Table Of Content(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:4)(cid:9)(cid:6)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:5)
(cid:6)(cid:5)(cid:13)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:14)(cid:8)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:15)(cid:4)(cid:12)(cid:16)(cid:4)(cid:15)(cid:9)(cid:9)(cid:15)(cid:4)(cid:17)(cid:12)(cid:9)(cid:8)(cid:14)(cid:18)(cid:4)(cid:19)(cid:10)(cid:19)(cid:17)(cid:20)
(cid:2)(cid:2)(cid:2)
(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:5)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:6)
(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:15)(cid:9)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:2)(cid:5)(cid:13)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:2)(cid:10)(cid:10)(cid:2)(cid:5)(cid:17)(cid:13)(cid:10)(cid:9)(cid:15)(cid:18)(cid:5)(cid:19)(cid:11)(cid:19)(cid:17)(cid:20)
Sadhan Chandra Ray
W
OODHEAD PUBLISHING INDIA PVT LTD
New Delhi ● Cambridge ● Oxford ● Philadelphia
Published by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd., G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28, Ansari Road
Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002, India
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Woodhead Publishing Limited, 80 High Street, Sawston, Cambridge,
CB22 3HJ UK
Woodhead Publishing USA 1518 Walnut Street, Suite1100, Philadelphia
www.woodheadpublishing.com
First published 2011, Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
© Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd., 2012
This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded
sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission. Reasonable efforts have
been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the
publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials. Neither
the authors nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with this publication,
shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or
alleged to be caused by this book.
Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any
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Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. for such copying.
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trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent
to infringe.
Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd. ISBN: 978-93-80308-16-6
Woodhead Publishing Ltd. ISBN: 9780857091086
Typeset by Sunshine Graphics, New Delhi
Printed and bound by Replika Press, New Delhi
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The knitting technology has been playing a very vital role in our life style
since 1000 B.C. It not only produces fabrics and shaped garments for
apparel and household purposes but also for various technical end
applications. Knowledge developed in the past, particularly in the last 50
years in the field of knitting technology has contributed significantly to
the developments of state-of-the-art machinery on one hand and highly
sophisticated and specialised textile products on the other. The basic
principles of knitting technology as well as the recent developments in
knitting are now-a-days included in the syllabi of the textile related
undergraduate and postgraduate courses all over the country.
Prof. (Dr.) Sadhan Chandra Ray has written a textbook on
“Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology” to cater to the need
of the students, teachers and professionals dealing with knitting technology.
I appreciate the efforts of Prof. Ray for precisely covering the various
aspects of knitting technology in his book and Woodhead Publishing India
Pvt. Ltd. Delhi for publishing the book. Suggestions are invited from the
readers for the improvement of the book in future.
Kolkata Prof. (Dr.) Dhrubajyoti Chattopadhyay
August, 2011 Pro-Vice Chancellor (Academic)
University of Calcutta
(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:4)
Clothing is one of our basic needs in life. The second most important
technique of manufacturing either clothing or clothing material is the
knitting. Apparently, knitting is a very simple technique of making fabric
or clothing, but it has complexity too. The more we study and the more we
research on knitting, more and more mysteries of knitting are being
unveiled and we become more confident to control the technology of
knitting for producing from simpler to complex fabrics for diversified
applications in addition to traditional apparels even at a very high speed.
Moreover, knowledge is now recognized as key input for future prosperity
of knitting like other production techniques. During my long teaching
experience I always have felt the need for a suitable text book on knitting
technology encompassing together all scientific information available in
other books and journals at one place in a form that is lucid and easily
comprehensible to students and researchers. So the basic aim of writing
this book was to precisely combine the fundamental principles of knitting
and related developments. It is hoped that this publication will fulfill the
need for an updated comprehensive publication which remained overdue
since long.
The book introduces the basic concepts of knitting to a student with no
exposure of knitting as well as the aspects of knitting science to a
postgraduate student or researcher for better understanding the knitting
technology and gaining an insight in to the mechanics of loop formation
in knitting. Emphasis has also been given on recent developments and
complicated things in knitting. Naturally, a number of ideas from previous
books and journals have been gained on this subject to enrich the present
book. I am indebted to all these authors.
Presently, knitting technology has been included in the syllabi of textile
technology and allied courses in various undergraduate and postgraduate
disciplines. Keeping in view the above mentioned requirements, I have
endeavoured to bring out the present textbook based on my experience of
teaching and research in this particular branch of textiles. I have attempted
to incorporate the following notable features in the text like basics of weft
and warp knitting, production of different knitted structures, latest
developments in knitting (machine, process and products), knitting science,
(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:9)(cid:9) (cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:4)
mechanics of knitting, knitting related calculations, traditional and
objective measurements of knitted fabrics, concept of green business in
knitting, etc. For easy comprehension, the text has been supplemented by
illustrations, tables and photographs wherever possible as well as a
bibliography at the end. The book is intended for a wide spectrum of
readers, including students, researchers and academics, as well as
professionals in the clothing and textile industries.
I have personally gathered all the information, arranged those in a
particular sequence, typed the manuscript, prepared all the figures except
a few and repeatedly checked the whole matter in order to achieve good
quality with minimum errors. However, all the readers are requested to
suggest necessary corrections and modifications for upgrading the quality
of the book in future publication.
Finally, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to my numerous
teachers, students, friends, colleagues, well wishers and my family
members who have contributed directly or indirectly by way of their
inspiration, constructive suggestion and useful discussion for writing this
book.
Prof. Sadhan Chandra Ray
Department of Jute and Fibre Technology
Institute of Jute Technology
University of Calcutta
35, Ballygunge Circular Road
Kolkata 700019
(cid:2)
(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:4)(cid:3)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:8)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:9)(cid:10)
Abstract: Textile fabric is defined as two dimensional plane-like
structure made of textile materials, having reasonable strength,
elongation, flexibility, etc., used for different applications,
particularly for apparels. Knitting is the second most popular
technique of fabric or garment formation by inter-looping one or one
set of yarns, and its share in fabric production is about 20%. In
knitting continuous length of yarn is converted into vertically
intermeshed loops either by hand or by machine. So in order to step
into the subject of knitting, the history of knitting technology, the
growth of knitting industry in India and the comparison of knitting
and weaving have been highlighted in this chapter.
Key words: knitting, weft knitting, warp knitting, loop, fabric,
needle.
(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:2) (cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:6)(cid:12)(cid:8)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:6)(cid:8)(cid:3)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:14)(cid:6)(cid:12)(cid:15)(cid:13)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:17)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:12)(cid:11)
The human beings, impelled by nature and compelled by necessity, sought
a better kind of material than barks or leaves of trees and hides of animals
to protect their bodies from inclemencies of variable weather as well as to
protect the sex organs from the magical influence, which resulted the
invention of the technology of manufacturing textile fabric/clothing. The
available documents of human civilization that took place in different parts
of the world confirmed that invention of the technology of manufacturing
textile fabric (clothing) happened about 7000 years ago. Textile fabric is
defined as a two dimensional (2D) plane-like structure (may be woven,
knitted, nonwoven, braided, etc.) made of textile materials (fibre or yarn
or their combination) having reasonable strength, elongation, flexibility,
etc., used for different applications, particularly for apparels. Recently,
fabrics are also made in three dimensions (3D) and widely used in technical
applications including medical textiles in the form of artificial cardio-
vascular tube as well as different joints and tissues of the human body.
Weaving, the technology of producing fabric by interlacing two sets of
threads (warp andweft), is the oldest technique of fabric formation, and
its share in total fabric production is about 70%. Knitting, the second old
(cid:12)
(cid:2) (cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:5)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:15)(cid:9)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:13)(cid:17)(cid:5)(cid:16)(cid:10)(cid:10)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:18)(cid:13)(cid:10)(cid:9)(cid:15)(cid:19)(cid:5)(cid:20)(cid:11)(cid:20)(cid:18)(cid:21)
technology of fabric formation as well as equally popular to people, is the
technique of fabric formation from single set of yarn (may be one or any
higher number) by inter-looping, and its share in fabric production is about
20%. The other techniques of fabric formation are nonwoven, netting,
crocheting, braiding, etc., spreading throughout the world for producing
variety of fabrics. When the fabric is cut and sewn to give the shape
according to the contour of the human body, it is called clothing or garment.
Knitting technology has the capacity to produce clothing without cutting
and sewing.
(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4) (cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:7)(cid:13)(cid:9)(cid:6)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:14)(cid:15)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:13)(cid:6)(cid:16)
Knitting is the second most popular technique of fabric or garment
formation by inter-looping one or one set of yarns. Continuous length of
yarn is converted into vertically intermeshed loops either by hand or by
machine. The term “Knitting” has been evolved from the Saxon word
‘Cnyttan’ which in turn was derived from the ancient Sanskrit word
‘Nahyat’ [1]. According to the direction of movement of yarn during loop
formation, knitting can be classified as weft knitting and warp knitting.
Out of two types of knitting, weft knitting is widely used in India and
abroad. The technique of knitting by using two sticks was invented about
3000 years ago and the same was mainly practiced by the women of royal
families for making gloves, stockings and caps. Knitting became a
profession only when male got involved around 1500 AD, and gradually
the teaching on knitting started. The knitting process was first mechanized
(hand driven flat bed machine) by Rev. William Lee in 1589. Circular
knitting machine came in the market around 1850 and knitting industry
started in India at Kolkata in 1892.
(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:17) (cid:18)(cid:13)(cid:19)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:8)(cid:20)(cid:14)(cid:9)(cid:21)(cid:14)(cid:15)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:13)(cid:6)(cid:16)
The concept of knitting for converting yarn in to fabric/garment was
visualized long back may be about 3000 years ago and the same was
implemented by some curious and innovative minds using two sticks or
needles. Such technique is of course known as hand knitting but there is
no record of the name of the inventor of knitting. Hand knitting is a slow
process and still in practice. Rev. William Lee started to develop a frame
around 1561 for continuing knitting process at a faster rate using a large
number of needles. At the end of 3 years’ excessive study, patience and
toil, Lee was enabled to make a course or knit upon the frame and that too
at a speed of 600 loops per minute using worsted yarns. The frame was
further perfected and speed of loop formation was increased before its
commercial appearance in 1589. Since then modifications on the knitting
(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:4)(cid:3)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:8)(cid:3)(cid:10)(cid:11) (cid:12)
frame have been continued for making better to better machine for
producing quality knitted fabrics at much higher speeds [2–4]. As gathered
from the different sources the history of chronological development in
knitting technology may be summed as detailed in the Table 1.1.
(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:8)(cid:7)(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:11)(cid:13)(cid:6)(cid:14)(cid:15)(cid:11)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:11)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:16)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:6)(cid:18)(cid:8)
(cid:21)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:6)(cid:10)(cid:22)(cid:23)(cid:11)(cid:24)(cid:7) (cid:25)(cid:24)(cid:5)(cid:26)(cid:7)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:11)(cid:13)(cid:6)(cid:14)(cid:15)(cid:11)(cid:16)(cid:5)
(cid:27)(cid:28)(cid:28)(cid:28)(cid:7)(cid:29)(cid:30) (cid:31)(cid:11)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:16)(cid:3) (cid:26)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:12)(cid:11)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:7)!(cid:8)(cid:7)(cid:26)(cid:4)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:16)(cid:13)(cid:8)(cid:7)"(cid:20)(cid:24)(cid:16)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)#
(cid:27)(cid:27)(cid:5)(cid:20)(cid:7)(cid:30)(cid:11)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:26)(cid:7)(cid:8) $(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:18)(cid:13)(cid:6)(cid:12)(cid:11)(cid:4)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:26)(cid:24)(cid:13)(cid:4)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:26)(cid:7)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:12)(cid:3)(cid:19)(cid:11)
(cid:27)%(cid:5)(cid:20)(cid:7)(cid:30)(cid:11)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:26)(cid:7)(cid:8) $(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:19)(cid:24)(cid:14)(cid:4)&(cid:7)(cid:18)(cid:13)(cid:6)(cid:12)(cid:11)(cid:4)(cid:7)(cid:24)(cid:16)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:6)(cid:19)(cid:17)(cid:4)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:15)(cid:7)’(cid:6)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:7)(cid:24)(cid:16)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:3)(cid:13)(cid:17)
(cid:27)((cid:5)(cid:20)(cid:7)(cid:30)(cid:11)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:26)(cid:7)(cid:8) )(cid:24)(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:18)(cid:6)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:12)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:12)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:24)(cid:16)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)!(cid:11)(cid:19)(cid:24)(cid:15)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:11)(cid:4)(cid:4)(cid:3)(cid:6)(cid:16)
(cid:27)(*(cid:28)(cid:7)+, (cid:31)(cid:11)(cid:24)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:11)(cid:10)
(cid:27)(*-(cid:7)+, $(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:24)(cid:15)(cid:11)(cid:7)’(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:20)(cid:7)!(cid:11)(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:16)(cid:11)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:7)’(cid:24)(cid:4)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:12)(cid:11)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:7)!(cid:8)(cid:7).(cid:11)(cid:12)/(cid:7)0(cid:3)(cid:13)(cid:13)(cid:3)(cid:24)(cid:15)(cid:7)1(cid:11)(cid:11)2
1(cid:11)(cid:11)3(cid:4)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:24)(cid:15)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:11)(cid:15)(cid:24)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:26)(cid:16)(cid:24)(cid:13)(cid:5)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:24)!(cid:6)(cid:26)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:27)((cid:28)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:11)(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:4)
(cid:27)4((cid:28)(cid:7)+, $(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:10)(cid:26)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:7)(cid:11)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:24)!(cid:13)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:20)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:7)5$
(cid:27)4(*(cid:7)+, 6(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:10)(cid:26)(cid:19)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:6)(cid:16)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:10)(cid:6)(cid:26)!(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:7)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:7)!(cid:8)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:3)!(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:24)(cid:15)(cid:11)(cid:7)!(cid:8)(cid:7)7/(cid:7)8(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:26)(cid:5)(cid:5)
(cid:27)49-(cid:7)+, .(cid:6)(cid:5)(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:7)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:12)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:15)(cid:24)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:11)
(cid:27)*:4(cid:7)+, 6(cid:16)(cid:12)(cid:11)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:6)(cid:16)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:13)(cid:24)(cid:5)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:7)(cid:16)(cid:11)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:7)!(cid:8)(cid:7))(cid:24)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:20)(cid:11)’(cid:7)(cid:31)(cid:6)’(cid:16)(cid:4)(cid:11)(cid:16)(cid:10)
(cid:27)*((cid:28)(cid:7)+, (cid:21)(cid:6)’(cid:11)(cid:7);(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:12)(cid:11)(cid:16)(cid:7)(cid:19)(cid:3)(cid:7)(cid:19)(cid:26)(cid:13)(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:24)(cid:15)(cid:11)(cid:7)’(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:20)(cid:7)(cid:12)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:19)(cid:24)(cid:13)(cid:7)!(cid:11)(cid:10)
(cid:27)*9<(cid:7)+, =;!(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:13)(cid:24)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:15)(cid:24)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:11)
(cid:27)*-%(cid:7)+, (cid:2)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:3)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:10)(cid:26)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:7)6(cid:16)(cid:10)(cid:3)(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:24)(cid:5)(cid:7)$(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:17)(cid:24)(cid:5)(cid:24)
(cid:27)-(cid:28)(cid:28)(cid:7)+, +(cid:26)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:15)(cid:24)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:19)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:6)(cid:6)(cid:5);’(cid:11)(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:7)"(cid:4)(cid:6)(cid:19)(cid:17)(cid:4)#(cid:7)(cid:15)(cid:24)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:11)
(cid:27)-(cid:27)((cid:7)+, (cid:31)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:19)(cid:6)(cid:5)(cid:7)’(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:15)(cid:24)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:11)(cid:7)!(cid:26)(cid:3)(cid:13)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:7)>(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:15)(cid:24)(cid:16)(cid:8)
(cid:27)-:4(cid:7)+, (cid:30)(cid:6)(cid:15)(cid:15)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:19)(cid:3)(cid:24)(cid:13)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:19)(cid:6)(cid:5)(cid:7)’(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:15)(cid:24)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:11)
(cid:27)-(<(cid:7)+, .(cid:24)(cid:4)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:11)(cid:13)(cid:7)’(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:15)(cid:24)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:11)
(cid:27)-9<(cid:7)+, ?(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:19)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:19)(cid:7)(cid:16)(cid:11)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:11)(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:19)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:6)(cid:16)
(cid:27)-4(cid:28)(cid:7)+, ,(cid:6)(cid:26)!(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:16)(cid:11)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:7)!(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:7)’(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:15)(cid:24)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:9)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:10)(cid:26)(cid:19)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:11)(cid:24)(cid:15)(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:4)(cid:4)
(cid:14)(cid:24)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:11)(cid:4)&(cid:7)!(cid:7)(cid:24)(cid:4)(cid:4)(cid:3)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:11)(cid:4)(cid:7)(cid:24)(cid:16)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:14)(cid:6)(cid:19)(cid:17)(cid:11)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:4)/
(cid:27)-*4(cid:7)+, .(cid:11)(cid:13)(cid:24)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:11)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:16)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:6)(cid:18)(cid:8)
(cid:27)---(cid:7)+, ,(cid:6)(cid:26)!(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:16)(cid:11)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:7)!(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:7)’(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)(cid:15)(cid:24)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:11)(cid:7)’(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:20)(cid:7)(cid:11)(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:19)(cid:5)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:19)(cid:7)"(cid:21)(cid:3)(cid:11)@(cid:6)#
A(cid:24)(cid:19) (cid:26)(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:10)
%(cid:28)(cid:28)<(cid:7)+, )(cid:29)6(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:11)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:16)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:6)(cid:18)(cid:8)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:3)(cid:24)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:16)(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:7)’(cid:3)(cid:5)(cid:20)(cid:7)(cid:15)(cid:24)B(cid:3)(cid:15)(cid:26)(cid:15)(cid:7):%(cid:7)(cid:19)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:6)(cid:26)(cid:7)(cid:7)(cid:19)(cid:20)(cid:24)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:11)
(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:3)(cid:16)(cid:18)(cid:13)(cid:11)(cid:7)(cid:19)(cid:6)(cid:26)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:11)
(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4) (cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:14)(cid:15)(cid:13)(cid:16)(cid:17)(cid:8)(cid:18)(cid:13)(cid:19)(cid:8)(cid:7)(cid:20)(cid:20)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:21)
Since the inception of knitting, hand knitting technology is in existence
till date and will continue its journey for years together. Basically two
pins (needles) are used for making loops as well as inter-looping. As shown
in Fig. 1.1(a), the pin ‘P1’ gripped by left hand of the knitter is retaining
the previously formed loop and the pin ‘P2’ gripped by the right hand of
the knitter is about to form the next loop. Figure 1.1(b) shows that the
newly formed loop (NL) has been drawn through previously formed loop
(OL). The resultant fabric, a matrix of rows and columns of loops, is formed
by creating a single element in each knitting cycle. Hence, if a fabric needs
to have 100 loops in each row, then 100 cycles of knitting operation would
(cid:2) (cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:5)(cid:10)(cid:7)(cid:11)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:13)(cid:7)(cid:6)(cid:14)(cid:7)(cid:5)(cid:15)(cid:9)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:13)(cid:17)(cid:5)(cid:16)(cid:10)(cid:10)(cid:16)(cid:5)(cid:18)(cid:13)(cid:10)(cid:9)(cid:15)(cid:19)(cid:5)(cid:20)(cid:11)(cid:20)(cid:18)(cid:21)
be needed to produce one course. All these 100 loops are to be held by one
pin/needle as shown in Fig. 1.1(c) and subsequently the loops are to be
transferred to the other pin/needle for making the next row. Although the
principle is very simple, but skill is required to prevent slipping off of the
loops at the tip of the straight and pointed pins. Moreover, the nature of
structure of the knitted fabric completely depends on the skill and artistic
mind of the knitter.
(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4) (cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:10)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:14)(cid:12)(cid:15)(cid:16)(cid:7)(cid:17)(cid:17)(cid:7)(cid:16)(cid:18)
For knitting a fabric, only one or one set of yarns is to be supplied to the
knitting machine. Depending upon the direction of movement of yarn
during loop formation with relation to the direction of fabric formation,
knitting technique is classified as warp knitting and weft knitting. The
position of yarn(s) with respect to the length of the resultant fabric is shown
in Fig. 1.2.
Weft knitting machines produce four basic knitted structures such as
plain, rib, interlock and purl. Plain structure is produced in single jersey
machine whereas the other three are produced in double jersey machines.
(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:2)(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:6)(cid:4)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:9)(cid:13)(cid:10)(cid:11)(cid:13)(cid:12)(cid:13)(cid:5)(cid:14)(cid:13)(cid:15)(cid:5)(cid:4)(cid:16)(cid:16)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:17)(cid:13)(cid:18)(cid:19)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:17)(cid:13)(cid:7)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:20)
