Table Of ContentHANDBOOK OF
TEXTILE TESTING
AND QUALITY CONTROL
Handbook of
TEXTILE TESTING
AND
QUALITY CONTROL
mutoT n'cxovms,
mao. aoc
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D.S. HAMBY,
BrelegatDndiee Pref of Teter
Dybertoet ef Fibs ant Tor Tecolegy
Sl of Tees Noth Carve Sle Colere
‘all, Heth Cortina
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WILEY EASTERN PRIVATE LIMITED
(NEW DELHL
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ale by Anon. Kanda for Wit Ruarn Fat aid, 41 3c
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PREFACE
‘The Handbook of Tontile Testing ond pally Control ax bora
designed foor use by executives, technical personnel, and anidents,
‘Each tat has been dlacumed following the general pattern of why
‘important, floes that influence the test resus, and the
technique of making the test.
‘The discustion of why the test is important is primarily or
the executives to aid them in understanding why certain ters are
preferred under a given set of candlitiens and why other test may
be neceseary unr different ciecometances, The technical die
‘cussions of the esta are intended as an aid for the quality cam
trol group in locating and correcting iregularitica im proceaing,
‘Tho sectiont devoted to discussions of testing techniques are 25¢
the ue of laboratory technicians and student,
‘The wrising and arsaibling of such a handbook i a job of i
zanse proportions It is humanly and physically iesposdible Yo in-
clude all testing and quality coateal techniques in use throughout
the lertle induiny. Under theme cireammances, the authors have
confined theie efforts to cotton and syathetic fibers and to the
otto and modiied cotton systems of proceasng,
‘The authors are indebted to many individuals and corporations
for suggestions and resteral included in thia volume. The authare
are alyo indebted to Profewor Ronald A, Fisher, Cambridge; t
‘Frank Yates, Rothamsted; and t9 Mess, Giver and Boyd, Lid,
Ediaburgh, for persion to reprint Tebler XLI, XLIET, and
XLIV fom their book, Shuisticl Tables for Bielgial, Agrictrad
land Medical Resear
Exuor B. Grove
D. 8. Hawey
CONTENTS
2. Inreducion to Teale Teng and Quality Coatol
1 Aeon af Meanrerant
an Bromma of Dat + :
1, Aaa of Dat mt
¥. Stil Quliy Contr! Chars
ve Analy by Dele ‘
eu Sample Saree ee
vane Digermee beeen Avemgse
te Ooesinita srs sees :
x Fuamidly aud Moone, 2 se
x Cotton Sale Leagts and Grade
121 Couoa Fee Legis Anais :
sic Fiber Sength wee ees :
Zev, Flee Feoem end Matai
2¥. NowsLint Gonteot ani Nep Hotntiats =. =
‘Otter fibee Fem and Mees «
Smale Syntine Fiber Toe
Geavel fa Opming sod Ping
Sone inthe Card Rech > :
Yarn Nuberng.
ext Yaro Stag
TerW, Anaya of Srongib Meares. «
zine Ausyen of Saraediein Conver ss >
tear, Yarn Grade mod Appearance
‘ex, Twit Toning»
ssxvn Addon Ten for itu ed Yeon
‘never Approach fo Erman Mearieanens, :
aavist Boeonme Tote.
earn, Bonlusdn and Inerreation of Eoeonem Mamrencat «478
RE. Chote! io Winking, Waring, and Slashing aT
sxxuz Woven Fabsio Teng, Geomal a8
u 3
Pills
on
DIDI set
‘Append : 2
Agpeds : a
‘Bppendis Vo =)
Inder S mo DELI ooo
CHARTER I
Introduction to Textile Testing
and Quality Control
‘Tentile tenting is the application of engineering knowledge and
sizer to the measurement of the properties and characterisice
‘of and the conditions affecting, tate bers, yaroa, and materials,
Triayolves the ure of techniques, took, instruments, and machines
im the Isboratory far the evaluation af the propertics of these
different forms of textiles.
‘Quality contral is coneemed with the evaluation of est data
and ie application 1 the control of the textile proces, raw
materials, tlerriediate products, and final product. Ie is con
serned not only with quay level and the cost of maintaining
{is tevel, but abo with the presentation of tangible values #0
measure quality and changes in quality.
‘Neither testile testing wor quality control alone can serve
fully the textile technician, the mill, or the industry, hut together
they form a very steong team with dynamic posses, Toning
providd the background and dats, and quality coutol applics
the remit,
IE the tentle industry 19 viewed objectively, it willbe aeen that
the uldmate effort, depending an the product, isto provide the
‘best quality potsible a¢ dhe lowest cost. Other factor arc involved,
and these cannot be undercsizmated. For example, sling must
‘be attmetive to the customer in houehold and appare) goods;
delivery stability, and otker busines practices must be uf high
order if the mill ia wo hold its customers; labor as well ag public
relations mast be good or else other effort are damaged. But, in
the Tong run, theultimate aie isto imprave oe moved the ratio
cof quality to cost, for both mean customer approval and financial
succes. Ta the improvement of the ratio of quality tm cov, tbe
Co
2 ‘mee THONG AD QUALITY CORTRGL
sill must view ita own ptoblemns in manufactoring and cwiomer
relations before caking action. In rome case, it might be preferable
to aim for improved quality with no increase in costs, In other
cee where quality i tabilized at a satfaetry Jevel, the ob-
Jective should be t9 reduee the cost of meeting ein quality lve
Tn other ontea the produet may be too good for the market, and
both the quality level and cost con be reduced. Te a through
texting and quality control techniques that dhe changes desired
‘can be tried, for without tangible values provided by a quality
content pmgram, any affert to alter quallty of cast amounts to
tamperug with the unkxown,
"Texale tating has attained an important postion in the tole
indunuy: iti just as applicable fo the analyais of a finished Exbrie,
as it is to dhe raw material; Cis as useful for the measure of a
Thomsefold fabric at for any Arzay fabri; i i as necestary to the
cotton spinner in controlling the quality of his product aa it
tw the zayon producer in controling the quality of his product;
and itia aa valuable a too! in the hands ef the texte manufacforer
an itis in the band of the research technician.
‘The many forms of cones all differ in their characteristics,
Just as people differ in personality. One type of yarn may be
sirong, another beat resistant, a third elastic, a fourth able 10
‘withstand wear, and wll another may poseas ¢ combination of
hese. A knowledge of these phynical properties means in reality
1 knowledge of how external force or conditions affect the yarn
or fabric. The laboratary equipped for tetile trating isthe proving
‘round for the determination, mivature, and cumparizon of nich
properties
‘The interpretation of rmlts it as important ax the axtoal
physical tesa. Ie isnot enough to meanure a ingle property of a
yams itis aloo necesary to know what other fortes oc eanditions
induence the result, For example, if» cotton yam is tested for
‘arength, it is necessary to know the extent of the influence of
ammoeplicric moisture, since cotton yar, being hygroscopic, is
strengthened by increase ints moigure content. Or, the elaati
Limit of a rayou yarn may be of mare imporiance to a weavet
‘than io ultimate tensile strength. To undertand the inter-
