Table Of ContentHandbook of Value Addition
Processes for Fabrics
B. Purushothama
W
OODHEAD PUBLISHING INDIA PVT LTD
New Delhi, India
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First published 2018, Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
© Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd., 2018
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Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. ISBN: 978-93-85059-44-5
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Contents
Preface xxiii
1 Value addition processes and pretreatment 1
1.1 Various value additions done on fabrics 1
1.1.1 Grey fabric inspection 4
1.1.2 B atching 5
1.1.3 Stitching 6
1.1.4 B rushing 6
1.1.5 Shearing/cropping 6
1.1.6 Singeing 6
1.1.7 Desizing 6
1.1.8 Scouring 6
1.1.9 Souring 6
1.1.10 B leaching 6
1.1.11 Mercerizing 7
1.1.12 Dyeing 7
1.1.13 Printing 7
1.1.14 Finishing 8
1.2 Pretreatment 8
1.3 Machinery for textile value addition processes 9
2 Singeing and desizing of fabrics 11
2.1 I ntroduction 11
2.2 Purpose of singeing the fabrics 14
vi Contents
2.3 Purpose of desizing 14
2.4 What singeing should and should not do? 15
2.4.1 S hould do 15
2.4.2 Should not do 15
2.5 W hat desizing should and should not do? 15
2.5.1 S hould do 15
2.5.2 Should not do 15
2.6 G eneral activities in singeing and desizing of fabrics 16
2.7 Operating instructions for operating a combined gas
singeing and desizing machine. (example—Osthoff
singeing cum desizing machine) 18
2.8 Precautions to be taken for singeing and desizing 20
2.9 C ontrol points and checkpoints 20
2.9.1 C ontrol points 20
2.9.2 Checkpoints 21
2.10 N ormal problems in singeing and desizing of fabrics 22
2.11 Dos and don’ts for singeing and desizing of fabrics 23
2.11.1 Dos 23
2.11.2 D on’ts 24
2.12 Responsibilities and authorities of supervisor in
singeing and desizing 25
2.12.1 Responsibilities 25
2.12.2 Authorities 25
3 Scouring and washing 27
3.1 Purpose of scouring 27
3.2 Kier boiling 27
3.2.1 W hat kier boiling should and should not do? 29
3.2.2 G eneral activities in kier boiling 30
3.2.3 Knowledge required for kier boiling 31
Contents vii
3.2.4 S ignifi cance of different steps in kier boiling cycle 31
3.2.5 Precautions to be taken for kier boiling 31
3.2.6 Control points and checkpoints for kier boiling 32
3.2.7 Normal problems in kier boiling 34
3.2.8 Dos and don’ts for kier boiling 35
3.2.9 R esponsibilities and authorities of
supervisor in kier boiling 36
3.3 Continuous scouring using J-box 37
3.3.1 J -box 37
3.4 B leaching 40
3.5 W ashing 41
3.5.1 R ope washing machine 42
3.5.2 Open-width continuous washing machine 44
3.5.3 Horizontal washing machines 45
4 Mercerizing of fabrics 47
4.1 Mercerization purpose and systems 47
4.2 Chain mercerizing using caustic soda 48
4.2.1 What chain mercerization should and should not do? 49
4.2.2 Quality of mercerizing 49
4.2.3 General activities in fabric mercerizing
using caustic soda 50
4.2.4 Typical operating procedure of a chain
mercerizing machine using caustic soda 51
4.2.5 Precautions to be taken for mercerizing
using caustic soda 58
4.2.6 Control points and checkpoints in chain
mercerizing using caustic soda 58
4.2.7 Dos and don’ts for chain mercerizing using
caustic soda 61
4.3 L iquid ammonia (LA) mercerizing of cellulose fi bres 62
viii Contents
4.3.1 Benefi ts of LA mercerizing 63
4.3.2 Standard operating procedure for LA mercerizing 66
4.3.3 Dos and Don’ts for LA mercerizing 67
4.3.4 N ormal problems in fabric mercerizing 68
4.4 Responsibilities and authorities of supervisor in mercerizing 68
4.4.1 R esponsibility 68
4.4.2 Authorities 69
4.5 M ercerizing of knitted fabrics in tubes 69
5 Padding process 71
5.1 Padding—purpose and systems 71
5.2 What padding should and should not do? 74
5.2.1 S hould do 74
5.2.2 S hould not do 74
5.3 Different padding sequences 74
5.3.1 Pad-steam method for scouring 74
5.3.2 P ad-dry process 74
5.3.3 P ad-batch process 74
5.3.4 P ad-roll process 75
5.3.5 P ad-steam process 75
5.4 G eneral activities in padding 76
5.5 Precautions to be taken for padding 76
5.6 C ontrol points and checkpoints 76
5.6.1 C ontrol points 77
5.6.2 C heckpoints 77
5.7 N ormal problems in padding 78
5.8 D os and don’ts for padding 78
5.8.1 D os 78
5.8.2 D on’ts 79
Contents ix
5.9 R esponsibilities and authorities of supervisor in padding 79
5.9.1 R esponsibilities 79
5.9.2 Authorities 79
6 Fabric dyeing in open width 81
6.1 I ntroduction 81
6.2 B atch dyeing 81
6.3 S emi-continuous dyeing process 82
6.4 C ontinuous dyeing process 83
6.5 Jig dyeing machine 83
6.5.1 What jigger should and should not do? 86
6.5.2 Dyeing process using a jigger 86
6.5.3 The factors controlling the rate of dye
absorption in jigger dyeing 87
6.5.4 T ypical operating procedure of dyeing on a jigger 87
6.5.5 Some typical problems that may be
encountered in jig machines 89
6.5.6 Precautions to be taken for jigger dyeing 90
6.5.7 C ontrol points and checkpoints 90
6.5.8 L imitations of jigger 92
6.5.9 D os and Don’ts for jigger dyeing 93
6.5.10 Responsibilities and authorities of
supervisor in jigger dyeing 93
6.6 Continuous dyeing system 94
6.6.1 Problems in continuous dyeing 100
7 Fabric dyeing in rope form 101
7.1 I ntroduction 101
7.2 Winch dyeing 101
7.3 Jet Dyeing 102
7.4 Types of jet dyeing machines 104
x Contents
7.4.1 O verfl ow dyeing machine 104
7.4.2 Soft fl ow dyeing machine 106
7.4.3 Airfl ow dyeing machine 110
7.5 P rocess steps in jet dyeing 112
7.6 C ontrol points and checkpoints 113
7.7 Normal Problems in Jet Dyeing 115
7.8 D os and Don’ts 115
8 Airfl ow processing of fabrics 117
8.1 Concept 117
8.2 P rinciple of operation 118
8.3 Various activities that can be done using airfl ow machines 121
8.4 T ypical work procedure for softening cotton fabrics 123
8.5 C ontrol points and checkpoints 124
8.5.1 C ontrol points 125
8.5.2 Checkpoints 125
8.6 D os and don’ts 126
8.6.1 D os 126
8.6.2 D on’ts 126
9 Textile drying 127
9.1 Drying 127
9.2 What drying should and should not do? 127
9.2.1 S hould do 127
9.2.2 S hould not do 128
9.3 Areas where drying is needed in textiles 128
9.4 Different drying techniques adapted in textiles 129
9.5 Centrifugal hydroextraction 129
9.6 Mangling 130
9.7 D rying Cylinders 131
Contents xi
9.8 Hot air drying 133
9.8.1 Drying of hanks using hot air chamber 135
9.9 Yarn package drying 136
9.10 R adio Frequency Drying (RFD) 136
9.10.1 W hy RFD? 137
9.11 H ydroextraction by suction 138
9.12 Stenter 138
9.13 R elax dryers 140
10 Hot-air stenters 143
10.1 Purpose and functions 143
10.2 W hat stenters should and should not do? 144
10.2.1 S hould do 144
10.2.2 Should not do 144
10.3 W orking principle 144
10.3.1 F eeding 144
10.3.2 Padding of the fi nishing chemicals 146
10.3.3 Weft straightener 147
10.3.4 Drying unit 147
10.3.5 Clips and pins 150
10.3.6 A fter drying 151
10.4 Typical operating procedure for operating a modern
hot-air stenter 153
10.5 Control points and checkpoints 155
10.5.1 C ontrol points 155
10.5.2 C heckpoints 156
10.6 D os and don’ts 158
10.6.1 D os 158
10.6.2 D on’ts 158
10.7 Tips for saving energy while stenter processing 159
