Frommer's Peru

482 Pages·2008·7.922 MB·English

by  Neil Edward Schlecht

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Peru
4th Edition
by Neil Edward Schlecht
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
03_257104-flast.qxp 6/18/08 2:24 PM Page viii
01_257104-ffirs.qxp 6/18/08 2:30 PM Page i
Peru
4th Edition
by Neil Edward Schlecht
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_257104-ffirs.qxp 6/18/08 2:30 PM Page ii
About the Author
Neil Edward Schlecht first trekked to Machu Picchu in 1983 during his junior year abroad
in Quito, Ecuador, and he has continued making pilgrimages to Peru ever since. He is the
author and co-author of a dozen travel guides (including Barcelona Day by Day,Frommer’s
New York Stateand Spain For Dummies), and his articles on travel, art, wine, and tennis
have appeared in Galería Antiqvaria, The Irish Times, CNN.com, and usopen.com. After
long stints in Spain and Brazil, he currently resides in Litchfield County, CT.
Published by:
Wiley Publishing,Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright © 2008 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No
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fax [phone], or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.
Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John
Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark
of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their
respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor
mentioned in this book.
ISBN 978-0-470-25710-4
Editor: Jennifer Reilly
Production Editor: Jana M. Stefanciosa
Cartographer: Liz Puhl
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Machu Picchu: Llama overlooking ruins
Back cover photo: Cusco: Women in traditional dress
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please
contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the
U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax [phone].
Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears
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Manufactured in the United States of America
5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
List of Maps vii
What’s New in Peru 1
1 The Best of Peru 5
1 The Most Unforgettable Travel 9 The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
10 The Best Small Hotels,
2 The Most Intriguing Ruins & Inns & Lodges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Other Historical Sights . . . . . . . . . . . .8
11 The Best Local Dining
3 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
4 The Best of Natural Peru . . . . . . . . . .11 12 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . .23
5 The Best Small Towns & Villages . . . .13 13 The Best Markets & Shopping . . . . . .25
6 The Best Outdoor Experiences . . . . .14 14 The Best Reasons for
7 The Best Architecture . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Bragging Rights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
8 The Best Festivals & Celebrations . . .17 15 The Best of Peru Online . . . . . . . . . .28
2 Planning Your Trip to Peru 29
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 11 Sustainable Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 It’s Easy Being Green . . . . . . . . . . . .56
3 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 12 Packages for the Independent
Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Peru Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . .37 13 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . . .58
5 Getting There & Getting Around . . . .40 14 Staying Connected . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
Combi or Carro? Getting Around Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . . . . .62
in and out of Town . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 15 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .63
6 Money & Costs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 16 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
The Peruvian Sol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 17 Tips on Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67
7 Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 18 Recommended Books,
8 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Films & Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68
9 Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Fast Facts: Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
10 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .51
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iv CONTENTS
3 Suggested Peru Itineraries 78
1 The Best of Peru in 1 Week: 2 The Best of Peru in 2 Weeks . . . . . . .80
Cusco,Machu Picchu &
3 Ten Days with the Kids in Peru . . . . .83
the Sacred Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
4 The Active Vacation Planner 85
1 Organized Adventure Trips . . . . . . . .86 4 Tips on Health,Safety & Etiquette
2 Activities A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 in the Peruvian Wilderness . . . . . . .100
Which Jungle? Comparing 5 What to Bring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101
Piranhas and Monkeys . . . . . . . . . . .93 6 Volunteer & Study Programs . . . . . .102
3 Peru’s National Parks &
Nature Reserves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97
5 Lima 105
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106 All That Glitters Isn’t
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .109 Necessarily Gold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 Archaeological Sites in Lima . . . . .139
Fast Facts: Lima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112 6 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114 7 Outdoor Activities &
Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123
8 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141
Cevicherías . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
9 Lima After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143
5 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . . . . .131
10 Side Trips from Lima . . . . . . . . . . . .147
6 The Central Coast & Highlands 149
1 Pisco & the Reserva Nacional 3 Nasca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165
de Paracas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151 4 A Gem in the Central Highlands:
Paracas Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154 Ayacucho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173
Earthquake Aftershocks . . . . . . . . .157 Ayacucho’s Renowned Retablos . . .177
2 Ica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159
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CONTENTS v
7 Cusco 183
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184 The Magic of Inca Stones:
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187 A Walking Tour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .215
Fast Facts: Cusco . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189 Cusco’s Spectacular
Celebrations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191
6 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223
Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . . . . .198
7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224
More Hotels & Hostales
in Cusco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 8 Cusco After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 Cafe Society . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230
Cusco’s Quintas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208 9 Side Trips from Cusco . . . . . . . . . . .231
5 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . . . . .211 And Then There Were 12:
The Inca Emperors . . . . . . . . . . . . .233
Cusco’s Boleto Turístico . . . . . . . . .212
The Cusco School of Art . . . . . . . . .214
8 Machu Picchu & the Sacred Valley of the Incas 235
Getting Around the We Call It Choclo: Foods
Sacred Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236 of the Incas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262
1 Pisac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237 Bingham, the “Discoverer”
Extreme Sacred Valley: of Machu Picchu . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266
Outdoor Adventure Sports . . . . . . .240 On the Trail of “New” Inca
2 Urubamba & Environs . . . . . . . . . .243 Cities: The Discovery Continues . . .270
3 Ollantaytambo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .251 Inca Trail Regulations . . . . . . . . . . .274
Hiking Trails in the The Road Less, or More
Sacred Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256 Comfortably, Traveled: Alternatives
to the Inca Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .276
4 Machu Picchu & the Inca Trail . . . . .257
More Places to Crash in
Endangered Machu Picchu . . . . . . .259
Aguas Calientes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .282
9 Southern Peru 284
1 Puno & Lake Titicaca . . . . . . . . . . .284 The Discovery of Juanita,
Puno & Lake Titicaca Festivals . . . .289 the Ampato Maiden . . . . . . . . . . . .308
Celebration and Quiet House Tour: Arequipa’s
on Taquile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294 Colonial Mansions . . . . . . . . . . . . .311
Additional Hostales . . . . . . . . . . . .300 3 Colca Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .323
Traveling to Bolivia . . . . . . . . . . . . .303 A Typical Guided Tour of
Colca Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .328
2 Arequipa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .303
On Those Camelids . . . . . . . . . . . .329
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vi CONTENTS
10 Amazonia 334
1 The Southern Amazon Jungle . . . . .335 2 Iquitos & the Northern
Bird-Watching and Amazon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .352
Macaw Clay Licks . . . . . . . . . . . . . .348 Into the Wild: Farther Afield
The Amazon in Danger . . . . . . . . . .350 from Iquitos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .364
11 Northern Peru 371
1 Trujillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .371 4 Huaraz & the Cordillera
Moche Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .382 Blanca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .411
2 Chiclayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .388 Festival Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . . . .418
The Sicán Civilization . . . . . . . . . . .394 More Budget Accommodations . . . .420
The Ruins of Kuélap . . . . . . . . . . .397 Cordillera Huayhuash: The
New “It” Range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .431
3 Cajamarca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .398
Packin’ Up the Llama . . . . . . . . . . .432
Caxamarca: A Brief History . . . . . . .400
Cajamarca’s Colonial Mansions &
Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .403
Appendix A:Peru in Depth 434
1 A Look at the Past . . . . . . . . . . . . .435 Terrorism in Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . .442
Inca Architecture & 3 Peruvian People & Culture . . . . . . .445
Stonemasonry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .438 Coca Leaves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .446
2 Modern Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .441 4 Etiquette & Customs . . . . . . . . . . . .449
Appendix B:Useful Terms & Phrases 452
1 Basic Spanish Vocabulary . . . . . . . .452 3 Quechua & Quechua-Derived
2 Spanish Menu Glossary . . . . . . . . .456 Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .457
Index 459
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List of Maps
The Best of Peru 6 Inca Ruins near Cusco 220
The Regions in Brief 31 The Sacred Valley 237
The Best of Peru in 1 Week 79 Ollantaytambo 253
The Best of Peru in 2 Weeks 81 Machu Picchu 261
Ten Days with the Kids in Peru 84 The Inca Trail 269
Lima at a Glance 107 Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu
Pueblo) 279
Where to Stay & Dine in Lima
Centro 115 Southern Peru 285
Where to Stay & Dine in Puno 287
Miraflores 117 Lake Titicaca 291
Where to Stay & Dine in San What to See & Do in Arequipa 307
Isidro 121
Where to Stay & Dine in Arequipa 315
What to See & Do in Lima
Colca Valley & Canyon 325
Centro 133
Amazonia 335
The Central Coast 150
The Southern Amazon 337
Pisco 153
Puerto Maldonado 339
Paracas National Preserve 155
The Northern Amazon 353
Ica 161
Iquitos 355
Nasca 167
Northern Peru 373
The Nasca Lines 169
Trujillo 375
Ayacucho 175
Chiclayo 389
Where to Stay in Central Cusco 193
Cajamarca 399
Where to Stay & Dine in San Blas 199
The Cordillera Blanca 413
Where to Dine in Central Cusco 205
Huaraz 415
What to See & Do in Cusco 213
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Acknowledgments
Many thanks to Jennifer Reilly for her considerable hard work editing the last two editions of
this book.
Gracias y un abrazo to Lilian Delfín, Chalo & Leonie, Hernán Carranza, and Peter Vicich for
their hospitality in Peru.
—Neil Schlecht