Garde Manger: The Art and Craft of the Cold Kitchen

722 Pages·2012·32.41 MB·English

GARDE MA NGER
garde
manger
the art and craft of the cold kitchen
the culinary institute of america fourth edition
JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.
The Culinary Institute of America
PRESIDENT Dr. Tim Ryan ’77, CMC, AAC EDITORIAL PROJECT MANAGER Lisa Lahey ’00
VICE-PRESIDENT, DEAN OF CULINARY EDUCATION Mark Erickson ’77, CMC EDITORIAL PROJECT MANAGER Margaret Wheeler ’00
SENIOR DIRECTOR, EDUCATIONAL ENTERPRISES Susan Cussen EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Shelly Malgee ’08
DIRECTOR OF PUBLISHING Nathalie Fischer Erin Jeanne McDowell ’08
Faculty Team
Chef Mark Ainsworth ’86, PC III, CEC, CHE Chef Lynne Gigliotti ’88, CHE Chef Kathy Polenz ’73, CHE
Chef Clemens Averbeck, CEC, CHE Chef Jim Heywood Chef Henry Rapp
Chef Brad Barnes ’87, CMC, CCA, AAC Chef Tom Kief ’78, CHE Chef Charles Rascoll
Chef Corky Clark ’71, CCE, CWE, CHE Chef John Kowalski ’77, CHE Chef John Reilly ’88, CCC, CHE
Chef Gerard Coyac, CHE Chef Pierre LeBlanc, CHE Chef Michael Skibitcky, PC III, CCC, CHE
Chef John DeShetler ’68, PC II, CCC, CHE Chef Hubert Martini, CEC, CCE, AAC Chef Jonathon Zearfoss ’80 CEC, CCE, CCP,
Chef Michael Garnero, CHE Chef Bruce Mattel ’80, CHE CHE
Chef Michael Pardus ’81, CHE Chef Greg Zifchak, CEC, CCE, CCP
Finally, for their tireless efforts during every stage of the production of this book, we would especially like to thank Chef Clemens Averbeck, Chef
Corky Clark, Lauren Fury, Chef Michael Garnero, Chef Lynne Gigliotti, Jamie Hall, Robert Kristof, Chef John Kowalski, Eleanor Martin, Chef
Hubert Martini, Chef Michael Pardus, Chef Henry Rapp, Chef John Reilly, Chef Michael Skibitcky, Taliaferro Organic Farms, and Brent Wasser.
This book would not have been possible without their keen insight, vast knowledge, and continuous devotion.
∞
This book is printed on acid-free paper.

Copyright © 2012 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved
Photographs © 2012 by Ben Fink
Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey
Published simultaneously in Canada
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Design by Vertigo Design NYC
library of congress cataloging-in-publication data:
Garde manger : the art and craft of the cold kitchen / the Culinary Institute of America. -- 4th ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-0-470-58780-5 (cloth)
1. Cold dishes (Cooking) 2. Quantity cooking. I. Culinary Institute of America.
TX830.G37 2012
641.7'9--dc23
2011021015
Printed in China
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
CONTENTS
preface xii
1 the professional garde manger
1
2 cold sauces and cold soups
15
3 salads
85
4 sandwiches
159
5 cured and smoked foods
201
6 sausage
251
7 terrines, pâtés, galantines, and roulades
299
8 cheese
365
9 appetizers and hors d’oeuvre
443
10 condiments, crackers, and pickles
573
11 buffet presentation
611
12 basic recipes
637
glossary 667
bibliography and recommended reading 680
resources 684
recipe index 685
subject index 700
RECIPE CONTENTS
2 cold sauces and cold soups
coulis, purées, and other sauces
Artichoke Caponata 48
vinaigrettes
Eggplant Caponata 49
Basic Red Wine Vinaigrette 27
Peperonato 50
Balsamic Vinaigrette 27
Piperrada 51
Truffl e Vinaigrette 28
Sofrito 51
Vinaigrette Gourmande 28
Pesto 52
Lemon Parsley Vinaigrette 29
Mint Pesto Sauce 52
Apple Cider Vinaigrette 29
Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto 53
Curry Vinaigrette 30
Cocktail Sauce 53
Mustard-Walnut Vinaigrette 30
Asian-Style Dipping Sauce 54
Chipotle-Sherry Vinaigrette 31
Cumberland Sauce 54
Roasted Shallot Vinaigrette 32
Peanut Sauce 55
Cherry Tomato Vinaigrette 32
Guacamole 56
Tomato Vinaigrette 33
Baba Ghanoush 57
Beet Vinaigrette 33
Cervelle de Canut 59
Tangerine-Pineapple Vinaigrette 34
Hummus 60
Guava-Curry Vinaigrette 34
Tapenade 60
Almond-Fig Vinaigrette 35
Muhammara 62
Grapefruit Emulsion 35
Hazelnut Romesco Sauce 63
dairy-based and egg-based dressings Garlic and Parsley Compound Butter 63
Basic Mayonnaise 36 Red Pepper Coulis 64
Aïoli 36 Huckleberry Sauce 64
Rémoulade Sauce 37 Apricot-Ancho Barbecue Sauce 65
Russian Dressing 37 Southwestern Barbecue Sauce 66
Green Goddess Dressing 38 Aspic 67
Creole Honey-Mustard Sauce 38 Chaud-Froid Sauce 67
Creamy Black Pepper Dressing 39
soups
Roquefort Dressing 39
Gazpacho Andalusia 68
Ranch Dressing (Reduced-Fat) 40
Chilled Cucumber Soup with Dill, Leeks,
Maytag Blue Cheese Dressing (Reduced-Fat) 40
and Shrimp 69
Yogurt Cucumber Sauce 41
Faux Caviar 70
Tahini Sauce 41
Cold Roasted Tomato and Basil Soup 72
salsas Cold Carrot Soup 73
Vichyssoise 75
Salsa Verde 42
Chilled Edamame Soup 76
Mango-Lime Salsa 43
Fresh Spring Pea Purée with Mint 78
Papaya and Black Bean Salsa 43
Chilled Cantaloupe and Champagne Soup 79
Salsa Fresca 45
Chilled Morello Cherry Soup 80
Chipotle Pico de Gallo 45
Caribbean Coconut and Pineapple Bisque 81
Pickled Ginger Salsa 46
Chilled Clear Borscht 82
Grapefruit Salsa 46
Smoked Poblano Salsa 47
vi garde manger
3 salads
Lobster Salad with Grapefruit Emulsion and
Tarragon Oil 152
green salads
Peekytoe Crab Salad with Yuzu Gelée 154
Parson’s Garden Salad 107
Warm Salad of Hearty Greens, Blood Oranges, and
Spring Herb Salad 108 Tangerine-Pineapple Vinaigrette 155
Apple-Endive Salad Wrapped in Prosciutto 109 Smoked Duck and Malfatti Salad 156
Georgia Peanut Salad 110 Southern Fried Chicken Salad 157
Baby Spinach, Avocado, and Grapefruit Salad 111
4 sandwiches
Greek Salad with Feta Cheese and Whole Wheat
Pita 113
hot sandwiches
Caesar Salad 114
Mini Bacon-Crusted Scallop Burgers 164
vegetable salads
Mini Hamburgers 165
Lobster and Mâche with Potato Salad and Vegetable
Mini Mushroom Burgers with Caramelized
Juice 116
Onions 166
Roasted Beet Salad 118
Croque Monsieur 167
Roasted Potato and Shaved Fennel Salad 119
Soft-Shell Crab Sandwich 168
Marinated Roasted Pepper Salad 120
Eggplant and Prosciutto Panini 171
Hearts of Artichoke Salad 121
Marinated Eggplant Filling 172
Haricots Verts with Prosciutto and Gruyère 122
Reuben Sandwich 173
Shaved Fennel Salad 123
Braised Sauerkraut 173
Roasted Corn and Tomato Salad 125
Falafel in Pita Pockets 175
Coleslaw 126
Duck Confi t with Apples and Brie on a
Marinated Tomato Salad 127 Baguette 176
Lentil-Barley Mini Burgers with Fiery Fruit
potato salads; pasta, grain, and
Salsa 178
legume salads; and fruit salads
Grilled Chicken Sandwich with Pancetta and Arugula
Mediterranean Potato Salad 128 on Focaccia 180
German Potato Salad 130 Turkey Club Sandwich 181
Tabbouleh Salad 131 New England Lobster Roll 182
Lentil and Walnut Salad 131 Pan Bagnat 185
Israeli Couscous and Heirloom Grains 132
cold sandwiches
Corona Bean Salad with Basil 133
Bahn Saigon (Saigon Subs) 186
Mixed Bean and Grain Salad 134
Muffuletta 188
Fattoush 135
Mediterranean Salad Sandwich 189
Fall Panzanella Salad 136
Curried Chicken Salad Open-Faced Sandwich 189
Soba Noodle Salad 139
Couscous and Curried Vegetable Salad 140 tea sandwiches and crostini
Black Bean Salad 142 Bruschetta with Oven-Roasted Tomatoes and
Fontina 190
Thai-Style Green Papaya Salad 143
Fig and Walnut Bruschetta 191
composed salads and warm salads
Egg Salad Tea Sandwich 192
Crème Fraîche Chicken Salad 143
Smoked Salmon Tea Sandwich 192
Salad of Crab and Avocado 144
Roquefort Butter and Red Pear
Baked Goat Cheese with Garden Lettuces, Roasted Tea Sandwiches 193
Figs, Pears, and Toasted Almonds 147
Watercress Tea Sandwich 194
Avocado, Tomato, and Corn Salad 148
Cucumber Tea Sandwich 194
Buffalo Chicken Salad 149
Marinated Salmon with Fennel, Capers, and Crème
Corona Bean and Grilled Baby Octopus Salad 150 Fraîche on Pumpernickel Bread 196
recipe contents vii
Roast Beef, Brie, and Caramelized Onion Bacon and Grape Confi t 248
Sandwiches 197
Pork Rillettes 249
Avocado, Brie, Sprouts, and Country Bacon on
Croissant 198 6 sausage
Cucumber, Watercress, and Brie with Apricot
Chutney on Walnut Bread 199 basic grind sausages
Breakfast Sausage 268
5 cured and smoked foods
Green Chile Sausage 269
cured foods Venison Sausage 270
Sweet Italian Sausage 271
Basic Poultry Brine 214
German Bratwurst 272
Basic Meat Brine (Beef and Pork) 214
Merguez 273
Basic Seafood Brine 214
Szechwan-Style Sausage 274
Basic Fish Brine 215
Gravlax 215 cold-smoked and hot-smoked sausages
Norwegian Beet and Horseradish Cure 216
Kassler Liverwurst 275
Pastrami-Cured Salmon 218
Spicy Lamb Sausage 276
cold-smoked foods Summer Sausage 277
Landjäger 278
Smoked Shrimp 219
Smoked Duck Sausage 280
Smoked Salmon 220
Cajun Andouille Sausage 281
Fennel-Cured Salmon 222
Colombian Chorizo 282
Southwest-Style Smoked Salmon 223
Frankfurter 283
Beef Jerky 224
Bologna 284
Chile-Rubbed Tenderloin 226
Kielbasa Krakowska 285
hot-smoked foods
poached sausages
Citrus-Scented Hot-Smoked Sturgeon 227
French Garlic Sausage 286
Hot-Smoked Rainbow Trout 228
Fine Swiss Bratwurst 287
Smoked Turkey Breast 230
Mortadella 288
Smoked Duck 231
Chicken and Vegetable Sausage 290
Asian-Style Tea-Smoked Moulard Duck
Breasts 232 Braunschweiger 291
Smoked Ham Hocks 233 Seafood Sausage 293
Basic Bacon 234 Apple and Blood Sausage 294
Smoked Pork Loin 235 Duck and Foie Gras Sausage 295
Tasso (Cajun-Style Smoked Pork) 236 Garlic Sausage 296
Smoked Whole Ham 237
dried sausages and fermented sausages
Smoke-Roasted Sirloin of Beef 238
Dried Chorizo 297
Carolina Barbecued Pork Butt 239
7 terrines, pâtés, galantines,
dried foods and foods preserved in fat
Pancetta 240 and roulades
Roman-Style Air-Dried Beef 241
terrines
Cured Sardines 242
Pâté Grand-Mère 320
Duck Confi t 244
Pâté de Campagne 321
Pecan-Crusted Duck Confi t with Bread Pudding
and Baby Spinach Salad with Shallot-Garlic Chicken Liver Pâté 322
Vinaigrette 246
Smørrebrød Leverpostej 323
viii garde manger