Table Of Contentइंटरनेट मानक
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timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public.
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“The Right to Information, The Right to Live” “Step Out From the Old to the New”
IS 891 (1991): Handloom worsted shirting [TXD 8: Handloom
and Khadi]
“!ान $ एक न’ भारत का +नम-ण”
Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda
““IInnvveenntt aa NNeeww IInnddiiaa UUssiinngg KKnnoowwlleeddggee””
“!ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी च0राया नहB जा सकता हहहहै””ै”
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“Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen”
IS 891:1991
h&m Standard
I I
HANDLObM WORSTED SHIRTING
( First Revision )
tJDC 677.31*064-(l0 83.75)( 54) !
:
@I BIS 1991
BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS
MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADU R SHAH ZAFAR MARG
NEW DELHI 110002
May 1991 Price Group 2
Handloom and Khadi Sectional Committee, TXD 8
FOREWORD
This Indian Standard ( First Revision ) s&w adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft
finalized by the Handloom and Khadi Sectional Committee had been approved by the Textile Division
Council.
This standard was first issued in 1958. It has now been revised in order to overcome certain difficulties
encountered by the handloom industry ix1 its implementation. Following are the important changes carried
out while revising this standard:
a) Only negative tolerances have been specified on ends/dm, picks/dm and mass to ensure minimum
desirable construction. There being no tolerance on positive side on these requirements, it would
provide flexibility to industry to adjust construction of the fabric depending upon market demands.
b) Tolerances on length and width have been adopted from the instructions issued by the Central
Government under the Trade and Merchandise Marks Act 1958 ( 43 qf 1958 ) as given in JVotiJication
No. S. 0. 2937 dated 20 September 1962.
c) For determining the conformity of the cloth to the requirements laid down in this standard, a
provision has been incorporated to allow testing of specimens in prevailing atmospheric conditions.
However, in all cases of disputes, the specimens are to be tested after conditioning in the standard
atmospheric conditions.
d) Provision has been incorporated for agreement between the buyer and the seller with respect to the
permissible number of defects in the cloth.
For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of thi4 standard is complied with, the final
value, observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, in accordance with IS 2 : 1960
‘Rules for rounding off numerical values ( revised )‘. The number of significant places retained in the
rounded off value should be the same as that of the specified value in this standard.
SI 198 : 1991
Indian Standard
HANDLOOM WO&STED SHIRTING
( First Revision )
1 SCOPE 5.3 Dimensions
1.1 This standard prescribes constructional parti- The length and width of the cloth, when deter-
culars and other requirements for handloom mined in accordance with IS 1954 : 1990, shall be
worsted shirting. as agreed to between the buyer and the seller or
1.2 This standard does not specify general as declared by the seller subject to the tolerances
specified in the Government of India, Ministry of
appearance, feel, etc, of the cloth.
Commerce and Industry Notijication No. S. 0. 2937
2 REFERENCES dated 20 September 1962 issued under the Trade
and Merchandise Marks Act J958 ( 43 of 1958 ),
The Indian Standards listed in Annex A are
( see Annex C ).
necessary adjuncts to this standard.
3 ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS FOR 5.4 Sealed Sample
TESTING
If in order to illustrate or specify the indetermi-
Test specimens may be conditioned and tested in
nable characteristics, such as general appearance,
the prevailing atmosphere for determining the
lustre, feel and shade, a sample has been agreed
conformity of the cloth to this standard. However,
upon and sealed, the supply shall be in conformity
in all cases of disputes, the specimens shall be
with the sample in such respects.
conditioned and tested in the standard atmos-
phere as specified in the referred Indian Stan-
The custody of the sealed sample shall be a
dards on test methods.
matter of prior agreement between the buyer and
4 MANUFACTURE the seller.
4.1 Yarn
6 VISUAL INSPECTION
4.1.1 The yarn used in the manufacture of the
cloth shall be spun from 60s top or noil, free from 6.1 The cloth when visually inspected should be
admixture of non-woollen fibre, and shall be such free from the major flaws listed in Annex D.
that the cloth produced complies with the require-
ments of this standard. The warp shall be The number of permissible major flaws per unit
worsted while the weft may be either single or length shall be as agreed to between the buyer
2-ply worsted or single woollen. and the seller.
4.1.2 The approximate count of th e yarn is given 6.2 For details of the flaws mentioned in 6.1,
in Table 1 for guidance. reference may be made to IS 4125 : 1987.
4.2 Cloth
7 MARKING
4.2.1 The cloth shall be in 2/2 twill weave.
7.1 The cloth shall be suitably marked with the
4.2.2 It shall be scoured and free from grease, following information:
soap, filling or any other admixture which would
a) Name of the material,
give it fictitious weight, substance or firmness.
b) Length ( m ) and width ( cm ), and
4.2.3 It shall have a lightly milled finish.
4.3 Dyeing c) Indication of the source of manufacture.
4.3.1 The top, noil, yarn or cloth shall be dyed
7.2 The cloth may also be marked with the
with suitable dyes to colours as agreed to between
Standard Mark.
the buyer and the seller.
5 REQUIREMENTS 8 PACKING
5.1 The cloth shall conform to the requirements
Unless otherwise agreed upon by the buyer and-
specified in Table 1.
the seller, the cloth shall be packed in bales or
5.2 The cloth shall also conform to the require- cases in accordance with the procedure laid
ments specified in Table 2. down in IS 32 : 1971 or IS 741 : 1971.
1
.
IS 891 : 1991
Table 1 Constructional Particulars and Breaking Load Requirements
for Handloom Worsted Shirting
( Clauses4 .1.2 and 5.1 )
l)Approximate Count Ends/dm Picks/dm Mass Breaking Load on
of Yarn 15 X 20 cm Strips
r-------- ~--_-_---7 #------h----_~
Warp Weft Warpway Weftway
(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)
g/ma N N
40 tex X 2 80 tex ( 11s worsted 160 160 270 608 548
( 2122s worsted ) or 24s woollen )
40 t:: x 2
( 2/22s worsted )
Tolerance, - - -5 -5 -5 -5 on average value,
percent and
. -15 on individual
reading
: :
Method of - - IS 1963 1981 IS 1964 1970 IS 1969: 1985
Test or Annex B
1 )For guidance only.
Table 2 Other Requirements for Worsted Sbirting
( Clause 5.2 )
Sl No. Characteristic Requirement Method of Test
(1) (2) (3) (4)
:
9 Relaxation shrinkage, 4 IS 665 1989
percent, Max
ii) PH value of aqueous 5’0 to 7’5 IS 1390 : 1983
extract
iii) Colour fastness:
:
4 Light 4 or better IS 686 1985
or
:
IS 2454 1985
b) Washing, Test 1 : IS 687 : 1979
1) Change in colour 4 or better
2) Staining on fabric 4 or better
lc Perspiration : IS 971 : 1983
1) Change in colour 4 or better
2) Staining on fabric 4 or better
Y SAMPLING determined on the basis of tests carried out on
the samples selected from it.
9.1 Lot
9.3 Unless otherwise agreed, the number of
The quantity of cloth delivered to one buyer pieces to be selected at random for inspection
against one despatch note shall constitute a lot. shall be in accordance with Table 3.
9.2 The conformity of a lot to the various For random selection of samples, IS 4905 : 1968
requirements specified in the standard shall be may be followed.
.’
IS 891 : 1991
%4 Number of Samples and Criteria for Table 3 Sample Size and Permissible
-Conformity Number of Non-conforming Pieces
The number of samples to be drawn and the ( Clauses 9.3 and 9.4 )
criteria for conformity of the material for various
characteristics shall be as follows:
noiretirc for
Characteristics Number of Lot Size Sample Permissible Sub-sample
Size Number of Size
Sam@ es Conformity
Non-confor-
Ends, picks, According to Number of non- ming Pieces
mass, length, co1 2 of Table conforming pieces
(1) (2) (3) (4)
width and vis- 3 shall not exceed
ual inspection the corresponding up ot 25 3 0 2
number given in 26 >, 50 5 0 2
co1 3 of Table 3 51 ,, 150 8 0 3
Relaxation shri- According to All the pieces 151 ,, 300 13 1 3
nkage, #H value co1 4 of Table shall meet the re- 301 ,, 500 20 1 5
colour fastness 3 quirement 501 ), 1 000 32 2 5
and breaking 1001 and above 50 3 8
load
ANNEX A
( esualC 2 )
LIST OF REFERRED INDIAN STANDARDS /
/
SI .oN. Title IS No. Title ____ _
32 : 1971 Code for seaworthy packaging of 1954 : 1990 Methods for determination of
woollen and worsted yarn and length and width of fabrics ( second
cloth ( second revision ) revision )
7
,665 : 1989 Textiles-Determination of dimen- 1963 : 1981 Methods for determination of
sional changes of fabrics contain- threads per unit length in woven
ing wool on soaking in water (jirst fabrics ( second revision )
revision )
1964 : 1970 Methods for determination of
686 : 1985 Methods for determination of weight per square metre and
colour fastness of textile materials
weight per linear metre of fabrics
to daylight (frst revision ) ( jrst revision )
,687 : 1979 Method for determination of 1g69 . 5891
Methods for determination of
colour fastness o f textile materials
breaking load and elongation of
to washing: Test 1 ( second revision )
woven textile fabrics ( second
.741 : 1971 Code for inland packaging of revision )
woollen and worsted yarn and Gloth
2454 : 1985 Methods for determination of
(first revision )
colour fastness of textile materials
971 : 1983 Method for dermination of colour to artificial light ( xenon lamp )
fastness of textile materials to pers- ( jrst revision )
piration ( jirst reviszon )
1390 : 1983 Methods for determination of flH 4125 : 1987 dGelfoescstasr yi n faobf rictse rms( jrstp erretaviinsiionng ) to
value of aqueous extracts of textile
materials (jrst revision ) 4905 : 1968 Methods for random sampling
ANNEX B
( Table 1 )
METHOD FOR DETERMINATION OF MASS OF FABRIC
‘B-l Cut four specimens of 100 mm x 100 mm desiccator and immediately determine their collec-
each from a sample. Condition all the specimens tive mass in a weighing balance to the nearest
-in a desiccator charged with saturated solution of milligram.
‘sodium nitrate at 27 f 2’C for a period of 24
hours. Remove all the specimens from the B-2 Calculate the mass of the fabric in g/ms.
3
SI 199 t l991
ANNEX C
( Clause 5.3 )
EXTRACTS FROM THE GOVERNMENT OF INDIA, MINISTRY OF COMMERCE AND
INDUSTRY ( TRADE AND MERCHANDISE MARKS ) NOTIFICATION
NO. S. 0.2937 DATED 20 SEPTEMBER i962
A trade description of length stamped on worsted, variation in width at any point is not-
woollen and shoddy piece goods - The actual more than 2 percent and on average
length of the piece shall not be less than not more than I.5 percent; and
the stamped length.
ii) In pieces of woollen and shoddy piece
goods, the stamped width shall not be
A trade description of width stamped on worsted,
greater or less than the actual width,
woollen and shoddy piece goods:
provided that the variation in width
i) In pieces of worsted fabric, the stamped at any point is not more than 3 percent
width shall not be greater or less than and on average not more than 2 per-
the actual width, provided that the cent.
ANNEX D
( Clause 6.1 )
LIST OF MAJOR FLAWS
___- 1) One or more ends missing in the body of 10) More than two adjacent ends running para-
the material throughout its length, more llel, broken or missing and extending
than three ends missing at a place and beyond 10 cm.
running over 60 cm, or prominently notice- 11)
Noticeable warp or weft float in the body
able double ends running throughout the
of the fabric.
piece.
12)
2) Undressed snarls noticeable over a length Noticeable oil or other stain in the fabric.
exceeding 5 percent of the length of the 13) Oily weft in the fabric.
piece.
3) Smash definitely rupturing the texture of 14) Prominently noticeable slub.
the fabric. 15) Conspicuous broken pattern.
4) Hole, cut or tear. 16) Gout due to foreign matter, usually lint or
)5 waste, woven into the fabric.
Read marks prominently noticeable over a
length exceeding 5 percent of the piece. 17) Prominent selvedge defect.
6) Defective or damaged selvedge noticeable 13) Significant shading or listing having a
over a length exceeding 5 percent of the gradual change in tone or depth of shade
length of the piece. ( excluding inselvedge ).
7) Skewing of weft.
8) Weft crack or two or more missing picks 19) Coloured flecks.
across the width of the fabric. 20) Blurred or dark patch.
)9 Warp or weft bar due to difference in raw 21) Patchy, streaky or uneven dyeing.
material, count, twist, lustre, colour, shade
22) Dye bar.
or spacing of adjacent groups of yarns
( starting mark ). 23) Fuzzy appearance.
dradnats Mark
The use of the Standard Mark is governed by the provisions of the Bureau of Indian Sfandards
Act, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations made thereunder. The Standard Mark on products
covered by an Indian Standard conveys the assurance that they have been produced to comply
with the requirements of that standard under a well defined system of inspection, testing and
quality control which is devised and supervised by BIS and operated by the producer. Standard
marked products are also continuously checked by BIS for conformity to that standard as a
further safeguard. Details of conditions under which a licence for the use of the Standard Mark
may be granted to manufacturers or producers may be obtained from the Bureau of
Indian Standards.
