkomst, verbreiding en neergang van de beerput in stedelijke context (Leiden, 2015). In
2017 she starts a veni project, funded by nwo, with the title ‘Challenging the Paradigm of Filthy and
Unhealthy Medieval Towns’.
alessandra pecci is a ‘Ramón y Cajal’ researcher at eraaub, Departamento de Historia i Ar-
queologia, Universidad de Barcelona, where she teaches and does research. Her specialization is Ar-
chaeometry and in particular the residue analysis of ceramics and floors. With the aim to understand
ceramic use and foodways, activity areas and the use of space in Ancient buildings, her work is fo-
cused on the study of food practices in Ancient times. She has published more than 110 articles, book
chapters and books, and has organized International Conferences, Summer Schools, Workshops and
Conference Sessions. She collaborates with many institutions in Europe, usa and Mexico and has
worked in national and international projects in Italy, Spain, France, Morocco, Turkey and Mexico.
katelin post has studied Byzantine ceramics for her Bachelor’s thesis under the supervision of
J. Vroom at the Faculty of Archaeology of Leiden University. In 2017 she will finish her thesis titled
in Dutch ‘Wit Byzantijns aardewerk in beeld. Een onderzoek naar de clasificatie, iconografie en
distributie van wit geglazuurd Byzantijns aardewerk’.
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