Frommer's® Argentina & Chile

514 Pages·2005·7.1 MB·English

by  Haas Mroue

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Argentina & Chile
3rd Edition
by Haas Mroue, Kristina Schreck
& Michael Luongo
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_584391 ffirs.qxd 5/17/05 6:27 PM Page i
01_584391 ffirs.qxd 5/17/05 6:27 PM Page i
Argentina & Chile
3rd Edition
by Haas Mroue, Kristina Schreck
& Michael Luongo
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_584391 ffirs.qxd 5/17/05 6:27 PM Page ii
Published by:
Wiley Publishing,Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright © 2005 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys-
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Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of
John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered
trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the
property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with
any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN-13: 978-0-7645-8439-8
ISBN-10: 0-7645-8439-1
Editor: Kendra L. Falkenstein
special thanks to Marc Nadeau and Stephen Bassman
Production Editor: Bethany André
Cartographer: Liz Puhl
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Patagonia, Chile: Torres del Paine National Park
Back cover photo: A tango demonstration in the San Telmo district of Buenos Aires
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support,
please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974,
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Manufactured in the United States of America
5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
List of Maps vii
What’s New in Argentina & Chile 1
1 The Best of Argentina & Chile 7
1 The Most Unforgettable Travel 3 The Best Outdoor
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Adventures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
2 The Best Charming Small 4 The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Towns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
5 The Best Dining Experiences . . .15
2 Planning Your Trip to Argentina 18
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .18 6 Health & Insurance . . . . . . . . . .24
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .21 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . .25
3 Entry Requirements 8 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
& Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 9 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .29
4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 10 The Active Vacation Planner . . .31
5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Fast Facts: Argentina . . . . . . . .32
3 Buenos Aires 35
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 4 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . .62
Fast Facts: Buenos Aires . . . . . .41 5 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 6 Buenos Aires After Dark . . . . . .75
3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Tango: Lessons in the Dance
of Seduction & Despair . . . . . . .76
4 Side Trips from Buenos Aires 80
1 Mar del Plata,Argentina . . . . . .80 Fast Facts: Montevideo . . . . . . .86
2 An Introduction to Uruguay . . . .82 4 Punta del Este . . . . . . . . . . . . .91
3 Montevideo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 5 Colonia del Sacramento . . . . . .95
5 Iguazú Falls 97
1 Puerto Iguazú . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 2 The Brazilian Side:Foz do
Behind the Falls and into Iguaçu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104
theIguazúJungle . . . . . . . . . .101
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iv CONTENTS
6 The Northwest 107
1 Salta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 3 San Salvador de Jujuy . . . . . . .120
Riding the Train to 4 Driving the Quebrada de
the Clouds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 Humahuaca (Humahuaca
2 A Driving Tour of the Gorge) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123
Calchaquíes Valley via Cachi
&Cafayate . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115
7 Córdoba 124
1 Córdoba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 2 Villa Carlos Paz . . . . . . . . . . .131
Fast Facts: Córdoba . . . . . . . .126 3 La Falda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133
8 Mendoza 135
1 Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135 3 The Alta Montaña Driving
Fast Facts: Mendoza . . . . . . . .138 Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148
2 Touring the Wineries . . . . . . . .145 Hitting the Slopes in
Las Leñas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
The Story of Mendoza’s
Wine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147
9 The Argentine Lake District 153
1 San Carlos de Bariloche . . . . .154 Fast Facts:San Martín
Fast Facts:Bariloche . . . . . . . .158 de los Andes . . . . . . . . . . . . .176
2 Villa La Angostura . . . . . . . . .171 4 Junín de los Andes . . . . . . . . .185
3 San Martín de los Andes . . . . .175
10 Peninsula Valdes 187
1 Puerto Madryn . . . . . . . . . . . .188 3 Trelew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197
Fast Facts:Puerto Madryn . . . .190 High Tea in Gaiman . . . . . . . .199
2 Puerto Piramides . . . . . . . . . .195
11 Planning Your Trip to Chile 200
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . .200 6 Health & Insurance . . . . . . . . .207
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . .202 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . .207
Recommended Websites 8 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . .208
for Chile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203
9 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .209
3 Entry Requirements
10 Tips on Accommodations . . . .212
& Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203
11 The Active Vacation Planner . . .213
4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204
Fast Facts:Chile . . . . . . . . . . .216
5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205
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CONTENTS v
12 Santiago 218
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .233
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .221 5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .242
Fast Facts:Santiago . . . . . . . .223 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252
3 Where To Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .224 7 Santiago After Dark . . . . . . . .254
13 Around Santiago & the Central Valley 258
1 Viña del Mar . . . . . . . . . . . . .260 The “Wild West” of
Fast Facts: Viña del Mar . . . . .261 South America . . . . . . . . . . . .284
2 Valparaíso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .267 Pomaire Pottery . . . . . . . . . . .285
Walking Tour: From the Port A Select Tour of Chile’s
totheHeights of Valparaiso . . .274 Vineyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286
3 Excursions Outside Valparaíso 6 The Wineries of the Central
& Viña del Mar . . . . . . . . . . . .278 Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288
4 Cajón de Maipo . . . . . . . . . . .279 7 The Nearby Ski Resorts . . . . . .293
5 The Central Valley . . . . . . . . . .283 8 Chillán & Termas de
Chillán Resort . . . . . . . . . . . .296
14 The Desert North & San Pedro de Atacama 300
1 Calama & the Chuquicamata 2 San Pedro de Atacama . . . . . .305
Copper Mine . . . . . . . . . . . . .302
15 The Chilean Lake District 315
1 Temuco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .315 6 Frutillar,Puerto Octay,Puerto
The Alerce & the Araucaria: Varas,Lago Llanquihue,
Living National Monuments . . .320 Ensenada, ParqueNacional
VicentePérez Rosales & the
2 Villarrica & Pucón . . . . . . . . . .322
Lake Crossing to Argentina . . .353
3 Siete Lagos:Panguipulli
7 Puerto Montt . . . . . . . . . . . . .369
& Lican Ray . . . . . . . . . . . . . .338
8 Ferry Crossings to the Carretera
4 Valdivia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .342
Austral & Sailing to Patagonia
5 Puyehue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350 Through the Fjords . . . . . . . . .375
16 Chiloé 377
Driving to & Around Chiloé . . .378 “See Food” Everywhere:
Chiloé’s World Heritage What to Eat on Chiloé . . . . . .383
Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380 2 Castro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .385
1 Ancud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380 3 Excursions Outside Castro . . . .389
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vi CONTENTS
17 The Carretera Austral 393
1 Driving the Carretera Rafting on the Rio
Austral . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .393 Futaleufú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .405
2 Parque Nacional Alerce 6 Puyuhuapi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .408
Andino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .396 7 Coyhaique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .411
3 Pumalín Park . . . . . . . . . . . . .397 Fast Facts:Coyhaique . . . . . . .414
4 Chaitén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .399 8 Puerto Aysén,Puerto
5 South from Chaitén: Chacabuco & Laguna
Futaleufú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .402 SanRafaelNational Park . . . .421
18 Patagonia,Tierra del Fuego & Antarctica 425
1 Punta Arenas,Chile . . . . . . . .426 4 El Calafate,Argentina . . . . . . .457
Cruising from Punta Arenas 5 El Chaltén & the Fitz Roy Area,
toUshuaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .428 Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .466
Fast Facts:Punta Arenas . . . . .430 6 The Far South:Puerto Williams,
2 Puerto Natales,Chile . . . . . . .439 Chile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .469
Fast Facts:Puerto Natales . . . .440 7 Tierra del Fuego:Ushuaia,
Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .471
3 Parque Nacional Torres
del Paine,Chile . . . . . . . . . . .447 8 Antarctica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .480
Index 487
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List of Maps
Argentina 19 Around Santiago & the Central
Buenos Aires 36 Valley 259
Uruguay 83 Valparaíso 269
Montevideo 85 Walking Tour: From the Port to the
Heights of Valparaíso 275
The Iguazú Falls Region 99
The Desert North 301
Northwestern Argentina 109
Chile’s Lake District 317
Córdoba 125
Valdivia 343
Mendoza 137
Puerto Montt 371
Argentina’s Lake District 155
Chiloé 379
San Carlos de Bariloche 157
The Carretera Austral 395
Peninsula Valdes 189
Coyhaique 413
Chile 201
Patagonia 427
Santiago at a Glance 219
Punta Arenas 429
Downtown Santiago
Accommodations, Dining Ushuaia 473
&Attractions 226 Antarctica 481
Accommodations, Dining
& Attractions in Providencia
&Las Condes 229
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About the Authors
Haas Mroue(chapters 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 18) is a freelance travel writer based
in the United States. His short stories, poems, and travel pieces have appeared in a vari-
ety of publications—including the Michigan Quarterly Review,the Literary Review, Berlitz
and National Geographic guides, among many others—and his work has been broadcast
on the BBC World Service and Starz! cable channel. He is the author of Frommer’s Mem-
orable Walks In Paris, Frommer’s Paris from $95 a Day,Frommer’sAmsterdam Day by Day,
and is a contributor to Frommer’s South America, Frommer’s Gay & Lesbian Europe, and
Frommer’s Europe from $85 a Day.
Kristina Schreck (chapters 1, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18) spends an endless
amount of time on the road, but is happiest when back in Santiago, Chile, where she lives.
She has traveled widely around the globe, and has lived in Argentina and Chile for nearly
a decade, working as a freelance writer, an outdoor guide, and the marketing manager of
Portillo ski resort. Currently, she is a public relations consultant for a variety of tourism-
related entities. She is the former managing editor of Adventure Journal magazine, and is
co-author of the first edition of Frommer’s Argentina & Chile.
Michael Luongo(chapters 1, 3, and 4) has written on Argentina for theNew York Times,
the Chicago Tribune, Frommer´s Budget Travel, National Geographic Traveler, Town &
Country Traveler,the Advocate, Out Traveler, and numerous other publications. Having
been to more than 75 countries and all 7 continents, Luongo considers Argentina to be
one of his all-time favorites, and the first time he was in Buenos Aires, he cried when he
had to leave. Living in Buenos Aires like a “real native” in order to write for Frommer´s
was like living a dream. His only regret is being a bad tangoer—even though he loves
watching other people do the dance.
Acknowledgments
Haas Mroue would like to thank Ines Segarra at the Argentina Government Tourist
Office in New York. He’d also like to thank Charlie O’Malley, Kelly Thornhill, and Kai
Renk in Mendoza; and Mario in Patagonia for his exceptional driving skills on the end-
less miles of gravel roads. He’d like to extend special thanks to the team at the Secretaria
de Turismo in Salta for their invaluable assistance.
Kristina Schreck would like to thank Mark Rawsthorne, Felipe Pumarino, and Amy
Wilson for their help in updating this guide.
Michael Luongo: I want to give a big thanks to my editor Kendra for having the patience
to work with me. Thanks to Ines and Deborah and Ricardo in New York, and to Luis,
Lawrence, and Marcos in Buenos Aires for all of your help. I am sure I am missing many
people, but please know you’re loved and appreciated!