Frommer's Alaska 2005. Frommer's Complete Series, Book 68

482 Pages·2004·7.09 MB·English

by  Charles P. Wohlforth

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Alaska
2005
by Charles Wohlforth
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
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01_57146X ffirs.qxd 10/22/04 9:30 AM Page i
Alaska
2005
by Charles Wohlforth
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
01_57146X ffirs.qxd 10/22/04 9:30 AM Page ii
About the Author
Charles Wohlforthis a lifelong Alaskan who has been a writer and journalist since
1986. His Frommer’s Family Vacations in the National Parks covers parks all over the
United States based on insights from the Wohlforth family’s own camping experi-
ences. Wohlforth lives in Anchorage with his wife, Barbara, sons Robin and Joseph,
and daughters Julia and Rebecca. Last year, Farrar, Straus and Giroux published his
new book about Eskimos experiencing warming in the Arctic, titled The Whale and
the Supercomputer: On the Northern Front of Climate Change. Wohlforth welcomes
reader questions and comments through his website, www.wohlforth.net.
Published by:
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any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 0-7645-7146-X
Editor: William C. Fox
Production Editor: Blair J. Pottenger
Cartographer: Tim Lohnes
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Matanuska Glacier, SC: Woman in raft in glacial pool
Back cover photo: Denali National Park: Wonder Lake, moose pair kiss in greeting
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5 4 3 2 1
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Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Alaska 1
1 The Best of Alaska 4
1 The Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 9 The Best Encounters
2 The Best Alaska Cruises . . . . . . .5 with Native Culture . . . . . . . . .11
3 The Best Glaciers . . . . . . . . . . . .8 10 The Best Museums &
Historic Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
4 The Most Beautiful Drives
& Train Rides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 11 The Best Winter
Destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
5 The Best Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
12 The Strangest Community
6 The Best Tips for Cooking
Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
13 The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . .13
7 The Best Bear Viewing . . . . . . .10
14 The Best Websites . . . . . . . . . .14
8 The Best Marine Mammal
Viewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
2 Planning Your Trip to Alaska 16
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .16 6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Alaska by the Numbers . . . . . . .17 7 Escorted Tour or
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .18 Do-It-Yourself? . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 8 Planning an Outdoor
Vacation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Native Art: Finding
the Real Thing . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 A Salmon Primer . . . . . . . . . . .40
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 9 Specialized Travel Resources . . .44
Only-in-Alaska Events . . . . . . . .25 10 Getting There & Getting
Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Alaska Calendar of Events . . . .25
11 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .49
5 Travel & Rental
Fast Facts:Alaska . . . . . . . . . .51
Car Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Using the Internet
on the Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
3 For International Visitors 54
1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . .54 Fast Facts:For the International
Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
2 Getting to the United States . . .58
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iv CONTENTS
4 Cruising Alaska’s Coast 62
1 Weighing Your Cruise 3 Booking Your Cruise . . . . . . . . .67
Options . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 Shopping for Shore Tours . . . . .68
2 The Best Cruise Experiences 4 The Small-Ship Cruise Lines . . . .71
in Alaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65
5 The Big-Ship Cruise Lines . . . . .76
5 Southeast Alaska 83
1 Exploring Southeast Alaska . . . .84 Fast Facts:Juneau . . . . . . . . .142
2 Ketchikan:On the Waterfront . . .91 A Juneau Walking Tour . . . . . .145
Fast Facts:Ketchikan . . . . . . . .95 Remote Cabins on Foot . . . . .157
Majestic Misty Fjords . . . . . . .104 A Day Trip to Tracy Arm . . . . .161
3 Wrangell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106 7 Glacier Bay National Park . . . .165
Fast Facts:Wrangell . . . . . . . .108 8 Gustavus:Country
4 Petersburg:Unvarnished Inns & Quiet . . . . . . . . . . . . .170
Threshold to the Outdoors . . .115 9 Haines:Eagles &
Fast Facts:Petersburg . . . . . . .117 the Unexpected . . . . . . . . . . .174
5 Sitka:Rich Prize of Russian Fast Facts:Haines . . . . . . . . .176
Conquest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 10 Skagway:After the
Fast Facts:Sitka . . . . . . . . . . .128 Gold Rush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182
Rent a Floathouse . . . . . . . . .137 Fast Facts:Skagway . . . . . . . .185
6 Juneau:Forest Capital . . . . . . .139
6 Anchorage & Environs 192
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227
Fast Facts:Anchorage . . . . . . .200 7 Anchorage Nightlife . . . . . . . .229
2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .200 8 Out from Anchorage:Turnagain
3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .207 Arm & Portage Glacier . . . . . .230
4 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . .212 Tidal Wave . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232
Walking Tour: Downtown 9 Out from Anchorage:Girdwood
Anchorage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213 & Mount Alyeska . . . . . . . . . . .234
5 Getting Outside . . . . . . . . . . .221 10 Out from Anchorage:The
Matanuska & Susitna Valleys . . .238
7 The Kenai Peninsula & Prince William Sound 241
1 Exploring the Kenai Peninsula 3 Chugach National Forest:
& Prince William Sound . . . . . .242 Do-It-Yourself Wilderness . . . .247
2 The Seward Highway: 4 Whittier:Dock on the Sound . . .252
A Road Guide . . . . . . . . . . . .245
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CONTENTS v
5 Seward:Gateway to Resurrection 10 Homer & Kachemak Bay:Cosmic
Bay & Kenai Fjords . . . . . . . . .256 Hamlet by the Sea . . . . . . . . . .282
Fast Facts:Seward . . . . . . . . .259 Fast Facts:Homer . . . . . . . . . .286
6 Kenai Fjords National Park . . .265 Getting Your Fish Home . . . . .292
7 Cooper Landing:Road Hermits on the Homestead . . .300
Meets River . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271 11 Valdez . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .302
8 Kenai/Soldotna & Sterling: Fast Facts:Valdez . . . . . . . . . .304
Giant Salmon . . . . . . . . . . . . .273
12 Cordova:Hidden Treasure . . . .309
Fast Facts:Kenai
Fast Facts:Cordova . . . . . . . .311
& Soldotna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .275
9 Kenai National Wildlife
Refuge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280
8 The Denali National Park Region 317
1 Planning a Visit to the Park . . .319 First to the Top . . . . . . . . . . .338
The Denali Highway: 6 Attractions & Activities
The Drivable Denali . . . . . . . .322 Outside the Park . . . . . . . . . .339
2 Park Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . .324 7 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .340
Train Choices . . . . . . . . . . . . .326 8 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .346
Fast Facts:Denali 9 Denali Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . .348
National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . .328 10 Talkeetna:Back Door
3 Denali by Shuttle Bus . . . . . . .329 to Denali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .348
4 Denali on Foot:Day Hiking Fast Facts:Talkeetna . . . . . . .349
& Backpacking . . . . . . . . . . . .334 11 Denali Wilderness Lodges . . . .352
5 Activities Within the Park . . . .337
9 The Alaskan Interior 355
1 Exploring the Interior . . . . . . .356 5 The Alaska Highway . . . . . . . .389
2 Fairbanks:Alaska Dawson City & Eagle:
Heartland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .357 Detour into History . . . . . . . . .391
Alaska’s Highways Fast Facts:Tok . . . . . . . . . . . .392
a la Carte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .358 Fast Facts:Delta Junction . . . .393
Fast Facts:Fairbanks . . . . . . .362 6 The Glenn Highway . . . . . . . .395
Seeing the Aurora Borealis . . .364 7 The Richardson Highway
3 Chena Hot Springs Road . . . . .380 & Copper Center . . . . . . . . . .397
The Steese Highway: Drive 8 Wrangell–St.Elias National
into the Wild . . . . . . . . . . . . .383 Park & Kennecott . . . . . . . . . .398
4 The Dalton Highway . . . . . . . .385
10 The Bush 406
1 Exploring the Bush . . . . . . . . .407 Fast Facts:Kodiak . . . . . . . . .410
2 Kodiak:Wild Island . . . . . . . . .409 3 Katmai National Park . . . . . . .415
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Fast Facts:Katmai . . . . . . . . .417 6 Nome:Arctic Frontier Town . . .425
4 Unalaska/Dutch Harbor: Fast Facts:Nome . . . . . . . . . .427
Aleutian Boomtown . . . . . . . .418 7 Kotzebue:Big Village . . . . . . .431
Fast Facts:Unalaska/ Fast Facts:Kotzebue . . . . . . . .432
Dutch Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . .420
8 Barrow:Way North . . . . . . . . .434
The Aleutians: The Quiet
Fast Facts:Barrow . . . . . . . . .436
After War . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .422
9 Prudhoe Bay:Arctic Industry . . .438
5 The Pribilof Islands:
Birder’s Paradise . . . . . . . . . . .424
Appendix:Alaska in Depth 440
1 Natural History:Rough Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .445
Drafts & Erasures . . . . . . . . . .441
3 The People:Three Ways to Win
2 Politics & History:Living an Argument in Alaska . . . . . .451
a Frontier Myth . . . . . . . . . . .445 The Iditarod . . . . . . . . . . . . . .452
List of Maps
Alaska 6 Anchorage 194
Southeast Alaska 85 Downtown Anchorage 201
Ketchikan 93 Downtown Anchorage Walking
Wrangell 107 Tour 215
Petersburg 117 The Kenai Peninsula & Prince
William Sound 243
Sitka 125
Seward 257
Downtown Juneau Walking
Tour 147 Homer 283
Juneau Beyond Downtown 151 Valdez 303
Downtown Juneau 159 Cordova 311
Glacier Bay National Park 167 Denali National Park 321
Haines 175 Greater Fairbanks 361
Skagway 183 Downtown Fairbanks 373
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Acknowledgments
I couldn’t put together a book such as this without a lot of help in covering Alaska’s great
distances and tracking its fast-changing visitor businesses. This is my eighth edition, and
over the years so many friends have contributed their knowledge and support that the
book seems to belong to a great community. A few had a special part this year, the reli-
able core team of researchers whom I would trust with any assignment: Karen Datko (the
real reason the book got finished), Kris Capps (a wolf can’t stretch at Denali without her
knowing it), and Kathleen Tessaro (always cheerful, accurate, and on time). Many other
friends and family members helped with this and previous editions, and I’m grateful to
all of them.
—Charles Wohlforth
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Alaska 2005
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Alaska Cruises & Ports of Call
Alaska For Dummies
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Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions