Frommer's Paris

316 Pages·2003·3.539 MB·English

by  Haas Mroue

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Paris
from $90 a Day
9th Edition
by Haas Mroue
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Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Paris 1
1 The Best of Paris from $90 a Day 4
1 Frommer’s Favorite Affordable 3 Best Affordable
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Restaurant Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
2 Best Affordable Hotel Bets . . . . .6
2 Planning an Affordable Trip to Paris 12
1 The $90-a-Day Premise . . . . . . .12 Frommers.com: The Complete
2 55 Money-Saving Tips . . . . . . . .13 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .38
3 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .18 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . .40
Paris, Je T’Adore . . . . . . . . . . .19 12 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
4 Entry Requirements & Travel in the Age of
Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Bankruptcy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Getting Your Passports . . . . . . .21 Flying with Film & Video . . . . . .46
5 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Driving Times to and
from Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
What Things Cost in Paris . . . . .23
13 Packages for the Independent
6 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Paris Calendar of Events . . . . . .25
14 Escorted General-Interest
7 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
8 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . .30 15 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .50
9 Specialized Travel Resources . . .32 16 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
10 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .37 17 Recommended Books
11 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .38 & Films . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
3 Getting to Know the City of Light 54
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .67
Arrondissements in Brief . . . . . .58 Fast Facts: Paris . . . . . . . . . . . .70
4 Accommodations You Can Afford 76
1 On the Right Bank . . . . . . . . . .77 2 On the Left Bank . . . . . . . . . . .91
Living Like a Parisian . . . . . . . .82 3 Hostels & Dorms . . . . . . . . . .102
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iv CONTENTS
5 Great Deals on Dining 105
1 Eating Like a Parisian . . . . . . .106 5 On the Left Bank . . . . . . . . . .131
Cheap Streets: The Lowdown . . .108 6 The Best Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . .143
2 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . .109 7 Tea Salons (Salons de Thé) . . .148
3 The Best of the 8 Wine Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
Budget Chains . . . . . . . . . . . .111 9 Patisseries & Boulangeries . . . .152
4 On the Right Bank . . . . . . . . .112
Three-Course Meals
after Midnight . . . . . . . . . . . .117
6 Seeing the Sights 154
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . .154 7 8 & 17e Arrondissements:The
1 Attractions by Type . . . . . . . . .155 Champs-Elysées & Environs . . .192
2 The Top 10 Sights . . . . . . . . . .159 8 18e Arrondissement:
Montmartre . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197
Paris’s Top Free (or Almost)
Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160 9 16e Arrondissement:Trocadéro
& Le Seizième . . . . . . . . . . . .200
Some Louvre Tips . . . . . . . . . .167
10 12,19 & 20e Arrondissements:
Great Spots for Getting That
Eastern Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . .205
Panoramic Shot . . . . . . . . . . .169
The Canals of Paris . . . . . . . . .209
3 Ile de la Cité & Ile St-Louis . . .170
11 5 & 6e Arrondissements:
Pretty Place Dauphine . . . . . . .171
The Latin Quarter . . . . . . . . . .209
4 1er Arrondissement:The Louvre,
12 6 & 7e Arrondissements:
Tuileries & Les Halles . . . . . . .176
St-Germain-des-Prés . . . . . . . .214
Baron Haussmann: The Man
An American Bookseller
Who Transformed Paris . . . . . .181
in Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216
5 2,9 & 10e Arrondissements:
13 7e Arrondissement:The Eiffel
The Opéra,Bourse & the
Tower & Invalides . . . . . . . . . .217
Grands Boulevards . . . . . . . . .181
14 6,14 & 15e Arrondissements:
6 3,4 & 11e Arrondissements:
Montparnasse . . . . . . . . . . . .220
The Marais,Beaubourg &
15 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .221
Bastille . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184
7 Paris Strolls 224
Walking Tour 1: The Marais . . .224 Walking Tour 4:
Walking Tour 2: Montmartre . . .228 The Latin Quarter . . . . . . . . . .235
Walking Tour 3: The Literary
& ArtisticLeft Bank . . . . . . . .231
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CONTENTS v
8 Shopping 239
1 The Shopping Basics . . . . . . . .239 2 The Best Shopping from
A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240
9 Paris After Dark 251
1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . .252 A Bar Crawl in Trendy
2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .255 Ménilmontant . . . . . . . . . . . .264
3 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . .261
10 Side Trips from Paris 266
1 Versailles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266 5 Giverny—In the Footsteps
2 Fontainebleau . . . . . . . . . . . .270 of Claude Monet . . . . . . . . . .276
3 Chartres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272 6 Reims:Champagne Tasting
& Culinary Adventures . . . . . . .277
4 Disneyland Paris . . . . . . . . . . .274
Appendix A:Paris in Depth 280
1 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280 2 Parisian Art . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280
Appendix B:Glossary of Useful Terms 290
Useful French Words
& Phrases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290
Index 294
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .294 Cafe Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .305
Accommodations Index . . . . . .304 Tea Salon Index . . . . . . . . . . . .306
Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . .304 Wine Bar Index . . . . . . . . . . . .306
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List of Maps
Paris Arrondissements 60 Attractions in the 1er 177
Accommodations on the Right Bank Attractions in the 3 & 4e 185
(1–4, 8–11 & 16–18e) 78
Attractions in the 8e 193
Accommodations on the Right Bank
Attractions in the 18e 199
(8 & 16–17e) 89
Attractions in the 16e 201
Accommodations on the Left Bank
Bois de Boulogne 203
(5–7 & 13–14e) 92
Attractions in the 12 & 19–20e 207
Accommodations on the Left Bank
(7e) 101 Attractions in the 5–6e 211
Where to Dine on the Right Bank Attractions in the 7e 219
(1–4 & 9–12e) 114 Walking Tour: The Marais 225
Where to Dine on the Right Bank Walking Tour: Montmartre 229
(8 & 16–17e) 127
Walking Tour: The Literary &
Where to Dine on the Right Bank Artistic Left Bank 233
(18e) 129
Walking Tour: The Latin
Where to Dine on the Left Bank Quarter 237
(5–6 & 14e) 132
The Ile-de-France 267
Where to Dine on the Left Bank
Versailles 269
(7 & 15e) 141
Fontainebleau 271
Top Paris Attractions 156
Notre-Dame de Chartres 273
The Louvre 161
Reims 278
Notre-Dame de Paris 163
Père-Lachaise Cemetery 172
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Acknowledgments
I would like to thank Veronique Surrel for her endless insights, Brian Bost for the endless
walks, and Patricia Stott for the endless laughter—my time in Paris would not have been
the same without you.
—Haas Mroue
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An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Paris from $90 a Day, 9th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
About the Author
Haas Mrouestudied at the American University of Paris for 2 years before graduating
from UCLA Film School. He went on to receive an M.A. in creative writing from the Uni-
versity of Colorado, Boulder. His travel articles, poems, and short stories have appeared
in such publications as Travel Holiday, Interiors, The Literary Review, andEncyclopaedia
Britannica, and have been broadcast on the BBC World Service. He has co-authored
guidebooks for National Geographicand Berlitz. He’s the author of Frommer’s Memorable
Walks in Parisand is a contributor to Frommer’s Europe from $70 a Day,Frommer’s Gay &
Lesbian Europe,Frommer’s Argentina & Chile,and Frommer’s South America.When he’s not
on the road, he makes his home on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Paris
Paris For Dummies
Suzy Gershman’s Born to Shop Paris
The Unofficial Guide to Paris
Frommer’s Irreverent Guide to Paris
Frommer’s Memorable Walks in Paris
Frommer’s Portable Paris
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Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
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