Table Of ContentEnvironmental Footprints and Eco-design
of Products and Processes
Miguel Angel Gardetti
Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu
Editors
Handbook of
Sustainable
Luxury Textiles
and Fashion
Volume 2
Environmental Footprints and Eco-design
of Products and Processes
Series editor
Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu, Hong Kong, Hong Kong SAR
More information about this series at http://www.springer.com/series/13340
Miguel Angel Gardetti
Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu
Editors
Handbook of Sustainable
Luxury Textiles and Fashion
Volume 2
123
Editors
Miguel AngelGardetti Subramanian SenthilkannanMuthu
Centerfor Studies onSustainable Luxury Eco-design Consultant
BuenosAires GlobalSustainability Services
Argentina Hong Kong
Hong KongSAR
ISSN 2345-7651 ISSN 2345-766X (electronic)
Environmental Footprints andEco-design of ProductsandProcesses
ISBN978-981-287-741-3 ISBN978-981-287-742-0 (eBook)
DOI 10.1007/978-981-287-742-0
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Preface
This book is Volume 2, which is the successor of our previous Volume 1 on
Handbook of Sustainable luxury in Textiles and Fashion. This second volume
comes out with eight important chapters to deal with the other new arenas of
sustainable luxury in textiles and fashion, which were not covered in Volume 1.
Chapter “Loewe: Luxury and Sustainable Management” introduces Loewe—a
company from the luxury industry and their sustainable management principles.
Thischapter deals with the model ofsustainable value creationthat integratesfour
elements: environment, innovation, stakeholder management, economic value and
potential of growth.
Chapter “Long-Term Sustainable Sustainability in Luxury. Where Else?” deals
withthepastandcurrentintersectionsofsustainableluxuryandattemptstodrawa
conclusion on its future. This chapter includes interesting examples of luxury
brands integrating themselves to sustainability and aims to put luxury and sus-
tainability in the context of consumers and brands.
Chapter “Pineapple Leaf Fibre—A Sustainable Luxury and Industrial Textiles”
revolves around the exploration of pineapple leaffibre for sustainable luxury and
industrial textiles applications. This chapter includes the discussions pertaining to
the extraction methods of fibre and evaluation of fibre properties and importantly
coversthesustainable utilization oftheby-productgeneratedduringtheprocessof
fibre extraction.
Chapter “Beyond Appearances: The Hidden Meanings of Sustainable Luxury”
dealswiththedimensionsthatcharacterizesustainableluxuryandthesourcesofthe
dialoguebetweenluxuryandsustainability.Theimportantaspectisdiscussedwith
the aid offour Italian case studies.
Chapter “Irreplaceable Luxury Garments” addresses the value of emotional
engagement and the state of irreplaceability of luxury garments, as one way of
approaching the topic of sustainable luxury fashion. This chapter also presents the
concept of sustainable luxury fashion the framework on the user’s relationship to
designproductsandalsodealswiththereframingluxuryfashionthroughtime and
human presence.
v
vi Preface
Chapter“TheDevilBuys(Fake)Prada:LuxuryConsumptionontheContinuum
Between Sustainability and Counterfeits” deals with the determinants of the “dark
side of luxury consumption”, one of the largest challenges in luxury brand man-
agement: the increased demand for counterfeit branded product. An empirical
investigation of a multidimensional framework of counterfeit risk perception and
counterfeit shoppingbehaviourasperceivedbydistinctconsumersegments isalso
discussed in this chapter to a greater extent.
Chapter“TheLuxuryofSustainability:ExaminingValue-BasedDriversofFair
Trade Consumption” includes the discussions pertaining to the examination of the
luxuryofsustainabilityagainstthebackdropoftheresearchquestionsconcerninga
proposed similarity of consumer associations between luxury and ethical products.
Thischapterpresentsthedetailsonanempiricalinvestigationofamultidimensional
framework of intrapersonal fair trade orientation, fair-trade-oriented luxury per-
ception and fair-trade-oriented customer perceived value with reference to the
recommendation offair trade products.
Chapter “The Sustainable Luxury Craft of Bespoke Tailoring and Its’ Enduring
Competitive Advantage” deals with how the luxury sector sustains its current
consumption momentum and simultaneously espouses the logic of sustainable
development.Thischapteralsodealswiththefollowingtopics:concisechronology
of cultural and societal events of humanity’s affinity, slow fashion philosophy, the
theory of the relational view and the importance of relational networks and the
artisanalpracticesoftheSavileRowtailorsandtheirrelationalproductionnetwork
and retail facades.
We would like to take this wonderful opportunity to thank all the contributors
ofthechapterspresentedinthisbookfortheirintensiveeffortsinbringingoutthis
secondvolumeofthishandbooksosuccessfullywithenrichedtechnicalcontentin
their chapters. We are very much confident that this handbook will certainly
becomeasanimportantreferencefortheresearchersandstudents,industrialistsand
sustainability professionals working in the textiles and fashion sector.
Contents
Loewe: Luxury and Sustainable Management. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Miguel Angel Gardetti
Long-Term Sustainable Sustainability in Luxury. Where Else? . . . . . . 17
Coste-Manière Ivan, Ramchandani Mukta, Chhabra Sudeep
and Cakmak Burak
Pineapple Leaf Fibre—A Sustainable Luxury and Industrial
Textiles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Sanjoy Debnath
Beyond Appearances: The Hidden Meanings of Sustainable
Luxury. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Silvia Ranfagni and Simone Guercini
Irreplaceable Luxury Garments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Susanne Guldager
The Devil Buys (Fake) Prada: Luxury Consumption
on the Continuum Between Sustainability and Counterfeits. . . . . . . . . 99
Nadine Hennigs, Christiane Klarmann and Franziska Labenz
The Luxury of Sustainability: Examining Value-Based Drivers
of Fair Trade Consumption. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Steffen Schmidt, Nadine Hennigs, Stefan Behrens
and Evmorfia Karampournioti
The Sustainable Luxury Craft of Bespoke Tailoring
and Its’ Enduring Competitive Advantage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
WenYing Claire Shih and Konstantinos Agrafiotis
vii
Loewe: Luxury and Sustainable
Management
Miguel Angel Gardetti
Abstract Thesustainableluxury—theonethatrequiresfromorganizations,asocial
andenvironmentalperformanceofrealexcellencethroughoutthevaluechain—local
“contents” based on culture should not be absent. Thus, sustainable luxury also
means craftsmanship and innovation of the different nationalities, preserving the
localculturalheritage.Loewe,anorganizationbelongingtotheLVMHgroupsince
1996, is the leading brand of luxury leather in Spain and its name is related to the
“mastersofleather.”Atagloballevel,Loeweisintheluxurysectorhavingstartedas
aleathercraftsmanassociationindowntownMadridin1846.Thedevelopmentand
manufactureofproductsofferedbyLoewearecarriedoutinSpainandshippedtothe
mainmarketsinEurope,Japan,China,andtherestofAsia.Itsproductsalsoinclude,
beyondfragrancesmadeatLVMHgroup,licensedsunglasses.Despitethefactthat
this brand was given a recognition as Lifetime Contribution to sustainable luxury
Development within the framework of the IE Award for Sustainability in the
PremiumandLuxurySectorsonJuly2,2014,thiscaseanalyzesthecompanyunder
themodelofsustainablevaluecreationdevelopedbyProfessorStuartL.Hart(Hart
inHarvardBusRev75:66–76,1997;HartinCapitalismatthecrossroads.Wharton
SchoolPublishing,UpperSladeRiver,2005;HartinCapitalismatthecrossroads—
aligning business, earth, and humanity. Wharton School Publishing, Upper Slade
River,2007;HartandMilsteininMITSloanManageRev41:23–33,1999;Hartand
Milstein in Acad Manage Executive 17:56–67, 2003) that integrates four aspects:
environment, innovation, stakeholder management, and potential for growth. To
developthiscase,theauthorcollectedbackgroundandinformationofthecompany
from corporate documents (2013 Sustainability Report and the document
“Traditional Values and Commitment to the Future” from 2012). This source was
M.A.Gardetti(&)
CenterforStudiesonSustainableLuxury,Av.SanIsidro4166PB“A”,
C1429ADP,BuenosAires,Argentina
e-mail:[email protected]
URL:http://www.lujosustentable.org
©SpringerScience+BusinessMediaSingapore2016 1
M.A.GardettiandS.S.Muthu(eds.),HandbookofSustainableLuxury
TextilesandFashion,EnvironmentalFootprintsandEco-design
ofProductsandProcesses,DOI10.1007/978-981-287-742-0_1
2 M.A.Gardetti
supplemented withinterviewswith membersofthecompany’ssustainabilityteam.
Loewe creates sustainable value through different sustainable practices that add
value to the brand. They are energy efficiency, quality and environmental value
products,supplychainmanagementanddialog,diversityintegration,acquisitionof
new capabilities for sustainability, and at strategic level, Loewe develops a sus-
tainablevision going forward realizing its growthpotential.
(cid:1) (cid:1) (cid:1) (cid:1)
Keywords Luxury Sustainable luxury Loewe Sustainable management
Sustainable value creation
1 Introduction
Sustainabledevelopmentisanewparadigm,andthisrequireslookingatthingsina
differentway.Andwhileluxuryhasalwaysbeenimportantasasocialdeterminant,
itiscurrentlystartingtogiveplaceforpeopletoexpresstheirdeepestvalues.Thus,
sustainable luxury promotes the return to the essence of luxury with its ancestral
meaning, the thoughtful purchase, the artisan manufacturing, the beauty of mate-
rials in its broadest sense, and the respect for social and environmental issues
(Gardetti2011). Therefore, sustainable luxury will require—from those companies
in this sector—a social and environmental performance of true excellence, which
means starting with an internal change process, encouraging sustainable business
practiceacrosstheorganizationandthesupplychain.Consequently,firstofall,this
chapterintroducesLoewe—acompanyfromtheluxuryindustrycreatedbyEnrique
Loewe Roessberg in 1846, which currently belongs to the LVMH group. Then, it
shows the model of sustainable value creation that integrates four elements: envi-
ronment,innovation,stakeholdermanagement,andpotentialofgrowth(Hart1997,
2005,2007;HartandMilstein1999,2003),toendwithananalysisofthecompany
in light of the above model and a few conclusions.
2 Methodology
To develop this case, the author collected background and information of the
company from corporate documents. Among them, I can mention the 2013
Sustainability Report, and the document “Traditional Values and Commitment to
the Future” from 2012, addressing the current relationship between the company
and sustainability. Moreover, this source was supplemented with interviews with
members of the company’s sustainability team.
