Masala Farm: Stories and Recipes from an Uncommon Life in the Country

290 Pages·2011·8.43 MB·English

by  Suvir Saran

Stories and Recipes from an Uncommon Life in the Country
by Suvir Saran
with Raquel Pelzel and Charlie Burd
Photographs by Ben Fink
Dedication
There are a number of beings—human and animal—to whom I dedicate this
book.
To Nana (my maternal grandfather, Chaman Lal Bhardwaj) and Michael
Batter-berry, two grand men, who lived separated by seas and continents but
who lived lives quite similar in the brilliance of their content, the richness of
their thoughts, and the ideas and inspiration that they left behind for countless
many. My most supportive and loving influencers, I wish you new chapters of
your lives and souls that are just as rich, or richer still. How blessed I am to have
been gifted by your presence.
To Karun Deep Sagar, my nephew, who I hope will continue to enrich and
better this grand world that Nana and Michael have left behind. Your destiny I
shall never see, but I know it will be full of riches, some waiting to be
discovered, others better because you have already found them. The farm is as
much yours as ours. Enjoy it for what it is, a symbol of life everlasting.
To Charlie, Seema, and Ajit—three pillars of strength that I have had on my
side, always. Charlie, thanks for your constant and epic partnership. Thanks also
for always having my life organized so that I can keep sharing and learning
every day from my travels through this land and others. Seema and Ajit, thanks
for being siblings and elders—all at once. I am blessed, what more can I say?
To Kali, beloved cat of many memorable years, who never allowed a
moment to pass without making her presence known, and to Simba, who deeply
mourned Kali’s passing but consoled us with his acute desire to cuddle and hug.
Kali, you were the ultimate gourmand who enjoyed Battenkill Valley Creamery
milk every bit as much as we do. No other milk was ever good enough.
To the blue heron that was here, picking a fish from the pond every time we
came to see the house before we bought it—an early omen for me that this was
the farm we wanted. We are lucky she comes back daily. And to all the other
lives, big and small, that inhabit the farm today, and shall tomorrow: This farm is
more yours than it is ours. Your presence makes us feel blessed. Your joy is ours
doubled. Your safety our mission. May you always prosper and keep our home
and lives enriched by your presence.

Table of Contents
Foreword
INTRODUCTION: City Boys, Country Masala
CHAPTER ONE: SPRING
Anticipation, Patience, and Delicious Rewards
Goat Cheese and Herb Frittata
Cauliflower, Chèvre, And Onion Quiche
Farm Yarn: Goat’s Milk Surprise
Scratch Bean Salad with Basil and Roasted Peppers
Pasta Primavera
Asparagus And Green Pea Risotto With Fresh Herb Tarka
Farmhouse Crispy-Creamy Potatoes
Warm Egg Salad on Croissants with Country Bacon and Arugula
Farm Yarn: Drop-Ins Welcome!
Maryann’s Stuffed Grape Leaves
Thin-Crust Pizza Margherita
Charlie’s Herby Marinara
Summerfield Farm’s Lamb Pastrami
Farm Yarn: The Courthouse Community Garden
Ginger-Soy Fresh Ham with Roasted Garlic
Banana-Caramel Pudding
Spiced Rhubarb Jam
Rhubarb and Raspberry Cobbler with Crème Fraîche
Almost-Flourless Caramel-Lacquered Chocolate-Peanut Torte
CHAPTER TWO: SUMMER
Sweet Corn, Snap Peas, and a Steady Stream of New Faces
Deviled Eggs with Cilantro, Chiles, and Spices
Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes, Onions, and Herbs
Grandma Mae’s Biscuits
Farm Yarn: Teaching Kids to Eat Well
Country Salad with Five Vinaigrette Variations
Ginger and Shoyu Vinaigrette
North Country Balsamic Vinaigrette
Summer Tisane Vinaigrette
Tangy Buttermilk-Tarragon Dressing
Southeast Asian Dressing
Cabbage Slaw with Fresh Herbs and Peanuts
Chunky Eggplant Dip
Simple Marinated Peppers
Summer Tomato Pie
Farm Yarn: Trading County Fair for Country Fare
Penne with Popped Tomatoes and Bacon
Farm Yarn: A Proud Pantry
Shrimp and Sweet Corn Curry
Salt-Roasted Whole Trout
Garam Masala Roast Chicken
Juicy Turkey-Cheddar Burgers
Strawberries-and-Cream Ice Cream
Farm Yarn: Battenkill Valley Creamery
Seasonal Jam
Farm Yarn: u-pick, u-share
CHAPTER THREE: FALL
Embracing Autumnal Transitions and Traditions
Chai Cider
Arvest Apple-Craisin Chutney
Bread Pakoras
Farm Yarn: The Weed We Grew to Love
French Onion Soup
Peanut Chaat
Chaat Fries
“I Can’t Believe It’s Not Meat” Ragu Over Fettuccine
Farro and Mushroom Burgers
Peanut Fried Chicken
Farm Yarn: The Battenkill Kitchen
Herbed Pheasant Breasts with Spiced Pomegranate Reduction
Braised Kid Shanks and Lentils
Farm Yarn: Love is in the Air
Spicy Pulled Pork
Shirred Eggs with Pulled Pork
Rabbit Stew with Porcini and Picholines
Farm Yarn: Lock, Stock, and Two Smoking Barrels
Autumn Pear and Cranberry Cobbler
Apple Upside-Down Cake
Farm Yarn: apples galore
Rustic Double Apple Tart
Cognac-Cured Fruitcake
Upstate Apple Butter
CHAPTER FOUR: WINTER
A Rekindling of Community
Old-Fashioned Eggnog
Farm Yarn: eBay for Eggs
Farmhouse Chai
Butternut Squash Chaat
Butternut Squash, Apple, and Cranberry Gratin
Sweet and Sour Butternut Squash
Roasted Manchurian Cauliflower
Farm Yarn: Goose Number 1,263
Sally’s Veggie Dumplings with Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce
Shortcut Potato and Pea Turnovers
Country Rabbit Terrine with Pistachios and Pernod
Rustic Rabbit Pâté with Juniper Berries
New Year’s Black-Eyed Pea Curry
Farm Yarn: The Three Faces Of Curry
Birbal Kee Khitcheree
Tamarind Chicken Wings
Farm Yarn: The Birds of American Masala Farm
Kerala Egg Roast
Veal Chops with Mustard-Herb Sauce
Masala Chateaubriand
Candy Cane Kisses
Cranberry and Dried Strawberry Free-Form Galette
Chocolate-Nut Brittle
Chocolate-Peanut Tart with Caramel and Chocolate Mousse
Farmhouse Basics
Farmhouse Resources
Index
About the Author

Foreword
Because I am a baker, most people assume that sweet things are my passion. In
truth, though I love to bake, I’ve always favored the flavor of spice. I was
captivated by Indian cuisine more than thirty years ago during a month-long visit
to India. It was not in restaurants, however, where I found the best food; it was in
the home of friends who had a gifted chef. Mealtime was the highlight of every
day, and it was never the same twice. I learned that Indian food isn’t just about
fire and spice; in the hands of a skilled cook, as well as being brilliantly vibrant,
it can be a kaleidoscope of complexity, balance, and subtlety. By the end of my
stay, it seemed that most other food was bland and uninteresting by comparison.
I longed to return to India, not just for the food but also for the exquisite
beauty of colors and crafts and the extraordinary warmth of the people. I never
expected to encounter all of this right in my own hometown until I met Suvir
Saran when I interviewed him for a Food Arts magazine story on sugar. Michael
Batterberry, founding editor, suggested that since we are both contributing
editors, I should speak to Suvir about the unrefined Indian sugar called jaggery.
After our first conversation, we became fast friends; many years later, Michael