Frommer's India, 4th edition (Frommer's Complete)

772 Pages·2010·11.06 MB·English

by  Pippa de Bruyn

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India
Tamil Nadu is home to nearly 33,000 temples, some with an
elephant who will bless you with a tap of its trunk. See chapter 8.
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n
Detailed maps throughout
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and other practical information
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Candid reviews of hotels and restaurants,
plus sights, shopping, and nightlife
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Itineraries, walking tours, and trip-planning ideas
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4th Edition 4th
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T1 o. cD a i0lal1 lI 1nth d(efira oi:n mte trhnea tUio.Sn.a al nadc cCeassn caoddae);: 00 (from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand); or 0011 (from Australia). Sukkur Zhob J hCelhLLueaamnhhaboo rree JammPuathHPaIRMnAkAoDCtEHSAHL CHGaIngNtokA TTTBBBSSShhhHHHhhhDDDiiimmmiiiUUUiiilllssslllpppTTToooppphhhAAAnnnuuuuuuNNNgggrrr AAASSSSSSIIItttAAAaaaMMMnnnaaagggaaarrrNNNKKKDDDAAAoooiiibbbhhhGGGrrriiiAAAuuummmTTTgggLLLiiinnnaaaAAAaaasssrrrNNNuuuhhhkkkDDDiiiaaa
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UTTARA- DDDhhhaaakkkaaaTTTRRRIIIPPPUUURRRAAA MMMIIIZZZOOORRRAAAMMM
MAlal koivnegr cInadllsia w, yitohui’nll Isnedei ail:l uminated yellow ISD/STD signs indicating a privately operated Okha Indus HARDYAelNhAi DELHI KHAND NEPAL BrahmaputraMMMaaannndddaaalllaaayyy
“International Subscriber Dialing” and “Standard Trunk Dialing” facility; these are very reasonably priced. SSuukkkkuurr New Delhi Y
Your call is monitored by a computer system, and you pay at the end of your session. Jaisalmer RBAikJaAneSrTHAN amunaBAagrreaillyPRUATDTAERSH Kathmandu GGaaSInnKggKttIooMkk
TAou smtraakliea i6n1te, rNneawti oZneaall acnaldls 6: 4D)i.a Nl e0x0t a, nddia lt htheen athreea c cooudnet rayn cdo dneu m(Ub.Se.r .o r Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Jodhpur Ajmer Jaipur KanpurBhubaLnuescwkanrow Gorakhpur
For example, if you want to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., dial 00-1-202-588-7800. Gwalior Ganges Ghaghara Patna
Kota
For directory assistance: Dial 197 for a local number within India, and dial 183 for long-distance numbers Udaipur Allahabad Benares BIHAR Ganges
within India.
JHARKHAND
KPaanndjimla Gandhinagar Ranchi WEST
GOAAhmedabad Bhopal Jabalpur BENGAL
TEMPERATURE Vadodara Kolkata
METRIC CONVERSIONS GJaUmJnAagRaArT NarmadaMInAdoDreHYA PRADESH CHHATTISGARH Jamshedpur (CHaalclduitata)
110˚ F
DISTANCE WEIGHT 19000˚˚ FF 40˚ C DDiAuMADNaSmuarant Silvassa EllorPaondAiMcjhaenArtrayHARASHTNRaAgpur Raipur OMRaIhSanSaCAdiuttBaacBBklahhsuuobbreaatnnPMheeaeorss Gauwwdtaaahinpsrrg oefs
30˚ C AND DIU DADRA AND
To convert multiply by To convert multiply by 80˚ F KERALANAGAR HAVELI
inches to centimeters..............2.54 Ounces to grams...........................28.35 Mumbai
Pune
cfmeeeenttte itmrose mttoee rftsee etrost.. ..i..n....c....h....e....s............................................ 3.. ...332908 GPKoirlauomngdrsa st moto so ktuoinl opcgeorsua..nm..d..ss................................................................. ... ..2 0 .. 342 550 6700˚˚ FF 20˚ C Thiruv(aBn(oaTrnmitvhabanapduyrru)amm) GodavariVishakhapatnam B a y
Arabian Hyderabad
yards to meters......................... . .91 1 ounce = 28 gr 1 gr = .04 ounce 50˚ F 10˚ C Sea Kakinada o f
mmeilteesr tso t ok iyloamrdest..e..r.s.....................................11..0691 1 lb = .4555 kg 1 kg = 2.2 l b 40˚ F PPaannjjiimm Krishna PARNADDHERSAH B e n g a l
k1i lmomi =e 1te.6rs k tmo miles..1.. .k..m... .=.. ...6..2.. k.6m2 LIQUID VOLUME 32˚ F 0˚ C 15˚ MarmaGGgaOOoAA Guntakal 15˚
1 ft = .30 m 1 m = 3.3 ft To convert multiply by 20˚ F
U.S. gallons to liters..........................3.8
-10˚ C
Liters to U.S. gallons..........................26 10˚ F KARNATAKA
Chennai
U.S. gallons to imperial gallons........83 0˚ F -18˚ C Mangalore (Madras)
Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons......1.20 Bangalore
Imperial gallons to liters................4.55 -10˚ F Mysore PPoonnddiicchheerrrryy
Liters to imperial gallons..................22 LAKSHADWEEP
-20˚ F -30˚ C Calicut Coimbatore Cuddalore
1 liter = .26 U.S. gallon
KKEERRAALLAA TAMIL
1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liter subTtora ccot n3v2e artn dF tmou Clt: iply Kavaratti (CKoocchhini) WPEILRDIYLAIFNREAMDaUdurai Palk SJtarfafinta INDIAN OCEAN
SANCTUARY
by 5/9 (.555) TThhiirruuvvaannaanntthhaappuurraamm
((TTrriivvaannddrruumm)) Tuticorin Trincomalee
To convert C to F:
multiply by 1.8 International Boundary Kovalam Gouflf
and add 32 State Boundary Mannar SRI
0 200 mi
32˚ F = 0˚ C National Capital LANKA
Colombo
State Capital Galle 0 200 km
India
4th Edition
by Pippa de Bruyn, Dr. Keith Bain,
David Allardice & Shonar Joshi
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Back cover photo: The Temple elephant gives a blessing at the Arunachaleswara Temple
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C O N T E N T S
LIST OF MAPS viii
1 THE BEST OF INDIA 1
1 Experiencing Spiritual India . . . . . . . .1 5 Exploring Natural India. . . . . . . . . . . .11
2 The Best Temples, Monuments & 6 The Best Eating & Drinking
Lost Cities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
3 Unique Places to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 7 The Best Ayurvedic Pampering. . . .13
4 Most Memorable Moments . . . . . . . .9 8 The Best Savvy Traveler Tips. . . . . . .15
2 INDIA IN DEPTH 17
1 India Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 4 The Religions of India . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
2 India Past to Present . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 5 Indian Cuisine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Dateline. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 6 Reading India. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
3 The Lay of the Land. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 7 Bollywood & Beyond: India
on the Big Screen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO INDIA 46
1 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Surviving Scams & Con Artists . . . . . .70
Calendar Of Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .72
2 Entry Requirements. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 8 Sustainable & Responsible
3 Getting There & Getting Around. . . .52 Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
The Romance of Rail: India’s General Resources for Green
Special Train Journeys. . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77
4 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 9 Special-Interest Trips &
Escorted Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77
What Things Cost in India . . . . . . . . . .63
10 Discovering Spiritual India. . . . . . . . .82
5 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
11 Tips on Accommodations. . . . . . . . .85
6 Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69
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4 SUGGESTED INDIA ITINERARIES 89
1 North India Highlights 3 South India: Temples & Tea,
in 16 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 Beaches & Backwaters . . . . . . . . . . . .97
2 The Golden Triangle & 4 A Leisurely Southern Sojourn. . . . 101
Rajasthan Highlights. . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
5 CITY OF DREAMERS: MUMBAI & MAHARASTHRA
SIDE TRIPS 105
1 Arrival & Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Old School Seafood Thrillers. . . . . . 145
Neighborhoods in Brief. . . . . . . . . . . 111 The Skinny on Street Food . . . . . . . . 152
Fast Facts: Mumbai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 The Thali: A Meal Unto Itself . . . . . . 159

2 Getting Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 6 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
3 What to See & Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 7 Mumbai After Dark. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
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DI Into the Belly of the Beast: Getting Gay Bombay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
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I Beneath Mumbai’s Skin . . . . . . . . . . 120 8 Pune & the Osho International
My Bombay/Mumbai . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Meditation Resort. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
4 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 9 Aurangabad & the Ellora &
TS 5 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Ajanta Caves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
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N 6 GOA: PARTY IN PARADISE 191
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1 Arrival & Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Psychedelic Journeys: What Next
Fast Facts: Goa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 for the Late, Great Goan Party? . . . 216

2 North Goa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 3 Panjim & Old Goa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
Shopping the Global Village 4 The Central Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
Markets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 5 The Far South: Goa’s Best
Villas, Goan-Style . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
7 GOD’S OWN COUNTRY: KERALA & LAKSHADWEEP 233
Ayurveda: Kerala’s Healing Balm. . . . 234 Cruising Kerala on the World’s
1 Kochi (Cochin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Smallest Luxury Liner. . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
Fast Facts: Kochi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Hiring the Best Houseboat. . . . . . . . 268

Ultimate Detox: Change Your Life & 4 Trivandrum & Varkala. . . . . . . . . . . . 277
Recharge Your Soul at Kalari Fast Facts: Trivandrum . . . . . . . . . . . 279

Kovilakom. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
5 Kovalam & Kerala’s
2 Lakshadweep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Southernmost Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . 285
3 The Backwaters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262
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India’s Ultimate Sunrise Back to Nature on the v
Gathering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Tiger Trail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
6 The Cardamom Hills & Periyar 7 Northern Kerala. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
Tiger Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295
8 TAMIL NADU: THE TEMPLE TOUR 313
1 Chennai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 The City of Dawn: Sixties Sci-Fi
Rule of the Screen Gods . . . . . . . . . . 315 in the 21st Century . . . . . . . . . . . 342
Fast Facts: Chennai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 4 Tiruchirappalli (Trichy), Thanjavur
& Chettinad Region. . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
2 Mahabalipuram
(Mamallapuram) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 5 Madurai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356
3 Puducherry (Pondicherry). . . . . . . 337 Tracking Elephants in the Forested
Ghats of Tamil Nadu. . . . . . . . . . . . . 363
9 KARNATAKA & HYDERABAD: KINGDOMS IN
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OF THE SOUTH 364 IA
1 Bengaluru (Bangalore) . . . . . . . . . . 364 Rejuvenation City: Tiptop Spas. . . . 381
Planning Your Tour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 2 Mysore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383

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Fast Facts: Bengaluru. . . . . . . . . . . . . 368 3 Exploring the Hoysala O
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Side Trip to Gokarna: Discovering Heartland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390 TE
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the Universe within at Om Beach. . . . 370 Traveling Via Mangalore. . . . . . . . . . 393 T
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4 Hampi & the Ruined City
Walk the Talk. . . . . . . . . . . . . 371
of Vijayanagar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394
Learn the “Art of Living” with
5 Side Trip to Northern
India’s Hot New Age Guru . . . . . . . . 372
Karnataka. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398
Swinging in the Hip City of
6 Hyderabad. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400
Bengaluru. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378
1 0 THE HEART OF INDIA: DELHI, THE TAJ,
UTTAR PRADESH & MADHYA PRADESH 410
1 Delhi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411 3 Varanasi (Benaras). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465
A Tale of Seven Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416 Getting the Better of Transport
Fast Facts: Delhi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421 Tricksters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468

Five-Star Culinary Flagships Up in Flames. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 469
Where You Can’t Go Wrong. . . . . . . 440 4 Khajuraho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478
2 Agra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452 5 Bandhavgarh National Park. . . . . . 489
The Life & Times of the Mughal 6 Kanha National Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . 493
Emperors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454
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vi 7 Orchha. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 495 8 Bhopal & Sanchi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500
The Gems of Gwalior. . . . . . . . . . . . . 496 9 The Fortress City of Mandu. . . . . . 503
1 1 RAJASTHAN: LAND OF PRINCES 506
1 Planning Your Trip to Rajasthan . . . 507 6 Pushkar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548
An Aravalli Ramble. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508 The Dargah Sharif & Other
Once Were Warriors: The History Ajmer Gems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 550
of the Rajput . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510 Passport to Pushkar: Saying
2 Jaipur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 513 Your Prayers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 552
Fast Facts: Jaipur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 519 7 Udaipur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555

3 The National Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534 Battling for a Glimpse of Beauty . . . 565
Free Range: The Trade in 8 Jodhpur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575
Tiger Parts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537 The Liquid Lifeline. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 582
A 4 Bundi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542 9 Jaisalmer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 583
DI 5 Shekhawati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545 A Scarce Resource. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 592
N
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1 2 GUJARAT: INDIA’S ECLECTIC WILD WEST 593
S 1 Ahmedabad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 593 2 Kutch / Kuchchh / Kachchh. . . . . 600
T
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E Veg Out for Under $1. . . . . . . . . . . . . 599 Rare Gifts North of Bhuj . . . . . . . . . . 601
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1 3 HIGHER ALTITUDES, HIGHER POWERS: AMRITSAR,
HIMACHAL PRADESH & LADAKH 603
1 Staying Active. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 604 5 Manali & the Valley
2 Amritsar & the Golden Temple. . . . 607 of the Gods. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 632
Bloody History of the Holy 6 Dharamsala & the Kangra
Temple. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 611 Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 638
Not Quite the City of the Future: Meditation in the Mountains . . . . . 644
Stopover in Chandigarh. . . . . . . . . . 612 7 Ladakh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 651
3 Shimla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 615 The Ride of your Life: Negotiating
Fast Facts: Shimla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 618 the Manali-Leh Highway . . . . . . . . . 652

4 Kinnaur, Spiti & Lahaul . . . . . . . . . . 623 Village Homestays,
Boutique-Style. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 658
A Guide to the Top Temples,
Gompas & Villages in Rafting in Ladakh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 665
Spiti & Kinnaur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 630
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vii
1 4 UTTARAKHAND: SACRED SOURCE OF THE GANGES 666
1 Garhwal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 666 Saying Goodbye to the Ganga
Trekking Through the Land at the Gateway to God. . . . . . . . . . . 675
of the Gods. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 668 2 Kumaon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 676
An Office in the Clouds . . . . . . . . 671 3 Corbett National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 684
Soul Searching: Top Ashrams . . . . . 672 The Hunter-Turned-
The Real Happy Clappies. . . . . . . 673 Conservationist. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 684
1 5 KOLKATA CALCUTTA & EAST INDIA 689
1 Kolkata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 689 2 Orissa’s Golden Temple Triangle. . . 713
Fast Facts: Kolkata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 696 3 Darjeeling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 720

The Miracle of Mother Teresa & 4 Sikkim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 726
the “Pure Hearts”. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 700
IN
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16 FAST FACTS 735 IA
1 Fast Facts: India . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 735 16 FAST FACTS
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INDEX 741 N
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General Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 741 Accommodations Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . 754 T
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L I S T O F M A P S
India . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 The Heart of India: Delhi, Uttar
North India Highlights in Pradesh & Madhya Pradesh . . . 413
16 Days. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Delhi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .414
The Golden Triangle & Rajasthan Agra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .453
Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Fatehpur Sikri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .461
South India: Temples & Tea, Varanasi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .467
Beaches & Backwaters. . . . . . . . . . 98
Khajuraho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .479
A Leisurely Southern Sojourn . . . .103
Rajasthan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .509
Greater Mumbai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
Jaipur. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .514
Colaba, Fort & Churchgate . . . . . . .113
Pushkar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .549
South Mumbai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
Udaipur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .557
Goa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193
Gujarat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .595
Kerala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237
Himachal Pradesh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .605
Kochi (Cochin), Willingdon
Kinnaur, Spiti & Lahaul . . . . . . . . . .625
Island & Ernakulam . . . . . . . . . . .238
Uttarakhand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .667
Tamil Nadu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .317
East India . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .691
Puducherry (Pondicherry) . . . . . . .339
Kolkata (Calcutta) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .692
Karnataka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .367
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