Table Of ContentP
D
F
Florence
& Tuscany
PDF ebook
Edition 10th Edition
Release Date Jan 2018
Pages 352
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4 easy-to-use How to use this book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 5
Sights Eating
r 6
Beaches Drinking
2 3
PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Entertainment
C 7
Courses Shopping
Your planning tool kit
T
Photos & suggestions to help Tours 8 Information
you create the perfect trip. & Transport
z Festivals
& Events
All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Eating reviews are ordered by price range (budget,
midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by writer
preference.
ON THE ROAD
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Florence
& Tuscany
Northwestern
Tuscany
(p221)
Florence
^#(p60)
Eastern
Tuscany
(p264)
Central
Coast &
Siena & Central
Elba
Tuscany
(p195)
(p126)
Southern
Tuscany
Elba (p177)
Nicola Williams, Virginia Maxwell
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to FLORENCE . . . . . . . . . 60 CENTRAL COAST
Florence & Tuscany . . . . . 4 & ELBA . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Florence & SIENA & CENTRAL Livorno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Tuscany’s Top 18 . . . . . . . .8
TUSCANY . . . . . . . . . 126 The Etruscan Coast . . . 203
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . . 18
Siena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Castiglioncello . . . . . . . . . 203
FFilrosrte nTcime e& Tuscany . . . . 20 Chianti . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145 Bolgheri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Greve in Chianti . . . . . . . . 145 San Vincenzo . . . . . . . . . . 205
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Badia a Passignano . . . . . 147 Suvereto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 San Casciano in Golfo di Baratti . . . . . . . . . 209
Month by Month . . . . . . . 26 Val de Pesa . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 The Tuscan
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Castellina in Chianti . . . . 149 Archipelago . . . . . . . . . . 209
Accommodation . . . . . . . 36 Radda in Chianti . . . . . . . . 152 Elba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
Gaiole in Chianti . . . . . . . . 153 Giglio, Gorgona
Getting Around . . . . . . . . 38 & Pianosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
San Gimignano . . . . . . . 155
Eat & Drink Capraia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Monteriggioni . . . . . . . . . . 162
Volterra . . . . . . . . . . . . .163
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Val d’Orcia . . . . . . . . . . .166
Travel with Children . . . . 55
Montalcino . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Regions at a Glance . . . .57 Pienza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 LIUDM
Montepulciano . . . . . . . 173 ILA ERM
WJAREK/SHUTTERSTOCK © TMSThUOaesSU sACaTl tAMHaNa EMrRYitaNt .rime . m .a .m . . .a . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111878007 OLENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Vetulonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
Città del Tufo . . . . . . . .184
Pitigliano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
WINE IN CHIANTI P145 Sovana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
Sorano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
The Bassa
Maremma . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
KAM Grosseto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
IRA/SHUTTERSTOCK © PdOMearoblrlncaeto teMe R Alaleorrgge . iem .on .nmt .aa .alre . . i . .o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111999332
SAN GIMIGNANO P155
Contents
UNDERSTAND
NORTHWESTERN The Lunigiana . . . . . . . . 263 Florence & Tuscany
TUSCANY . . . . . . . . . 221 Pontremoli . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286
Pisa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288
Lucca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 EASTERN The Tuscan
Pistoia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243 TUSCANY . . . . . . . . . 264 Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . 299
San Miniato . . . . . . . . . . 250 Arezzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 The Tuscan Table . . . . .303
The Apuane Alps & Sansepolcro . . . . . . . . . 271 Tuscany on
Garfagnana . . . . . . . . . .252 Valle del Casentino . . .276 Page & Screen . . . . . . . 310
Castelnuovo di Poppi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Art & Architecture . . . . . 313
Garfagnana . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
Parco Nazionale delle
Barga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Foreste Casentinesi,
Bagni di Lucca . . . . . . . . . 255 Monte Falterona e SURVIVAL
Carrara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Campigna . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 GUIDE
The Versilian Coast . . . 260 Val di Chiana . . . . . . . . . 281
Pietrasanta . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Castiglion Fiorentino . . . . 281
Viareggio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 Cortona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .326
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 337
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345
SPECIAL
FEATURES
Lazy Days
in Florence . . . . . . . . . . .110
Wine Tour of Chianti . . .150
Medieval
Masterpieces . . . . . . . .160
Exploring
the Val d’Orcia . . . . . . . 168
The Wine
and Oil Road . . . . . . . . .206
Lazy Days in Elba . . . . . 216
Why Pisa Leans . . . . . .228
The Via Francigena . . . .258
Magnificent
Monasteries . . . . . . . . . 272
Go Slow in the
Valle del Casentino . . .278
Tuscan Artists . . . . . . . . 318
TRATTORIA IN FLORENCE Tuscan Architecture . . . 322
P60
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
4
Welcome to
Florence & Tuscany
With its lyrical landscapes, world-class
art and a superb cucina contadina
(farmer’s kitchen), the Tuscan experience
is perfectly in symbiosis with the land.
Perfect Landscapes Living History
Tuscany has a timeless familiarity, with its Ever since the Etruscans dropped by to
iconic Florentine cathedral dome, gently roll- party and stayed, Tuscany has seduced. The
ing hills dipped in morning mist and sculp- Romans stocked their grain silos here, Chris-
tural cypress alleys. But then, this regione tians walked stages of a medieval pilgrimage
in central Italy is postcard material. Golden route, and Napoleon plundered art (and suf-
wheat fields, silver olive groves and pea- fered terribly in exile in a beautiful neoclas-
green vineyards marching in terraced rows sical villa on the paradisiacal island of Elba).
on hillsides form a graceful prelude to soul- Florence’s historic churches and monuments
soaring medieval hilltop villages, mountain were a key stop for British aristocrats on the
ranges and fecund forests in the north, and Grand Tour in the 19th century – and remain
a garland of islands along the coastal south. so. And at sundown when the River Arno
Get out, explore, hike and ding your bicycle turns pink, whether you like things old-
bell, as this rousing landscape demands. fashioned and simple or boutique chic, know
that this handsome city will oblige.
Sensational Slow Food
An Artistic Powerhouse
No land is more caught up with the fruits
of its fertile earth than Tuscany, a gourmet Then there’s the art. And, oh, what art! The
destination whose residents spend an in- Etruscans indulged their fondness for a
ordinate amount of time thinking about, classy send-off with exquisite funerary ob-
discussing and consuming food and wine. jects, and the Romans left their usual legacy
Local, seasonal and sustainable is the Holy of monumental sculptures. But it was during
Trinity and Tuscans share enormous pride the medieval and Renaissance periods that
in the quality of their produce. Tuscan Tuscany really struck gold, with painters,
travel is grassroots: to wineries to taste sculptors and architects creating world-class
blockbuster wines like Brunello di Montal- masterpieces. Squirrelled away and safe-
cino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano; to guarded today in churches, museums and
a family-run pastificio tradizionale where galleries all over the region, art in Tuscany
artisan pasta is cut by hand; and road trips is truly unmatched. Edgy street art in Flor-
in quest of the best bistecca alla fiorentina ence and countryside sculpture parks bring
(chargrilled T-bone steak). Buon appetito! the art scene right up to the 21st century.
5
BRIAN KINNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Why I Love Florence & Tuscany
By Nicola Williams, Writer
Tuscany won me over at a farm in the Garfagnana. We were tucking into dinner when the
farmer’s wife rushed in mid-secondi and urged us to join her in the stable to watch a calf
being born. Later, when she joyfully declared ‘We’ll call her Kaya after your daughter!’ I was
speechless. So my seven-year-old now has a cow in Tuscany and I the honour of being privy
to yet another intimacy of this wildly diverse, soulful, earth-driven region. This (and its truf-
fles, Florence, aperitivi tradition, Renaissance art and Chianti wine) is why I love Tuscany.
For more about our writers, see p352
Above: Florence (p60)
m
oPVENETO e050k#025miles ADRIATICSEA FlorencesVisit a Renaissancetime capsule (p60) Parco Nazionaledelle ForesteCasentinesi,#÷Monte Falterona eMonteCampignaFalteronaChianti(1654m)RTipple Italy'sStiabest-known wine (p145)#\ #÷Poppi#\RiservaNaturaleVallombrosaLE MARCHE Sansepolcro#\ onrATe#^Arezzovole inereanti
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Montepulcian#\noVal#\Pienza#\d'Orcia#\BagnoVignoni #\Bagni SanFilippo Sorano#\Sovana#\Pitigliano#\ Riserva NaturaleLago di Burano
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N
°3
4
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Florence & Tuscany’s
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