Frommer's Turkey

446 Pages·2008·5.287 MB·English

by  Lynn A. Levine

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Turkey
5th Edition
by Lynn A. Levine
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
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“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
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About the Author
Lynn A. Levineis author of Frommer’s Istanbuland has contributed to a number of other
titles, including Frommer’s Italy from $90 a Dayand Frommer’s Southeast Asia.Her work
has appeared in the Boston Globe, Elle, MSNBC/Newsweek Budget Travel, Travel Holiday,
and the UN Chronicle.When not writing about travel, she is a communications consultant
for UNICEF, the UNDP, and IFAW. She also runs the website www.talkingturkey.com.
Published by:
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ISBN: 978-0-470-24761-7
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Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Turkey 1
1 The Best of Turkey 7
1 The Most Unforgettable Travel 5 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
6 The Best One-of-a-Kind Places
2 The Best Small Towns . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
3 The Best Ruins & Archaeological 7 The Best Stuff to Bring Home . . . . . .16
Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 The Best Turkey Websites . . . . . . . . .17
4 The Best Museums,Mosques &
Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
2 Planning Your Trip to Turkey 18
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Important Tips for Single Women
2 Visitor Information & Maps . . . . . . . .22 Travelers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
3 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 10 Staying Connected . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Frommers.com: The Complete Travel
Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Travel Tip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
11 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
All About the Blue Voyage . . . . . . . .42
5 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
12 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
6 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Don’t Let Taxi Drivers Take
What Things Cost in Istanbul . . . . . .31
You for a Ride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
7 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
13 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .48
8 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
14 Recommended Books & Films . . . . . .50
9 Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Fast Facts: Turkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
3 Suggested Turkey Itineraries 60
1 The Best of Turkey in 1 Week . . . . . .60 2 The Best of Turkey in 2 Weeks . . . . . .63
4 Istanbul 65
Frommer’s Favorite Istanbul Fast Facts: Istanbul . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 A Mystery Worthy of Agatha Christie
Istanbul’s Neighborhoods in Brief . . .71 Herself . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96
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iv CONTENTS
5 What to See & Do in Istanbul . . . . .105 Deconstructing the Turkish
700 Years of Turkish Jews . . . . . . .125 Carpet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
Take a Break in the Retaining Tax-Free Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
Wall of the Hippodrome . . . . . . . . .126 7 Istanbul After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
Steam Heat: Taking the Hamam . . .130 8 Side Trips from Istanbul . . . . . . . . .157
6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141 Water, Water Everywhere:
Caveat Emptor!Carpet-Buying Turkey’s Mineral Springs . . . . . . . . .166
Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145
5 Çanakkale,Gallipoli & the Troad 170
1 Çanakkale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170 3 Troy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180
2 The Gallipoli Battlefields 4 Bozcaada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183
(Gelibolu) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174 5 Assos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185
6 The Central & Southern Aegean Coasts (Greater Izmir) 188
1 Izmir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189 5 Ku@adasi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227
Fast Facts: Izmir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194 Day-Tripping to Miletus, Priene &
2 Bergama & Pergamum . . . . . . . . . .199 Didyma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230
3 Highlights of the Çe@me 6 Pamukkale & Hierapolis . . . . . . . . .233
Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 7 Bodrum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .238
4 Selçuk & Ephesus . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212 Fast Facts: Bodrum . . . . . . . . . . . . .242
Remember the Annual Festivals
of Selçuk! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .215
7 The Turquoise & Mediterranean Coasts 255
The Lycian Way & St. Paul’s Trail . . .256 5 Ka@ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .300
1 Marmaris & the Datça Peninsula . . .257 Kaleköy (Ancient Simena) . . . . . . . .303
2 Dalyan & Kaunos . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266 6 Demre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .309
Glorious Göcek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272 They Kidnapped the Wrong Guy . . .310
3 Fethiye & Ölüdeniz . . . . . . . . . . . . .272 7 Antalya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .312
4 Kalkan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290 Fast Facts:Antalya . . . . . . . . . . . . .316
8 Cappadocia & the Interior 331
1 Exploring the Region . . . . . . . . . . .331 The Caravansaries
2 Ürgüp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .336 of the Silk Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .352
A Grape for All Seasons: 5 Derinkuyu & Kaymakli . . . . . . . . . .354
Cappadocia’s Wines . . . . . . . . . . . .343 6 The Ihlara Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .356
3 Göreme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344 The “Whirling” Dervishes . . . . . . . .361
4 Üçhisar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .348
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CONTENTS v
9 Ankara 363
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .364 4 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . . . . .374
Fast Facts:Ankara . . . . . . . . . . . . .368 5 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378
2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .369 6 Ankara After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . .379
Father of Turkey: The Man Called 7 A Side Trip to the Hittite Capital
Atatürk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .370 of Hattu@a@ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380
3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .372
Appendix A:Turkey in Depth 384
1 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .384 The Kurdish Question . . . . . . . . . . .410
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .386 2 Arts,Culture & Music . . . . . . . . . . .411
Selçuk Sultans—The Rum Line . . . .394 3 Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .414
The Ottoman Sultans . . . . . . . . . . .395 A Restaurant Primer . . . . . . . . . . . .416
Süleyman the Magnificent: 4 An Overview of Islam . . . . . . . . . . .418
Pragmatic Statesman . . . . . . . . . . .396
Appendix B:A Glossary of Useful Turkish Phrases 420
1 Pronunciation Guide . . . . . . . . . . . .420 3 Glossary of Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . .422
2 Basic Vocabulary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .420 4 Menu Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .425
Index 429
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List of Maps
Turkey 9 Bodrum 239
Istanbul at a Glance 69 The Turquoise & Mediterranean
Coasts 258
The Old City Hotels &
Restaurants 83 Fethiye 273
Beyoglu Hotels & Restaurants 89 Antalya 313
Istanbul Attractions 106 Cappadocia 333
The Gallipoli Peninsula 175 Ürgüp 337
The Central & Southern Ankara Accommodations, Dining &
Aegean Coasts 189 Attractions 366
Izmir 191 Turkey’s Ancient Civilizations 385
Ephesus 213
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Acknowledgments
Special thanks are in order for a handful of incredibly wonderful and supportive individuals.
Thanks to Sirma, Sila, Aydin, Suha, Süleyman, and Hakan for their professional assistance and
personal friendship. Each has been instrumental in supporting me in my work on this guide and
in introducing me to the soul of Turkey. Warm thanks also go out to the people and the coun-
try of Turkey for exposing me to countless true friendships made during the course of working
in Turkey.
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and
more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information
with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda-
tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Turkey, 5th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially
true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making
your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi-
ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets,
all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Istanbul
Frommer’s European Cruises & Ports of Call
Frommer’s Greek Islands
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Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value,
service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state, and regional
guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your
time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three
stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to
the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very
highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you to the
great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists.
Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www.
frommers.comfor additional travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update
features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information avail-
able. At Frommers.com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bar-
gains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other
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• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
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What’s New in Turkey
I
f thoughts of a slow international econ- for admission to what is fast becoming
omy and ongoing insurgencies in one of the globe’s top destinations. Visas
Afghanistan and Iraq are holding you for Canadians now cost US$60, Brits pay
back, rest assured: Turkey has more than £10, and the fee for Aussies is up to
gracefully weathered the storm. The A$68. Kiwis get in for free. Helping to
nation’s economic growth rivals that of make the visa fees a bit less painful,
China, while tourism is up, up, up, for Turkey will be lowering its VAT rate,
the first time in several years. So in spite beginning in 2008, from 18% to 8%.
of somewhat inflated prices in compari- New for this edition is the inclusion of
son to previous years (bordering on conversion rates for both the U.S. dollar
shocking in Istanbul), Turkey still pres- and the British pound. Since the last
ents itself as one of the best, safest, easiest, installment of this book, the dollar has
and all-around rewarding destinations in plummeted from 1YTL = US$1.35 down
the region. to US$1.15.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP For com- Getting Around Rising prices are not
plete planning information, see chapter 2. the only consequence of the current frenzy
surrounding Turkish tourism. Renewed
Getting There Although the paint is
demand translates to the emergence of
barely dry on the Atatürk International
new (and old) ferry services. In the sum-
Airport, its international terminal under-
mer of 2007, Deniz Cruise & Ferry
went renovations in 2007. It must be a
Lines (www.denizline.com.tr) announced
result of the pressure created by increased
Istanbul-to-Bodrum cruises. Istanbul-to-
arrivals and departures, because Turkish
Izmir excursions were organized through
Airlines has spread out to the little-known
the summer of 2007. There is also a new
Sabiha Gökçen Airport, located on the
passenger ferry service from Istanbul to
outskirts of Istanbul on the Asian side of
Bursa. As a result of the inflow of cash
the Bosphorus. Flights are for now mostly
from tourism and foreign direct invest-
domestic, but budget-minded visitors may
ment, the government has invested
want to look into service offered by Pega-
in infrastructure projects that have
sus(from London, Bologna, and Vienna),
brought Turkey’s motorways up to Euro-
Easyjet (from London), Condor (from
pean standards.
Amsterdam), and Myair (from Milan).
Keep in mind that the bus ride into town ISTANBUL For complete coverage of
will add an additional 90 or so minutes to Istanbul, see chapter 4.
the trip. Getting Around A number of domes-
Visitor Information, Entry Require- tic airline start-ups are giving the stan-
ments & Money Entry visas for hold- dards a run for their money. These include
ers of American passports now cost $29 Pegasus(serving Izmir and Kayseri from
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2 WHAT’S NEW
Istanbul; www.flypgs.com), IZair (Istan- Safety Perhaps it’s indicative of eco-
bul to Izmir; www.izair.com.tr), and nomic growth, or of increased tourism
Atlasjet (serving Istanbul, Ankara, Antalya, creating more opportunity, but Istanbul
Bodrum, Çanakkale, Izmir, and so on; seems to be experiencing a new level of
www.atlasjet.com.tr), with fares as low as petty crime. It’s seeped into the otherwise
45YTL (US$39/£17). pastoral neighborhood of Sultanahmet,
A flurry of restoration and city where previously, crimes were committed
renewal projects are underway in Istan- by glorified gigolos with a wink and a
bul. Istiklal Caddesi is now completely smile. Not so now. Men walking alone are
repaved with flat marble blocks. Galip now at high risk of being mugged in dark
Dede Sokak, leading down from Tünel byways, and contents of purses are rou-
to the Galata Tower, is no longer danger- tinely disappearing. It seems as though
ous going; instead, it’s been newly paved the Big Bad City has arrived in the quiet,
with modern cobblestones and the side- leafy green neighborhoods of Istanbul’s
walks have been widened. Streets all over Old City. Take all the precautions you
the city that were formerly dusty and pot- would take visiting any major interna-
holed messes have also been newly cob- tional metropolis. See p. 35.
bled. One major improvement is the Where to Stay Those huge corporate
completion of the tramway all the way names like Marriott, InterContinental,
up to Kabata@, next to Dolmabahçe Radisson, and Starwood just couldn’t sit
Palace. This, together with the new by and watch the little boutique hotels
funicular connecting Kabata@ with Tak- (many of them enterprises created by cur-
sim Square, makes getting around the city rent and reformed carpet sellers) scoop up
(particularly between the Old City and all the hotel profits. The result is a sober-
the New) a snap (albeit a crowded one). It ing addition of more than 70 big-name
also completes the public transport net- hotels under construction in 2007 alone.
work connecting Atatürk Airport with Some highlights: The Apricot Hotel
the city. Still another funicularwas com- (& 0212/638-1658), which was forced
pleted over in the neighborhood of Eyüp,
to find new digs due to a change in build-
making that haul up the hill from the
ing ownership, is now in a more charm-
base of Pierre Loti Caddesi. Construction
ing spot around the corner. Several new
of the Marmaray Project, a 76km (47-
boutique hotels have opened in the Sul-
mile) rail that at its center will include a
tanahmet district of Istanbul, including
much-awaited connection from Taksim the very special Sultanhan (& 0212/
to the airport, is moving along as best as
516-3232) and the Ottoman Hotel
it can, given the most recent develop- (&0212/513-6150). The Four Seasons
ments. In the process of construction, (& 0212/638-8200) in Sultanahmet
workers unearthed the groundbreaking
somehow got permission to construct an
remains of a Theodesius-era port at
annex at the back of its property. The dig
Yenikapi and pre-classical artifacts at
(inevitably an archaeological excavation)
Sirkeci. Word of the discovery rever-
is under way. By publication of this
berated throughout the international
guide, the paint should probably be dry
archaeology community; at last count,
on the new Four Seasons the Bospho-
archaeologists had uncovered 24 ship-
rus,whose debut has been eagerly antici-
wrecks—the highest concentration of
pated since our last edition. Les Ottomans
wrecks in the world. The wooden broad- (&0212/359-1500) will be giving all of
beamed boats still have much of their
these new luxury properties a run for
cargo in them.
their money—though with only 10 units,