Lobster: A Global History

146 Pages·2016·1 MB·English

by  Townsend E.

Lobster
A Global History
Elisabeth Townsend
the edible series


Edible
Series Editor: Andrew F. Smith
is a revolutionary new series of books dedicated to food and
drink that explores the rich history of cuisine. Each book reveals the
global history and culture of one type of food or beverage.
Already published
Cake Nicola Humble Milk Hannah Velten
Caviar Nichola Fletcher Pancake Ken Albala
Cheese Andrew Dalby Pie Janet Clarkson
Chocolate Sarah Moss and Pizza Carol Helstosky
Alexander Badenoch
Potato Andrew F. Smith
Curry Colleen Taylor Sen
Sandwich Bee Wilson
Dates Nawal Nasrallah Soup Janet Clarkson
Hamburger Andrew F. Smith Spices Fred Czarra
Hot Dog Bruce Kraig Tea Helen Saberi
Ice Cream Laura B. Weiss Whiskey Kevin R. Kosar
Lobster
A Global History
Elisabeth Townsend
 
To Jeff with love and gratitude
Published by Reaktion Books Ltd
Great Sutton Street
London , 
www.reaktionbooks.co.uk
First published 
Copyright © Elisabeth Townsend
All rights reserved
No part of this publication may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or
by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording
or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers.
Printed and bound in China by C&C Offset Printing Co. Ltd
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
Townsend, Elisabeth.
Lobster: a global history.–(Edible)
. Lobsters. . Lobster fisheries –History.
. Cooking (Lobsters)
. Cooking (Lobsters) –History.
. Title . Series
.(cid:0)-
:    
Contents
Introduction: What is a Lobster? 7
1 From Fertilizer to the Dinner Table 24
2 From Main Course to Mass Market 36
3 Lobster Takes Centre Stage 52
4 Lobster Controversies 68
5 Killing and Cooking (Humanely) 82
6 The Future of Lobsters 99
Recipes 115
Select Bibliography 129
Websites and Associations 131
Acknowledgements 133
Photo Acknowledgements 135
Index 137

Introduction:
What is a Lobster?
The world’s love affair with lobster began out of necessity.
It wasn’t a mutual affection though: it was as lopsided as un -
requited love. Humans needed to eat and the crustacean was
often within easy reach by hand, spear, long hook, baskets
and later nets and traps. But the shellfish eventually became
more than just grub – its status shifted from vital protein to
pauper’s food to cultural icon.
This relationship has always been complex. When lob-
sters were abundant many coastal dwellers disdained them.
But their popularity with wealthy urban diners drove innova-
tions that nearly annihilated the stocks. It was through these
innovations and mass marketing that lobster ended up on
dinner plates in Tokyo, Japan and Dubuque, Iowa. Clearly,
this affaire d’amour isn’t a tawdry fling. It’s a long-term rela-
tionship.
The worldwide lobster industry is still thriving because
early regulations prevented overfishing. Yet worry about
losing the species continues amid record catches and several
perplexing scares, and today lobsters and their consumers are
under another threat. As concern about the humane treatment
of lobsters heats up, demand may decline as purveyors be-
come reluctant to sell them. Compassion is building for all

No digital rights
Salvador Dalí, Lobster Telephone, . The lobster is an icon that has
appeared in many works of art, including this example by the famous
Spanish surrealist.
animals and that includes the lobster. Some countries are con -
sidering broadening animal welfare laws to include these lively
shellfish. Once again new technology is a significant fac tor –
with new killing machines that use electrocution and water
pressure. Divorced from the primal experience of kill ing our
dinner, we are in danger of losing the connection between the
food we ingest and its origin. The idyllic experi ence of eating
a freshly boiled lobster on a coastal dock may become extinct.
If that happens, will anyone recognize the feisty iconic shell -
fish on Salvador Dalí’s Lobster Telephoneor on Maine’s licence
plate? Will we even remember what lobsters symbolize –
summertime leisure on the rockbound coast, eating exquisite
seafood with friends provided by in de pen d ent fisherwomen
and men braving the elements to bring in the catch? What
happens to the experience of ‘eating a lobster’?
