Table Of ContentJELLIES,
JAMS (cid:3)
CHUTNEYS
JELLIES,
JAMS (cid:3)
CHUTNEYS
Preserving
the harvest
THANE PRINCE
London New York Munich
Melbourne Delhi
Food photography by Jean Cazals
Project Editor Diana Craig
Designer Carole Ash at Project 360
Editor Siobhán O’Connor
Location photographer Steve Lee
Food Stylist Katie Rogers
Props Stylist Sue Rowlands
Senior Art Editor Susan Downing
Project Editors Anna Davidson and
Laura Nickoll
US Editor Anja Schmidt
Managing Editor Dawn Henderson
Production Editor Ben Marcus
Production Controller Wendy Penn
First American edition, 2008
Published in the United States by
DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street,
New York, New York 10014
07 08 09 10 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
JD072–2008
Copyright © 2008 Dorling Kindersley Ltd
Text copyright © 2008 Thane Prince
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Contents
6 Introduction
8 Techniques
24 Summer berries
50 Stone fruit
74 Summer vegetables
108 Orchard fruit
130 Flowers and herbs
146 Wild harvest
162 Tropical fruit
180 Chiles and spices
200 Winter citrus
220 Index
224 Acknowledgments
Introduction
What is it about making preserves that so entrances me? It isn’t my sweet tooth, as
my consumption often lags far behind my production levels. Nor is it, with so many
wonderful farmers’ markets and specialty shops around, all selling jams, jellies, and
pickles of every kind, a void on my pantry shelf that needs to be filled. I think the
answer is that standing in my kitchen stirring a pan of steaming fruit or vegetables,
then ladling the resulting mixture into jars, is a truly life-enhancing experience. It
links me to all those cooks of the past for whom preserving nature’s bounty was a
necessity, rather than an indulgence. There is also the pride that one feels when
looking at a jewel-bright row of homemade jellies on the pantry shelf. And there is
joy, too, when offering a dish of brilliant red raspberry jam to a friend or
contributing a jar to the local fundraiser, in being able to say: “This? I made it myself.”
The really good news about making preserves at home is that, while it might at first
appear to be a complex art, it is wonderfully simple once a few basic rules have
been understood. Most recipes are well within the reach of the novice cook. For
me, the first rule is to ask myself: “Is this truly worth preserving?” Although I like to
feel virtuous, I do not wish to have shelf after shelf filled with jars of zucchini
pickles made—let’s be honest—with huge, overblown squash. Whether you buy
from the farmers’ market or harvest from your own vegetable patch, preserve only
the freshest and best of the crop. In the case of chutneys, ketchups, and sauces,
there is a little leeway, as here you can use just-overripe tomatoes, plums, etc.; for
jams, jellies, and pickles, however, only the finest quality fruits and vegetables will do.
Making your own preserves will lend a seasonal quality to your cooking. Beginning
with spring’s elderflowers, you can traverse the year, filling jars with the first fruits
of summer, as well as the last ones of autumn. Even when winter has you in its icy
grip, a simmering pot of pickled dried figs or the vibrancy of cranberry vodka can
cheer a cook’s day.
Another aspect of preserve making that can seem confusing is the terminology.
When is a jam not a jam, but a conserve? In this book, I’ve used the term “jam”
when the fruit tends to break down during cooking, “preserve” when there are
large chunks of fruit, and “conserve” when the fruits remain whole. This is only a
rough guide, and you will no doubt find inconsistencies, as some jams simply cry
out to be called preserves, while occasionally conserve seems to be the name of
choice. Pickles, on the other hand, are more clearly defined. A pickle is a vegetable
or fruit preserve that is essentially raw, preserved in spiced vinegar. Pickles have
nowhere to hide in their clear vinegar-filled jars, so the vegetables used must
always be of the finest quality, without blemish or bruise. Making chutneys is to my
mind one of life’s great pleasures. From chopping the onions and grating the ginger
to simmering the rich and fragrant mixture, making a large pot of chutney can lift
the lowest of spirits. But a word of caution here: don’t leave the pot unattended
while it simmers, as there is a real tendency for the chutney to scorch—often just
at the moment it’s ready. Burnt chutney enhances no one’s life. Finally, flavoring
your own spirits and making your own liqueurs is simplicity itself. Buy good-quality
vodka or gin, and use top-quality fragrant fruits. I store most of these liqueurs in
the freezer, where they develop a pleasant consistency, and the cold enhances the
rather sweet flavor. Serve these homemade liqueurs in your smallest, prettiest
glasses—then sit back to enjoy the compliments.
Whether you are new to the kitchen or an experienced cook, I hope you will find
here recipes that spark memories of meals eaten when young, some hint of
holidays in exotic locations, and new ideas that tempt you into the kitchen, to chop,
grate, and slice your way to the perfect preserve.
