Frommer's EasyGuide to Croatia

759 Pages·2014·7.78 MB·English

by  Jane Foster

Published by
FROMMER MEDIA LLC
Copyright © 2015 by Frommer Media LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections
107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without the prior written permission of the
Publisher. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to
[email protected].
Frommer’s is a registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Frommer Media LLC is not associated
with any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 978-1-62887-116-6 (paper), 978-1-62887-117-3 (e-book) Editorial Director: Pauline Frommer
Editor: Ethan Wolff
Production Editor: Carol Pogoni Cartographer: Liz Puhl
Indexer: Maro Riofrancos For information on our other products or services, see
www.frommers.com.
Frommer Media LLC also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that
appears in print may not be available in electronic formats.
Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1

AN IMPORTANT NOTE
The world is a dynamic place. Hotels change ownership, restaurants hike their prices,
museums alter their opening hours, and busses and trains change their routings. And all of this
can occur in the several months after our authors have visited, inspected, and written about,
these hotels, restaurants, museums and transportation services. Though we have made valiant
efforts to keep all our information fresh and up-to-date, some few changes can inevitably
occur in the periods before a revised edition of this guidebook is published. So please bear
with us if a tiny number of the details in this book have changed. Please also note that we have
no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omissions, or for inconvenience, loss,
damage, or expenses suffered by anyone as a result of assertions in this guide.
C O N T E N T S

1 THE BEST OF CROATIA
2 CROATIA IN DEPTH
3 CROATIA REGIONS & SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
The Regions in Brief
4 ZAGREB
Essentials
What to See & Do
Where to Stay
Where to Dine
Zagreb After Dark
5 EXCURSIONS FROM ZAGREB
Orientation
Excursions South of Zagreb
Excursions North of Zagreb
6 OSIJEK & INLAND CROATIA
Orientation
Sisak & the Lonjsko Polje
Eastern Slavonia
Osijek
Baranja
Vukovar & Ilok
7 ISTRIA
Orientation
Pula (Pola)
Brijuni Archipelago (Brioni)
Vodnjan (Dignano)
Rovinj (Rovigno)
Pore (Parenzo)
Umag (Umago) & Savudrija (Salvore)
Inland Istria
8 RIJEKA & THE KVARNER GULF
Rijeka
The Opatija Riviera
Krk Island
Rab Island
Cres & Lošinj Islands
9 UPPER DALMATIA
Orientation
Zadar
Zadar Environs
10 LOWER DALMATIA
Orientation
Split
Salona
Trogir
Makarska Riviera
Bra
Hvar
Korula
Vis
11 DUBROVNIK
Orientation
What to See & Do
Where to Stay
Where to Dine
Bars & Nightlife
Dubrovnik Day Trips
12 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CROATIA
13 USEFUL TERMS & PHRASES
INDEX
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Jane Foster is a freelance travel writer (with a background in architecture), specializing in
Croatia and Greece. Based in Split on the Dalmatian coast, she has traveled extensively
through Croatia and neighboring countries, and has seen the region go through many
changes since 1998. She writes for various U.K. and U.S. guidebooks, websites, newspapers,
and in-flight magazines. She enjoys hiking, cycling, sailing, discovering hidden beaches,
camping, drinking red wine, and cooking and eating with the seasons. For more information,
see www.jane-foster.com.

ABOUT THE FROMMER’S TRAVEL GUIDES
For most of the past 50 years, Frommer’s has been the leading series of travel guides in
North America, accounting for as many as 24 percent of all guidebooks sold. I think I know
why.
Although we hope our books are entertaining, we nevertheless deal with travel in a serious
fashion. Our guidebooks have never looked on such journeys as a mere recreation, but as a
far more important human function, a time of learning and introspection, an essential part of
a civilized life. We stress the culture, lifestyle, history, and beliefs of the destinations we cover
and urge our readers to seek out people and new ideas as the chief rewards of travel.
We have never shied from controversy. We have, from the beginning, encouraged our
authors to be intensely judgmental, critical—both pro and con—in their comments, and
wholly independent. Our only clients are our readers, and we have triggered the ire of
countless prominent sorts, from a tourist newspaper we called “practically worthless” (it
unsuccessfully sued us) to the many rip-offs we’ve condemned.
And because we believe that travel should be available to everyone regardless of their
incomes, we have always been cost-conscious at every level of expenditure. Although we
have broadened our recommendations beyond the budget category, we insist that every
lodging we include be sensibly priced. We use every form of media to assist our readers and
are particularly proud of our feisty daily website, the award-winning Frommers.com.
I have high hopes for the future of Frommer’s. May these guidebooks, in all the years
ahead, continue to reflect the joy of travel and the freedom that travel represents. May they
always pursue a cost-conscious path, so that people of all incomes can enjoy the rewards of
travel. And may they create, for both the traveler and the persons among whom we travel, a
community of friends, where all human beings live in harmony and peace.
Arthur Frommer
1
THE BEST OF CROATIA
U
ntil recently, Croatia’s tourist season ran from July through August,
and belonged almost exclusively to Europeans, who clogged border
crossings in their annual migration to the country’s endless coastline and
clear blue sea. Finally, however, the rest of the world has discovered
Croatia’s charms: its wealth of Roman ruins, medieval hilltop castles, and
staggering cache of natural wonders. Even though the summer season
now runs longer and the crowds are larger and more diverse, it is still
possible to find a secluded pebble cove, or a family-run winery where
time seems to have stood still. Every town and village has at least one
restaurant where the locals hang out and where the slice of life you get
with your meal is the best dessert there is. When all the big modern
hotels are filled, there is always a room waiting in a private home where
the landlord welcomes you like a long-lost friend.
This chapter is a “road map,” directing you to some of my favorites. I know
you’ll add to the list when you find some of your own.
best
THE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES
ARRIVING IN VIS TOWN BY SAILBOAT
(VIS): THERE’S NO BETTER WAY TO
EXPLORE CROATIA’S MYRIAD ISLANDS
THAN BY PRIVATE BOAT. IF YOU
CHARTER A YACHT IN SPLIT, YOU CAN
ARRIVE ON THE DISTANT ISLAND OF
VIS IN APPROXIMATELY 5 HOURS
(DEPENDING ON THE WIND), PASSING
THE MORE VISITED ISLANDS OF BRA
AND HVAR ON THE WAY. VIS TOWN
SITS IN A SHELTERED BAY, WHERE YOU
CAN MOOR UP ON THE SEAFRONT
AND STEP ASHORE FOR A DINNER OF
FRESH FISH AND LOCALLY PRODUCED
ORGANIC WINE. SEE P. 176.
Exploring Brijuni National Park (Istria): Rising from the turquoise-blue
Adriatic, the meticulously kept islet of Veli Brijuni boasts lawns, parkland,
pinewoods, Roman ruins, exotic animals, and a small museum to the former
president of Yugoslavia, Tito, who entertained glamorous friends like Liz
Taylor and Richard Burton here each summer. See p. 80.
Listening to the Sea Organ (Zadar): Waves create music as they move
water through this organ’s undersea pipes. Add a set of white stone steps
leading into the crystal water above, and beams of light shooting from sister
installation Greeting to the Sun on Zadar’s Riva, and the result is a matchless
venue for enjoying a multimedia symphony courtesy of the sea and sky. See
p. 130.
Reaching the Top of Mount Biokovo (Makarska): Rising behind the
seaside town of Makarska, rocky Biokovo is Croatia’s second highest
mountain. From Sveti Jure, at the top (1,762m/5,780 ft.), you get stunning
views down onto the deep blue Adriatic and the Dalmatian islands of Bra,
Hvar, and Korula. Looking inland, to the east, you can see the rugged
mountains of Bosnia/Herzegovina, which often remain snow-covered into
April. See p. 159.
Sea-Kayaking Round the Elafiti Islets (Dubrovnik): One of Croatia’s top
draws is its varied choice of adventure sports activities. Near Dubrovnik, the
tiny car-free Elafiti Islets are ideal for exploring by sea kayak, as they lie close
together. While you’re at it, kayaking does wonders for your torso. See p. 195.
Visiting the Museum of Broken Relationships (Zagreb): Love and
separation are universal themes. Croatia knows plenty about them, having
once been a member of Yugoslavia before fighting a bitter war for
independence. This internationally acclaimed museum has found a fitting
home in Zagreb, with each exhibit connected to a love story that went wrong,