Table Of Content01 542699 FM.qxd 11/14/03 9:41 AM Page i
Vancouver &
Victoria
2004
by Shawn Blore & Alexandra de Vries
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
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—Knight Ridder Newspapers
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ISBN 0-7645-4269-9
ISSN 1045-9316
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Front cover photo: Totem pole in Vancouver’s Stanley Park
Back cover photo: Victoria’s Butchart Gardens
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Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Vancouver & Victoria 1
1 The Best of Vancouver & Victoria 3
1 Frommer’s Favorite 3 Frommer’s Favorite Experiences
Vancouver Experiences . . . . . . . .4 Beyond Vancouver & Victoria . . .10
The Best Websites for 4 Two Trips of a Lifetime . . . . . . . .10
Vancouver & Victoria . . . . . . . . . .5 5 Best Vancouver Hotel Bets . . . . .11
A Short History of
6 Best Victoria Hotel Bets . . . . . . .12
First Nations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
7 Best Vancouver Dining Bets . . . .14
2 Frommer’s Favorite
8 Best Victoria Dining Bets . . . . . .16
Victoria Experiences . . . . . . . . . . .9
2 Planning Your Trip to Vancouver & Victoria 18
1 Visitor Information & 4 Insurance,Health & Safety . . . . .30
Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . .18 5 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .31
2 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 6 Getting to Vancouver . . . . . . . . .33
The Canadian Dollar & 7 Getting to Victoria . . . . . . . . . . .37
the U.S. Dollar . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . .38
3 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Frommers.com: The
Vancouver & Victoria Complete Travel Resource . . . . .39
Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . .23
9 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . .40
3 Getting to Know Vancouver 42
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Fast Facts: Vancouver . . . . . . . .51
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
4 Where to Stay in Vancouver 55
1 Downtown & Yaletown . . . . . . .55 3 The West Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
Bed & Breakfast Registries . . . . .56 4 The North Shore (North
2 The West End . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Vancouver & West Vancouver) . . .73
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iv CONTENTS
5 Where to Dine in Vancouver 74
1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . .74 6 The East Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
2 Downtown & Yaletown . . . . . . .76 7 The North Shore . . . . . . . . . . . .96
3 Gastown & Chinatown . . . . . . .84 8 Coffee,Sweets & Ice Cream . . . .97
4 The West End . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Caffeine Nation . . . . . . . . . . . . .98
5 The West Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89
6 Exploring Vancouver 99
Sightseeing Suggestions . . . . . . .99 4 Vancouver’s Plazas & Parks . . .118
1 The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . .102 5 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .121
Granville’s Greatest Hits . . . . . .105 6 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .124
The OtherSuspension Bridge . . .111 7 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . .127
2 Architectural Highlights . . . . . .112 8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .136
3 Neighborhoods to Explore . . . .115
7 Vancouver Strolls 137
Walking Tour 1: Downtown Walking Tour 3: Kitsilano,
& the West End . . . . . . . . . . . .137 Granville Island & Yaletown . . .146
Walking Tour 2: Gastown
& Chinatown . . . . . . . . . . . . .142
8 Vancouver Shopping 152
1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .152 2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .153
9 Vancouver After Dark 164
1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . .164 4 Dance Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173
2 Laughter & Music . . . . . . . . . .168 5 Gay & Lesbian Bars . . . . . . . . .175
3 Bars,Pubs & Other 6 Other Diversions . . . . . . . . . . .176
Watering Holes . . . . . . . . . . . .169
10 Getting to Know Victoria 178
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .182
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .181 Fast Facts: Victoria . . . . . . . . .184
11 Where to Stay in Victoria 186
1 The Inner Harbour & Nearby . . .186 2 Downtown & Old Town . . . . . .194
The Best Bed-and-Breakfast 3 Outside the Central Area . . . . .198
Registries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188
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CONTENTS v
12 Where to Dine in Victoria 202
1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . .202 Taking Afternoon Tea . . . . . . . .206
2 The Inner Harbour . . . . . . . . . .203 Finding High-Octane Coffee . . .210
3 Downtown & Old Town . . . . . .205 4 Outside the Central Area . . . . .212
13 Exploring Victoria 214
Sightseeing Suggestions . . . . . .214 Heading North to a
1 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . .215 Provincial Park, a Native
Village & Some Wineries . . . . .222
On the Lookout: Victoria’s
Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219 2 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .225
3 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .226
4 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . .228
14 Victoria Strolls & a Biking Tour 234
Walking Tour 1: Walking Tour 2:
The Inner Harbour . . . . . . . . . .234 The Old Town & Chinatown . . .238
Biking Tour: Dallas Road . . . . .242
15 Victoria Shopping 245
1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .245 2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .245
16 Victoria After Dark 251
1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . .251 3 Lounges,Bars & Pubs . . . . . . .255
2 Music & Dance Clubs . . . . . . . .253 4 Gay & Lesbian Bars . . . . . . . . .256
17 Side Trips:The Best of British Columbia 257
1 Whistler:One of North 3 Ucluelet,Tofino &
America’s Premier Pacific Rim National Park
Ski Resorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .257 (Long Beach Section) . . . . . . . .281
2 Bamfield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .278 B.C. Ranch Land . . . . . . . . . . .285
The West Coast Trail . . . . . . . .280 Two Trips of a Lifetime . . . . . .291
4 The Gulf Islands . . . . . . . . . . .292
Index 303
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List of Maps
Southern British Columbia 6 Walking Tour 3: Kitsilano, Granville
Greater Vancouver 46 Island & Yaletown 147
Where to Stay in Downtown Where to Stay in Victoria 187
Vancouver 58 Where to Dine in Victoria 204
Where to Dine in Downtown Victoria Attractions 217
Vancouver 78
Walking Tour 1: The Inner
Downtown Vancouver Harbour 235
Attractions 100
Walking Tour 2: The Old Town &
Stanley Park 103 Chinatown 239
Granville Island 107 Southwestern British Columbia 259
Walking Tour 1: Downtown & Whistler Valley 261
the West End 139
Whistler Village 262
Walking Tour 2: Gastown &
Pacific Rim National Park 283
Chinatown 143
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An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria 2004
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
About the Authors
A native of California and resident by turns of Ottawa, Amsterdam, Moscow, and (for
nearly the past decade) Vancouver, Shawn Bloreis a newspaper journalist, award-winning
magazine writer, and author of the bestselling Vancouver: Secrets of the City. He is also a
co-author of Frommer’s Canada, Frommer’s Brazil, andFrommer’s Portable Rio de Janeiro.
Alexandra de Vriestook her first intercontinental flight at 6 weeks and developed a taste
for travel early on. A resident by turns of Amsterdam and Rio de Janeiro, she now lives in
Vancouver and reports on West Coast culture and places for Frommer’s readers. She is also
the co-author of Frommer’s Brazil andFrommer’s Portable Rio de Janeiro.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Irreverent Guide to Vancouver
Frommer’s Vancouver with Kids
Frommer’s British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies
Frommer’s Canada
Vancouver & Victoria For Dummies
The Unofficial Guide to Bed & Breakfasts and Country Inns
in the Northwest
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Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
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What’s New in
Vancouver & Victoria
I
n the summer of 2003, Vancouver the only drawback was a kind of pastel
was awarded hosting rights to the ’80s decor, but the furnishings in the
2010 Olympic Winter Games. Still top two floors have been fully reno-
6 years away, preparations are already vated. The owner intends to continue
visible, and the excitement in the city renovating until the entire inn is fully
is palpable. Prices on real estate, updated.
restaurants, and hotels are sure to go The newest, nicest B&B in Kitsi-
up. Fortunately, at present, fabulous lano recently opened on a green and
restaurants and accommodations are leafy street just 10 minutes from the
still a steal in Vancouver and Victoria, beach. TheCamelot Inn (2212 Larch
compared to Toronto or Montreal. St.; &604/739-6941)featuresrooms
lovingly restored to their early 1900s
VANCOUVER Accommodations
condition, improved only with the
The Gallery Floor at the Listel Van-
couver (1300 Robson St.; & 800/ addition of Jacuzzi tubs, the perfect
prelude to the softest of sleigh beds.
663-5491 or 604/684-8461) proved
such a hit with guests that a museum Dining Vancouver’s dining scene
floor was the next logical step. For continues to churn, especially in Yale-
the past several years, guests on the town. Elixir (350 Davie St.; & 604/
penultimate Gallery floor have been 642-0577) is a traditional French
able to enjoy original works of art brasserie that serves classic, even sim-
from Vancouver’s Buschlen Mowatt ple, brasserie food prepared with
Gallery, temporarily displayed in the excellent local Vancouver ingredients.
Listel’s ever-so-tasteful rooms. Guests Enjoying an appetizer at Elixir’s long
on the top floor now have the round brass bar has become the way to
same artistic privilege, but the objets begin an evening downtown.
d’art on display in the rooms come Just a cobblestone or two up the
from the vast collection of the UBC street lies Glowbal Grill and Satay
Museum of Anthropology. As with the Bar (1079 Mainland St.; & 604/
Gallery rooms, Museum rooms con- 602-0835), a beautiful room with
tain detailed information on the artist beautiful people, and a cuisine that
whose works are on display. unashamedly cruises the world for
The Sunset Inn Travel Apartments tastes and flavors that get fused
(1111 Burnaby St.; &800/786-1997 together into small-plate meals.
or 604/688-2474) has always been a Over on Robson Street, the latest
steal, just a couple of blocks from Eng- thing in Japanese food is Hapa
lish Bay on the edge of the residential Izakaya (1479 Robson St.; & 604/
West End and offering apartment-size 689-4272), where the cuisine features
accommodations (with full kitchens, inventive, nontraditional dishes such
dining tables, and balconies) at a as bacon-wrapped asparagus or negit-
more-than-reasonable price. For years ori, fresh tuna belly chopped with
