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PLANET EARTH
COLLECTOR'S LIBRARY OF THE CIVIL WAR
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CLASSICS OF THE OLD WEST
THE EPIC OF FLIGHT
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This volume is one of o series that explains and demonstrates
how to prepore various types of food, and that offers in each
book on international anthology of great recipes.
~------------------THE
GOOD COOK-----------------
TECHNIQUES & RECIPES
...... ors d'Oeuvre
BY
THE EDITORS OF TIME-LIFE BOOKS
- - - - - ---TIME-LIFE BOOKS/ ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA--- - - ---
Cover: A delicate blend of seafood ond vegetables in o
rich fish sauce is spooned into the crisp puff-pastry
shells known os vol-ou-vent. The shrimp, mussels,
osporogus tips, sweet red peppers ond mushrooms used
to fill the vol-ou-vent were precooked separately, then
heated together in the souce.
Time-Life Books Inc. CHIEF SERIES CONSULTANT the founder of Prospect Books, which specializes
is o wholly owned subsidiary of Richard Olney, on Ameri in scholarly publications about food and cookery.
TIME INCORPORATED
can, has lived and worked Jean Reynolds, who prepared some of the dishes
Founder, Henry R. Luce 1898-1967 for some three decodes in lor the photographs in this volume, is from Son
Editor-in-Chief, Henry Anatole Grunwald France, where he is highly Francisco. She trained as a cook in the kitchens of
President, J. Richard Munro regarded as on authority several of France's great restaurants. Richard Sox,
Chairman of the Soard, Rolph P. Davidson on food and wine. Author who also prepared some of the hors d'oeuvre in
Executive Vice President, Clifford J. Grum of The French Menu Cook this volume, was lor two years Chef-Director of the
CEdhiatoirrmiaal nD, irEexcetcour,t ivReo Clpohm Gmroittveees: James R. Shepley book and of the award lest kitchens lor The International Review of Food
Group Vice President, Books, Joon D. Manley winning Simple French and Wine. He trained in New York and in Paris,
Vice Chairman: Arthur Temple Food, he has also contrib where he served on apprenticeship at the Hotel
uted to numerous gastro Plozo-Athenee. FRANCE: Michel Lemonnier, the co
TIME-LIFE BOOKS INC. nomic magazines in founder and vice president of Les Amities Gostro
Editor, George Constable. Executive Editor, George G. France and the United nomiques lnternotionoles, is a frequent lecturer on
Daniels. Boord of Editors, Dole M. Brown, Thomas H. States, including the influential journals Cuisine et wine and vineyards. GERMANY: Jochen Kuchenbecker
Flaherty Jr., Martin Mann, Philip W. Payne, John Paul Vins de France and La Revue du Vin de france. He trained as a chef, but worked lor 10 years as a
Porter, Gerry Schremp, Gerold Simons, Nokonori Tashiro, has directed cooking courses in France and the food photographer in several European countries
DKiitr evcotno rT: u Tlolemke Snu. zPulkain; nAinsgsi sDtairnetc, tAorr:n oElddw Ca.r dH Bolreoyswh.e All.r t United States and is o member of several distin before opening his owr. restaurant in Homburg.
Director of Administration, David L. Harrison. Director of guished gastronomic and oenologicol societies, in Anne Brokemeier is the co-author of o number of
Operations: Gennaro C. Esposito. Director of Research, cluding L' Acodemie lnternotionole du Vin, La Con cookbooks. ITALY: Massimo Alberini is a well-known
Carolyn L. Sackett; Assistant, Phyllis K. Wise. Director of frerie des Chevaliers du Tostevin and La food writer and journalist, with o particular interest
Photography: Dolores Allen Littles. Production Director: Commonderie du Bontemps de Medoc et des in culinary history. His many books include Storie
Feliciano Mod rid; Assistants: Peter A. lnchouteguiz, Koren Groves. Working in London with the series edito del Pronzo oll'ltoliono, 4000 Anni o Tovolo and
CA.o nMtreoyl eDrsiroenc.t oCr,o pRyo bPerortc Le.s Ysiongu:n Gg;o Ardssoisnta En. t:B Juacmk.e Qs uJ.a lCitoy x; prilaaln sntainffg, hoef thhoiss vboeluemn eb,o asnicdo lhlyo sre ssuppoenrsviibsleed fothre t hfie p1u00b lRisicheettde cStooorikcbheo. oTkHsE aNnETdH EhRisLA rNeDcSi:p Heusg ha pJponesa hr ains
GCAsoasololrocdiwaintaeasyt:o GrD:o aAlndnibneeel r JgB. .;M LAcasSnsiwdstreayen. tnCse: oyCp, eyM liRioco hBoameea lDt tGiiree., cWRtoiicgrk:h i StT.u aAsrarlont w tnaanlt ss.e Tlehcet ioUnn iotef dr eSctiopleess seudbitmiointt eodf Tbhye o Gthoeor dc oCnosuolk Oselvneeyra, l thDeu tacuht hmoar goaf zCinoemsf.o rTtHiEn gU NFIToEoDd SaTnATdE SS: uJmudmitehr
has been revised by the Editors of Time-Life Books Food, received her culinary training in England
President: Corl G. Jaeger. Executive Vice Presidents: John to bring it into complete accord with American cus and in France. In addition to conducting cooking
SAtretovennd iM, Satxewpheelln, DL.a Bvoidir ,J . PWetaelrs Gh.. VBiacern Pesre, sNidiecnhtos:la Gse Boerngteo n, toms and usage. classes, she regularly contributes articles to gas
John L. Conovo, Beatrice T. Dobie, Coral Floumenholt, CHIEF AMERICAN CONSULTANT tronomic magazines.
James L. Mercer, Herbert Sorkin, Poul R. Stewart Carol Cutler is the author of o number of cook
books, including the award-winning The Six-Minute
THE GOOD COOK
Souffle and Other Culinary Delights. During the 12
The original version of this book was created in London lor years she lived in France, she studied at the Cor
Time-Life Books B.V.
European Editor: Kit von Tu lleken; Design Director: Louis don Bleu and the Ecole des Trois Gourmondes,
Klein; Photography Director, Pamela Morke; Planning and with private chefs. She is o member of the
Director: Alon Lothian; Chief of Research: Vanessa Kromer; Cercle des Gourmettes, o long-established French
Chief Sub-Editor: lise Gray; Production Editor, Ellen Brush; food society limited to just 50 members, and is also
Quality Control, Douglas Whitworth o charter member of Les Domes d'Escollier, Wash Correspondents: Elisabeth Kraemer (Bonn); Margot
Hopgood, Dorothy Bacon (london); Susan Jonas, Lucy T.
Stoff lor Hors d'Oeuvre, Series Coordinator: Liz Timothy; ington Chapter. Voulgoris (New York); Mario Vincenzo Aloisi, Josephine du
Head Designer: Rick Bowring; Text Editors: Gillian Boucher, SPECIAL CONSULTA NT Brusle (Paris); Ann Notonson (Rome).
Norman Kolpos; Anthology Editors, Josephine Bacon, Liz Joyce Dodson Piotrowski studied cooking while trav Valuable assistance was also provided by: Jeanne
Clasen; Stoff Writers: Alexandra Corlier, Joy Ferguson, Buys, Jenny Hovinga (Amsterdam); Hans-Heinrich
Ellen Goliard, Mary Harron, Thorn Henvey; Researchers: eling and living around the world. A teacher, chef, Wellmonn, Gertroud Bellon (Homburg); Bono Schmid,
Suod McCoy, Mary-Claire Hailey, Margaret Hall, Deborah caterer, food writer and consultant, she has been Mario Teresa Morenco (Milan); Michele le Boube, Cecile
Litton; Designers: Derek Copsey, Michael Morey, Mary responsible lor many of the step-by-step photo Dogneiz (Paris).
Staples; Sub-Editors: Kathy Eason, Katie Lloyd, Solly Rowland; graphic sequences in this volume.
Design Assistants, Solly Curnock, Cherry Doyle, lon Midson; ~ 1980, 1981 Time-life Books BV
Editorial Deportment: Anetho Besidonne, Pot Boog, Kate PHOTOGRAPHERS ~ 1982 Time-life Books Inc. All r~ghts reserved.
Conn, Beverley Doe, Philip Garner, Aquila Kegon, Lesley Tom Belshaw specializes in food and still-life pho No port of this book moy be reproduced 1n ony form or by ony elec
Kinahan, Debra Lelliott, Lindo Mollet, Debra Rood, Brion tography, undertaking both editorial and advertis ttrro.envioc l odre vmiceecsh aonr icsaysl tmemesa,n ws,1 t1hnoculut dp1nngo rm wforirtmteont epoenr ms1tsosr1aogne fraonmd trhce·
Sombrook, Molly Sutherland, Julio West, Helen Whitehorn ing assignments. publisher, except thot brief possoges moy be quoted for rev1ews
U.S. Stoll lor Hors d'Oeuvre: Editor, Gerry Schremp; Senior A/do Tutino has worked in Milan, New York City first printing. Printed in U.S.A.
REdeisteoar:r cEheller:n BPahrilbliapsro; DFelesmiginnegr;: PEilcletunr eR Eodbiltionrg,; CChhriiesft ine oanf da wWaardssh ilnogrt ohnis, pDh.oCt.o gHrea phhass frreocmei vtheed No enwum Yboerkr MPSucohbrolrisoishlt oeodwn dnsi ,ml Nibuerlatwaryn J edeoirsustesriylby 0u i7ntiW oCn:oI Jbn yo dSo1l.v er Burdett Company,
Schuyler; Writers: Patricio Fanning, Leslie Marshall; Advertising Club.
Researchers, Patricio Kim (techniques). Ann Ready TIME-liFE 1s o trodemork of T1me Incorporated U.S.A.
(anthology). Fron Moshos, Tina Ujloki, Valerie Whitney; INTERNATIONAL CONSULTANTS
Assistant Designer: Peg Schreiber; Copy Coordinators: GREAT BRITAIN: Jane Grigson has written o number of For 1nformotion obout ony T1me·L1fe book, pleose wr~te:
Nancy Berman, Tonne Gibert, Bobbie C. Paradise; Art books about food and has been o cookery corre Reoder Information, Time-life Books
Assistant: Mary L. Orr; Picture Coordinator: Alvin Ferrell; spondent lor the London Observer since 1968. Alan 541 North Foirbonks Court, Ch1cogo, lll1noos 60611
Editorial Assistants: Brenda Harwell, Patricio Whiteford Davidson is the author of several cookbooks and Library of Congress CIP dolo, poge 176.
----------------------CONTENTS----------------------
INTRODUCTION 5 A beneficent beginning I A quartet of
classics I Accompaniments based on stock I From fish to veloute
sauce I Veal stock: A versatile foundation I Achieving a limpid
aspic I A note of color for veloute and white
sauces I Mayonnaise: A rich emulsion
VEGETABLES 13 ! Imaginative ways with garden bounty I Steaming to
2 emphasize fresh flavor I Boiling for tenderness I Vegetable
containers for savory fillings I Packages wrapped in edible
leaves I Baking to blend flavors I Deep frying for textural
contrast I Crisp morsels with lacy batter coatings
POULTRY AND MEAT 27 A light touch with hearty fare I Marinated fowl in wafer-thin
slices I Surprising adaptations of main-course meats I Brains in a
3
golden gratin I Sauced sweetbreads in rings of
rice I Sausages with a subtle stuffing I A smooth mousse of
chicken livers I A trio of mousses in a single dish
FISH AND SHELLFISH 43 Imaginative presentations for delicate foods/ Steps to perfect
fish fillets I Sashimi: An artful offering of uncooked
seafood I Sushi: An accent of tangy rice I Infusing fragrance
6Ll with marinades I Mollusks baked in their shells I Alternative
techniques for frogs' legs I Mousseline: The sublime stuffing
EGGS A range of transmutations I A cloak of
5sparklin g aspic I Savory custard enhanced by
meat I A neat technique for lining a mold I Leafy
greens for textural interest I Baking
individual souffles
CREPE, PASTRY AND BREAD CASES 73 A spectrum of textures and shapes/ Flexible wrappers from a
thin batter I Short crust: The simplest formula I An aromatic
olive-oil pastry I Puff pastry: The finest of casings/ Cutting
and coloring bread cases I Yeast dough to enclose an ample
filling I Brioche miniatures with rounded caps
ANTHOLOGY OF RECIPES 89 Vegetables 90 I Poultry and meat l 07 I Fish
and shellfish 117 I Egg presentations 131 I Crepe,
pastry and bread assemblies
140 I Standard preparations 160
RECIPE INDEX 168
GENERAL INDEX I GLOSSARY 171
RECIPE CREDITS 174
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AND PICTURE CREDITS 176
---------INTRODUCTION---------
c..A
Beneficent Beginning
An hors d'oeuvre ushers in a meal with a flourish and stim ual plates, strung on small skewers or framed by pastry casings.
ulates enthusiasm for what is to follow. Indeed, its very name Vegetables, meats and seafood, smoothly pureed, make pretty
literally, "outside the work"-is inseparable from the idea of a souffies, mousses and mousselines. And sauces can play an
meal as a sequence of courses: It leads to the work proper-a important part in hors d'oeuvre: Their richness may be more
substantial main course and dessert or cheese, or, in more for welcome at the opening of a meal than later on, when the appe
mal meals, a calculated progression of several courses. Being tite has lost its edge.
the initial offering of the occasion, an hors d'oeuvre is ap This book is designed to teach all aspects of hors d'oeuvre
proached with an eager and attentive palate-and hence is es presentation. On the following six pages, the making of sauces,
pecially rewarding for cook and diner alike. stocks and aspics is explained. The primary ingredients used in
The hors d'oeuvre presentations demonstrated in this vol hors d'oeuvre are then dealt with in five chapters. The first
ume do not encompass all first courses. Many meals begin with focuses on vegetables, from those simply steamed or boiled and
dishes that also can be served in larger quantities as main served with complementary sauces to more intricate creations,
courses-salad, pate, soup or pasta, for example; none of these such as little vegetable containers filled with appealing stuff
is shown here. But the range of dishes designed exclusively for ings. A chapter on meats shows how those usually reserved for
first courses is remarkably varied in its own right. Any food can main courses can be offered as hors d'oeuvre if the meats are
provide an enticing hors d'oeuvre if it is properly prepared; marinated or made into tiny rolls, creamy mousses or dainty
vegetables, meats, fish, shellfish and eggs all appear in the sausages. The next chapter is devoted to fish and seafood; it
chapters that follow. All are served in small helpings that do not begins with the elegant fish presentations of Japan-sashimi
sate the appetite, but their most important common feature is a and sushi-and continues with demonstrations of marinated
careful presentation that makes them doubly inviting, both in fish hors d'oeuvre, frogs' legs, and those perennial favorites,
themselves and as heralds of the rest of a meal. oysters and clams. Eggs in various guises-in aspics, custards
and souffies- form the subject of the fourth chapter. And the
Planning for an appealing balance final chapter of the first half of this volume addresses the prepa
The food chosen for an hors d'oeuvre and the way that food is ration of various types of casings used in the presentation of
prepared must always be considered in the context of the whole hors d'oeuvre-for example, crepes, pastry casings ranging
meal. In general, a pleasing contrast is the rule. If your main from simple short-crust shells to vol-au-vent made from airy
course is a richly sauced dish, the hors d'oeuvre should be sim puff-pastry dough and bread casings such as brioche.
ple-slender spring asparagus, perhaps, garnished with noth The second half of the book consists of an anthology of the
ing more than a little lemon juice. If your main course is some best published hors d'oeuvre recipes. They will serve not only as
thing less elaborate, such as a roast, you can begin the meal by prescriptions for particular dishes, but also as bases for your
serving rich ingredients-brains, for instance-swathed in own improvisations.
creamy sauces. If your main course is a complicated assortment
of meats and vegetables, serve an hors d'oeuvre that emphasizes An accompaniment of wine
a single taste and has a homogeneous texture; a souffie or Just as a robustly flavored roast is often served after a subtle
mousse would be a logical choice. A hot hors d'oeuvre happily hors d'oeuvre, red wine normally follows white in the course ofa
precedes a cold main course; a hot main course is set in pleasing formal meal. That rule coincides neatly with the requirements
relief by a cold hors d'oeuvre. The same sort of considerations of of hors d'oeuvre, most of which are best enjoyed with a white
polarity apply to texture: If one course is crisp and chewy, the wine. White wine complements vegetables, white meat and fish,
other should be soft and unctuous. and sauces enriched with cream or egg; red wine, with its tannic
The art of presenting hors d'oeuvre depends on an under edge, would seem harsh in such company. But an exception is
standing of visual balance, proportion and appeal. Ingredients made for an hors d'oeuvre based on red meat or coated with a red
as elemental as fillets offish-and even ingredients as luxuri wine sauce, which may be more agreeably accompanied by a
ous as sweetbreads-will look mean and dull if they are sur light-bodied red wine. Explore the wine possibilities with the
rounded by a large expanse of empty plate. But these foods same spirit of adventure that inspires you as you contrive the
acquire new charm when they are artfully arranged on individ- hors d'oeuvre, and many pleasant discoveries will reward you.
5
INTRODUCTION
A Quartet of Classics
Among the sauces used to garnish simple
hors d'oeuvre and unite the elements of
White Sauce: Milk Thickened by a Roux
complex ones are four classic prepara
tions: white sauce, tomato sauce, hollan
daise sauce and white butter sauce (rec
ipes, page 162). In each case, the secret of
success lies in careful, gentle cooking.
A white sauce (right, top) is nothing
more than a flour-and-butter paste- a
roux- that is thinned with milk, then
simmered long enough to remove any
taste of raw flour. This basic sauce can be
made in advance and refrigerated for as
long as two days, then reheated. It may
be enriched with additional butter or
with cream or egg yolks, and flavored
with grated cheese or with chopped or pu
reed vegetables such as duxelles (page
22) or tomatoes.
A tomato sauce (opposite, top) consists l Making a roux. Melt butter over 2 Cooking. Add milk-about 2 cups [1f2
of tomatoes gently cooked with season low heat. Add an equal quantity of flour, liter] for 2 tablespoons [30 mi.] of flour
ings to soften their flesh. For a smooth and stir the butter and flour together increase the heat and whisk until the
with a whisk until the mixture is smooth. sauce boils. Reduce the heat so that the
texture, the cooked sauce is pureed, then
Cook the roux gently for two minutes, sauce barely simmers; cook, uncovered,
simmered again to reduce it to the re
stirring constantly. for 40 minutes. It should have the
quired thickness. Like white sauce, to
consistency of cream- or be thicker if
mato sauce can be made in advance and you plan to use the sauce in a stuffing.
refrigerated; it will keep for four or five
days. It can be enriched with cream; fla
vorings can include garlic and onions as
well as dill, basil, chives or oregano.
Hollandaise sauce (right, bottom) is an Hollandaise Sauce: Blending Egg Yolks and Butter
emulsion formed by inducing warm egg
yolks to bind with butter over heat. It
requires a delicate hand: The yolks can
only bind with small amounts ofbutter at
a time, and if they become too hot, they
will curdle. To make them less sensitive
to heat, the yolks should be thinned with
cold water before butter is added; the but
ter itself should be cold and stirred in
very gradually. And the operation must
be performed over the low heat of a dou
ble boiler. Hollandaise is best served as
soon as it is made, but it can be left over
warm water for as long as an hour.
White butter sauce (opposite, bottom)
is another delicate preparation. Butter is
whisked into an acidic liquid- here, a l Adding butter. Put egg yolks in the 2 Adding lemon juice. When the egg
mixture of white wine and vinegar, fla top of a double boiler or in a stainless mixture has absorbed the butter, add
vored with shallots- so that the butter steel bowl that has been placed over more cubes and continue whisking. Add
forms a creamy emulsion with the acid the rim of a pot half-filled with barely the remaining butter-in all, about
rather than melting to oil. Like hollan simmering water. Reduce the heat to 4 tablespoons [60 mi.] for each yolk-a
low. Add a tablespoon [15 mi.) of cold few cubes at a time, whisking as they are
daise sauce, white butter sauce should
water to the yolks and whisk them until absorbed. When the sauce is thick and
be cooked as gently as possible. It must
they are smooth. Add a few cubes of cold creamy, after about l 0 minutes, season
be served the moment it is made to pre
butter and continue whisking. and pour in strained fresh lemon juice.
vent separation.
6
Tomato Sauce: An Herb-scented Puree
l Seasoning tomatoes. Chop onions 2 Pureeing the tomatoes. Set a 3 Reducing the puree. Cook the
fine and saute them in a little oil in an sieve that has nylon or stainless-steel tomato puree, uncovered, over low heat
enameled, stainless-steel or tin-lined mesh over a large bowl. Use a pestle for 20 to 30 minutes, until it reduces to
copper pan until soft. Add quartered to push the tomato flesh through the the consistency you prefer. To prevent
tomatoes, salt, a bay leaf, thyme and sieve. Discard the seeds and skins, sticking, stir it frequently-especially
lightly crushed garlic cloves to the and the herbs that remain in the sieve. toward the end of the cooking time.
onions. Stirring occasionally, cook the Pour the puree back into the pan. Season the sauce with pepper and, if
mixture over low heat until the tomatoes you wish, add chopped fresh herbs, such
disintegrate-20 to 30 minutes. as basil or parsley.
White Butter Sauce: A Tingling Transformation
l Preparing the base. Pour equal 2 Adding butter. Remove the pan 3 Finishing the sauce. Whisking
amounts of white wine vinegar and white from the heat and allow the contents to constantly, continue adding butter a
wine into a nonreactive pan. Set the cool for a few seconds. Place a heat- handful at a time until the sauce has
pan over low heat. Add finely chopped diffusing pad over low heat and set the the consistency of mayonnaise. Take the
shallots to the combined liquids. Add pan on it. Grind in some pepper. Add pan off the heat just as the last butter
a little salt. Let the mixture simmer until the a few cubes of cold butter and whisk cubes are melting, but whisk for a few
liquid has almost disappeared-this vigorously. Add more butter when the seconds more. Serve the sauce as
will take 15 minutes or more. first batch of cubes begins to soften, soon as you have finished preparing it.
leaving more space for whisking.
7
