Table Of ContentHandbook of Museum Textiles
Scrivener Publishing
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Beverly, MA 01915-6106
Publishers at Scrivener
Martin Scrivener ([email protected])
Phillip Carmical ([email protected])
Handbook of Museum Textiles
Volume II
Scientific and Technological Research
Edited by
Seiko Jose
Sabu Thomas
Pintu Pandit
and
Ritu Pandey
This edition first published 2023 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, USA and Scrivener
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
ISBN 978-1-119-98338-5
Cover image: Pixabay.Com
Cover design by Russell Richardson
Set in size of 11pt and Minion Pro by Manila Typesetting Company, Makati, Philippines
Printed in the USA
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Contents
Preface xv
1 Damage Caused by Physical and Chemical Agents and Their Prevention 1
Suza Ahmed, Mohammad Mohsin Ul Hoque and Abubakar Siddik
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Characteristics of Typical Museum Textiles 2
1.3 Agents Causing Damage to Textile Materials 2
1.4 Deterioration of Textiles by Mechanical Stresses 3
1.4.1 Dimensional Changes 4
1.4.2 Change in Modulus 4
1.5 Deterioration of Textiles by Light and Radiation 5
1.5.1 Deterioration of Textiles by Photochemical Tendering 5
1.5.2 Fading of Dyes 6
1.5.3 Accelerated Photochemical Tendering 6
1.5.4 Light Ageing 7
1.6 Deterioration of Textiles by Humidity and Temperature 7
1.6.1 Temperature 7
1.6.2 Relative Humidity 7
1.6.3 Fluctuating Humidity and Temperature 8
1.7 Deterioration by Acid, Alkali, and Water 8
1.8 Deterioration of Textiles by Gaseous and Solid Contaminants 8
1.8.1 Gaseous Contaminants 9
1.8.2 Particulate Contaminants 9
1.9 Deterioration of Textiles to Biological Agents 9
1.9.1 Insects and Pests 9
1.9.2 Mold 11
1.9.3 Source of Biological Agents 11
1.10 Cases of Damages in Museum Textiles 11
1.11 Other Factors Influencing the Damages to Textiles 13
1.11.1 Alienation 13
1.11.2 Fire 13
1.11.3 Theft or Vandalism 13
1.12 Avoiding Damages 13
1.12.1 Temperature and Humidity 13
1.12.2 Avoiding Damages Caused by Light and UV Radiation 14
1.12.2.1 Measuring Light and UV Levels 14
v
vi Contents
1.12.3 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pest 15
1.12.4 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pollutants 15
1.12.5 Avoiding Environmental Damages 15
1.13 Conservation of Museum Textiles 16
1.13.1 Moth Management 16
1.13.2 Integrated Pest Management 16
1.13.2.1 Monitoring the Collections 17
1.13.2.2 Insect Trapping 18
1.13.2.3 Traditional Method 18
1.13.2.4 Hygienic Control of Pests 18
1.13.2.5 Pest-Proofing 18
1.13.3 Laser Cleaning of Tarnished Silver and Copper Threads
in Museum Textiles 19
1.14 Conclusion 19
References 20
2 Biological Damage to Textiles and Prevention Methods 23
Kurmo Konsa, Theodora Kormpaki and Janika Turu
2.1 Introduction 23
2.2 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Microorganisms (Bacteria, Fungi) 25
2.2.1 Most Common Species of Microorganisms in Textile Collections 25
2.2.2 Deterioration Caused by Microorganisms 26
2.2.3 Methods of Examination and Identification of Microorganisms 27
2.3 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Insects 28
2.3.1 Most Common Species of Insects in Textile Collections 28
2.3.2 Deterioration Caused by Insects 29
2.3.3 Monitoring and Identification of Insects in Textile Collections 30
2.4 The Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 30
2.4.1 Prevention Methods 31
2.4.1.1 Construction Aspects 31
2.4.1.2 Storage Conditions 31
2.4.1.3 Storage 32
2.4.1.4 Room Monitoring 32
2.4.2 Remediation Methods 33
2.4.2.1 Low Temperatures (Freezing) 34
2.4.2.2 High Temperatures (Heating) 34
2.4.2.3 Gamma Radiation 34
2.4.2.4 Modified Atmospheres 35
2.4.2.5 Mechanical Removal 35
2.4.3 Chemical Control Methods 35
2.4.4 New Methods for the Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 36
2.5 Biological and Chemical Risk Factors in the Preservation and Conservation
of Textiles 37
2.6 Conclusion 37
References 38
Contents vii
3 Microscopy of Historical Textiles 45
Hana Lukesova
3.1 Introduction 45
3.2 Optical Microscopy 46
3.2.1 Stereomicroscopes 46
3.2.1.1 Textile Techniques 47
3.2.1.2 Finishing 47
3.2.1.3 Repairs and Changes 48
3.2.1.4 Reflected Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2 Transmitted White Light and Polarized Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2.1 Transmitted White Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2.2 Polarized Light Microscopy 49
3.2.2.3 Fiber Identification 50
3.2.2.4 Finishing 51
3.2.2.5 Microbiological Attack 52
3.2.3 Digital Microscopy 52
3.3 Electron Microscopy 53
3.3.1 Scanning Electron Microscopy 53
3.3.1.1 Sample Preparation 53
3.3.1.2 Fiber Identification of Animal Hairs 53
3.3.1.3 Finishing 54
3.3.1.4 Dyeing 54
3.3.1.5 Quality 54
3.3.1.6 Degradation 55
3.3.2 Transmission Electron Microscopy 55
3.3.2.1 Sample Preparation 56
3.4 Conclusion 56
References 57
4 Computational Structural Analysis 61
Rana Al Ali, Mohamed Dallel, Boumediene Nedjar and Elhem Ghorbel
4.1 Introduction 61
4.2 Mechanical Modeling of Textile 62
4.2.1 Microscopic Modeling of Textiles 63
4.2.2 Mesoscoping Modeling of Textiles 63
4.2.3 Macroscopic Modeling of Textiles 65
4.3 Historical Textiles’ Modeling 67
4.3.1 Creep in Structural Analysis 67
4.3.2 Finite Element Method 68
4.3.3 The Rheological Model 68
4.3.3.1 Kinematic Associated with Elastic Behavior 70
4.3.3.2 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Elastoplastic Branch [I] 71
4.3.3.3 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Viscoelastic Branch [II] 76
4.4 Application to Tapestries: Case Studies 76
4.4.1 Application 1: The Importance of Considering the Orthotropy 77
viii Contents
4.4.2 Application 2: Effect of Hanging System 78
4.4.3 Application 3: Presence of Tears and Slits 79
4.5 Conclusion 79
Acknowledgement 80
References 80
5 Characterization of Ancient Dyes and Prints 85
Hannah Dewey, Meghan Lord and Januka Budhathoki-Uprety
5.1 Introduction 85
5.2 Characterization Methods 87
5.2.1 Thin Layer Chromatography 87
5.2.2 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 89
5.2.2.1 Dyestuff Analysis 90
5.2.2.2 Sample Preparation and Extraction Methods 90
5.2.2.3 Detectors 92
5.2.2.4 Limitations 93
5.2.3 Raman Spectroscopy 94
5.2.4 Infrared Spectroscopy 96
5.2.5 Fluorescence Spectroscopy 97
5.2.6 Fiber Optic Reflectance Spectroscopy 99
5.2.7 Mass Spectrometry 100
5.3 Printing Techniques 101
5.4 Conclusion 102
References 103
6 State-of-the-Art Characterization Methods for Historic Textiles 107
Reza Assefi Pour, Mazeyar Parvinzadeh Gashti and Jinxin He
6.1 Introduction 108
6.2 Dating of Textiles 108
6.2.1 Radiocarbon Dating 109
6.2.1.1 Advantages and Limitations of Radiocarbon Dating 109
6.2.1.2 Radiocarbon Dating Measurements 110
6.2.1.3 The AMS Method of Radiocarbon Dating 110
6.2.2 Micromechanical Method for Textiles Dating 111
6.3 Molecular Analysis 112
6.3.1 DNA Analysis 112
6.3.2 Amino Acid Composition 114
6.4 Proteomics 115
6.4.1 Principle and Evaluation Process of Historic Textiles 115
6.4.2 Why Proteomics Is Preferred 117
6.5 Isotopic Tracing 118
6.5.1 The Strontium Isotope Tracing System 118
6.5.2 Benefits of Sr Isotope Tracing 119
6.5.3 Limitations of Sr Isotope Tracing 119
6.6 Thermal Analysis 120
6.7 Optical Measurement Tests 121
