Kitchen Workshop-Pizza: Hands-on Cooking Lessons for Making Amazing Pizza at Home

163 Pages·2014·22.58 MB·English

by  Ruth Gresser

H E N WORK
C S
T H
I
K O
P
Hands-on Cooking Lessons
for Making Amazing Pizza
at Home
R u t h G R e s s e R
Quarry Books
100 Cummings Center, Suite 406L
Beverly, MA 01915
quarrybooks.com • quarryspoon.com
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© 2014 by Quarry Books
Text © 2014 Ruth Gresser
Photography © 2014 Moshe Zusman Photography
First published in the United States of America in 2014 by
Quarry Books, a member of
Quayside Publishing Group
100 Cummings Center
Suite 406-L
Beverly, Massachusetts 01915-6101
Telephone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
www.quarrybooks.com
Visit www.QuarrySPOON.com and help us celebrate food and culture one spoonful at a time!
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of
the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior con-
sent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted by the producer, publisher, or printer
for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every ef-
fort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied. We apologize
for any inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a
subsequent reprinting of the book.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
ISBN: 978-1-59253-883-6
Digital edition published in 2014
eISBN: 978-1-61058-897-3
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Gresser, Ruth.
Kitchen workshop--pizza : hands-on cooking lessons for making amazing pizza at home / Ruth
Gresser.
pages cm
ISBN 978-1-59253-883-6 (pbk.)
1. Pizza. I. Title. II. Title: Pizza.
TX770.P58.G74 2014
641.82'48--dc23
2013038896
Cover and Book Design: Debbie Berne
Cover Image: Moshe Zusman
Page Layout: Sporto
Concept and Recipe Development Collaboration: Bonnie Moore
Paintings on pages 3 and 158: Barbara Johnson
Graphic on page 8: Leanne Poteet
Beer Cooler Collaboration: Greg Jasgur
Printed in China
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To Marty, my partner in
food, art, and joy.
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CONTENTS
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 LeveL 2
The ClassiCs 53
FOUNDATIONS
The WhaT and hoW Seven Italian Pizza Standards
of Making Pizza 9 LESSON 1 Pizza Margherita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
LESSON 2 Pizza Marinara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
The Equipment You’ll Need . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 LESSON 3 Pizza Quattro Formaggi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
Methods To Master . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 LESSON 4 Pizza di Prosciutto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
Ingredients To Choose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 LESSON 5 Calzone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62
LESSON 6 Pizza Quattro Stagioni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
LeveL 1 LESSON 7 Pizza Napoletana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Pizza BasiCs 25
LeveL 3
Pizzeria Paradiso
Seven Variations on Tomato and Cheese Pizzas
LESSON 1 The Paradiso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 originals 69
LESSON 2 The Pizzaria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
LESSON 3 The Neapolitan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Seven Pizzas from Pizzeria Paradiso’s Menu
LESSON 4 The Gluten-Free . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 LESSON 1 Pizza Macellaio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
LESSON 5 The Whole Wheat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 LESSON 2 Pizza Bosco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
LESSON 6 The Multigrain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 LESSON 3 Pizza di Mare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
LESSON 7 The Deep Dish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 LESSON 4 Pizza Siciliana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76
LESSON 5 Pizza Atomica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
LESSON 6 Pizza Genovese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
LESSON 7 Pizza Bottarga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
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LeveL 4 LeveL 6
sauCes 85 VegeTaBles 125
Seven Sauces and Spreads with Pizzas that Use Them The A(rugula), B(roccoli), and C(auliflower)s
of Vegetables
LESSON 1 Roasted Red Pepper Sauce . . . . . . . . . .86
LESSON 2 Black Bean Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 LESSON 1 Arugula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
LESSON 3 Creamy Parmesan Cheese Sauce . .92 LESSON 2 Pumpkin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
LESSON 4 Elephant Garlic Pesto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 LESSON 3 Broccoli Rabe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
LESSON 5 Salsa Verde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 LESSON 4 Cauliflower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132
LESSON 6 Barbecue Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 LESSON 5 Fennel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
LESSON 7 Ricotta Cheese Spread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 LESSON 6 Roots and Greens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136
LESSON 7 Asparagus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
LeveL 5
LeveL 7
ProTeins 107
fruiTs 141
From Chicken to Tofu
Savory Fruits that Make a Meal and Sweet Fruits to End It
LESSON 1 Chicken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
LESSON 2 Eggs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111 LESSON 1 Cantaloupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142
LESSON 3 Shrimp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113 LESSON 2 Apples . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144
LESSON 4 Smoked Salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115 LESSON 3 Apricots and Dates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
LESSON 5 Tuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117 LESSON 4 Pears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148
LESSON 6 Chickpeas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119 LESSON 5 Cherries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
LESSON 7 Tofu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121 LESSON 6 Berries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152
LESSON 7 Bananas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154
Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156
About the Author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158
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inTroduCTion
Everybody loves pizza. Your love of pizza brings you to this relayed their challenges and successes. I was gratified
book because you want to conquer the challenge of making to hear that with time they all felt accomplished in their
pizzeria-quality pizza at home. My love of pizza took me to pizza-making goal. As my mother said, “Doing [it] develops
a career of pizza making. For over 20 years, I have owned technique and comfort” with the process and the product.
and operated one of the nation’s top pizza restaurants, Several people tested recipes by having a party with friends
Pizzeria Paradiso, with several locations in the Washington, and family, thus revealing pizza’s communal character and
D.C., metropolitan area. Relying on my many years of pizza- yet another level of pizza’s appeal.
making experience, I created this book to help guide you on At Pizzeria Paradiso, we developed an extensive
your quest to make great-tasting pizza. program that explores another aspect of pizza’s appeal:
Pizzeria Paradiso’s pizza begins with Neapolitan ideas its affinity for beer. Through a constantly changing draft
and crosses the ocean to include American techniques and beer menu as well as upward of 200 bottled beers, we
ingredients. But Pizzeria Paradiso–style pizza isn’t the only offer a vast selection of the world’s greatest and most
pizza in town. That’s why in this book I will teach you to unique beers. Greg Jasgur, Pizzeria Paradiso’s executive
make not only standard pizzas from the Pizzeria Paradiso bar manager, worked with me to fashion beer pairings for
menu but also a variety of pizzas, from Neapolitan to New a number of the pizzas in this book. Called “Greg’s Beer
York, from classic to modern, and from simple to complex. Cooler,” each pairing includes a style of beer appropriate
In eighteenth-century Naples, tomatoes—recently for a given pizza as well as “Greg’s Pick”—his favorite beer
imported from the New World—lost their poisonous to drink with that pie.
reputation and the first tomato-topped pies appeared. No matter how you like it, what you drink with it, or
Soon after, the addition of cheese completed today’s most how pizza changes over time, the fundamental truth of
accepted definition of pizza. As modern pizza circled the pizza remains: It is the people’s food. As a meal in itself that
globe, its transformation continued. The basic ingredi- can easily contain all five food groups (grain, vegetables,
ents remained the same, but it took on local touches. In fruits, proteins, and dairy), pizza ranks at the top of most
America, for example, pizzas got bigger and more heavily people’s list of favorite foods. And the best part is, you can
topped. This book's opening chapters offer variations on eat it with your fingers.
the classic definition of pizza. The later chapters enter the At Pizzeria Paradiso, our “Eat your pizza” slogan has
realm of the unexpected with sauces and toppings that welcomed guests since the day we fired up the pizza oven
demonstrate pizza's transformation, stimulate your imagi- and opened our doors. Now, you can not only “Eat your
nation, and motivate you to experiment. pizza,” but you can “Make your pizza” as well. I hope you
Though pizza is a simple food, it may require a little have fun with the process and enjoy every bite.
effort to develop the level of competency necessary to pro-
—Ruth Gresser
duce the results you desire. I listened as my recipe testers
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