Financial Times How to Spend It - June 11, 2022

61 Pages·2022·29 MB·English

11JUNE
2022
THE AGE OF INNOCENCE
INSIDE THE MANSIONS OF NEWPORT
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1932 COLLECTION
THE STARS ALIGNED
In 1932, Gabrielle Chanel created Bijoux de Diamants, the first High Jewellery collection in history.
Inspiredbytheallureofthestars,itwasdesignedtobewornfreelyinabrand-newway.Mademoiselle
then turned her concept of jewellery in motion – part of her vision for women – into a manifesto.
In 2022, CHANEL High Jewellery celebrates this celestial revolution with the launch of the 1932
Collection, based on the perpetual motion of the stars and tailored to the natural movements of
the body. In the same spirit, CHANEL asked an author known for his reflections on movement
to write a manifesto for the new collection.
After winding around from the nape of the neck, the string of diamonds suddenly bursts
into a shooting star, trailed by a cascade of sparks leading to a sapphire that fits perfectly into
the negative space of a crescent moon of diamonds. A fragmented nimbus then explodes
around a profusion of carats pulsating at the neckline. A line of precious stones rises and falls
with the rhythm of the breath, trapping the gaze in their bewitching depths. Beneath this
blue eclipse, a string of crystals leads the eye toward the heart, where a diamond sun blazes,
itsearly-morningraysoscillatingandsparklingwiththewearer’smovements.Inthistheatreof
preciousstones,celestialbodiesundulateontheskin’s“MilkyWay,”sketchingnewlandscapes
eachtimetheheadmovesortilts.Likethenecklace,thecollectionisaseriesofcelestialbodies
journeying across the skin and enhancing each movement of the body as the planets travel
past twinkling stars. The beauty of the world lies in this radiance. The glow of the stones
is tangible, sculpted into the diamond, itself becoming a jewel, liberated, as if the aura could
beremovedandwornasabrooch.Whatwasaparurehasbecomeajewel,astonecutinstone,
made even more precious by what has been removed from it. From the depths of the Earth
to the Cosmos, there is little light, but it sometimes burns beneath the eyelids in insistent
lines.Thegemsbegintodancewithinus:diamonds,bluediamonds,rubies,yellowdiamonds,
sapphiresandringsrunningalongthefingers,orbiting,spillingtheirbrillianceoverthehand.
Bracelets and diamonds give way to a streaking comet on the skin, a virtuoso play of light
and the ever-changing gestures of a woman who is suddenly the centre of the universe.
Hugo Lindenberg
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THE NEW 1932 COLLECTION CELEBRATES THE 90TH ANNIVERSARY
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OF THE BIJOUX DE DIAMANTS COLLECTION, CREATED IN 1932 BY GABRIELLE CHANEL. l.
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TRANSFORMABLE ALLURE CÉLESTE NECKLACE IN WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS, WITH A 55.55-CARAT OVAL-CUT SAPPHIRE. h
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JEWELSTHATTELLTIME
HARRYWINSTON.COM
Am I ready
for a constantly
changing world?
Does my strategy embrace it?
And my portfolio reflect it?
For some of life’s questions, you’re not alone.
Together we can find an answer.
Thevalueofinvestmentsmayfallaswellasriseandyoumaynotgetbacktheamountoriginallyinvested.©UBS2022.Allrightsreserved.
CASALOEWELondon
41–42NewBondstreet
AnthonyHopkinsbyJuergenTeller loewe.com
CONTENTS
23
11JUNE
2022
REGULARS THEFIX
13 23
OPENINGSHOT BELLEWEATHER
JosephineBakercontinues Thepowerdressis
toentertain perfectfortheheat,
saysRosannaDodds
17
EDITOR’SLETTER
29
Howtosummerit. STORMCORE
ByJoEllison Areyoureadyfor
stormcorejewellery?
19
THEAESTHETE ByMariaFitzpatrick
BritishceramicistMartha
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Freudtalkstaste FORCEOFNATURE
Botany’slongloveaffair
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THEFIND withart.ByMarcJeanson
Callthetunewitha
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OPERATORS
46
DOUBLEACT 15buyswiththevelvet
Theactiviststaking touch.ByAylinBayhan
onwaterpollutionand
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thefashionindustry. DOORDYE
ByYasminJones-Henry Theshiboricrewleading
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33
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ByMariaFitzpatrick Brushuponyoureco-
paints.ByClaraBaldock
67
TECHNOPOLIS
39
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ByJamieWaters GraceCookchartsthe
riseofchefchic
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FOOD
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OPENING SHOT
SONGAND
DANCE
JosephineBakerinspiresa
stunningretrospectivenear
heradoptedhometowninthe
southofFrance
WhenMissouri-bornshowgirl
JosephineBakershimmiedonstage
attheFoliesBergèreinParisin1926,
wearinglittlemorethanherjewellery
andabeltfashionedfrom16rubber
bananas,shecaptivatedaudiences
withherdansesauvage,becoming
aninstantmusic-hallstar.Dressed
inBalmainandDior,shewentonto
performunderthebrightlightsof
thegreatestvenues,andbecame
aniconoftheJazzAge.
Nearly50yearsafterherdeath
in1975,JosephineBaker:UnDestin
Extraordinairehasopenedatthe
SalleSaint-MartininSouillac,
Dordogne,closetowhereBaker
andherhusbandlivedwiththeir12
adoptedchildrenandpetcheetah.
TheexhibitionhonoursBaker’s
influenceasaperformerandcivil
rightsactivist,aswellasherrecent
entryintotheFrenchPanthéon–
thefirstblackwomantoreceivethe
honour.ItalsotracesBaker’simpact
onart,dance,music,filmandfashion
fromthe1920stothepresent,viaa
mixofcostumes,showpostersand
fashionphotography–including
PeterLindbergh’s1988photograph
ofNaomiCampbell,whichpays
tributetoBaker’sfreneticrhythm,
slickcroppedhaircutandpeerless
class.AUGUSTINEHAMMOND
JosephineBaker:UnDestin
NaomiCampbellshot
Extraordinaireisonuntil10September
byPeterLindbergh
atSalleSaint-Martin,Souillac forVogueItalia,1988
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