Lebanese home cooking: simple, delicious, mostly vegetarian recipes from the founder of Beirut's Souk el Tayeb Market

163 Pages·2015·35.694 MB·English

by  Mouzawak, Kamal

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“To me, Kamal is one of the great culinary minds
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Growing up around the orchards of Jeita, just outside Beirut,

Kamal Mouzawak learned to cook by watching his family and cc
neighbors plant herbs in their gardens, harvest almonds and oo
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citrus fruit from their trees, and transform these bounties into
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the fresh and distinctive cuisine of home.
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After the Lebanese Civil War, Kamal toured the farthest
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regions of his country, discovering yet more neighbors from
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differing religions and traditions, sharing a common land
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and fare.

Lebanese Home Cooking is an invitation to explore these
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ISBN: 978-1-63159-037-5 kk
$24.99 US | £15.99 UK | $29.99 CAN
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Kamal Mouzawak
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l ebanese
home
ccooookkiinngg
Simple, Delicious, Mostly Vegetarian
Recipes from the Founder of Beirut’s
Souk el Tayeb Market
Kamal Mouzawak
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l ebanese
home
ccooookkiinngg
Simple, Delicious, Mostly Vegetarian
Recipes from the Founder of Beirut’s
Souk el Tayeb Market
Kamal Mouzawak
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© 2015 by Quarry Books
Text and Photography © 2015 Quarry Books
First published in the United States of America in 2015 by
Quarry Books, a member of Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.
100 Cummings Center
Suite 406-L
Beverly, Massachusetts 01915-6101
Telephone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
www.quarrybooks.com
Visit www.QuarrySPOON.com and help us celebrate food
and culture one spoonful at a time!
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in
any form without written permission of the copyright owners.
All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge
and prior consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility
is accepted by the producer, publisher, or printer for any infringe-
ment of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this
publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits acc-
urately comply with information supplied. We apologize for any
inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate
or missing information in a subsequent reprinting of the book.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
ISBN: 978-1-63159-037-5
Digital edition published in 2015
eISBN: 978-1-62788-334-4
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available
Design: Jonathan Hanahan & Dani LaFountaine, Milieu
Photography: Ayla Hibri
Printed in China
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© 2015 by Quarry Books
Text and Photography © 2015 Quarry Books
First published in the United States of America in 2015 by
Quarry Books, a member of Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc.
100 Cummings Center
Suite 406-L
Beverly, Massachusetts 01915-6101
Telephone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
www.quarrybooks.com
Visit www.QuarrySPOON.com and help us celebrate food
and culture one spoonful at a time!
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in
any form without written permission of the copyright owners.
All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge
and prior consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility
is accepted by the producer, publisher, or printer for any infringe-
ment of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this
publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits acc-
urately comply with information supplied. We apologize for any
inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate
or missing information in a subsequent reprinting of the book.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
ISBN: 978-1-63159-037-5
Digital edition published in 2015
eISBN: 978-1-62788-334-4
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available
Design: Jonathan Hanahan & Dani LaFountaine, Milieu
Photography: Ayla Hibri
Printed in China
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SALADS AND BREADS Garlic Paste (Toum)
CCOONNTTEENNTTSS
92 138
Fried Eggplant with Yogurt and Pine Nuts
(Fatteh Batenjenn)
Tabouleh 139
97
Bread Salad (Fattoush)
100 SWEETS
INTRODUCTION Bulgur with Cabbage and Chile VEGETABLES
Purslane and Beets (Baa’leh w Shmandar) 140
08 (Marshousheh) 62
102
31
White Bean Salad
Smoked Green Wheat with Vegetables
(Fassolia Aa'rida Moutabale) Carob Cake (Sfouf b' Debs)
(Frikeh bel Khodra) Vegetarian Stuffed Grape Leaves
106 143
32 (Warra' Arrish Atee')
Thyme Flatbread (Manaiish) Turmeric Cake (Sfouf)
Armenian Fine Bulgur Salad (Itch) 64
108 145
34 Beef-Stuffed Zucchini (Koussa Mehsheh)
Cheese Pies (Fatayer Jebneh) Chilled Apricot Soup (Khoshaf)
68
109 147
Eggplant Fatteh (Fatteh Makdouss)
Spinach and Sumac Pies (Fatayer Khodra) Fried Biscuits in Scented Syrup (Maakroun)
MUJADARA 70
112 148
36 Fried Taro with Chickpeas and Onions
Meat Pies (Lahm B'ajin) Wheat, Fruits, and Nuts (Qamhyieh)
(Kelkass b Tehineh)
115 150
72
Sesame Bars (Semsemyieh)
Southern-Style Split Lentils with Rice Taro with Lentils (Kelkass bi Adass)
152
(Mujadara Safra) 73
GOOD FRIDAY FOOD Rice Pudding with Spices (Meghli)
38 Eggplant in Spicy Tomato Sauce
116 154
Lentils and Rice (Mujadara) (Massaee’t Batenjenn)
40 75
Wilted Greens with Fried Onions
Red Beans and Bulgur (Mjadaret Loubyieh) Summer Zucchini Stew (Mfaraket Koussa)
(Hendbeh b Zeit) Bulgur Chickpea Stew (Zenkol)
41 76
78 118
Grainy-Style Rice with Lentils (Mudardara)
Stuffed Artichokes Homemade Noodles with Lentils (Reshta)
44
(Ardeh Chawkeh Mehsheh) 121
Lentils and Rice with Beef
80 Kibbeh with Chickpeas (Kebbet Hommos)
KIBBEH (Mujadara b' Lahmeh)
Fried Cauliflower with Tarator Sauce 122
12 45
(Arnabit Meeleh + Tarator) Baked Vegetable Stew
83 (Masbahet el Darwish)
Fried Zucchini and Eggplant 123
Pumpkin Kibbeh (Kebbet Laa’tin) STEWS
(Koussa w Batenjenn Mee’leh) Thick Mixed Bean Soup (Makhlouta)
15 46
84 125
Potato Kibbeh (Kebbet Batata Nayeh)
Fried Eggplant with Yogurt (Mfassah')
19
85
Armenian Lentil Kibbeh (Vospov Kofte) Okra Stew (Yakhnet Bemyieh)
Potatoes with Green Coriander and Chile SOUK AND STREET FOOD
21 51
Flakes (Batata Harra) 126
Fish Kibbeh (Kebbet Samak) Red Bean Stew (Fassolia B'zeit)
86
23 53
Chard Stalks in Tarator
White Butter Bean Stew
(Dlou’ Selee’ Mtaballeh) Eggplant Dip (Moutabal)
(Yakhnet Fassolia Baida Arrida)
88 128
GRAINS 55
Potatoes with Coriander and Cumin Hummus
24 Green Fava Bean Stew (Foul Akhdar b’ Zeit)
(Batata Jezzinyieh) 130
56
89 Fava Bean Stew (Foul Medamass) INDEX
Lemony Lentil Stew (Aadass bi Hammod)
Mashed Potatoes with Herbs 131 155
Bulgur with Tomatoes and Peppers 58
(Batata Melee’yieh) Chickpeas with Yogurt (Fatteh Hommos)
(Burghol aa’ Banadoura) Stewed Green Beans (Loubyieh B'zeit)
90 133 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
27 59
Falafel 159
Bulgur with Mixed Vegetables (Makmoura) Spinach Stew with Pine Nuts
134
28 (Yakhnet Sbenegh)
Tahini Sauce (Tarator) ABOUT THE AUTHOR
60
136 160
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SALADS AND BREADS Garlic Paste (Toum)
CCOONNTTEENNTTSS
92 138
Fried Eggplant with Yogurt and Pine Nuts
(Fatteh Batenjenn)
Tabouleh 139
97
Bread Salad (Fattoush)
100 SWEETS
INTRODUCTION Bulgur with Cabbage and Chile VEGETABLES
Purslane and Beets (Baa’leh w Shmandar) 140
08 (Marshousheh) 62
102
31
White Bean Salad
Smoked Green Wheat with Vegetables
(Fassolia Aa'rida Moutabale) Carob Cake (Sfouf b' Debs)
(Frikeh bel Khodra) Vegetarian Stuffed Grape Leaves
106 143
32 (Warra' Arrish Atee')
Thyme Flatbread (Manaiish) Turmeric Cake (Sfouf)
Armenian Fine Bulgur Salad (Itch) 64
108 145
34 Beef-Stuffed Zucchini (Koussa Mehsheh)
Cheese Pies (Fatayer Jebneh) Chilled Apricot Soup (Khoshaf)
68
109 147
Eggplant Fatteh (Fatteh Makdouss)
Spinach and Sumac Pies (Fatayer Khodra) Fried Biscuits in Scented Syrup (Maakroun)
MUJADARA 70
112 148
36 Fried Taro with Chickpeas and Onions
Meat Pies (Lahm B'ajin) Wheat, Fruits, and Nuts (Qamhyieh)
(Kelkass b Tehineh)
115 150
72
Sesame Bars (Semsemyieh)
Southern-Style Split Lentils with Rice Taro with Lentils (Kelkass bi Adass)
152
(Mujadara Safra) 73
GOOD FRIDAY FOOD Rice Pudding with Spices (Meghli)
38 Eggplant in Spicy Tomato Sauce
116 154
Lentils and Rice (Mujadara) (Massaee’t Batenjenn)
40 75
Wilted Greens with Fried Onions
Red Beans and Bulgur (Mjadaret Loubyieh) Summer Zucchini Stew (Mfaraket Koussa)
(Hendbeh b Zeit) Bulgur Chickpea Stew (Zenkol)
41 76
78 118
Grainy-Style Rice with Lentils (Mudardara)
Stuffed Artichokes Homemade Noodles with Lentils (Reshta)
44
(Ardeh Chawkeh Mehsheh) 121
Lentils and Rice with Beef
80 Kibbeh with Chickpeas (Kebbet Hommos)
KIBBEH (Mujadara b' Lahmeh)
Fried Cauliflower with Tarator Sauce 122
12 45
(Arnabit Meeleh + Tarator) Baked Vegetable Stew
83 (Masbahet el Darwish)
Fried Zucchini and Eggplant 123
Pumpkin Kibbeh (Kebbet Laa’tin) STEWS
(Koussa w Batenjenn Mee’leh) Thick Mixed Bean Soup (Makhlouta)
15 46
84 125
Potato Kibbeh (Kebbet Batata Nayeh)
Fried Eggplant with Yogurt (Mfassah')
19
85
Armenian Lentil Kibbeh (Vospov Kofte) Okra Stew (Yakhnet Bemyieh)
Potatoes with Green Coriander and Chile SOUK AND STREET FOOD
21 51
Flakes (Batata Harra) 126
Fish Kibbeh (Kebbet Samak) Red Bean Stew (Fassolia B'zeit)
86
23 53
Chard Stalks in Tarator
White Butter Bean Stew
(Dlou’ Selee’ Mtaballeh) Eggplant Dip (Moutabal)
(Yakhnet Fassolia Baida Arrida)
88 128
GRAINS 55
Potatoes with Coriander and Cumin Hummus
24 Green Fava Bean Stew (Foul Akhdar b’ Zeit)
(Batata Jezzinyieh) 130
56
89 Fava Bean Stew (Foul Medamass) INDEX
Lemony Lentil Stew (Aadass bi Hammod)
Mashed Potatoes with Herbs 131 155
Bulgur with Tomatoes and Peppers 58
(Batata Melee’yieh) Chickpeas with Yogurt (Fatteh Hommos)
(Burghol aa’ Banadoura) Stewed Green Beans (Loubyieh B'zeit)
90 133 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
27 59
Falafel 159
Bulgur with Mixed Vegetables (Makmoura) Spinach Stew with Pine Nuts
134
28 (Yakhnet Sbenegh)
Tahini Sauce (Tarator) ABOUT THE AUTHOR
60
136 160
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IINNTTRROODDUUCCTTIIOONN Why? Because no one can teach cooking. And no one can My mother had her cahier de recettes, a notebook of
be taught to cook. You just cook! Like you breathe, you handwritten recipes of dishes or cakes she had tasted, and
live, you make love, you walk … no one taught you how to so recorded recipes like kèke tante Eugénie (a cake,
walk. Can you imagine? "Put your right foot in front, lean in her own way of writing English—when she knew French
on it, then move the left farther ahead … !" You have never but not English!) and osmalyieh de Thérèse (a pastry), but
said this or heard this being told to a one-year-old toddler. never a main dish. And she had an old French dessert
That child just tried to walk, and you just stood by, cookbook, inherited from a nun in the nearby convent,
watching and encouraging, until he or she walked alone! written by Henri-Paul Pellaprat, who wrote the cooking
So, you just cook! And you cook for so many reasons: bible of every French household in the old days. Main
because you need to feed yourself; because you need to dishes were never in the cahier de recettes. How could
feed your family; because you need to gather around what they be? Baking was one thing, but cooking was just
can be shared by a group, a tribe of family, or friends; understood. It was never written, never taught. You
because you want to treat yourself and others; because just cook!
you can communicate love and caring through a bite; You just join a cook in the kitchen, help and watch,
because this is how you live; or because this is how you and you will learn—not the recipe, but the way. And then
can perpetuate what you lived. you will make it your own way. We all learn the same
Sales of books in most literary genres are down— alphabet, but no two people ever write the same way.
except for food and drink, and religion! Is food the new In school, I studied graphic design. But I never
religion? Do "foodies" find in food and cooking the life worked in it. I worked at Art et Culture, the first cultural
they dream about and aspire to? There are many chefs, center that sprouted after the civil war in Lebanon ended
cooks, and "lifestylers" who will tell you, and issue edicts, (1991), and that was a great teaching time in my life. I
on what must be done, eaten, and bought … for a saw people from all regions, the different religions and
better life! politics of Lebanon, those who were fighting yesterday
As British journalist Steven Poole, author of You but were coming together then around art and culture.
Aren’t What You Eat, says, "We no longer trust politicians It was a common ground that could bring them all toge-
or the clergy; but we are hungry for cooks to tell us not ther, looking for similarities beyond their differences.
just how to eat but how to live, the moralistic synecdoche And so I started touring a country I had lived in
easily accomplished since we now happily accept that one but had never known (Lebanon during the war was divided
lives through eating." into many unreachable parts) and started discovering
wonderful people, the same everywhere, who had
in common a land, an agriculture, and a cuisine.
The Orchards of Jeita
I started writing about travel and food, about places,
traditions, the hows and whys, trying to understand a bit
In Lebanon, I grew up around orchards in Jeita, a small better this patchwork that was Lebanon. It’s a place like
village close to Beirut that is known for its wonderful nowhere else in the world, where everyone is “the one”
Do you really need another cookbook? How caves. Men were busy in the gardens, planting herbs and and “the other” at the same time, and where everybody is
many do you already own? What would you salad greens and harvesting citrus fruits and almonds. And part of a bigger mosaic that tries to stick together as much
use it for? Do you ever open a cookbook to women were busy in the kitchens, transforming the as possible: Christians and Muslims, sea people and
cook? Or it is more like a perfect object to look gardens' bounties into what we ate for breakfast, lunch, mountain people, those looking to the East and those
at? Do I sound like your mom? If so, I'd rather and dinner—and competing over who could do what best. looking to the West… all trying to make one together!
evoke her, not by reprimanding you, but by Obviously, each one thought all that she did was the best Then I developed an interest in macrobiotics and in
cooking with you! and looked with pity on the lesser good the others did! the Slow Food movement. In the spring of 2004, the first
8 9
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