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Edited by
ROBERT FOX and ANTHONY TURNER
www.routledge.com
LUXURY TRADES AND CONSUMERISM
IN ANCIEN REGIME PARIS
Studies in the History of the Skilled Workforce
'La Nlechanique' painted by Jean Jouvenet and engraved by Louis Simonneau for
Charles & Claude Perrault, Le Cabinet des Beaux Arts ... , Paris, 1690, 39-40.
The illustration underlines how, in the period covered by this book, the fine and
applied arts were increasingly indebted to applied science. It does so by depicting
the colonnades of the Louvre (designed by Claude Perrault) and the fine fabric
with intricate design constituting the muse Jlfechanim's robe. The stocking loom
behind the water-lifting wheel is that which the merrier Jean-Claude Hindret had
brought back from England and which Claude Perrault had studied, while the new
pendulum clock illustrates the archetypal marriage of mechanics and furniture
design. The books in the foreground symbolise the essential role that theory was
coming to play in the advancement of the arts in general. That the relevance of
Perrault's book, which covers all the liberal and applied arts, was felt by
practitioners of the skilled trades themselves is perhaps indicated by the fact that
it was sold not only by the engraver G. Edelinck but also by Andre-Charles Boulle,
the master inlay-worker, at the Galeries du Louvre.
LUXURY TRADES
AND CONSUMERISM
IN ANCIEN REGIME PARIS
Studies in the History of the
Skilled Workforce
edited by
Robert Fox and Anthony Turner
~l Routledge
~ ~
Taylor & Francis Group
LONDON AND NEW YORK
First published 1998 by Ashgate Publishing
Published 2016 by Routledge
2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN
711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017, USA
Routledge is an imprint oft he Taylor & Francis Group, an informa
business
Copyright © 1998 Robert Fox and A. J. Turner
All rights reserved. No part ofthis book may be reprinted or reproduced
or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means,
now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording,
or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in
writing from the publishers.
Notice:
Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks,
and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to
infringe
ISBN 9780860786641 (hbk)
ISBN 9781138275119 (pbk)
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
Luxury trades and consumerism in a11cim rigime Paris
1. Consumer goods-France-History-17th century 2.
Consumer goods-France-History-18th century 3. Skilled
labour-France-History-17th century 4. Skilled labour-
France-History-18th century 5. Luxuries-France-History-
17th century 6. Luxuries-France-History-18th century
7. France-Economic conditions-17th century 8. France-
Economic conditions-18th century
I. Fox, Robert II. Turner, A.j.
330.9'44'03
lJS Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
Luxury trades and consumerism in muim regime Paris: studies in
the history of the skilled workforce/edited by Robert Fox and
Anthony Turner.
1. Manufacturing industrics-France-Paris-History-
Congresses. 2. Luxuries-France-Paris-History---Congresses.
3. Skilled labour-France-Paris-History-Congresses.
4. Consumption (Economics)-France-Paris-History-
Congrcsses. 5. Affiuent consumers-Francc-Paris-History-
Congresses. I. Fox, Robcrt. II. 'Ihrner, Anthony John.
HD9732.8.P37L88 1998 97-35615
331.11'422-dc21 CIP
Contents
List of illustrations VII
List of contributors XI
Foreword XII
Penelope Gouk
Publications arising from the Achievement Project XIV
Acknowledgements XV
Introduction XVI
Robert Fox and Anthony Turner
Part One Making
1. Les relieurs et doreurs de Paris au XVIe siecle 3
F abienne Le Bars
2. L'influence flamande sur l'orfevrerie parisienne au XVIe siecle 31
1Vichele Bimbenet-Privat
3. The Parisian fine binding trade in the last century of the
ancien regime 43
Giles Barber
4. Mathematical instrument-making in early modern Paris 63
Anthony Turner
Part Two Marketing
5. The manufacture and marketing of luxury goods: the marchands
merciers of late 17th- and 18th-century Paris 99
Carolyn Sargentson
6. Paris-Lyon-Paris: dialogue in the design and distribution of
patterned silks in the 18th century 139
Lesley Ellis .!};filler
a
7. Noel Gerard (1685-1736) et le Magasin General l'Hotel Jabach 169
Jean-Dominique Augarde
VI CONTENTS
Part Three Consuming
8. L'imaginaire comme support du luxe: les fetes royales de
Versailles de mai 1664 191
leaJ!-larques Gautier
9. Between a 'moral economy' and a 'consumer economy': clothes and
their function in the 17th and 18th centuries 219
Daniel Rorhe
10. Fashion's empire: trade and power in early 18th-century France 231
Jllirhael Sonensrher
Part Four Reflections
11. Luxury trades and consumerism 257
loan Thirsk
12. Some remarks on the metiers d'art 263
Franrois Crouzet
13. Producers, suppliers, and consumers: reflections on the
luxury trades in Paris r.1500-r.1800 287
Giflian Lew,is
Index 299
List of illustrations
a a
1.1 Reliure en veau brun decor estampe froid et argente, a
l'embleme (pore-epic) de Louis XII, roi de France (1498-1515),
aux armes de France (rehaussees de couleur) et de Bretagne (plat
superieur). Sur: Stoa (Giovanni F. Conti, dit Guinziano), De
Celeberrimae Parrhisiorum urbis laudibus sylva ... , Paris, J. de
Gourmont, 1514. In-4°. Bibliotheque nationale de France.
Reserve des Livres rares, Res. Velins 2125 9
a
1.2 Reliure en maroquin olive decor dore compose d'entrelacs
geometriques avec motifs de fers pleins et titre dore au centre,
executee pour Jean Grolier (1479-1565) dont l'ex-libris est dore
au bas du plat (plat superieur). Sur: Pio (Giovanni Baptista),
Annotamenta linguae latinae graecaeque, Bononiae, ]. A. Platonicus
de Benedictis, 1505. In-fol. Bibliotheque nationale de France.
Reserve des Livres rares, Res. Z 546 9
1.3 Reliure alia greca en maroquin brun clair a decor de rinceaux
peints sur un fond pointille dore, aux armes de Henri 11, roi de
France (1547-1559), pour la bibliotheque de Fontainebleau (plat
superieur et dos). Sur: Schoner (Johann), Opera mathematica ... ,
Norimbergae,]. van Berg et U. Neuber, 1551. ln-fol. Bibliotheque
nationale de France. Reserve des Livres rares, Res. J 75 11
a
1.4 Reliure en maroquin orange decor dore, seme de lis et de
flammes avec colombes du Saint-Esprit, aux armes et au chiffre de
Henri Ill, roi de France (1574-1589), executee par Nicolas Eve.
Sur: Le Livre des statuts et ordonnances du benoist Sainct Esprit, [Paris,
F. Morel, 1578]. ln-4°. Bibliotheque nationale de France. Reserve
des Livres rares, Res. V elins 1181 11
a
1.5 Reliure en maroquin rouge orne d'un decor la fanfare dense,
executee pour Jacques-Auguste de Thou (1553-1617) et Marie
de Barban~on-Cany, sa premiere femme (plat superieur et dos).
Sur: Mattioli (Pietro Andrea), I Disrorsi ... , Venetia, V. Valgrisi,
1568. ln-fol. Bibliotheque nationale de France. Reserve des 26
Livres rares, Res. Fol. Te138.57 A
Vlll CONTENTS
2.1 Coupe de saint Michel, Anvers, 1532. Vienne,
Kunsthistorisches Museum 34
a
2.2 Coupe cupules, Paris, Thibaut de Vauzelles, 1584-5.
Ecouen, 1\tf usee national de la Renaissance 36
2.3 Coupe de saint Michel: detail du saint l\llichel. Vienne,
Kunsthistorisches Museum 36
2.4 Signatures des lapidaires parisiens en 1587. Paris, Archives
nationales 38
2.5 Couvert pliant, Paris, 1605-6. Collection privee 38
2.6 Coupe provenant de la collection du cardinal de Joyeuse, Paris,
1583-4. Rome, Bibliotheque Vaticane, l\t1useo Sacro, inv. 1823 41
3.1 L. Bretez, Plan de Paris, 1739, area around the Sorbonne 45
3.2 D. Diderot et al., Encydopidie, plate volume VIII (1771 ), plate
5, showing finishers at work 49
3.3 Longus, Les Amours pastorales de Daphnis et de Chloe, Paris,
1718, 8°. Mosaic binding with the arms of the Regent.
Waddesdon Manor, National Trust. 51
3.4 G. Bruno, Spaccio defla bestia trionfante, London, 1584, 8".
Compartment mosaic. Waddesdon Manor, National Trust 53
3.5 Close-up of mosaic binding with decorated silver work and the
painted arms of Deume de la Chesnaie, both under mica.
Waddesdon Manor, National Trust 55
3.6 Eucologue, Paris, 1712, 12°. Floral mosaic binding. Waddesdon
Manor, National Trust 57
3.7 [Anne de Bourbon, Duchesse du Maine], 'Les grandes nuits
de Sceaux', 8°. Manuscript 1715, dentelle style binding c.
1780. Waddesdon Manor, National Trust 58
3.8 'Derome bird'. Waddesdon l\t1anor, National Trust 58
3.9 Du Perron, Discours sur la peinture, Paris, 1757, 8°. Plaque
binding with the arms of Madame de Pompadour. \Vaddesdon
Manor, National 'Trust 60
3.10 Le Sae re de Louis XV, Paris, 17 31, folio. Corner and side blocks.
Waddesdon Manor, National Trust 60
4.1 Proportional parts instrument by Philippe Danfrie 1589 as
drawn in two positions by A. Laussedat, Rfrhenhfs sur Ifs
imtrumets, les methodfs et le dfssin topoKfrtphiques, 2 vols, Paris,
1898, 1. 81. The instrument which, at the time that he
published it, may have belonged to Laussedat, still survives. 71
4.2 Broadsheet advertisement (second state) by Daniel Chorez for
his binocular telescope. Reproduced from 1\lme A. Heymann,
f.tmettes et lorKilfttt>s de jadis, Paris, 1911, pi 1 76
6.1 Joubert, Le Dessinateur pour les fabriques d'itoffes d'o1~ d'argent et
de soie, Paris, 1765, 58 153
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IX
6.2 Joubert, Le Dessinateur ... , 62 155
6.3 Joubert, Le Dessinateur ... , 70 158
6.4 Joubert, Le Dessinateur ... , 72 161
7.1 Armoire a trophee, debut XVIII" siecle, Versailles 183
7.2 Commode en secretaire, par Jacques-Philippe Care! 184
8.1 Gravure d'Israel Sylvestre. Le chateau, cote orangerie 194
8.2 Dessin du Char. Costumes d'Henry Gissey. BN Estampes, Oa
37 197
8.3 Gravure d'Israel Sylvestre. Comparse des quatre saisons 199
8.4 Gravure d'Israel Sylvestre. Course de bague 201
8.5 Pan et Diane. Voute de la galerie Farnese a Rome. Annibal
Carrache, vers 1600 203
8.6 Gravure de Israel Sylvestre. La Princesse d'E/ide 205
8.7 Dessin: Louis XIV, costume d'Henry Gissey. BN Estampes
Oa 37 207
8.8 Tapisserie de la premiere tenture de l'histoire de Don
Quichotte. Gobelins, vers 1714-1718. Collection privee.
Derail 209
8.9 Tapisserie de la premiere ten tu re de I 'histoire de Don
Quichotte. Gobelins, vers 1714-1718. Collection privec 211
