Lonely Planet Europe on a shoestring

900 Pages·2016·96.31 MB·English

by  Lonely Planet

P
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PDF ebook
Edition 9th Edition
Release Date Oct 2016
Pages 896
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3 easy-to-use How to Use This Book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
r 5
Beaches Eating
PLAN YOUR TRIP
2 6
Activities Drinking
Your planning tool kit
C 3
Courses Entertainment
Photos & suggestions to help
you create the perfect trip. T Tours 7 Shopping
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
ON THE ROAD
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
Your complete guide
ranges, by author preference.
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
h Opening hours j Tram
SURVIVAL GUIDE p Parking d Train
n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Your at-a-glance reference
a Air-conditioning d double rooms
Vital practical information i Internet access d m dorm beds
for a smooth trip.
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Europe on a
Shoestring
Scandinavia
p137 Russia &
the Baltic Coast
p777
Great Britain &
Ireland
p51
Germany &
Benelux Central &
p209 Eastern Europe
pp687
France, Switzerland
& Austria
p295
Balkans
p603
Spain &
Portugal
p389 Italy, Greece & Turkey
p489
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Mark Baker, Tom Masters, Korina Miller,
Simon Richmond, Andy Symington, Nicola Williams
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Europe . . . . . .6 GREAT BRITAIN The Southwest . . . . . . . . . 118
& IRELAND . . . . . . . . . 51 The West Coast . . . . . . . . . 124
Europe Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
England . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Northern Ireland . . . . . . . . 127
Europe’s
Top 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 London . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Ireland Survival Guide . . . 134
Windsor & Eton . . . . . . . . . . 73
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20
Salisbury SCANDINAVIA . . . . . .137
First-Time Europe . . . . . . 22 & Stonehenge . . . . . . . . . . . 74
Denmark . . . . . . . . . . . .150
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Copenhagen . . . . . . . . . . . 150
Oxford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Month by Month . . . . . . . . 27 Helsingør . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Stratford-upon-Avon . . . . . 80
Roskilde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Cambridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Odense . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Big Adventures, York . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Aarhus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
Small Budgets . . . . . . . . 38 Manchester . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Skagen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Getting Around Lake District Denmark
Europe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 160
Wales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87
Regions at a Glance . . . . . 47 Sweden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Cardiff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Stockholm . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Snowdonia
Uppsala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 88
MATT MUNRO / LONELY PLANET © SEGI&Insdcl lvaLeioenso torbgclnfoauh eSwnr sNgkd . sh .ey . . es . . .s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118009894993 MGGNSFiwöooanttrellemlradalbanenöonndd . rd . gS . . . . . . . . u . . . . .r .v . . . . .i . . . .v . . . . .a . . . . .l . . . . .G . . . . .u . . . . .i . . . . .d . . . . .e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111111667767029871
Great Britain Helsinki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 105 Turku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Ireland . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Tampere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
LA SAGRADA FAMÍLIA, Dublin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Lakeland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
BARCELONA P417 The Southeast . . . . . . . . . 116 Lapland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
NIK PHOT / 500PX © LI KIM GOH / GETTY IM
AGES ©
ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK, SZÉCHENYI BATHS,
PRAGUE P701 BUDAPEST P739
Contents
Finland Survival Guide . . . 184
NOsolrow . .a .y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118855 VANDERW
The Western Fjords . . . . . 188 OLF IM
NNSIRcueooeyrrrlvktwahijnvaaeadyvrl í n k .G . .Nu . .oi . .dr . .ew . .a . . . . .y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111199996377 AGES / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
The Golden Circle . . . . . . . 201
The South . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
The North . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 GUINNESS STOREHOUSE,
DUBLIN P108
Iceland
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 207
Mons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Champagne . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
Belgium Burgundy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
GERMANY Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 274 Lyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
& BENELUX . . . . . . . 209 Luxembourg . . . . . . . . .275 Chamonix . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335
Germany . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Luxembourg City . . . . . . . 275 Bordeaux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337
Berlin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Luxembourg Provence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
Dresden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 277
French Riviera . . . . . . . . . . 341
Leipzig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Netherlands . . . . . . . . . . 278
France Survival Guide . . . 348
Munich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Amsterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
Switzerland . . . . . . . . . . 350
Berchtesgaden . . . . . . . . . 235 Leiden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
Geneva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
Romantic Road . . . . . . . . . 236 Den Haag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285
Lausanne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353
Nuremberg . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Delft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287
Valais . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355
Heidelberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Rotterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288
Mittelland
Black Forest . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Maastricht . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 & Bernese Oberland . . . . 356
The Romantic Rhine . . . . 243 Netherlands Lucerne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 293
Trier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Basel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360
Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Zürich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361
FRANCE,
Düsseldorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 Ticino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363
SWITZERLAND
Hamburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 Switzerland
& AUSTRIA . . . . . . . . 295
Bremen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 364
Germany France . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Austria . . . . . . . . . . . . . .367
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 256 Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Vienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367
Belgium . . . . . . . . . . . . .257 Versailles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Graz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374
Brussels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Lille . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Klagenfurt . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376
Leuven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 The Somme . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Salzburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377
Antwerp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Normandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 Salzkammergut . . . . . . . . 381
Ghent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Mont St-Michel . . . . . . . . . 323 Tyrol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382
Bruges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Brittany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Austria
Ypres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 The Loire Valley . . . . . . . . 325 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 386
ON THE ROAD
SPAIN Andalucía . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439 Rhodes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 562
& PORTUGAL . . . . . . 389 Spain Survival Guide . . . . 458 Greece Survival Guide . . . 567
Spain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 Portugal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 Turkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 571
Madrid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 Lisbon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .460 Antalya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 571
Around Madrid . . . . . . . . . 402 Around Lisbon . . . . . . . . . 466 Selçuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576
San Sebastián . . . . . . . . . . 404 The Algarve . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 İstanbul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 578
Bilbao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406 Évora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475 Ankara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 588
Burgos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Óbidos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476 Konya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 592
Salamanca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 Nazaré . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 477 Cappadocia . . . . . . . . . . . . 594
León . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 Coimbra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478 Turkey Survival Guide . . . 598
Santiago Porto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
de Compostela . . . . . . . . . 414 Braga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485 BALKANS . . . . . . . . 603
Barcelona . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416 Parque Nacional Croatia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .614
Girona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426 da Peneda-Gerês . . . . . . . 486
Zagreb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 614
The Balearic Islands . . . . 428 Portugal
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 487 Rovinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 617
Valencia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433
Split . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 619
Hvar Island . . . . . . . . . . . . 623
ITALY, GREECE
PLUSONE / SHUTTERSTOCK © &IVFRtleoao nTmlryieUce .neR . . . c . . .eK . . . . E . . . . . . . .Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .444558909198685 CSMDB&aruo ooHrbssaaenrtjtoaeriiavcarvn . eoS . .ig ku . .or . . . vv . . .ii . . .nv . . .aa . . .l . . . .G . . . . .u . . . .i . . .d . . . .e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .666663332200495
Italy Survival Guide . . . . .534
Bosnia & Hercegovina
Greece . . . . . . . . . . . . . .538 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 637
Corfu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538 Montenegro . . . . . . . . . . 638
Athens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 544 Budva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 638
ROYAL ALBERT HALL, Delphi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 556 Kotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 640
LONDON P72 Santorini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558 Perast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 642
M M
ATT MUNRO / LONELY PLANET © ATTEO COLOMBO / GETTY IMAGES ©
THE MATTERHORN, CATHÉDRALE NOTRE DAME
SWITZERLAND P355 DE PARIS P305
Contents
Lovćen National Park . . . 643 Czech Republic Pärnu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 817
Cetinje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 644 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 712 Estonia
Montenegro Poland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 714 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 820
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 645 Warsaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 714 Latvia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .821
Albania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 647 Kraków . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 719 Rīga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 821
Tirana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 647 Poland Survival Guide . . . 726 Jurmala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 827
Berat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 651 Slovenia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 727 Sigulda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 828
The Albanian Riviera . . . . 652 Ljubljana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 727 Cēsis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 830
Albania Lake Bled & the Ventspils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 832
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 653 Julian Alps . . . . . . . . . . . . . 732 Latvia
Macedonia . . . . . . . . . . . 654 The Karst Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 833
Skopje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 654 Region & Coast . . . . . . . . . 735 Lithuania . . . . . . . . . . . . 834
Ohrid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .656 Slovenia Vilnius . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .834
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 736
Bitola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 658 Trakai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 840
Hungary . . . . . . . . . . . . .738
Pelister National Park . . . 659 Druskininkai . . . . . . . . . . . 840
Budapest . . . . . . . . . . . . . 738
Macedonia Kaunas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 841
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 660 NHuorntghaerays t . e .r .n . . . . . . . . . . . 745 Klaipėda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 845
Serbia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 662 Hungary Curonian Spit
Belgrade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .662 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 746 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 846
Novi Sad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 666 Romania . . . . . . . . . . . . . 749 Lithuania
Subotica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 667 Bucharest . . . . . . . . . . . . . 749 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 847
Niš . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 668 Transylvania . . . . . . . . . . . 755
Serbia Survival Guide . . . 669 Romania SURVIVAL
Bulgaria . . . . . . . . . . . . .670 Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 761 GUIDE
Sofia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 670 Ukraine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 764
Plovdiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 674 Kyiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 764 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .850
Koprivshtitsa . . . . . . . . . . . 677 Lviv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 769
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 859
Melnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 677 Ukraine
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 773 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 864
Veliko Târnovo . . . . . . . . . . 678
Varna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 680 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 873
Burgas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 682 RUSSIA & THE Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 894
BALTIC COAST . . . . 777
Sozopol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 683
Bulgaria Russia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 784
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . . 684 Moscow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 784 SPECIAL
St Petersburg . . . . . . . . . . 793 FEATURES
CENTRAL Peterhof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 801
& EASTERN Tsarskoe Selo . . . . . . . . . . 801 First-Time Europe . . . . . . 22
EUROPE . . . . . . . . . . 687 Kaliningrad Region . . . . . . 802 Big Adventures,
Small Budgets . . . . . . . .38
Czech Republic . . . . . . . 700 Russia Survival Guide . . . 803
Prague . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 700 Estonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 806 Getting Around
Europe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Bohemia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 708 Tallinn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 806
Moravia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 710 Tartu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 814
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
6
Welcome to
Europe
Even on a shoestring budget, a journey
through the cultural storehouse that
is Europe can be fun, exciting and
wonderfully life enhancing.
Urban Adventures Cultural Kaleidoscope
Some of Europe’s headline locations can With thousands of years of civilisation
suck up your cash like a herd of thirsty under its belt, Europe’s cultural diversity is
elephants. But for every London or Paris its trump card. Religions, philosophies and
there’s a more affordable Lviv or Porto. artistic movements that changed the world
Scattered among the 40 countries covered developed in Athens, Rome, Moscow, Leip-
in this guide, ranging from Iceland to zig, Vienna – we could go on and on. Europe
Turkey, there are hundreds of fascinating has in the region of 450 Unesco World Her-
cities, towns and villages to discover. Take itage Sites, the most of any continent, with
a taxi tour of the mural art of Belfast; ride 51 in Italy alone! Be it climbing up Skellig
the ferry across the Bosphorus in İstanbul, Michael off Ireland’s west coast, soaking
enjoy an ice cream on Venice’s Piazza San up the architectural majesty of Granada’s
Marco – many of Europe’s most memorable Alhambra, or witnessing whirling dervishes
experiences needn’t break the bank, and in action, Europe’s range of cultural attrac-
a surprising amount can be done for free. tions is unsurpassed.
Be flexible and you’ll soon find your funds
stretching further than you ever imagined. Join the Party
Europe has some of the best nightlife in the
Scenic Wonders world. Globally famous DJs keep the party
Europe’s lovely landscapes are the gift going in London, Berlin and Paris, all of
that keeps on giving. Stride across English which also offer top-class entertainment,
meadows or the sand dunes of the Baltic especially theatre and live music. Other key
States. Sail down Norwegian fjords or locations for high-energy nightlife include
Germany’s Rhine. Climb, ski or just marvel Moscow, Belgrade, Budapest and Madrid,
at the Swiss and French Alps. Relax on while those hankering for something more
Croatian beaches or Greek islands. Explore cosy can add Dublin’s pubs or Vienna’s ca-
the honeycombed hills of Cappadocia or fes to their itinerary. Continue to party on
cycle past Dutch tulip fields in full bloom. the continent’s streets at a multiplicity of
Picture-postcard views are around every festivals and celebrations, from city parades
corner, whichever route you take. attended by hundreds of thousands to inti-
mate concerts in an ancient amphitheatre.
7
M
URATART / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Why I Love Europe
By Simon Richmond, Writer
You’re likely to feel a little overwhelmed, but once you dive into Europe, these fears will be
replaced by wonder and fascination – plus something, perhaps, unexpected: a sense of con-
nection. Very few places in the world, if any, remain untouched by European history, culture
and influence. As continents go, Europe’s broad variety and excellent transport infrastruc-
ture – be it air or roads, or the old standby of the Grand Tour, rail – is hard to beat and is sure
to push you on to new experiences and unexpected discoveries.
For more about our writers, see page 896
Above: Manarola (p513), Cinque Terre, Italy
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Amsterdam, Netherlands
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(p278)
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Eiffel Tower (p304) FRANCE
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SagBrae daam Faazmedíl ibay ( Lpa416) P Y R E N E E S Golfe MMOoN#_nAaCcoO Mar#_ino H
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la Vella #^ ANDORRA (CForarsniccea) Rome#_
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SPAIN Sardinia Sea
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(Spain)
Mediterranean Sea
Modeira
(Portugal) Strait of ‚
Gibraltar
Lisbon, Portugal ALGERIA TUNISIA
Sample custard tarts, #_Rabat
30°CNan(aSrpya Iisnllia)sntdesn to fado (p460M)aAr rT#\a Lk eAs MSh OM RO OU CN CT OA I N S windViDnengr iicfctae na,la Ioltnsa g(lpy498)