Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York

388 Pages·2003·7.62 MB·English

The Archaeology of York
Volume 17: The Small Finds
General Editor R.A. Hall
© York Archaeological Trust for Excavation and Research 2003
Published by
Council for British Archaeology
Bowes Morrell House
111 Walmgate
York YO1 9WA
The Archaeology of York
Vol.17: The Small Finds
Fasc.16: Craft, Industry and Everyday Life: Leather and Leatherworking
in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York
338.4’7685’0942843’0902
First published in print format 2003
ISBN 1 902771 36 2
ISBN 978-1 874454 50 2 (e-book)
Printed by Cover design: L. Collett
Charlesworth Cover photography: M. Andrews
Huddersfield
W. Yorkshire
Craft, Industry and Everyday Life:
Leather and Leatherworking in
Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York
By Quita Mould, Ian Carlisle and Esther Cameron
Published for York Archaeological Trust by the 2003
Council for British Archaeology

Contents
General Introduction.....................................................................................................................................................3185
Introduction to the sites and their dating by R.A. Hall, N.F. Pearson and R. Finlayson........................................3187
The nature of the assemblages.....................................................................................................................................3203
Conservation of the Leatherwork by J.A. Spriggs .....................................................................................................3213
Craft and Industry .........................................................................................................................................................3222
The surviving evidence...........................................................................................................................................3222
The leatherworking trades................................................................................................................................3222
Current documentary knowledge by Lisa Liddy............................................................................................3222
The street-name evidence by Gillian Fellows-Jensen.......................................................................................3226
The physical evidence........................................................................................................................................3227
Environmental evidence by Allan Hall and Harry Kenward..........................................................................3230
The osteological evidence by T.P. O’Connor....................................................................................................3231
The leatherworking tools recovered by Patrick Ottaway and Carole A. Morris..........................................3235
The waste leather with a contribution by Ailsa Mainman...............................................................................3245
The craft of the leatherworker................................................................................................................................3256
The shoe-maker...................................................................................................................................................3256
Shoe construction with a contribution by Penelope Walton Rogers.................................................................3256
The sheath- and scabbard-maker.....................................................................................................................3261
Decorative techniques employed on leather .................................................................................................3262
Teeth marks..........................................................................................................................................................3264
Types of leather used.........................................................................................................................................3265
Conclusion.................................................................................................................................................................3267
Everyday Life..................................................................................................................................................................3268
Introduction...............................................................................................................................................................3268
Shoes...........................................................................................................................................................................3268
Constructions ......................................................................................................................................................3268
Anglo-Scandinavian styles ...............................................................................................................................3274
Medieval styles ...................................................................................................................................................3312
Sizes ......................................................................................................................................................................3336
Decoration with a contribution by Penelope Walton Rogers.............................................................................3340
Refurbishment and repair.................................................................................................................................3346
Foot pathologies..................................................................................................................................................3351
Sheaths and scabbards with a contribution by John A. Goodall............................................................................3354
Other leather objects................................................................................................................................................3392
Wealth and status reflected in the leather from York.........................................................................................3415
The Wider Picture ..........................................................................................................................................................3418
Anglo-Scandinavian and medieval leather found at York................................................................................3418
Comparable assemblages from elsewhere in Britain.........................................................................................3426
Possible cultural influences....................................................................................................................................3428
International relations by Carol van Driel-Murray ...............................................................................................3431
The significance of the York assemblage by R.A. Hall........................................................................................3436
Catalogue.........................................................................................................................................................................3439
Appendix: Quantifications of shoes of each style ....................................................................................................3533

List of Figures
1559 Plan showing position of (1) 16–22 Coppergate; (2) area of Watching Brief, zones 1–7;
(3) 22 Piccadilly; (4) St Mary, Castlegate; (5) All Saints, Pavement...........................................................3188
1560 Plans of the site at 16–22 Coppergate showing the area of deposits excavated for Periods 2–5.....3192–3
1561 Plans of the site at 16–22 Coppergate showing the area of deposits excavated for Period 6...........3194–5
1562 Plan showing the location of excavations, and building recording in the Bedern area........................3200
1563 Recording leather before conservation ..........................................................................................................3214
1564 The freeze-drier in use with leather ...............................................................................................................3216
1565 Conservator in the process of reconstructing a shoe...................................................................................3217
1566 Scabbard 15661: (a) before conservation; (b) during conservation (gap filling); (c) during
conservation (painting gap-filled sections)...................................................................................................3218
1567 Reconstructed leather footwear.......................................................................................................................3219
1568 Shoe uppers which received different conservation treatments: (a) Pliantine (15880–1);
(b) Bavon (15498 and 15509); (c) freeze-drying (15507 and 15510)...........................................................3220
1569 Untanned calfskin 15823 ..................................................................................................................................3220
1570 Plan of York showing streets and parishes associated with leatherworking ..........................................3225
1571 Possible stretcher frame from 6–8 Pavement................................................................................................3228
1572 Currier’s knives from 16–22 Coppergate and slicker from Bedern Foundry..........................................3236
1573 Double-armed leather creasers from Anglo-Scandinavian contexts at Coppergate..............................3237
1574 Awls from Anglo-Scandinavian contexts at Coppergate............................................................................3237
1575 Awls from medieval contexts at Coppergate and Bedern..........................................................................3238
1576 Iron shears from Anglo-Scandinavian contexts at Coppergate.................................................................3239
1577 Iron shears from medieval contexts at Coppergate and Bedern ...............................................................3240
1578 Map of Britain and Ireland showing the main sites referred to in the text..............................................3241
1579 Map of northern Europe showing the main sites referred to in the text..................................................3242
1580 Willow last from Coppergate for shoe- or patten-making..........................................................................3244
1581 Primary, secondary and tertiary waste from 16–22 Coppergate...............................................................3245
1582 Distribution of primary waste from 16–22 Coppergate: Period 4B ..........................................................3248
1583 Distribution of secondary waste from 16–22 Coppergate: Period 4B.......................................................3249
1584 Distribution of tertiary waste from 16–22 Coppergate: Period 4B............................................................3250
1585 Distribution of primary waste from 16–22 Coppergate: Period 5B ..........................................................3251
1586 Distribution of secondary waste from 16–22 Coppergate: Period 5B.......................................................3252
1587 Distribution of tertiary waste from 16–22 Coppergate: Period 5B............................................................3253
1588 Group of flesh shavings and primary waste.................................................................................................3254
1589 Seams used in leatherworking ........................................................................................................................3257
1590 The stitch most commonly used in shoe and strap construction ..............................................................3259
1591 Leather secondary waste: sf18099 with a single bite mark and sf17546 with multiple bite
marks, both from 16–22 Coppergate..............................................................................................................3264
1592 Diagram of shoe constructions found............................................................................................................3269
1593 Sole measurements taken.................................................................................................................................3272
1594 Sole types.............................................................................................................................................................3273
1595 Diagram showing the range of shoe styles represented by the leather shoe components
found at York...........................................................................................................................................facing 3274
1596 Stitch conventions used in illustrations.........................................................................................................3275
1597 Diagrams to explain terminology used to describe shoe parts: (a) shoe soles; (b) shoe uppers
of principally one-piece construction; (c) shoe uppers with separate vamp and quarters;
(d) terms used to describe shoe vamps and quarters..............................................................................3276–7
1598 15357, shoe Style 1, made from a single piece of leather............................................................................3278
1599 15354, shoe Style 1, made from a single piece of leather............................................................................3279
1600 15354, shoe Style 1, after reconstruction........................................................................................................3279
1601 15353, shoe Style 1, made from a single piece of leather............................................................................3280
1602 15355, shoe Style 1, made from a single piece of leather............................................................................3281
1603 Map of Europe showing places mentioned in the discussion of shoes made of a single
piece of leather...................................................................................................................................................3282
1604 15371, shoe Style 2, after reconstruction........................................................................................................3282
1605 15372, shoe Style 2, construction type 1.........................................................................................................3283
1606 15372, shoe Style 2, after reconstruction........................................................................................................3283
1607 15359, shoe Style 2, with wide top band........................................................................................................3284
1608 15358, shoe Style 2, with upper made in two halves...................................................................................3284
1609 15374, shoe Style 2, with insert and narrow top band.................................................................................3285
1610 15365, shoe Style 2, with narrow top band....................................................................................................3285
1611 15367, shoe Style 2 .............................................................................................................................................3286
1612 15361, shoe Style 2.............................................................................................................................................3286
1613 Map of Europe showing places where low-cut slip-on shoes with a seam at centre back
have been found.................................................................................................................................................3287
1614 15381, shoe Style 3b1 after reconstruction, with later slits to hold a drawstring ...................................3289
1615 15395, shoe Style 3b1, with the heel area of the uppers supported internally by a heel stiffener.......3290
1616 15385, shoe Style 3b1.........................................................................................................................................3291
1617 15376, shoe Style 3a1.........................................................................................................................................3292
1618 15382, shoe Style 3b1, modified with a single slash at the throat..............................................................3292
1619 15397, shoe Style 3b1, modified with a double slash at the throat............................................................3293
1620 15387, shoe Style 3b1, with a slash across the instep...................................................................................3293
1621 15390, shoe Style 3b1, with a slash across the instep...................................................................................3293
1622 15386, shoe Style 3b1, with a small rectangular tongue at the centre of the throat................................3294
1623 15398, shoe Style 3a2, with widely spaced slots around the upper to hold the drawstring
in place.................................................................................................................................................................3295
1624 15404, shoe Style 3b2, with widely spaced slots around the upper to hold the drawstring
in place.................................................................................................................................................................3296
1625 15399, shoe Style 3a2, with fine and closely spaced drawstring slots......................................................3297
1626 15408, top edge of upper with fine drawstring slots...................................................................................3297
1627 15413, shoe Style 3b3, with separate drawstring sewn to the centre of the throat of the upper..........3298
1628 15413 after reconstruction ................................................................................................................................3298
1629 15414, shoe Style 3b3, with separate drawstring sewn to the centre of the throat of the upper..........3299
1630 15419, variant Style 3b4, with a rectangular insert between the quarter and the vamp wing
at the side seam..................................................................................................................................................3299
1631 15418, shoe Style 3a4, with crescent-shaped insert sewn to the throat ....................................................3300
1632 15423, shoe Style 3b4, with crescent-shaped insert sewn to the throat....................................................3301
1633 15424, shoe Style 3b5, with a peak at the centre of the throat....................................................................3301
1634 15425, shoe Style 3b5, with a peak at the centre of the throat....................................................................3302
1635 15429, shoe Style 4a1, with a single wide flap with a toggle and loop fastening...................................3303
1636 15430, shoe Style 4a1, with a single wide flap with a toggle and loop fastening...................................3304
1637 15880, shoe Style 4a2, fastened with two toggles on a single flap ............................................................3305
1638 15881, shoe Style 4a2, fastened with two toggles on a single flap ............................................................3306
1639 15439, shoe Style 4a3, fastened with a double flap and toggles................................................................3306
1640 15438, shoe Style 4a3, fastened with a double flap and toggles................................................................3306
1641 15436, shoe Style 4a3, fastened with a double flap and toggles................................................................3307
1642 Map of Europe showing places where one-piece ankle-shoes fastened with flaps and
toggles have been found...................................................................................................................................3308
1643 15442, shoe Style 4a4, fastened with double top band flap and toggles..................................................3308
1644 15447, shoe Style 4a4, fastened with double top band flap and toggles..................................................3309
1645 15444, shoe Style 4a4, with either single or double top band flap and toggles ......................................3310
1646 15847, shoe Style 5, one-piece upper with flap and toggle fastening.......................................................3311
1647 15453, remains of another Anglo-Scandinavian style shoe........................................................................3312
1648 15454, shoe Style 6, fastening at the front with integral laces....................................................................3313
1649 15459, shoe Style 7a, with integral front flaps ..............................................................................................3315
1650 15460, shoe Style 7a, with integral front flaps and top band decorated with embroidery...................3316
1651 15468, shoe Style 7b1, with one front flap integral and the other an insert stitched to the quarter....3317
1652 15479, shoe Style 7c1, with one front flap integral and the other an insert stitched to a
projection on top of the vamp wing...............................................................................................................3318
1653 15485, shoe Style 7b2, with drawstring passing through multiple slots..................................................3320
1654 15487, shoe Style 7b/c3, with drawstring passing though vertical thronged loops..............................3321
1655 15489, Style 7c3, with drawstring passing though vertical thronged loops............................................3322
1656 15490, shoe Style 7b/c3, with drawstring passing though vertical thronged loops..............................3323
1657 15495, Style 8a, a front toggle-fastened ankle-shoe .....................................................................................3324
1658 15496, Style 8b, a front toggle-fastened boot.................................................................................................3324
1659 15497, Style 8c, a front toggle- and lace-fastened boot................................................................................3325
1660 Two views of reconstructed boot 15497.........................................................................................................3326
1661 15498, Style 8d, a front-lacing one-piece ankle-boot ...................................................................................3327
1662 15833, Style 8e, a one-piece ankle-boot fastening at the front with a buckle and strap........................3228
1663 15500, Style 9a, a boot of one-piece construction lacing at the side..........................................................3329
1664 15501, Style 9b, a shoe of two-piece construction lacing at the side.........................................................3330
1665 15504, Style 9b, a boot of two-piece construction lacing at the side .........................................................3331
1666 15505, Style 10, a shoe of two-piece construction lacing at the front........................................................3332
1667 15511, Style 11-, with moss stuffing in the toe..............................................................................................3333
1668 15507, Style 11a, a front latchet-fastened shoe..............................................................................................3334
1669 15508, Style 11a, a front latchet-fastened shoe..............................................................................................3334
1670 15509, Style 11b, a front buckle- and strap-fastened shoe..........................................................................3335
1671 Diagram showing numbers of shoes of Styles 2, 3, 4 and 7 in sizes worn by children, males
and females.........................................................................................................................................................3339
1672 Tooled decoration on shoe sole heel extensions...........................................................................................3341
1673 Detail of 15524, showing single line of tunnel stitching for a vamp stripe..............................................3342
1674 Two examples of three rows of stitching between scored lines for a vamp strip...................................3342
1675 Top band 15540, with double row of embroidery between scored lines..................................................3343
1676 Top band 15543, with triple row of embroidery between scored lines ....................................................3344
1677 Top band 15410, with rows of slits for decorative thonging......................................................................3344
1678 Detail of 15457, Style 7a1, with lightly scraped decoration........................................................................3345
1679 Detail of 15483, Style 7c1, with scraped decoration.....................................................................................3346
1680 15426, with the vamp slashed close to the lateral joint to relieve pressure perhaps from
hammer toe.........................................................................................................................................................3352
1681 Sole of 15487 showing hole worn through by the great toe as a result of hallus rigidus........................3352
1682 Distribution of sheaths at 16–22 Coppergate in Period 4B.........................................................................3356
1683 Distribution of sheaths at 16–22 Coppergate in Period 5B.........................................................................3357
1684 Distribution of scabbards at 16–22 Coppergate in Period 4B.....................................................................3358
1685 Distribution of scabbards at 16–22 Coppergate in Period 5B.....................................................................3359
1686 Three unprovenanced scabbard leathers from York...............................................................................3360–1
1687 Scabbards of the 10th and 11th century from 16–22 Coppergate..............................................................3362
1688 Diagram to explain what a strap-slide was and showing four types of strap-slides for scabbards ...3363
1689 Detail of scabbard 15545 showing outline for strap-slide and circular impression...............................3366
1690 Post-Conquest scabbard 15601 from 16–22 Coppergate.............................................................................3366
1691 Belts and straps used for the suspension of scabbards in the medieval period .....................................3368
1692 Sheaths of knives and seaxes from Anglo-Scandinavian York: Type A1 .................................................3370
1693 Front and back view of knife sheath 15890, of Anglo-Scandinavian Type A1........................................3371
1694 Sheaths of knives and seaxes from Anglo-Scandinavian York: Type A2 .................................................3372
1695 Front and back view of sheath 15617 of Type B1.........................................................................................3373
1696 Detail of sheath 15617 showing seam ............................................................................................................3373
1697 Sheaths of knives and seaxes from Anglo-Scandinavian York: Type B1..............................................3374–5