Lonely Planet Great Britain

1059 Pages·2017·68.25 MB·English

by  coll.

P
D
F
Great
Britain
PDF ebook
Edition 12th Edition
Release Date May 2017
Pages 1056
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4 easy-to-use How to use this book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
r 5
Beaches Eating
2 6
PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking
C 3
Courses Entertainment
Your planning tool kit
T 7
Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
ranges, by writer preference.
ON THE ROAD
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking t Tube
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning a pt apartments
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d double rooms
W Wi-fi access d m dorm beds
s Swimming pool q quad rooms
v Vegetarian selection r rooms
E English-language menu s single rooms
c Family-friendly ste suites
# Pet-friendly tr triple rooms
g Bus tw twin rooms
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Great
Britain
Inverness &
the Northern Stirling &
Highlands & Central Scotland
Islands p833
p887
#_Edinburgh p761
Glasgow &
Newcastle &
Southern
The Lake District Scotland Northeast England
& Cumbria p797 ! p617
p580
Yorkshire
Manchester, Liverpool
p491
& Northwest England !
p545 Snowdonia & Birmingham,
Brecon Beacons Nortph7 2W2ales thteh eM Midalarcnhdess & Cambridge &
& Mid-Wales ! p405 East Anglia
p696 p363
Cardiff, Pembrokeshire ! ! #_London p66
& South Wales Canterbury &
p651 Bath &
Southwest Southeast England
England Oxford & p152
p232 the Cotswolds
p187
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Neil Wilson,
Oliver Berry, Fionn Davenport, Marc Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Peter
Dragicevich, Damian Harper, Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan,
Isabella Noble, Andy Symington
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to ENGLAND . . . . . . . 63 Woburn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Great Britain . . . . . . . . . . .6 St Albans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
Great Britain Map . . . . . . . 8 LONDON . . . . . . . . . . 66 The Thames Valley . . . . 225
Great Britain’s Top 26 . . 10 Windsor & Eton . . . . . . . . . 225
Need to Know . . . . . . . . .22 CANTERBURY & Bray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
First Time SOUTHEAST
Great Britain . . . . . . . . . .24 ENGLAND . . . . . . . . . 152 BATH & SOUTHWEST
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . .26 Kent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153 ENGLAND . . . . . . . . 232
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Canterbury . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Hampshire . . . . . . . . . . . 236
Month by Month . . . . . . . 31
Whitstable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Winchester . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Margate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Portsmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
The Great Outdoors . . . . 42
Dover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 New Forest . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
Eat & Drink
East Sussex . . . . . . . . . . .170 Isle of Wight . . . . . . . . . 247
Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Hastings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Dorset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
Travel with Children . . . . 52
South Downs Bournemouth . . . . . . . . . . 252
Regions at a Glance . . . . 56
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Poole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
Lewes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Weymouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
Brighton & Hove . . . . . . . . . 177
Lyme Regis . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
BIKEW West Sussex . . . . . . . . . .183 Wiltshire . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
ORLDTRAVEL / SHUTTERSTOCK © ASFOCaruOXrurnnFTrhedOSaye .mWR l . . . D .O . . . . .L& . . .D . . . T . . .S . . .H . . . . .E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111188886763 SSLLASoavattooencliunobgsrebculehhkuraeye . rta yn . . &d . . . g . . . . eA . . . . . r . . . . .o . . . . .u . . . . .n . . . . .d . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222222767777043327
Oxford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189
Exmoor National Park . . 276
The Cotswolds . . . . . . .202
Devon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .282
Cirencester . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
NATIONAL GALLERY (P80), Exeter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
LONDON Bibury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Torquay & Around . . . . . . 288
Burford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
Dartmouth & Around . . . . 290
The Slaughters . . . . . . . . . 209
Totnes & Around . . . . . . . . 292
STENY02 / SHUTTERSTOCK © SCMCBtrhhoooiirppwaeppd-toiiownnnnagg--y ti .NCn h .-aeo .Mm-r .Wta .opor .ndsl . . deh . .n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222220111109321 PDCBBlalaryoirtmsvthtmeoo l .loul .y . .ot . . .hr . . . N .& . . .a . .A .t . .i .r .o .o . .n .u . .a .n . .l . .d .P . . . .a . . . .r . . . .k . . . . . . . . . .322339900148777
Western
Somerset . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
Gloucestershire . . . . . . .217
Wells & Around . . . . . . . . . 327
Cheltenham . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Glastonbury . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
Buckinghamshire,
Bedfordshire & Cornwell . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
EDINBURGH CASTLE (P763), Hertfordshire . . . . . . . . 222 Bude . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
SCOTLAND
Contents
Boscastle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Worcester . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430 Richmond . . . . . . . . . . . . . 528
Tintagel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Great Malvern . . . . . . . . . . 432 West Yorkshire . . . . . . . 530
Padstow & Rock . . . . . . . . 337 Herefordshire . . . . . . . . 433 Leeds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
Newquay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Hereford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434 Bradford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 535
St Ives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342 Ledbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 Hebden Bridge . . . . . . . . . 536
Penzance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 Shropshire . . . . . . . . . . . 437 Haworth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538
The Lizard . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 Shrewsbury . . . . . . . . . . . . 437 South Yorkshire . . . . . .539
Truro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Ironbridge Gorge . . . . . . . 440 Sheffield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .539
Bodmin Moor . . . . . . . . . . 358 Ludlow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448 East Riding of
Isles of Scilly . . . . . . . . . 359 Nottinghamshire . . . . . 452 Yorkshire . . . . . . . . . . . .541
Nottingham & Around . . . 452 Hull . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 541
CAMBRIDGE & Lincolnshire . . . . . . . . . . 459
EAST ANGLIA . . . . . 363 Lincoln . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459 MANCHESTER,
LIVERPOOL &
Cambridgeshire . . . . . . 366 Stamford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464
NORTHWEST
Cambridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 Boston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465
ENGLAND . . . . . . . . 545
Ely . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 Northamptonshire . . . . 466
Manchester . . . . . . . . . . 548
Essex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 Leicestershire . . . . . . . . 467
Chester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 559
Colchester . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 Leicester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467
Liverpool . . . . . . . . . . . .563
Southend-on-Sea Rutland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472
& Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 Lancashire . . . . . . . . . . . 572
Derbyshire . . . . . . . . . . . 473
Suffolk . . . . . . . . . . . . . .385 Blackpool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572
Derby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473
Long Melford . . . . . . . . . . . 385 Lancaster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 573
Matlock Bath . . . . . . . . . . 476
Lavenham . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Isle of Man . . . . . . . . . . . 576
Chesterfield & Around . . . 478
Bury St Edmunds . . . . . . . 387
Peak District . . . . . . . . .479 THE LAKE
Southwold . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393
Buxton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481 DISTRICT
Norfolk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394
Bakewell & Around . . . . . . 488 & CUMBRIA . . . . . . . 580
Norwich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394
The Lake District . . . . . 584
King’s Lynn & Around . . . 403 YORKSHIRE . . . . . . . 491
Windermere & Around . . .584
North Yorkshire . . . . . . . 495
BIRMINGHAM, THE Ambleside . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590
York . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496
MIDLANDS & THE Grasmere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 593
Harrogate . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507
MARCHES . . . . . . . . 405 Hawkshead . . . . . . . . . . . . 595
Scarborough . . . . . . . . . . . 510
Birmingham . . . . . . . . . . 408 Coniston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 597
North York Moors
Warwickshire . . . . . . . . . 418 National Park . . . . . . . .514 Cockermouth . . . . . . . . . . 603
Coventry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 Pickering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517 Keswick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 604
Warwick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419 Whitby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 518 Ullswater & Around . . . . . 608
Kenilworth . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421 Robin Hood’s Bay . . . . . . . 522 Kendal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 611
Stratford-upon-Avon . . . . 422 Cumbrian Coast . . . . . .612
Yorkshire Dales
Rugby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427 National Park . . . . . . . .522 Carlisle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 614
Staffordshire . . . . . . . . . 428 Skipton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522 Penrith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 616
Worcestershire . . . . . . .430 Grassington . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
ON THE ROAD
NEWCASTLE & Hay-on-Wye SCOTLAND . . . . . . 759
NORTHEAST (Y Gelli Gandryll) . . . . . . . 698
ENGLAND . . . . . . . . . 617 Black Mountains EDINBURGH . . . . . . . 761
(Y Mynyddoedd Duon) . . . 701
Newcastle-upon-Tyne . . . . 621
Brecon (Aberhonddu) . . . 703
Durham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 630 GLASGOW &
Powys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 707 SOUTHERN
Barnard Castle . . . . . . . . . 632
Llanwrtyd Wells SCOTLAND . . . . . . . . 797
Hadrian’s Wall . . . . . . . . . . 633 (Llanwrtyd) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 707
Northumberland Elan Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 710 Glasgow . . . . . . . . . . . . .800
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 640 Lanark &
Welshpool (Y Trallwng) . . . 712
Northumberland Coast . . 642 New Lanark . . . . . . . . . . 820
Ceredigion . . . . . . . . . . . . 715
Borders Region . . . . . . . . 821
WALES . . . . . . . . . . 649 Aberystwyth . . . . . . . . . . . . 715 Peebles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .821
Cardigan (Aberteifi) . . . . . . 719
Melrose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 822
CARDIFF,
Jedburgh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 823
PEMBROKESHIRE SNOWDONIA
Kelso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 824
& SOUTH & NORTH
WALES . . . . . . . . . . . . 651 WALES . . . . . . . . . . . . 722 Ayrshire . . . . . . . . . . . . . .826
Ayr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 826
Cardiff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .653 North Wales
Monmouthshire . . . . . . .665 Borderlands . . . . . . . . . . . 724 Alloway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 826
Chepstow (Cas-gwent) . . 665 Ruthin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 724 Dumfries & Galloway . . .828
Lower Wye Valley . . . . . . . 665 Llangollen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 725 Dumfries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 828
Abergavenny . . . . . . . . . . . 666 Snowdonia Kirkcudbright . . . . . . . . . . 829
National Park . . . . . . . . .728 Galloway Forest Park . . . . 830
South Wales Valleys . . . 668
Cader Idris The Machars . . . . . . . . . . . . 831
Caerphilly (Caerffili) . . . . 669 (Cadair Idris) . . . . . . . . . . . 728
Stranraer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 832
Swansea (Abertawe) . . . . 670 Harlech . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 734
The Mumbles Blaenau Ffestiniog . . . . . . . 735 STIRLING &
(Y Mwmbwls) . . . . . . . . . . . 674
Betws-y-Coed . . . . . . . . . . . 735 CENTRAL
Gower Peninsula
(Y Gŵyr) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 675 Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa) . . . 739 SCOTLAND . . . . . . . . 833
Carmarthenshire . . . . . .678 Llŷn Peninsula . . . . . . . .743 Stirling Region . . . . . . . 836
Pembrokeshire . . . . . . . .679 Porthmadog . . . . . . . . . . . . 743 Stirling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 836
Tenby (Dinbych The North Coast . . . . . . . 746 Fife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 842
Y Pysgod) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 681 Caernarfon . . . . . . . . . . . . . 746 St Andrews . . . . . . . . . . . . 842
Pembroke (Penfro) . . . . . 684 Bangor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 748 East Neuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . 847
St Davids (Tyddewi) . . . . . 686 Conwy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 Falkland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 850
Newport (Trefdraeth) . . . 694 Llandudno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 752 Dunfermline . . . . . . . . . . . . 851
Isle of Anglesey . . . . . . .755 Dundee & Angus . . . . . . . 851
BRECON Beaumaris (Biwmares) . . 756 Dundee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 852
BEACONS
Holyhead (Caergybi) . . . . . 757 Abroath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 855
& MID-WALES . . . . . . 696
Aberdeenshire . . . . . . . . . 855
Brecon Beacons
Aberdeen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 856
National Park . . . . . . . . 698
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Moray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .861 Dornoch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 915 Great Britain
Elgin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 861 Caithness . . . . . . . . . . . . 916 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 962
Dufftown & Aberlour . . . . 862 Lybster & Around . . . . . . . 916 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 964
Loch Lomond & Wick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 916 The British Table . . . . . 982
The Trossachs . . . . . . . . 863 John O’Groats . . . . . . . . . . 917 Architecture
Loch Lomond . . . . . . . . . . 863 Thurso & Scrabster . . . . . 917 in Britain . . . . . . . . . . . . 988
Callender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 865 The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 993
North & West Coast . . . 918
Killin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 867 Durness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 919 TLahned Bsrciatipseh . . . . . . . . . . 1003
Argyllshire . . . . . . . . . . . 868 Ullapool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 922 Sporting Britain . . . . . 1009
Oban . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 868
Skye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .927
Mull . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 870 Portree (Port Righ) . . . . . 931
Iona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 874
Outer Hebrides . . . . . . . 934
Kintyre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 877 Lewis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .935
Islay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 879 Harris (Na Hearadh) . . . . 937
Jura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 882 Barra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 940
Arran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 883 Orkney . . . . . . . . . . . . . .941 SURVIVAL
Brodick & Around . . . . . . . 884 Skara Brae . . . . . . . . . . . . . 949 GUIDE
Lochranza . . . . . . . . . . . . . 885 Stromness . . . . . . . . . . . . . 949
South Coast . . . . . . . . . . . 885 Directory A–Z . . . . . . .1014
Shetland . . . . . . . . . . . . 954
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . 1023
Lerwick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 954
INVERNESS & Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1035
The North Isles . . . . . . . . . 959
THE NORTHERN Map Legend . . . . . . . . . 1054
HIGHLANDS &
ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . 887
Inverness & the
Great Glen . . . . . . . . . . . 890
Inverness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 890
Loch Ness . . . . . . . . . . . . . 896
The Cairngorms . . . . . . 898
SPECIAL FEATURES
Aviemore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 899
Tower of London 3D Illustration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88
Kingussie &
Newtonmore . . . . . . . . . . . 902 Victoria & Albert Museum 3D Illustration . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Royal Deeside . . . . . . . . . . 903 British Museum 3D Illustration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104
Highland Perthshire . . . 904
River Thames 3D Illustration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
Pitlochry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 905
Hampton Court Palace 3D Illustration . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
Blair Castle . . . . . . . . . . . . 907
Hadrian’s Wall 3D Illustration` . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .636
Loch Tay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 907
Royal Mile 3D Illustration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .764
West Highlands . . . . . . . 908
Glen Coe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 908 Rosslyn Chapel 3D Illustration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .780
Fort William . . . . . . . . . . . . 910 Stirling Castle 3D illustration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .838
East Coast . . . . . . . . . . . 915
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
6
Welcome to
Great Britain
Buckingham Palace, Stonehenge,
Manchester United, The Beatles – Britain
does icons like nowhere else, and travel
here is a fascinating mix of famous
names and hidden gems.
Variety Packed English Spoken Here
From the graceful architecture of Canter- While Britain has a complex culture and
bury Cathedral to the soaring ramparts esoteric traditions, it feels familiar to many
of Edinburgh Castle, via the mountains of visitors – on the surface, at least – thanks
Wales and the picture-postcard landscape to a vast catalogue of British film and TV
of the Cotswolds, Britain’s astounding va- exports. And for most visitors, Britain’s
riety is a major reason to visit. The cities national language – English – is equally
tempt with top-class shops and restaurants, familiar, and one more reason why travel
and some of the world’s finest museums, here is a breeze. Of course Wales and
while cutting-edge clubs and world-famous Scotland have their own languages, but
theatres provide endless nights to remem- everyone speaks English too – and all
ber. Next day, you’re deep in the country- visitors (even Brits) get a little confused
side, high in the hills or enjoying a classic by local accents in places such as Devon,
seaside resort. In Britain, there really is Snowdonia and Aberdeen.
something for everyone, whether you’re
eight or 80, going solo, or travelling with Easy Does It
your friends, your kids or your grandma.
A final thing to remember while you’re
planning a trip to Britain: getting from
Time Travel
place to place is pretty straightforward.
A journey through Britain is a journey Although the locals may grumble (in
through history. But not dull and dusty fact, it’s a national pastime), public trans-
history – this is history you can immerse port is pretty good and a train ride
yourself in. You can lay hands on the through the British landscape can be a
megaliths of a 5000-year-old stone circle, memorable experience in itself. Whichever
or patrol the battlements of a medieval way you get around in this compact coun-
fortress – just as they were patrolled by try, you’re never far from the next town,
chain-mail-clad soldiers many centuries the next pub, the next national park or the
ago. Fast-forward to the future and you’re next impressive castle on your hit-list of
admiring 21st-century architecture in highlights. The choice is endless.
Glasgow or exploring the space-age domes
of Cornwall’s Eden Project.
7
JOE DANIEL PRICE / GETTY IM
AGES ©
Why I Love Great Britain
By Neil Wilson, Writer
In a word: variety. Few countries pack so much into a small space. Landscapes that range
from the sand dunes of South Wales to the snowfields of the Cairngorms, from the lush,
quilted farmland of Kent to the naked limestone scarps of the Yorkshire Dales. Three
nationalities, two dozen dialects, more than 60 proudly individual cities, 1000 breweries,
5000 castles – all in a country you could drive across in a day. Plus weather that can offer
four seasons in a single afternoon (but remember the old Scandinavian proverb – there’s no
such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothes).
For more about our writers, see p1056
Above: Roman Baths (p317), Bath, England
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