Table Of Content— <=
EDITION
= = cS = la
2 ce >
=
foam bell a8) O - i al O _ dud
i
t
SNYVv14aa UD] (0¢ s eesmnmeercsessssssms=e () SO[IU (2)f s emmemmeenscerssecrers=( )
—
—
—
o
n
e
v n
issnyg ec19e ceminsens ot eet ce oes a
r
o
an e
meen
N
C
[ oee ne
V
I 2
N
V my
A
H
L
N
)
Lithuania
THE BRADT TRAVEL GUIDE
PUBLISHER'S FOREWORD
The first Bradt travel guide was written in 1974 by George and Hilary
Bradt on a river barge floating down a tributary of the Amazon. In the
1980s and ’90s the focus shifted away from hiking to broader-based
guides covering new destinations — usually the first to be published
about these places. In the 2Ist century Bradt continues to publish such
ground-breaking guides, as well as others to established holiday
destinations, incorporating in-depth information on culture and natural
history with the nuts and bolts of where to stay and what to see.
Bradt authors support responsible travel, and provide advice not
only on minimum impact but also on how to give something back
through local charities. In this way a true synergy is achieved between
the traveller and local communities.
*
Watching the popularity of the Baltic states grow with the three Bradt
guides that introduced the newly independent countries to the holiday
market has been wonderfully rewarding. Each country has its own
personality which is brought out by the interests and enthusiasms of
the three different authors. Gordon McLachlan’s particular interest is
architecture, and his educated observations on the buildings you'll
come across — from formal palaces to rustic wooden churches — will
certainly enrich your visit.
W ac e ceS ooae
19 High Street, Chalfont St Peter, Bucks SL9 9QE, England
Tel: 01753 893444 Fax: 01753 892333
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.bradt-travelguides.com
Lithuania
THE BRADT TRAVEL GUIDE
Fourth Edition
Gordon McLachlan
Head: Travel Guides Ltd, UK
The Globe Pequot Press Inc, USA
Fourth edition published in April 2005, reprinted May 2007
First published 1995
Bradt Travel Guides Ltd,
19 High Street, Chalfont St Peter, Bucks SL9 9QE, England
Published in the USA by The Globe Pequot Press Inc,
246 Goose Lane, PO Box 480, Guilford, Connecticut 06437-0480
Text copyright ©2005 Gordon W McLachlan
Maps copyright ©2005 Bradt Travel Guides Ltd
Photographs ©2005 individual photographers
The author and publishers have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
information in this book at the time of going to press. However, the publishers cannot
accept any responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience resulting
from the use of information contained in this guide.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior consent of the publishers.
Requests for permission should be addressed to Bradt Travel Guides Ltd,
19 High Street, Chalfont St Peter, Bucks SL9 9QE in the UK; or to The Globe Pequot
Press Inc, 246 Goose Lane, PO Box 480, Guilford, Connecticut 06437-0480
in North and South America.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
ISBN-10: 1 84162 115 3
ISBN-13: 978 1 84162 115 9
Photographs
Front cover: Hill of Crosses, near Siauliai (Mark Wadlow)
Text: Selena Dickson (SD), Gordon McLachlan (GMcL), Rachel Russell (RR),
Mark Wadlow (MW)
Illustrations Carole Vincer
Maps Alan Whitaker, Matt Honour
Typeset from the author’s disc by Wakewing, High Wycombe
Printed and bound in India at Ajanta Offset & Packagings Ltd, New Delhi
Author/Acknowledgements
AUTHOR
Gordon McLachlan was born in Edinburgh. Following graduation from
Edinburgh University, he worked for several years on the sales side of
publishing, then assumed a full-time writing career in 1987. His many
published books include guides to Germany, Berlin, Poland and Edinburgh,
and it was his long professional association with the southern Baltic region
which inspired him to add Lithuania to this list. His special interests include
music, photography, art and architecture, reading, hiking and gastronomy.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The author would like to thank the following people in Lithuania for their
help: Au’riné OZeliené, Rita Draugsiene and family, Renata Gaidiené and
Darius Gaidys.
In the UK, thanks to Maria Lenn, Neil Taylor, author of the companion
Estonia guide, Sally Brock for typesetting, Alan Whitaker and Matt Honour
for cartography and, at Bradt Travel Guides, to Adrian Phillips for handling
the project, Selena Dickson for working on the colour section, and to Hilary
Bradt and Tricia Hayne for appreciating that Lithuania is not just ‘one of the
Baltic states’ but a distinctive nation warranting a full-length guidebook in its
own right-
Contents
Introduction
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION
Chapter | The Country
Geography 3, Natural history 6, Environmental
issues 7, Economy 9
Chapter 2 History
Ancient history of the Balts 11, Early medieval period
11, Creation of the Lithuanian state 13, Wars with the
Teutonic Knights 14, Royal union with Poland 15,
Full union with Poland 16, Polish-Lithuanian
Commonwealth 18, Vasa Dynasty and after 19,
Decline and partition 20, Lithuania under the Tsars 22,
Resurrection of Lithuania 23, Inter-war Republic 25,
Totalitarian rule 26, Second Lithuanian Republic 28
Chapter 3 The People 31
Ethnic groups 31, Religion 33, Language 35
Chapter 4 Culture 39
Customs and festivals 39, Folk music 40, Art music
42, Folk art 45, Costume 46, Fine arts 46,
Architecture 49, Literature 53
Chapter 5 Practical Information 57
When and where to go 57, Baltic travel specialists 59,
Red tape 59, Getting there 61, Health and safety 63,
Getting around 64, Electricity 67, Money matters 67,
Accommodation 69, Eating and drinking 71, Media
and communications 73, Miscellaneous 75
PART TWO THE GUIDE 79
Chapter 6 Vilnius County : 81
Vilnius 84, Trakai Historical National Park 135,
Other destinations in Vilnius County 141
Chapter 7 Dzikija 145
Northern Dzikija 145, Dziikija National Park 149,
Druskininkai 160
Chapter 8 Kaunas County 169
Kaunas 171, Excursions from Kaunas 195
Chapter 9 AukStaitija 204
Aukstaitija National Park 204, Utena County 210,
Panevézys 216, Birzai Region 220, West from
Panevézys 222
Chapter 10 Samogitia 225
Siauliai 225, Siauliai County 232, Tel8iai County 234,
Samogitia National Park 239, Western Samogitia 246
Chapter || The Baltic Coast 253
Palanga 253, Klaipéda 264, Curonian Spit
National Park 278
Appendix | Language 293
Appendix 2. Further Reading 296
305
Index
LIST OF MAPS © ie
AukStaitija 207° Lithuania inside cover
Baltic coast 280 Nida — = 289
Druskininkai 162 Palanga re ee
— Dztikija 144 Panevézys 217
Geography 4 Samogitia 226
Kaunas city centre 172-3 Siauliai 228
Kaunas County — 198 Trakai 137
Kaunas: orientation — 170 ‘Vilnius city centre © 88
Key to map symbols — vill Vilnius County — 135
Klaipeda city centre 268 Vilnius: orientation _ 82-3
Klaipeda old town 275 Vilnius: eating & drinking —-'10
Klaipéda: orientation _ 265.
KEY TO STANDARD SYMBOLS|
International boundary Historic building
District boundary Castle, fortress
National park boundary Church, cathedral
National park Archaeological or historic site
Airport (international) Synagogue
Airport (other) Stadium
Airstrip Football stadium
Helicopter service Golf course
Railway ) Border post
Footpath : Summit
Passenger ferry Boundary beacon
Car ferry Outpost
P)
Car park Marsh
@
Bus station etc Rock shelter
ae
One-way Cable car, funicular
M Underground station Mountain pass
®
Petrol station or garage Waterhole
S
Bank Scenic viewpoint
t
Hut Botanical site
Q
Bar, wine bar Specific woodland feature
*
Restaurant, café etc Statue, monument
o
Hotel, inn etc Campsite
¢
Telephone Fishing sites
)
Internet café Bird nesting site
fe Hospital, clinic, sanatorium Waterfall
on Museum Source of river
x Post office Beach
Tourist information Zoo
Other map symbols shown on individual maps
