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Laura Wasilowski
TRANSFORM FABRIC
with Improvisational Embroidery
J O Y F U L
stitching
TRANSFORM FABRIC
with Improvisational Embroidery
Laura Wasilowski
Text copyright © 2018 by Laura Wasilowski
Photography and artwork copyright © 2018 by
C&T Publishing, Inc.
Dedication
Publisher: Amy Marson
Creative Director: Gailen Runge To my grandchildren,
Editor: Lynn Koolish
who are always happily in my thoughts while I happily stitch
Technical Editor: Debbie Rodgers
Cover/Book Designer: April Mostek
Production Coordinator: Tim Manibusan
Acknowledgments
Production Editor: Alice Mace Nakanishi
Illustrator: Linda Johnson
Thank you to my mother, Penelope, my first embroidery teacher.
Photo Assistant: Mai Yong Vang
Hand Model: Kristi VIsser And to the crew at C&T Publishing, who always make me look good.
Photography by Diane Pedersen of C&T Publishing, Inc.,
unless otherwise noted
Published by C&T Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 1456,
Lafayette, CA 94549
All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the
copyright hereon may be used in any form or reproduced by
any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including
photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage
and retrieval systems—without written permission from
the publisher. The copyrights on individual artworks
are retained by the artists as noted in Joyful Stitching.
These designs may be used to make items for personal
use only and may not be used for the purpose of personal
profit. Items created to benefit nonprofit groups, or that
will be publicly displayed, must be conspicuously labeled
with the following credit: “Designs copyright © 2018 by
Laura Wasilowski from the book Joyful Stitching from
C&T Publishing, Inc.” Permission for all other purposes
must be requested in writing from C&T Publishing, Inc.
Attention Copy Shops: Please note the following
exception—publisher and author give permission to
photocopy pages 59–62 for personal use only.
Attention Teachers: C&T Publishing, Inc., encourages
you to use this book as a text for teaching. Contact us
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We take great care to ensure that the information
included in our products is accurate and presented in
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Wasilowski, Laura, 1952- author.
Title: Joyful stitching : transform fabric with
improvisational embroidery / Laura Wasilowski.
Description: Lafayette, CA : C&T Publishing, Inc., 2018.
Identifiers: LCCN 2017023202 | ISBN 9781617455674
(soft cover)
Subjects: LCSH: Embroidery--Patterns.
Classification: LCC TT771 .W33 2018 | DDC 746.44--dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017023202
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
CONTENTS
Introduction: Free-Form Embroidery 4
PROJECTS
Materials and Tools for Stitching 5
Fabrics: Wool • Felt • Silk
Threads • Embroidery tools • Needles • Other tools 28 32
Transferring Designs for Embroidery 9
Transfer Methods: Wool • Felt • Silk
Embroidery Stitch Directions 13
Lazy Daisy or
Backstitch 13 Detached Chain Stitch 21 A Tasty Bite of Apple A Rare Songbird
37 41
Blanket Stitch 14 Long-and-Short Stitch 22
Bullion Knot 15 Needle Weaving 23
Chain Stitch 16 Pistil Stitch 24
Love at First Stitch Folk Art Garden
45 48
Couching 17 Running Stitch 25
Cross-Stitch 17 Satin Stitch 25
Ermine Stitch 18 Scattered Seed Stitch 26
Hand of Fortune Yellow House Landscape
Fern Stitch 18 Sheaf Stitch 26
More Ideas for Free-Form Embroidery 53
Fly Stitch 19 Stem Stitch 27
Display Options 57
French Knots 20 Straight Stitch 27
Patterns 59
Herringbone Stitch 20 About the Author 63
INTRODUCTION: FREE-FORM EMBROIDERY
Hand embroidery may seem like a quiet pastime for quiet people in a notion of the hand-made along with
quiet room. But we all know there is a secret, creative power lurking in the heady thrill of improvisation.
each stitch. Hand stitchery transforms fabric from a flat, plain surface
In this book, I share with you
into a world packed with color and texture and joyful pattern. In short,
the joys of free-form embroidery.
hand embroidery brings fabric to life.
There are six projects that begin
with simple shapes destined for
embellishment with a riot of thread.
You’ll learn about the materials
and tools (page 5) needed to make
these designs and about trans-
ferring designs for embroidery
(page 9). You can review step-by-
step embroidery stitch directions
(page 13) as needed. And there are
more ideas for free-form embroidery
(page 53) to inspire you as well.
Free-form embroidery is not
about being precise or meticulous.
You have permission to be loose,
relaxed, and cozy when stitching.
Change the designs, use different
colors, try new stitch combina-
tions. Free-form embroideries
are made just for the pleasure of
stitching and the enjoyment of
placing colorful thread on fabric.
I hope this book challenges you to
invent new ways to mark fabric with
stitches. I hope you discover the
thrill of liberated stitching. And I
hope you find this intimate art form
a creative way to express yourself.
A Rare Songbird by Laura Wasilowski,
So you see, I have high hopes for
7˝ × 9˝ (project instructions, page 32)
you in this joyful adventure.
It is this transformation of fabric by stitch that makes free-form embroi-
And here is the best news: You can
dery my passion. Yes, it is an art form that is compact, portable, uses few
always remove stitches if they aren’t
tools, and is meditative, but it is also a delightful challenge for an artist.
placed where you want them.
Like any art form, you are constantly making decisions about color, line,
pattern, and texture. Free-form embroidery pairs the warm, friendly, Your friend, Laura
4 Joyful Stitching
MATERIALS AND TOOLS FOR STITCHING
Fabrics
Cotton and linen fabrics have long been the go-to fibers for hand
embroidery on tea towels, hankies, and that cross-stitch sampler for a
An Easy Way to Make Wool Felt
friend. The projects in this book can be made on those fabrics. But why
not explore some new fibers? Fabrics such as boiled wool, silk, and felt When starting with a woven or knit
make an attractive base for free-form hand embroidery. Selecting an fabric, the process of shrinking it to
unexpected background fabric elevates the work from that practical tea compact the fibers and “felt” them is
towel look to an art form. called fulling. Make sure you use a woven
or knit fabric made of 100% sheep’s wool.
WOOL
1. Place the fabric in your washing
The best wool fabric for hand embroidery is made of 100% sheep’s wool
machine, fill with very hot water, and
with a woven or knit structure that has been felted. The process of felt-
add mild laundry detergent.
ing condenses the fibers to make a thicker fabric that is easy to grip and
feels substantial in your hands. The 2. Wash the fabric with the agitator on
needle and thread glide effortlessly the fastest setting.
through this bulkier fabric and the
3. Use a cold-water rinse in the machine.
knots are hidden. My favorite ver-
4. Air-dry the fabric or place it in a dryer
sion is boiled wool commonly found
to compact it even more.
in heavy jackets and coats. Nearly
1/4˝ thick, the needle travels through
the fabric layer rather than to the
FELT
back of the fabric at every stitch.
Felt is a nonwoven fabric. The most
Do a few test stitches on your wool fabric before committing to a project. suitable for stitching is made with a
If wool is not felted enough, it feels thin and floppy and will be hard to high percentage of wool combined
handle. Beware of wool that is too tightly felted and compressed, making with some synthetic fibers. This flat,
hand stitching difficult. Occasionally wool fabrics are fuzzy, and their nonreflective fabric comes in a wide
short, wispy wool fibers tangle in the thread and interrupt stitching. Try variety of solid colors and is available
pressing this fuzzy wool with a steam iron to flatten the fabric and make at your local craft shop or online.
it easier to stitch.
Felt has a cozy, folk-art look. It does
Find wool at your local fabric store, online sources, and resale shops for not fray when cut and shapes may be
used clothing. Or how about that old winter coat hiding in your closet— stacked to make compositions. It is
time to dismantle it and turn it into a work of art! easy to stitch through several layers
of felt using larger threads.
Materials and Tools for Stitching 5
Some felt fabrics may pill or SILK
frizz with too much handling, Silk provides a lightweight canvas for stitchery and comes in a wide
so treat them gently. Felt that is variety of colors, weaves, and weights. The recommended weight or
very densely compressed may be momme (unit of measurement for
difficult to stitch. Test the felt for silk, abbreviated “mm”) of silk for
your project before stitching. these projects is at least a 12 mm
or 14 mm with satin or jacquard
weaves.
My preferred silk is a 14 mm
charmeuse that is finely woven
and has a luster or glowing texture, unlike wool or felt which looks matte.
Fusing the silk to wool batting (see Silk Transfer Method, page 11) adds
body to the fabric, making it easier to handle and providing a convenient
hiding spot for knots.
Find silk in the fashion section of your fabric store, online shops, and
through hand-dyers such as me (artfabrik.com). Also, check out resale
shops for silk garments that you can recycle into art.
Threads
While a variety of embroidery The perle cotton threads used in I have a fondness for variegated
threads are available, for this book this book come in several useful perle cotton threads—the color
we are keeping it simple and using sizes: 3, 5, 8, and 12, with the winks in and out adding interest
my favorite thread for stitching— thickest thread being a #3 and the to hand embroidery. Many of the
perle cotton. It is easy to manage finest thread being a #12. They are variegated threads used in these
and has a high twist making it a available in balls or skeins and in projects are my own hand-dyed
sturdy thread with a slight sheen solid or variegated color schemes. threads that contain close color
that catches the eye. Perle cotton Your local needlework shop, fabric changes. These shifts in color
also elevates off the surface of shop, and online shops such as my or value along the length of the
fabric giving your embroidery own (artfabrik.com) carry perle thread create lively stitchery.
dimension and texture. cotton threads. Note that thread
sizes may vary slightly according
to brand.
3
5
8
12
6 Joyful Stitching
Tips: Using Perle Cotton
•
A length of 18˝ or less is good for the threaded needle to let it unwind
stitching. If the thread is too long, it if the thread gets twisted.
tangles and may fray from the fric− •
To end a thread, run the needle
tion of being pulled through fabric.
through a few adjacent stitches
•
Use the thread as a single with one on the back of the work and snip
end of the thread knotted. the thread. Or end the thread by
• making a few shallow backstitches
Match your needle size with your
into the back of the embroidery.
thread size. Use the Needle and
(Don’t let the thread appear on the
Thread Sizes chart (page 8).
top of the piece.) Slide the needle
•
Twist your needle slightly after
and thread through the batting or
every stitch to keep the thread from
back layer of the fabric for 3/4˝ and
twisting back on itself. Or dangle
snip the thread.
How to Store Thread Skeins
1. Use a metal binder ring about 4. Cut the thread skein in half at 5. To remove a single thread for
2˝ in diameter or a smooth the far loop. stitching, gently pull a strand
bracelet. from the center of the skein where
it wraps around the ring. Pull the
2. Open the skein and place one
thread slowly and it won’t tangle.
end loop into the center of the
metal ring.
3. Put the other thread loop on
the other side of the ring and pull
that loop through the first thread
loop to secure it around the ring.
Embroidery Tools
It takes very few tools to create beautiful hand embroidery. You’ll need
scissors that are short and sharp, a pincushion for needles and straight
pins, and a thimble. A thimble will protect your finger for more stitching
time. A thread conditioner, such as Thread Heaven or Thread Magic
(taylorseville.com), is helpful (see Conditioning Threads, page 8). And
don’t forget good lighting and a sturdy needle threader to alleviate
frustration.
Materials and Tools for Stitching 7
Assemble your tools at your work- tip, opt for a better brand from For more informa-
station or make a portable sewing your supplier. I like needles tion on needle
kit for travel. With my trusty travel- from Colonial Needle Company uses, types, and
ing etui (little traveling sewing kit), (colonialneedle.com). Needles sizes, see my Sew-
I can stitch on airplanes, while wait- are your primary tool. It is worth ing Needle Pocket
ing for an appointment, or in a car investing in the best. Guide for Hand
(provided someone else is driving). Stitching (from
C&T Publishing).
Needle and
Tip: Conditioning Threads
Thread Sizes
Thread conditioner is applied to
Other Tools
threads before stitching. It is not
Perle cotton
a wax but a coating that helps embroidery Embroidery Embroidery hoops are not
needle
thread glide more easily through thread necessary for free-form embroidery.
the fabric. It adds to the longevity … use a #5 or But other items needed to create
For #12 thread …
of the thread and keeps it from #7 needle. your projects include:
tangling and knotting.
… use a #3 or •
For #8 thread … Tracing paper
#4 needle.
To use thread conditioner, draw
•
Black marker (such as a Sharpie
the thread through the conditioner … use a #1 or
For #5 thread …
once or twice before threading the #3 needle. Extra Fine Point Permanent
needle. … use a Marker)
For #3 thread …
#1 needle. •
Straight pins
Needles
•
Pinking shears or rotary cutter
Embroidery or crewel needles Matching the size of your embroi-
pinking blade for trimming edges
have a long eye, a long tapered dery thread with the correct size
on felt projects
sharp point, and work on all of embroidery needle makes for
types of fabric. The projects in happier stitching. Thread should Also for the silk designs:
the book require embroidery glide easily through the hole made •
Parchment paper (baking paper)
needles in sizes 1, 3, 4, 5, and by the needle in fabric. If there
or Silicone Release Paper (by
a size 7, which is optional. The is a large gaping hole around the
C&T Publishing)
higher the number, the finer thread, then the needle is too large.
•
Lightweight fusible web (such as
the needle. If it is difficult to draw the thread
Mistyfuse)
through the fabric, then the needle
Please note that embroidery
is too small. • Iron
needles are not all created equal.
You may notice that a #3 in one Use the Needle and Thread Sizes • Pencil with eraser
brand may feel slightly thicker chart (above) and test the needle
•
Fine-tip .03 or .05 micro pens in
than a #3 in another brand. with the thread before beginning
various colors
Also, check for needle quality. your project. Note that some perle
•
If a needle feels rough and has cotton threads may be used in two Lightbox or window
burrs on the needle shaft or different-size needles.
8 Joyful Stitching
TRANSFERRING DESIGNS FOR EMBROIDERY
You don’t need a pattern to create
stitched imagery, but it sure comes in
Design Your Own
handy! Even in free-form embroidery a
drawing or pattern helps determine the Would you like to design your own patterns for free-form embroidery? Here
size of the design. It tells you where to are a few tips:
place the elements in the design and
• Make a sketch of your design adding all the details you like.
how the shapes relate to each other.
• Make another sketch and simplify the drawing so that it has distinct shapes.
The pattern drawings for the projects
These shapes are the boundaries or structure of your design. They tell you
(Patterns, page 59) are very simple,
the placement and size of the basic design elements.
cartoonlike shapes that lend them-
• Remove any finicky details on your second sketch. Designs with large open
selves to free-form stitchery. The
shapes lend themselves to fun stitch combi-
method of transferring these pattern
nations and improvisational stitching.
shapes to fabric (wool, felt, or silk)
depends on the fabric you are using. • Use this second sketch and follow the direc-
tions for transferring the pattern shapes to
Think of these simple patterns as a
your specific fabric.
giant playground with fences. You
can play with your stitches anyway • Refer to your initial sketch when adding fine
you like once you’ve set up a few lines and stitch details to your embroidery.
boundaries. Here’s how to set up
your stitch playground.
Wool Transfer Method
1. Select one of the wool patterns, such as A Tasty Bit 2. Position the tracing paper on the wool and pin it
of Apple (page 59) or A Rare Songbird (page 59), or in place with straight pins. Choose a thread, such as
use your own design. Trace the pattern as is (do not perle cotton #8 or #5, in a color contrasting to the
separate the shapes) onto tracing paper using a black background fabric that won’t be used later to stitch
marker. the outline of the shapes. Follow the black marker
lines and stitch an outline of the design on the wool
using running stitches (page 25).
Transferring Designs for Embroidery 9
