Latvia: The Bradt Travel Guide

268 Pages·2005·17.494 MB·English

by  Stephen Baister, Chris Patrick

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Latvia
THE BRADT TRAVEL GUIDE
PUBLISHER’S FOREWORD
The first Bradt travel guide was written in 1974 by George and Hilary
Bradt on a river barge floating down a tributary of the Amazon. In the
1980s and '90s the focus shifted away from hiking to broader-based
guides covering new destinations — usually the first to be published
about these places. In the 21st century Bradt continues to publish such
ground-breaking guides, as well as others to established holiday
destinations, incorporating in-depth information on culture and
natural history with the nuts and bolts of where to stay and what to
see.
Bradt authors support responsible travel, and provide advice not
only on minimum impact but also on how to give something back
through local charities. In this way a true synergy is achieved between
the traveller and local communities.
*
It’s lovely to welcome a fourth edition of Latvia by my old friends
Stephen Baister and Chris Patrick. They were responsible for one of
the first Bradt best-sellers, a guide to East Germany published when
this was a separate country and independent Latvia didn’t exist. When
The Wall came down we lost one title but gained many others,
notably Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. There are few remnants of the
old Soviet Union in this now vibrant country, but Stephen and Chris
can justifiably claim to have helped put Latvia on the tourist map when
their guide was first published in 1995.
\ 4 oo ics aay
Hilary Bradt
19 High Street, Chalfont St Peter, Bucks SL9 9QE, England
Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone]
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.bradtguides.com
Latvia
THE BRADT TRAVEL GUIDE
Fourth Edition
Stephen Baister
Chris Patrick
Bradt Travel Guides Ltd, UK
The Globe Pequot Press Inc, USA
Fourth edition 2005
First published 1995
Bradt Travel Guides Ltd
19 High Street, Chalfont St Peter, Bucks SL9 9QE, England
www.bradtguides.com
Published in the USA by The Globe Pequot Press Inc,
246 Goose Lane, PO Box 480, Guilford, Connecticut 06437-0480
Text copyright © 2005 Stephen Baister and Chris Patrick
Maps copyright © 2005 Bradt Travel Guides Ltd
Illustrations © 2005 individual artists and photographers
The authors and publisher have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
information in this book at the time of going to press. However, they cannot accept any
responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience resulting from the use of
information contained in this guide.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior consent of the publishers.
Requests for permission should be addressed to Bradt Travel Guides Ltd, 19 High
Street, Chalfont St Peter, Bucks SL9 9QE in the UK; or to The Globe Pequot Press Inc,
246 Goose Lane, PO Box 480, Guilford, Connecticut 06437-0480
in North and South America.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
ISBN-10: 1 84162 121 8
ISBN-13: 978 1 84162 121 0
Photographs
Front cover Statue by Indulis Ranks at the Sculpture Park, Turaida (SC)
Text Stephen Baister & Chris Patrick (SC), Tricia Hayne (TH), Rachel Russell (RR),
Mark Wadlow (MW)
Illustrations John Baister, Carole Vincer
Maps Alan Whitaker, Matt Honour
Typeset from the authors’ disc by Wakewing
Printed and bound in Italy by Legoprint SpA, Trento
Authors
Stephen Baister studied modern languages at Oxford and London universities
and worked as a publisher before becoming a solicitor. While in practice, he
represented a number of clients with interests in eastern and central Europe. He
was co-author of the Bradt Guide to East Germany, published in 1990, a contributor
to Eastern Europe by Rail (Bradt Travel Guides 1994) and co-author of the Riga: The
Bradt City Guide. He has a doctorate in East European law from University College
London. He is now a Registrar in Bankruptcy in the High Court.
Chris Patrick has a degree in French and German from Oxford University. After
graduation she lived and worked in Japan and travelled extensively in the Far East.
She works now in international research and consultancy. She has assisted a
number of organisations from eastern Europe in doing business in the Far East.
She first visited Latvia in 1989 and has returned many times since. She was co-
author of the Bradt Guide to East Germany, published in 1990, a contributor to
Eastern Europe by Rail (Bradt Travel Guides 1994) and co-author of Riga: The Bradt
City Guide.
Introduction Ix
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION I
Chapter | The Country 3
Geography 3, Natural history 5, Environmental issues 10
Chapter 2 History and Economy 13
History 13, Government and politics 24, Economy 25
Chapter 3 People and Culture 27
Ethnicity 27, Religion 30, Language 32, National
customs 34, Traditional Latvian holidays and events 36,
Arts 38
Chapter 4 Practical Information 49
When to go 49, Getting there and away 49, Tour
operators 51, Getting around 53, Red tape 55, Money 57,
Health 57, Crime and personal safety 58, Costs 58,
Tipping 59, Language 59, Accommodation 59, Food and
drink 60, What to take 64, Electricity 64, Media and
communications 64, Doing business in Latvia 66,
Other practicalities 67, Useful addresses 67,
Local charities 68
PART TWO THE COUNTRY 69
Chapter 5 Riga 71
History 72, Getting around 77, Accommodation 78,
Eating out 86, Nightlife 92, Entertainment 93,
Shopping 95, Places of worship 99, Money and post 99,
Walks in Riga 100, Museums 121, Outside the centre 126
Chapter 6 Near Riga 133
Jarmala 133, Salaspils 141, Other places near Riga 141
Chapter 7 Vidzeme 143
Main attractions 143, History 143, Getting around 14,
Sigulda and Turaida, Césis, the Gauja 145, Between Riga
and Estonia: the Gulf of Riga 165, Southern Vidzeme:
Madona, Piebalga, Alaiksne 169
Chapter 8 Kurzeme 175
Main attractions 175, History 175, A trip around
Kurzeme 177
Chapter 9 Zemgale 201
Main attractions 201, History 201, A trip around
Zemgale 202, Bauska to Rundale 205, Rundile to
Jelgava 207
Chapter 10 Latgale and the Daugava River Valley 213
Main attractions 213, History 213, A trip around
Latgale 214, Riga to Daugavpils 214, Beyond
Daugavpils 224
Appendix | Language 229
Appendix 2 Place Names 234
Appendix 3 Further Information 236
Index 243
LIST OF MAPS Latvian provinces before
Aldksne 174 World War | 19
Bauska 204 ~— Liepaja 196
Césis 155 Ligatne Nature and
Daugava River Valley aud Educational Park 153
Daugavpils 222 Rezekne 225
Districts 4 _ Riga: art nouveau 118
Dundaga 185 Riga centre 80-|
Gauja National Park 160 Riga: Old Town 101
Geography 6 Rundale 206
Jekabpils 219 — Sigulda 146
Jelgava 209 ~— Talsi 183
Jurmala 134 Tukums 178
Kandava 181 Valmiera 162
Kuldiga 193 Ventspils 189
Kurzeme, northern 176 Vidzeme, central and
Kurzeme, southern 194 southern 144
Latgale 226 Vidzeme, northern 164
Latvia front cover Zemgale 200
For key to map symbols, see page 228.
Acknowledgements
The authors would like to thank the following people for their generous help in
the preparation of this book:
Inara Punga, William Hough and Karlis Cerbulis who produced the first
edition. Although the current edition has been substantially re-written as a
result of all the changes which have taken place recently in Latvia, we have
built on their original format.
Iréna Hamilton of the Embassy of Latvia for advice on language and culture.
Neil Taylor of Regent Holidays for invaluable suggestions, in particular on
travel and practical information.
Eva Staltmane, Director of the Latvian Tourism Development Agency in
London, for providing local knowledge and information.
Clifford Baister for help on birds and birdwatching.
James Charters for information on Jelgava and eating possibilities near the
Daugava.
Vieda Skultans for hotel recommendations.
Mareks Ameriks of the Jelgava City Museum for historical information.
George Spodris of the Bristol Latvian Society for his helpful suggestions.
The many people in the Latvian tourist offices in Latvia who provided advice
and local information.
All the staff at Bradt Travel Guides Ltd.