Handwoven - September 2022

84 Pages·2022·63.8 MB·English

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Arizona PORTLAND FIBER GALLERY Pennsylvania SUSAN’S FIBER SHOP
& WEAVING STUDIO Columbus
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[phone] www.portfiber.com 717-212-9022 [email protected]
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Tel: [phone] [email protected] Ipswich [email protected]
or: [phone] [phone] GATHER TEXTILES
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[email protected] Westfield [email protected] 780-777-5568
[phone]
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[email protected]
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St. Charles [phone] Virginia Wolfville
[phone]
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[email protected]
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C o n te n t s
September/October 2022, Volume XLIII, Number 4
FEATURES
14 30
Best Practices: Weaving, Dyeing, and
Interpreting Drafts Sewing My Wedding Dress
SUSAN BATEMAN AND MELISSA PARSONS KELLY WALSH
Drafts are a wonderful method of relating a large Although Kelly hadn’t always dreamed of
amount of information in a relatively small space, making her own wedding dress, when the time
but to avoid confusion, you need to know how to came to plan her wedding, she decided that
read them. Susan and Melissa have accumulated having a one-of-a-kind special dress of her
many years of experience in teaching weaving, own design would make the day even more
and they know their way around a draft. memorable for her.
19 34
N otes from the Fell: Cross-Continent Collaboration
Avoiding Treadling Errors
ELLEN THOMAS AND CHRISTINE
CARRELL LIVINGSTON
TOM KNISELY
What should you do when you weave fabric
Making a treadling error is never fun, so it’s a good
without a plan in mind? Follow Ellen’s lead and
idea to have strategies to keep yourself on track.
ask a stranger to sew it into something! Luckily,
Tom has developed some of his own methods that
Ellen found a kindred soul in Christine, who
you may want to try the next time you are weaving
appreciates handwovens and knows how to
something other than plain weave.
sew with them.
22
Idea Gallery: 72
Yarn Lab: An Array of
A Trio of Scrappy Projects
Possibilities from Gist Yarn
SUSAN E. HORTON WITH CHELSEA FREMMING,
CHRISTINE JABLONSKI
CATHY THORVALDSEN, AND REBECCA FOX
Array wool yarn was created as a tapestry yarn,
Not all of us are ready for the big time when it
but its sturdy construction and wide-ranging
comes to sewing with handwovens. Try one of
colorways seemed to say it could also be used for
these three simple projects that uses remnants
other types of weaving. Christine put Array on her
from projects past to prepare yourself for
multi-shaft loom and was pleased with how it
tackling more complex projects using
performed in a variety of weave structures.
handwoven yardage.
27
Weave Your New Favorite Sweater
DARYL LANCASTER
Realizing that her go-to comfy sweater was on its
last legs, Daryl decided to weave fabric for a comfy
sweater jacket to take its place. Follow her advice
from fabric choice through garment finishing.
DEPARTMENTS
4
From the Editor
6
Letters
PROJECTS
6
Project Index
38 55
Meta Weave Jacket On-the-Go Bag 8
Goods: Favorite Finds
ELISABETH HILL YVONNE ELLSWORTH
9
Media Picks
42 58
Stormy Days Jacket Bespoke Espadrilles 12
Stepping Up:
ANNETTE SWAN SCHIPF CARLY JAYNE
Devon Weavers Workshop
46 60 KAY BALMFORTH
Harvest Coat Redux Gingham Aprons
76
DOROTHY TUTHILL BARBARA MITCHELL Reader’s Guide
Project Directory
50 64
Rustic Elements Finnweave Pillows
Suppliers
PEG MATHEWS CLAUDIA TOKOLA
Whipstitch Instructions
60 52 68 80
Daisy Plaid Totes Houndstooth Jumper Dress Endnotes
TRACY KAESTNER RICHARD STEWART JANE SHEETZ
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 HANDWOVEN 3
One of my college friends used to claim that she
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022, Volume XLIII Number 4
R didn’t trust anyone who got along with their
O
T
I parents in junior high. She may or may not have
D
E
E been joking—she was also the person who said you EDITORIAL
H
T can’t really diet after you’ve eaten a donut for break- EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Anne Merrow
M
O fast. Getting along with my parents aside, I think of EDITOR Susan E. Horton
R
F ASSOCIATE EDITOR Christina Garton
junior high as when I was formally exposed to sewing
MANAGING EDITOR Laura Rintala
and weaving. Like most girls of that time, I studied home economics as
PROJECT EDITOR Angela K. Schneider
part of the curriculum. During one semester, we learned to sew, and dur- TECHNICAL EDITORS Rona Aspholm, Deanna Deeds, Trish
Faubion, Greta Holmstrom, Merriel Miller, Anita Osterhaug,
ing the other semester, we learned about nutrition and how to cook. The
Bettie Zakon-Anderson
subjects of sewing and cooking weren’t fully foreign to me thanks to my EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Katrina King
mother, who was an accomplished sewist and good cook. She made many COPY EDITOR Katie Bright
of my sisters’ and my dresses, and we, in turn, were adept at making sim- PROOFREADER Deirdre Carter
ple sewn items. She also taught us how to cook, which, when left to our CREATIVE
own devices, generally meant chocolate chip cookies and brownies— ART DIRECTOR Charlene Tiedemann
PRODUCTION DESIGNER Mark Dobroth
nutrition not being in our field of interest.
DESIGNER Samantha Wranosky
Where my school life diverged from that of my classmates was in art
PHOTOGRAPHY Matt Graves, Julia Vandenoever
class. Our art teacher had four-shaft table looms in the back of the room, ILLUSTRATIONS Missy Shepler
and if we were interested and had finished our art assignments, we could PHOTOSTYLING Tina Gill
weave. After hearing that, I made a point to finish quickly and chose a H AIR & MAKEUP Jess Shinyeda
loom threaded to weave honeysuckle twill from a Mary Meigs Atwater
draft. The weft was nothing special, a dark brown something, but I was
able to weave a beautiful (perhaps only to me!) runner. That runner is long
gone, but to this day, I have a love of honeysuckle twill. Many years passed
before I wove again, but that little seed planted in eighth grade stayed with
me and prompted me to enroll in a weaving course 20 years later. FOUNDERS Linda Ligon, Anne Merrow, John P. Bolton
What I haven’t done much of, and what I applaud every project author in PUBLISHER John P. Bolton
this issue for, is sewing using handwoven fabric. It can be daunting to put DIRECTOR OF MEDIA SALES & BRAND PARTNERSHIPS Julie Macdonald
DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Haydn Strauss
scissors to cloth you have woven. I know this because I’m among the ranks
DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL CONTENT & STRATEGY Tiffany Warble
of weavers with yardage folded in their closet for “someday.” Perhaps with
DIRECTOR OF EVENTS & CUSTOMER SUCCESS Rachel Martin
this issue, someday is here, and together we can join our fellow weavers
who have faced their fears and sewn with the fabric they wove.
Handwoven® (print ISSN 0198-8212; online ISSN 2381-2303) is published
bi-monthly, except July/August, with a total of 5 issues by Long Thread
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2022 2023
Architectural Details
Subscribers: For subscription information, call [phone], email
Exploring the Ifs Wool and Wool Blends
Many weavers see pattern [email protected], or visit handwovenmagazine.com.
Many aspects of weaving are Weavers love wool for many Please allow six weeks for processing address changes.
everywhere. Without trying,
clear-cut, but there is still room reasons: it’s warm; it takes dye
they notice brickwork, windows Shops: If you are interested in carrying this magazine in your store, email
to play. This issue will look at beautifully but also comes in Michaela Kimbrough at [email protected].
in skyscrapers, shadows of col-
the “as ifs” and “what ifs” of many natural colors; and last, Contact us: For questions about purchases made on the website, call
umns, and cornice details. This
[phone] or email [email protected].
weaving. “As ifs” are those but surely not least, it’s forgiv-
issue will include weaving that
times when a weaver decides ing on the loom, making it a For advertising information, call Julie Macdonald at [phone]
mimics the physical structures
ext. 705, or email [email protected].
to weave a threading using great fiber for beginners. Wool
around us.
another structure’s treadling, blends have many of the same For editorial inquiries, email [email protected].
and “what ifs” are when a characteristics and add a few of
VISIT US ON THE WEB
weaver decides to throw cau- their own.
longthreadmedia.com
tion to the wind and experiment.
handwovenmagazine.com
44 HANDWOVEN handwovenmagazine.com
The new generation
Spring II
Exactly what you need.
(cid:176)(cid:176)(cid:176)(cid:142)(cid:122)(cid:128)(cid:169)(cid:90)(cid:164)(cid:142)(cid:77)(cid:128)(cid:123)
(cid:53)(cid:128)(cid:169)(cid:3)(cid:77)(cid:56)(cid:125)(cid:3)(cid:101)(cid:125)(cid:84)(cid:3)(cid:123)(cid:128)(cid:154)(cid:90)(cid:3)(cid:115)(cid:125)(cid:100)(cid:128)(cid:154)(cid:123)(cid:56)(cid:164)(cid:115)(cid:128)(cid:125)(cid:3)(cid:56)(cid:70)(cid:128)(cid:169)(cid:164)(cid:3)(cid:128)(cid:169)(cid:154)(cid:3)(cid:137)(cid:154)(cid:128)(cid:84)(cid:169)(cid:77)(cid:164)(cid:157)(cid:3)(cid:56)(cid:125)(cid:84)(cid:3)
(cid:84)(cid:90)(cid:56)(cid:122)(cid:90)(cid:154)(cid:157)(cid:3)(cid:128)(cid:125)(cid:3)(cid:128)(cid:169)(cid:154)(cid:3)(cid:176)(cid:90)(cid:70)(cid:157)(cid:115)(cid:164)(cid:90)(cid:81)(cid:3)(cid:176)(cid:176)(cid:176)(cid:142)(cid:122)(cid:128)(cid:169)(cid:90)(cid:164)(cid:142)(cid:77)(cid:128)(cid:123)
Letters
S Stories, tips, tricks, and questions
R
E from Handwoven readers
T
T
E
L
An Inspiring Vacation
I have enjoyed your magazine for
over 20 years. I was inspired by
Project Index
Daryl Lancaster’s article “Using
Color Forecast Palettes for Warp
Stripes” in the March/April 2011
issue of Handwoven and by a trip
to the southwestern United
States. Our trip took us to the
y
e
Grand Canyon, the Vermilion r
f
af
Cliffs, Bryce Canyon, and Zion C
c
M
National Park. It was the first n
e
week in March 2020, and we had e Meta Weave Jacket Stormy Days Jacket
little internet access, so we did y Eil pages 38–41 pages 42–44
b
not know about the upcoming to
o
h
COVID-19 pandemic. Oh, were P
Eileen’s beautiful scarf with the
we grateful to take that trip!
postcard and Handwoven article
I decided to weave a scarf in that inspired it
memory of that trip. I used the
inspiration of the Handwoven
article and the vast, amazing March/April 2022 issue themed
Harvest Coat Redux Rustic Elements
views from the trip. The result is Destination Inspiration!
pages 46–48 pages 50–51
in the enclosed picture. Thank you for an inspirational
I was reminded of this scarf magazine. I’m off to weave!
when I received my recent Eileen McCaffrey
Daisy Plaid Totes On-the-Go Bag
pages 52–54 pages 55–57
Pleased with Palaka
The minute I saw the article and
pattern for Kate Lange-McKib-
ben’s canvas weave inspired by
Hawaiian palaka cloth (Handwo-
r
e ven, May/June 2021), I knew I had
k
c
De to weave it. Not only is the weave
a
c design intriguing but the histori- Bespoke Espadrilles Gingham Aprons
c
e pages 58–59 pages 60–62
b cal aspect drew me in. I soon
e
R
of realized a table runner just
y
s wasn’t enough. I wove 6 yards
e
t
ur and then found a men’s shirt pat-
o
c
o tern for my son. I am thrilled
t
o
h with how it turned out!
P
Rebecca’s son in his handwoven Rebecca Decker
palaka-inspired shirt
Finnweave Pillows Houndstooth Jumper Dress
pages 64–66 pages 68–70
66 HANDWOVEN handwovenmagazine.com