Hair care : from physiology to formulation

622 Pages·2008·12.78 MB·English

by  Allured Publishing Corporation

Hair Care:
From Physiology to Formulation
Hair Care:

From Physiology to Formulation
Cosmetics & Toiletries, the international magazine of cosmetic
technology, is the cosmetic and personal care industry’s preferred
destination for the latest information on formulations, new
technologies, ingredients, testing and news. Cosmetics & Toiletries
®
is the first-read industry magazine for cosmetic chemists, R&D
management, and key to the development of new formulations
and product concepts.
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Pulling from its most popular articles written by world-renowned
a
experts, Hair Care: From Physiology to Formulation delivers the same
i
quality and international appeal as the magazine. r

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This informative collection of articles covers a variety of topics a
to create a solid foundation of knowledge about hair care in r
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cosmetics industry.
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Topics include:
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• Physiology m
• Shampoo and conditioning
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• Ethnic hair care h
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• Styling s
• Color io
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• Sun protection
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• Hair Care Formulary y

• And more! to

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“This informative collection provides professionals with invaluable
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knowledge from well-known experts.”
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Rachel Chapman
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Senior Editor, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine t
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Allured Publishing Corporation
336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A
Carol Stream, IL 60188
www.allured.com/bookstore
[email protected]
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
®
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Hair Care:
From Physiology to Formulation

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Hair Care: From Physiology to Formulation
ISBN: 978-1-932633-35-1
Copyright 2008, by Allured Publishing Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
Editorial
Book Editor: Angela C. Kozlowski
Copy Editor: Jean Allured
Indexer: Joy Dean Lee
Designer: Jennifer J. Kauffman
Administration
Publisher: Marian S. Raney
Book Manager: Marie Kuta
Book Coordinator and Web Support: Anita Singh

Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means,
electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming and recording, or by any
information storage retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.
NOTICE
To the best of our knowledge the information in this book is accurate. However, in a time
of rapid change, it is difficult to ensure that all information provided is entirely accurate
and up-to-date. Therefore, the author and the publisher accept no responsibility for any
inaccuracies or omissions and specifically disclaim any liability, loss, or risk, personal or
otherwise, which is incurred as a consequence, directly or indirectly, of the use and/or
application of any of the contents of this book. Mention of trade names or commercial
products does not constitute endorsement or recommendation for use by the Publisher.
Allured Publishing Corporation
336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188 USA
Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone]
E-mail: [email protected]
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Table of Contents
Introduction ................................................................... I
ParT I. Overview
Chapter 1. Hair Care Rides the Curl, .................................................... 1
Jeffries
Chapter 2. Happier Days for Hair Care?, ............................................. 9
Davies
Chapter 3. , ............. 15
Extending the Hair Care Line with Fragrance Brewster
ParT II. Ethnic
Chapter 4. , .............. 23
Global Hair Care Report: a Feel for Innovation Jeffries
Chapter 5. , ................................. 29
Debunking Ethnic Hair Care Myths Doyle
Chapter 6.
Maintaining Ethnic Hair Care Leverage:
an Interview with Patrick O bukowho, Obukowho ................................. 35
Chapter 7.
Meeting the Needs of African Hair Care:
, ............................................. 39
an Interview with Chuck Warren Warren
Chapter 8. ...................... 43
Paradigm Shift for India’s Hair Care, Bhattacharya
Chapter 9.
Asian Hair: Its Properties, Physiology, Protection and the
, ............................................ 49
Market for Asian Hair Care Rocafort et al.
Chapter 10. ..................... 61
Ethnic Hair and Disorders of the Scalp, Callender
ParT III. Physiology
Chapter 11. ,
Inside the Hair: an Advanced Hair Biology Model
.............................................................................. 71
Schueller, Romanowski
Chapter 12.
Approaches to and Characterization of
, .................................................................... 81
Hair Growth Westgate et al.
Hair_TOC.fcx.indd 1 9/15/07 12:53:29 AM
Table of Contents Hair Care
ParT IV. Shampoo
Chapter 13. , .................................... 93
Shampoo Formulation: The Basics Klein
Chapter 14.
New Technology for Shampoos and Conditioners:
, ...................................................... 99
Between the Shock Waves Westman
Chapter 15. , .................................................. 109
Working Up a Lather Vazquez
Chapter 16.
Deposition from Conditioning Shampoo:
, ............................. 115
Optimizing Coacervate Formation Lochhead et al.
Chapter 17.
Advances in Polymers for
, .............................. 123
Hair Conditioning Shampoos Lochhead, Huisinga
Chapter 18.
Efficacy of Coal Tar vs. Sodium Shale Oil Sulfonate for
, ............................................................. 137
Treating Dandruff Gayko et al.
Chapter 19.
Esters from Vegetable Sources with
, ....................................................... 155
Care Effects for Hair Morris et al.
Chapter 20.
Silicone Technologies as Delivery Systems via
, ..................................................... 169
Physical Associations Newton et al.
Chapter 21.
Performance and Sensorial Benefits of

, .............................. 183
Cationic Guar in Hair Care Applications Chiron
ParT V. Condition
Chapter 22. , ......... 195
Formulating Hair Conditioners: Hope and Hype! Klein
Chapter 23. , ......................... 201
Silicones for Hair Strengthening Johnson et al.
Chapter 24 , ...................................... 211
Anionic/Cationic Complexes O’Lenick
Chapter 25.
Anionic Organosilicones: Complexing Agents for
, ............................................ 217
Quaternary Compounds Vondruska et al.
Chapter 26.
Silicone Quaternary Microemulsion:
, ................. 231
a Multifunctional Product for Hair Care Ostergaard et al.
Chapter 27.
Using Polyquaternium-64 to
, ............................................ 243
Condition Damaged Hair Shimada et al.
Chapter 28.
Quaternium-91: a New, Multifunctional Hair
, ...................................................... 257
Conditioning Ingredient Gao et al.
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Hair Care Table of Contents
ParT VI. Styling
Chapter 29. ,
Innovations in Hair Styling Technology
............................................................................ 271
Schueller, Romanowski
Chapter 30. , ..... 283
Advances in Polymers for Hair Styling Lochhead, Huisinga
Chapter 31.
Silicone Amino Elastomer Emulsion for
, .......................... 297
Conditioning and Styling Performance Gomes et al.
Chapter 32. , .............. 311
Designing Emulsions for Relaxer Actives Obukowho
Chapter 33. , ..................................... 317
Styling Polymers in Mousses Brewster
Chapter 34.
Evaluating Polyimide-1, a Styling Resin for
, ............................................. 327
Gel and Mousse Formulations Clements
Chapter 35.
Antichaotropic Salts for Stabilizing Cysteine in
, ................................................ 341
Permanent Waving Solutions Shansky
Chapter 36.
Refractive Index Matching:
, ................................. 347
Principles and Cosmetic Applications Sun et al.
Chapter 37.
A New Dimension in Hair Styling:
, ........... 361
VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer Wood et al.

ParT VII. Color
Chapter 38. , .................................................. 375
Dyeing to Get it Right Mason
Chapter 39.
Forever Young—Antiaging Hair Care:
, ............................................ 383
an Interview with Beth Johnson Schaefer
Chapter 40. , ............ 387
A Controllable Progressive Hair Dye Process Shansky
Chapter 41. , .................. 397
Advances in Polymers for Hair Coloring Lochhead
Chapter 42.
Multilayer Lamella Vesicles in Oxidative Dye Formulations:
, ...................................... 413
Characterization and Performance Gao et al.
ParT VIII. Sun Protection
Chapter 43.
Using Natural Keratin Biopolymers to
, ............................................ 433
Protect the Hair Roddick-Lanzilotta et al.
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Table of Contents Hair Care
Chapter 44.
Protecting Against UV-Induced Degradation and
, ........................................................... 447
Enhancing Shine Maillan et al.
Chapter 45.
Polyamide 2: an Innovative Photoprotection Polymer for
, ...................................................................... 459
Hair Care Hessefort et al.
ParT IX. Testing
Chapter 46.
Texture Analysis to Formulate Hair Care Products and
, .................................................. 477
Select Packaging Smewing, Jachowicz
Chapter 47.
Torsional Behavior of Human Hair by
, .............................. 487
Single Fiber Torsion Pendulum Method Kamath
Chapter 48. , .... 493
In Vivo Quantitative Evaluation of Gloss Clémenceau et al.
Chapter 49.
Effect of New Regulations on
, ........................................ 503
Hair Coloring Products in the EU Hefford
Chapter 50.
Using Texture Analysis to
, ........................... 511
Substantiate Hair Care Claims Jachowicz, Smewing
Chapter 51. , ............. 527
Recent Polymer Techno logies for Hair Care Brewster
ParT X. Directory
Chapter 52. ................................................................. 555
Hair Care Formulary
Index ......................................................................... 579
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Introduction
For many, hair care simply means a visit to a professional stylist.
However, hair care is a multi-billion dollar world industry with a
growth potential that is astronomical. An incredibly diverse assort-
ment of opportunities and experiences are available in this industry,
with companies involved ranging from huge multi-national con-
glomerates to local neighborhood shops. Hair care products may
have advanced chemical components or the purest natural botani-
cals. It is a fascinating industry!
, the international magazine of cosmetic
Cosmetics & Toiletries
technology, is the cosmetic and personal care industry’s preferred
destination for the latest information on formulations, new technol-
ogies, ingredients, testing and news. Its sister publications,
Perfumer
and , are two of the most
& Flavorist Global Cosmetic Industry (GCI)
respected resources for infor mation in the perfumer and flavorist
and cosmetic industries.
Pulling from all three magazines’ most popular articles written
by world-renowned experts, delivers the same quality and
Hair Care
international appeal as the magazines.
This informative collection of articles covers a variety of topics
to create a solid foundation of knowledge about Hair Care in the
cosmetics industry.
Topics include:
• Physiology
• Shampoo and conditioning
• Ethnic hair care
• Styling
• Color
• Sun protection
• Hair Care Formulary
• And more!
Hair_Intro.fcx.indd 1 9/15/07 12:53:49 AM
II
Introduction Hair Care
We hope you will find this compilation a thought-provoking
“jump-off” point for your future work.
Editors’ Note: Each chapter has been edited from its original publication for style
consistency, but otherwise remains mostly unchanged from its original publication in
Cosmetics & Toiletries, Perfumer & Flavorist or GCI magazine. Therefore some author
affiliations and/or company information may have changed. While the publisher has
attempted to note changes, we may have missed some and cannot accept liability for
inaccuracies or omissions. The original month, year and publication is noted at the end of
each chapter.

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