History of Men's Accessories: A Short Guide for Men About Town

298 Pages·2011·3.1 MB·English

by  Nicholas Storey

Edwardian Florin. Photograph by courtesy of Chard (1964) Lid.
This book is dedicated to True Britannia and to the action and the Spirit of the
Phoenix.
If the red slayer think he slays,
Or if the slain think he is slain,
They know not well the subtle ways
I keep, and pass, and turn again.
From ‘Brahma’ by Ralph Waldo Emerson
First Published in Great Britain in 2011 by
Remember When
an imprint of
Pen & Sword Books Ltd
47 Church Street
Barnsley
South Yorkshire
S70 2AS
Copyright © Nicholas Storey 2011
ISBN 978 1 8446 811 50
ePub ISBN: 9781848849921
PRC ISBN: 9781848849938
The right of Nicholas Storey to be identified as Author of this Work
has been asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright, Designs
and Patents Act 1988.
A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including photocopying,
recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without
permission from the Publisher in writing.
Typeset in 11/13pt Baskerville by
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Contents
Acknowledgements and Permissions
Introduction
Chapter 1 Grooming and Care
Chapter 2 Colognes and Scents
Chapter 3 Dressing Accessories
Chapter 4 Some Fine Drinks and Sweets
Chapter 5 Matching Food and Drink
Chapter 6 Smoking and Snuff
Chapter 7 A Selection of Venues
Chapter 8 Some Interesting Points of Conduct and Some Reflections
Chapter 9 Gifts for Her
Chapter 10 An Anglo-American Dictionary of Sartorial Terms
Chapter 11 Thoughts of Home from Rio de Janeiro
Bibliography
Index
Acknowledgements and Permissions
I
am immensely grateful for the generous help and advice on the draft chapters
of this book from experts in the fields that I have covered. In chapter order, as
follows:
For reading and advising on Chapter 2 (Colognes and Scents), except the
notes on individual colognes (for which I take responsibility), I thank John
Bodenham, Chairman and family member of J Floris, as well as for use of the
illustration that appears in plate 6.
In relation to Chapter 3 (Dressing Accessories), I thank David Hober of Sam
Hober for discussing the production (by spinning and weaving) of spider silk;
Angus Cundey, Chairman and Joint Managing director of henry Poole, for the
firm’s file on the origin of the dinner jacket/tuxedo; the writer James Sherwood
in relation to these records, and Lord Dupplin for information about his
ancestor’s role in the origination and adoption of the dinner jacket; as well as
Oriole Cullen, of the costume department of the Victoria & Albert Museum, and
‘Sator’ founder of www.cutterandtailor.com, for several useful references (and
‘Sator’ for plate 12, the original by JP Thornton). For reading and advising on
that part of this chapter dealing with the firm of Charles Frodsham & Co, I thank
Richard Stenning of Charles Frodsham & Co as well as for the illustration in
plate 15. I thank Amaya Cerdeirina, of Penfriend, for reading and advising on
writing instruments; I thank Bluemantle Pursuivant of HM College of Arms for
reading and advising on the granting and bearing of arms in England, Wales,
Northern Ireland and the British Commonwealth; and I thank Mr BG Hamilton
in respect of the granting and bearing of Feudal Baronial arms in Scotland. I also
thank Richard Edgecliffe-Johnson, Chairman of WS Foster & Son and Henry
Maxwell, for reading and advising on the rest of the chapter as well as for the
illustration in plate 7.
For reading and advising on drinks in Chapter 4, I thank Alessandro Palazzi,
Bar Manager of Dukes Hotel, St James’s; for reading and advising on sweets I
thank Pat Stewart of Maynards Sweets; for reading and advising on tea and
coffee I thank Dr Andrea Tanner, Archivist, of Fortnum & Mason.
For reading and advising on Chapter 5 (Matching Food and Drink) and for
the photograph in plate 24, I thank Laurence Mann, gourmet, devoted oenophile
and, despite the consequential extra weight, an ardent and accomplished
bicyclist.
For reading and advising on Chapter 6 in relation to tobacco pipes and for
the chart in plate 20, I thank Mr Moty Ezrati, Managing Director of the James
Upshall Pipe Company. I thank Simon Chase of Hunters & Frankau for reading
and advising on that part of the chapter dealing with cigars and for the
illustrations in plates 22 and 23 respectively; I thank Christopher J Snowden,
author of the acclaimed Velvet Glove, Iron Fist: A History of Anti-Smoking for
reading and advising on those parts in this chapter dealing with a short history of
tobacco and on cigarettes; and I thank Dave Atkin, mill manager and snuff
blender, Carol Walker and Mr JR Archdale (family member and owner) of
Wilsons of Sharrow for reading and advising on snuff and for the illustrations in
plates 27 and 28. I also thank Anne Bradley, Archivist of the Bristol Records
Office, for locating the records of Fribourg & Treyer.
For certain information about the Oriental Club in Chapter 7, I thank Maggie
Cook of the club.
I also thank, for looking over and commenting on the draft, Michael Alden,
founder of the website the London Lounge (whose comments on my first book
of this kind inspired this one) and I thank friends on the London Lounge for their
knowledge freely shared. Also for reading over the draft and their helpful
comments I thank Dr Marcelo de Araujo of Laranjeiras, Rio de Janeiro, Dr
Julian Critchlow and Chikashi Miyamoto.
This book would not have been the same without this generous help and
advice but, for any remaining errors, I alone am responsible. Moreover, no one
who has rendered help and advice should, necessarily, be taken to agree with any
of the opinions (political or otherwise) that I voice.
For kind permission to use other illustrations, in plate order, I thank the
following:
John Chard of Chard (1964) Ltd for the picture of Britannia standing on the
Florin in the dedication, deriving from the original engraving of GW De Saulles,
Engraver to the Royal Mint.
Barry Klein and Paul Chessell of Taylor of Old Bond Street for the
illustrations that appear in plates 1 to 5 inclusive.
Luke Eyres for the illustration in plate 8.
Kenneth Lim for the illustrations in plates 9 and 10, taken by arrangement
with Mr Rowley and with the kind permission of Sarah Webster of Budd shirt-
makers.
Janet Taylor of hatter James Lock & Co for the illustration in plate 11.
Rowland Lowe-MacKenzie, formerly of Turnbull & Asser, for the image of
the smoking jacket on the cover and the illustration in plate 14.
J Delage for the illustration in plate 16.
James Smith & Sons for the illustration in plate 17.
Liz Johnson for the illustration in plate 18.
David Nathan-Maister of oxygenee.com for the illustration in plate 19.
C Paul Taylor for the illustration in plate 21.
Dmitry Alexandrov of RomanovRussia.com for the illustration in plate 25.
Sophie Wootton of Bentley & Skinner (Bond Street Jewellers) Ltd for the
illustrations in plates 26 and 33.
Nikki Share and Jill James, Marketing Director of Genting UK on behalf of
Crockford’s Club, for the illustration in plate 29.
My father, for help with the illustrations in plate 13 (original photograph by
Lallie Charles), plate 30 (the cartoon originally from Pierce Egan in Life in
London: Or, the Day and Night Scenes of Jerry Hawthorne and his Elegant
Friend Corinthian Tom) and plate 31 (Brummell at Almack’s, the cartoon
originally by Grego).
Kieran McCarthy of Wartski, London, for the illustration in plate 32. This
illustration, as well as those in plates 11 and 30, have also been used on the
cover of this book, and I extent my thanks to those who allowed their use.
I thank my daughter, Gyvania, for her thoughts on factors relevant in making
choices of scent as well as for use of her expression ‘scents of security’ in
relation to the trigger effect of fragrances.
I thank as well Andy Gilchrist, ‘Sator’, and friends and colleagues on their
internet sites (separately listed).
I acknowledge the usefulness of information to be found on the internet sites
of some of the firms that I cover. I also thank Lisa Hooson, Commissioning
Editor, Jill Morris, Copy Editor, Helen Vodden, in production, and the whole
team at Remember When.
Finally, there is no directory of firms’ addresses and contact details as this
too quickly dates. Most of the firms have websites under their own names and
those that do not are in the telephone directories.
Nicholas Storey, Estado do Rio de Janeiro, Brasil