Green with Milk and Sugar: When Japan Filled America’s Tea Cups

300 Pages·2021·12.552 MB·English

by  Robert Hellyer

GREEN WITH MILK AND SUGAR

G R E E N W I T H M I L K
A N D S U G A R
W H E N JA PA N F I L L E D
A M E R I C A’ S T E A C U P S
ROBERT HELLYER
Columbia University Press
New York
Columbia University Press wishes to express its appreciation for assistance given
by the Wm. Theodore de Bary Fund in the publication of this book.
Columbia University Press
Publishers Since 1893
New York Chichester, West Sussex
cup . columbia . edu
Copyright © 2021 Columbia University Press
All rights reserved
Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data
Names: Hellyer, Robert I., author.
Title: Green with milk and sugar : when Japan filled America's tea cups /
Robert Hellyer.
Description: New York : Columbia University Press, [2021] |
Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2021003017 (print) | LCCN 2021003018 (ebook) |
ISBN 9780231199100 (hardback) | ISBN 9780231552943 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Tea trade— United States— History. | Tea trade— Japan— History.
| Green tea— Social aspects— United States— History. | Green tea— Social
aspects— Japan— History. | United States— Civilization— Japanese influences. |
Japan— Civilization— American influences.
Classification: LCC HD9198.U52 H45 2021 (print) | LCC HD9198.U52 (ebook) |
DDC 382/.413720952— dc23
LC record available at https:// lccn . loc . gov / 2021003017
LC ebook record available at https:// lccn . loc .g ov / 2021003018
Columbia University Press books are printed on permanent and durable
acid- free paper.
Printed in the United States of America
Cover design: Julia Kushnirsky
Cover photograph: PAF / Alamy Stock Photo
FOR MY MOTHER,
NANCY INGELS HELLYER
•

CONTENTS
Notes on Conventions ix
Preface xi
INTRODUCTION
1
1 THE FOUNDATIONS OF TEAWAYS IN JAPAN
AND THE UNITED STATES
8
2 TEA AMID CIVIL WARS
36
3 MAKING JAPAN TEA
53
4 THE MIDWEST: GREEN TEA COUNTRY
91
5 THE BLACK TEA WAVE HITS AMERICA
124
viii CONTENTS
6 DAILY CUPS DEFINED: BLACK TEA IN THE UNITED
STATES, SENCHA IN JAPAN
156
CONCLUSION
197
Acknowledgments 205
Notes 209
Selected Bibliography 245
Index 265
NOTES ON CONVENTIONS
ROMANIZATION
Japanese words, names, titles, and place names are spelled using the
modified Hepburn system. Japanese words include macrons, except for
commonly used ones, such as “shogun” and “Tokyo,” which appear in
standard English dictionaries.
Chinese words, proper names, and place names are spelled accord-
ing to the pinyin system except in some book titles and in cases, such as
Canton (Guangzhou), where the older romanization is more familiar to
English- language readers.
PROPER NAMES
Chinese and Japanese names appear in the original order, with the fam-
ily name first, followed by the given name, except for citations in
English- language works where the author’s name appears in Western
order.