Table Of ContentN F A
A C
O SO
e H
d I M
a H I
a j OP
a r S NL
l A H Y PET
F P HE
A O
C
R T
G OO
O U
G
T R
O R
S
H AE
P P
F
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I L E X
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contents
6 Introduction the workIng PhotograPher
98 Working with Clients
equIPMent
100 Working from a Brief
10 Cameras 102 How a Production Shoot Works
14 Choosing your DSLR 104 Pricing
16 Lenses 106 Image Licensing & Guides
First published in the UK in 2012 by 20 Software 108 Copyright
ILEX
210 High Street 22 Hardware 110 Model Releases
Lewes
East Sussex BN7 2NS PreParatIon
organIzatIon
www.ilex-press.com
28 Camera Basics 114 Organizing Files
CAlol priygrhigtsh tr e©s e20rv1e2d The Ilex Press Ltd. 32 Preparing Your Shoot 115 Adding Keywords
34 Finding Inspiration 116 Backing Up
PAussbolicsihaeter: P Aulbalsitsahier rC: aAmdpambe Jlluniper 36 Sketching 117 Adobe Lightroom
Creative Director: James Hollywell 38 Getting into Fashion Photography 118 Adjustments in Lightroom
Managing Editor: Natalia Price-Cabrera
Editor: Tara Gallagher 120 Batch Editing
the creatIve teaM
Specialist Editor: Frank Gallaugher 122 Catalogs & Filters
Senior Designer: Kate Haynes 42 Overview
Design: JC Lanaway 124 Choosing the “Right” Shot
44 Casting Your Model
Illustrator: John Woodcock
126 Making a Contact Sheet
Colour Origination: Ivy Press Reprographics 48 Model Direction
Any copy of this book issued by the publisher is sold subject to 50 Styling retouchIng
trheeso cldon, hdiirteiodn o tuhta ot rit o sthhaelrl wnoiste b cyi rwcuayla otef dtr waditeh oour to tthhee rpwuibselis bhee rle’sn t, 52 Makeup & Hair 130 Retouching
prior consent in any form of binding or cover other than that in 132 Layers
which it is published and without a similar condition including these shootIng
words being imposed on a subsequent purchaser. 56 Natural Versus Studio Lighting 133 Curves & Color Adjustments
136 Fixing Spots & Blemishes
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data 58 High-key & Low-key Lighting
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library 60 On Location 138 Retouching Sample
140 Textures & Blending Modes
ISBN: 978-1-908150-45-5 62 Working with Natural Light
142 Black & White
66 Working with Artificial Light
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced 144 Cross Process
or used in any form, or by any means – graphic, electronic or 68 In the Studio
mechanical, including photocopying, recording or information
storage-and-retrieval systems – without the prior permission of the 70 Finding the Right Studio MarketIng
publisher. 72 Setting up a Home Studio 148 Marketing Strategies
Printed and bound in China 74 Lighting Setups 150 Branding
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 scenarIos 152 The Importance of Social Media
154 Preparing Your Portfolio
Photography credit: 84 Editorial
155 Your Website Portfolio
Page 2: 86 Beauty
A(wnwnwa .amnadt eGreiaolgrgiriel- mfoarg M.coamte)r.ial Girl magazine 88 Fashion Portraiture aPPendIces
Models: Anna and Georgie @ Profile Models London 90 Group Shots 156 Picture Credits
Makeup: Leah Mabe
Hair: Craig Marsden @ Carol Hayes Management 92 Assignment 158 Index
Styling: Claudia Behnke
160 Acknowledgments
Photography Assistance: Oscar May
160 I nformation on Fashion
Page 4: Photography Workshops
Advertising Image for Tallulah Love Lingerie
(www.tallulahlove.com).
Model: Jade Mcsorely @ Models 1
Makeup: Megumi Matsuno
Ilex Instant Ilex Instant
Introduction THE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER
Fashion photography is one of the most sought after areas of work among
upcoming photographers, and who could blame them? Along with the glamorous
lifestyle and huge potential audience for your work, fashion—much like art—is
constantly evolving. From the Hollywood glamour girls of the ’30s and ’50s, to the
disco fever of the 1970s and the grunge of the 1990s, fashion photographers have
been at the forefront of every movement, capturing the iconic moments of each.
Some of the photographers have been even more celebrated than the stars they
were shooting.
Breaking into the fashion photography industry may seem like an impossible
dream, but with time, investment, passion, determination, and skill, achieving
that goal is not as impossible as you might think. I created this book to give new
photographers an insight into the fashion photography industry as I know it. This
book is not just a photography handbook; it also aims to help you produce your
own dynamic images with set assignments, hints, and tips to find your own style
as a photographer—one of the most important aspects of launching your fashion
photography career.
This guide gives you essential instruction on everything there is to know about
fashion photography—covering shooting on-location and in studio environments,
lighting diagrams and technical information, working with your model and
creative team, and tips on model guidance. As digital imagery plays a large part in
today’s industry, I have covered some aspects of post-production that are vital for
fashion photographers of any skill level. However, covering everything post-
production can offer is outside the scope of this book, and those wanting to fully
master the digital darkroom would benefit from a dedicated guide. That said, you
will learn how to optimize your workflow, perfect your imagery, and also learn
about one of the most important parts of the industry—the business side of
photography; covering things such as marketing your work, catering to a specific
OPPOSITE audience, how to effectively organize your portfolio, and how to use social media
Me on the set of one
to reach a wider audience. I hope this book will give you the confidence and
of my workshops.
inspiration you need to launch your career and get yourself noticed within the
Photo: Corina
Van Sluytman fashion photography industry.
6 INTRODUCTION
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Attendees at one of my
London workshops, 2010.
Photo: Oscar May
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Equipment CAMERAS
the First step you must take on your to become as an artist, and if you’re anything
journey is finding the right camera. So like me, your initial experience will probably
what camera should you buy? The answer shape you as well.
isn’t simple, but once you understand some In this opening section of the book I’ll
important fundamentals you’ll be better provide practical guidance that will help you
informed to make a good choice. One thing make the right camera choice for you. However,
you should remember is that the camera is it’s important to remember that this information
just a tool used in the process of making is a guide only—it’s vital to try different models
great photographs—an artist’s vision creates before you make your final purchase, so test
the image, the camera simply captures it. as much as possible before buying. Your final
Many of you may already have some camera choice will ultimately come down to
background knowledge of photography, how you prefer to work and your own
whether from studying art at high school or photographic style.
college, or simply through practicing by
yourself. My first experience of photography is
still etched into my memory from the two years I BELOW RIGHT
spent at college—the red light of the darkroom, A great camera kit In an urban environment
the smell of chemicals, and the many long hours consists of a digital try using different levels
I spent trying to perfect my compositions. One SLR and a set of of height (like this wall)
thing I knew for sure during those years was fixed or prime lenses to create interesting
that I was desperate to learn and develop as a that suit the user’s perspectives.
photographer, and so I tried to learn as much as shooting preferences.
London workshop, 2011.
possible from research and using new tools. It is
those first years that really shaped who I wanted Photo: Oscar May
interchangeable lenses
Unlike fixed lenses, which
are built onto the camera,
interchangeable lenses are
removable. The benefit
of this is that compatible
lenses of varying focal
lengths (from wide-angle
to telephoto) can be used
with the same camera body.
camera back
In digital medium-format or
large-format cameras, the
camera back contains a large
imaging sensor, and replaces
the conventional film magazine.
In this way the same camera
system can be used either
as a film or digital camera.
10 EQUIPMENT
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Equipment CAMERAS
Digital versus film found the experience of developing film and
Although you may think that today’s creating prints in the darkroom invaluable.
photographers work in an entirely digital world, It really makes you appreciate the process of
there are still plenty of professionals shooting photography and how the old masters worked.
on film cameras. There are advantages and Shooting film will help you limit the number of
disadvantages to shooting either digital or film, images you take, really think about composition
and whichever you choose often comes down to and exposure, and demonstrate how much time
the type of photography you want to produce. and patience you need in order to produce one
angle oF VieW
great photograph.
Essentially, what your camera
Advantages of film: One advantage of shooting
is able to “see.” Your angle of
film is the initial outlay for equipment. You can Advantages of digital: The biggest advantage
view will be determined by
buy good-quality film cameras for a fraction of of shooting digitally is the fast workflow and
what kind of lens you have,
the price of digital cameras. The price of film low comparative cost of producing each image.
from wide to telephoto.
and developing costs will quickly add up and In today’s fast-paced fashion photography
Focal length in the long run thus make shooting film more industry I need to be able to produce great
The distance between the expensive. However, I would recommend that images quickly and at low cost due to the
optical center of a lens and its all photographers try shooting film at least once, competition in the fashion world and to satisfy
point of focus when the lens is particularly with black-and-white film. the needs of my clients. Essentially, digital Digital camera types beautiful, professional-looking images. With aBOVE LEfT
focused on infinity. The focal When shooting film you have to get it photography enables me to produce images affordable entry-level models now available, The Sony NEX-5 is an example
length of a lens determines its right in-camera, as you don’t have the option quickly, relatively cheaply, and easily. Point and shoot/compact: Point-and-shoot DSLRs offer the best trade-off between cost and of an EVIL camera—the body
angle of view. of reviewing shots and retaking them. I also cameras do exactly as their name suggests. quality and are the most appropriate option for is the size and weight of a
They’re intended to be used in fully automatic anyone starting out in fashion photography. slightly chunky compact camera,
point-and-shoot mode to provide, for example, and it gives the discerning
fun holiday pictures or photos of friends on Medium format/large format: Medium- and photographer a full range
USING DIGITAL a night out. They aren’t designed to be used large-format cameras, such as those made of photography options—and
by a professional photographer on a shoot. by Mamiya and Hasselblad, can often shoot far more flexibility than any
Why digital is most popular with the majority of
They have little manual control, and as a either film or digital, depending on the type compact camera.
fashion photographers:
professional you want to take full control over of “back” attached to the camera. In either
CENTER
Digital Film your images through shutter speed, aperture, case they are capable of producing higher-
The Canon S100—a point-and-
• Instant feedback • Long developing process ISO, interchangeable lenses and selective focus, quality images than DSLRs because of the large
shoot or compact camera.
• Inexpensive before images can be viewed to get the best out of your images. Furthermore, film/sensor format. These cameras are mainly
• Large variable • Expensive processing compact cameras have very small image sensors, used in big production shoots that require aBOVE RIGHT
ISO range (products/running costs) and although in bright conditions they can exceptional image quality. Medium-format The Canon EOS Rebel T3i—an
• More choice of • ISO range dependent produce acceptable results, in low light images camera bodies, digital backs, and lenses are entry-level DSLR.
lenses on film you use are likely to be poor quality. extremely expensive and rarely used by
• Limited lenses due to
amateur photographers today.
film not being popular
in today’s industry DSLR: DSLR stands for “digital single lens
reflex”—these are the cameras you see most EVIL/MILC: EVIL or MILC cameras are the
professionals working with. Although they are half-way house between SLR and compact
bulkier than compact cameras, they have much cameras. EVIL stands for Electronic Viewfinder,
larger image sensors (which provide higher Interchangeable Lens and MILC for Mirrorless
LEfT image quality) and support interchangeable Interchangeable Lens Camera. They are
Me on-set with photographer Joey L. In lenses, so you can shoot wide-angle to long generally a lot smaller than SLR cameras, but
low-light situations, like this shoot that took telephoto. All DSLRs let you have manual or accept various accessories and different lenses,
place in an abandoned building, window light semimanual control when shooting, and with which makes them more flexible and adaptable
can make for a beautifully lit portrait. practice these cameras will allow you to take than bridge or compact cameras.
12 EQUIPMENT CaMERaS 13
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Equipment CHOOSING YOUR DSLR
Price Which brand? Dp reVieW
The cost of DSLRs varies enormously, but RESEARCH BEFORE YOU BUY Try to avoid making your decision based on www.dpreview.com is a great source for
in terms of image quality, a camera costing Seek advice from a large independent camera store. brand loyalty. Just because all your friends comparing and contrasting different camera
thousands of dollars won’t necessarily produce A good salesperson will be able to factor your needs have Nikon cameras, doesn’t necessarily brands. They produce excellent reviews on
and provide you with a clear list of your options
significantly better images than one costing mean you should too (although it can help most DSLRs and compatible lenses.
(although it’s important to do your own research).
hundreds. Much of the additional cost of more when it comes to sharing lenses). Nikon,
There are numerous magazines, websites, and
expensive cameras is down to added functions Canon, Sony, Pentax, and all the other
forums where you can learn and ask questions. It BELOW
and shooting options and higher build quality, manufacturers produce excellent camera
may be that you find a store that’s happy to let you
The Canon EOS 5D MKII I was using for
such as weather sealing—specifications that try a camera for a day or so. Alternatively, if you equipment. Though do bear in mind that
this shoot has a full-frame CMOS sensor. This
may not be important to you at this stage. have friends or relatives who share your passion for after a few years you’re likely to have lenses
means it gives a true wide-angle view, without
It’s probably fair to say there are no really photography ask them what they think and see if that are only compatible with that camera
cropping or magnification effects.
bad DSLRs on the market at the moment, so you can borrow their equipment for an afternoon. manufacturer, so changing brands later down
autoFocus in some respects you can’t go wrong. Even the line can mean having to change all your SHEER Magazine shoot (www.sheermag.com).
Autofocus (AF) systems use the lowest specification DSLRs are capable of lenses as well. Photo: Oscar May
sensors and tiny motors to producing large, high-quality prints in the right
automatically focus a lens hands. Read reviews and think about what
at specific focusing points. you want from your camera. As we’ll see later, Sensor size
As opposed to manual focus image quality is more likely to be governed by One factor that is often cited as differentiating
mode, where you manually the quality of the lenses you use rather than between a camera intended for professional
set the point of focus. the camera body itself. use versus enthusiast use, particularly with
fashion and portrait photography, is sensor
sensor
When budgeting for your camera equipment, size. Generally speaking, DSLRs can be broadly
A camera’s sensor is an array of
remember you’ll also need to cost in items divided into two groups, “full-frame” sensor
photodiodes that converts light
such as: cameras and “cropped-sensor” cameras.
into electric signals, which are
• Memory cards • Filters Full-frame cameras are so called because the
then recorded as digital data.
• Camera bag • Tripod sensor is the same size as a 35mm film frame,
Depth oF FielD • Extra battery • Lenses the traditional format of film SLR cameras.
The distance in front of, and • Flash Although cropped sensors vary slightly in size,
behind, the point of focus that they’re generally around two thirds the size of a
appears sharp in an image. What are you going to use your camera for? full-frame sensor. Without going into too much
A wide aperture results in a As you’re reading this book, naturally you’re technical detail at this stage, full-frame sensors
shallow depth of field, while going to want a camera that’s suitable for are often seen as providing better image quality
small apertures produce a fashion portraits, but are you interested in any (particularly when shooting in low light) and
deeper depth of field. other genres of photography? Are you a keen allow greater control over depth of field, which
traveler and will you want to take your camera is important when you want to focus only on a
hotshoe
on adventurous journeys? Do you like to shoot very specific part of the image.
A hotshoe is a mounting
fast-moving action, such as sports? Is street The other important consideration with
point on the top of a camera
photography also an interest? Questions such as cropped sensors is that because they have a
to attach a flash unit or
these will determine how rugged your camera smaller angle of view, the focal length of lenses
remote triggering system.
has to be, how good the autofocus system is, or is effectively increased by a factor of around
croppeD sensor how large the body is. These are the sorts of 1.6. This is known as the “crop factor.” So on a
Term used to describe any things that do impact on the price of cameras, cropped-sensor camera a 50mm lens will have
sensor smaller than the size of and you need to be sure you’re spending your an effective focal length (efl) of 80mm. If you
a frame of conventional 35mm money on a camera that’s appropriate for your use a cropped-sensor camera you’ll need to bear
film. A “full-frame” sensor is particular needs. this in mind when you come to purchase
comparable in size to 35mm film. additional lenses.
14 EQUIPMENT CHOOSING yOUR DSLR 15
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Equipment LENSES
in orDer to create a sharp, high-quality cropping effect) such as 16–35mm, medium A fashion photographer’s lens kit setting of ƒ/1.2). Other 50mm lenses with BELOW LEfT
image you need a good-quality lens. A zooms that range from 24–70mm, and telephoto As fashion photography is a unique combination slightly smaller maximum apertures of ƒ/1.8 are Photographing your subject
photographer can own the best camera body in zooms that offer 70–200mm. Although zoom of all types of photography, it is important to also available and considerably less expensive, mid-movement is a dynamic
the world, but if he or she is using a poor-quality lenses covering much wider ranges such as have several different lenses on-set at all times. and I would consider an essential purchase for way of capturing them and
lens the image is going to appear just average 55–300mm are available, these are generally of In order to choose the best lens for the any budding fashion photographer. adds interest to the image.
compared with a photographer working with a lower quality than zooms with narrower ranges. situation, you have to understand what each
NY campaign for
great lens and an entry-level DLSR camera. So, The advantage of zoom lenses is that they lens does. I personally use Canon, but similar 85mm ƒ/1.2: This is one of my favorite lenses. It’s The Fold clothing
when it comes to buying new lenses, buy the offer a variety of framing and composition lenses from other brands are freely available. great for portraits and produces stunning image (www.thefoldlondon.com).
best you can afford. options thanks to the variation in the viewing Check out www.dpreview.com for reliable quality. When shooting naturalistic portraiture
Photo: Kait Robinson
The varying focal lengths of interchangeable angles they provide—all from the same spot. and thorough reviews. Here are some you should always photograph your subject with
lenses give you far more creative control over Prime lenses are fixed at a certain focal recommendations from my Canon kit and a focal length of at least 70mm due to distortion.
your images than anything else in your kit bag, length, so if you want to get closer or farther what they are best used for. Anything over 70mm is true to the eye and will BELOW
so it’s important that over time you develop a away from your subject you have to use your complement your subject. A dedicated equipment bag is
strong visual understanding of how focal length feet. Popular prime lens focal lengths for fashion 24–70mm ƒ/2.8: This lens is a safe option for necessary for all kinds of shoot.
impacts on your images. are 35mm, 50mm, and 85mm. The advantages studio and on-location work. The 24–70mm 70–200mm ƒ/2.8: When shooting beauty work Your kit is expensive, so quality
It’s vital to stress that all successful of these lenses is that they are generally sharper zoom gives a great range for a number of it is vital you have a lens that you can zoom into is important : look for a bag
photographers use a variation of focal length than all but the most expensive zoom lenses shots—including full-length shots and the your subject’s face without distorting important with separate compartments
in creative ways no matter what genre of and have a wider maximum aperture. This last option to shoot wide portraits. I favor using features. This is a great overall lens for very and good cushioning to guard
photography they work in. For example, using attribute means they allow for fast shutter this lens because of the flexibility as you don’t close-up portrait or beauty work. against damage.
a wide-angle lens commonly used in landscape speeds in low light, and narrow depth of field, always have time to change your lens.
photos for a portrait shot can introduce a both of which can be important on a shoot. Macro lenses: Macro lenses (such as the 100mm
dynamic angle of view and distort an image in 50mm ƒ/1.2: On a full-frame camera body this or 60mm macros lenses) aren’t considered too
an interesting way. Similarly, many landscape So which type should you go for? lens is great for all types of work. I use this lens important in fashion photography, but fun for
photographers use telephoto lenses (often used The choice of one over the other really depends in location environments when working with beauty photographers wanting to experiment
for portraits) to isolate specific elements of a on what you require in your style of work. natural light (due to its maximum aperture with extreme close-ups (such as eyes or lips).
scene and for the foreshortening effect such Good-quality zooms produce images that
lenses have. are nearly as good as prime lenses, but the
maximum aperture is unlikely to be as large.
Zoom lenses versus prime lenses Lenses with a greater range of aperture settings
A zoom lens is a lens in which the photographer provide more artistic choice, but zoom lenses
can vary the focal length. Broadly speaking, offer greater versatility. Many professionals have
there are three categories of zoom lens: a mix of prime and zoom lenses, often buying
wide-angle zooms (taking into account the prime lenses for their favorite focal lengths.
CHOOSING YOUR LENS
macro lens
Macro means “macroscopic” The table below gives an indication of the type of
(large) and refers to lenses photography for which typical focal lengths are used.
that are specifically designed Lens focal length Lens type Typical photography type
for close-up work. Less than 21mm Extreme wide angle Architecture
21–35mm Wide angle Landscape
on location
35mm–70mm Normal Fashion or documentary
Refers to a photoshoot
70mm–135mm Medium telephoto Portraiture/beauty
produced at a location other 135mm + Telephoto Wildlife/beauty
than the studio, such as outside
or in a location house.
16 EQUIPMENT LENSES 17
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Equipment LENSES
BELOW RIGHT
Lens brands memorable images. Be aware, though, that the
This photograph was The Lensbaby, if used
While you’re likely to get better-quality images glass of creative lenses can be of a lower grade
taken on location correctly, creates an
from proprietary lenses, such as those made by and there are sometimes focal or quality issues.
with the Lensbaby interesting point of
holga Canon, Nikon, Sony or Pentax, for example, as
2.0. It is a perfect view and is useful to
A popular plastic film camera these have been designed specifically for the Lensbaby: Lensbaby makes creative lenses for
tool for enhancing a keep the focus on a
that creates uniquely color- relevant camera bodies, these are expensive, most DSLR body types. Known for their very
whimsical theme— certain part of the
shifted images due to light becoming eye-wateringly so with those lenses shallow depth of field, results from the Lensbaby
like this set with subject that you want
leakage. Check out www. with large apertures. There are options on the can also mimic the results from toy cameras
Danielle. people to notice.
lomography.com/holga for market for photographers who are working with such as the Holga. These produce the much-
further information. a tight budget. Brands such as Sigma, Tokina loved and very popular “light leakage” effect. Model: Danielle Model: Danielle
Foster Foster
and Tamron produce good-quality lenses for Lensbaby lenses have to be focused manually
Fish-eye
slightly less than the larger brands. by moving the end of the lens, or the “bellows,” Makeup: Keiko Makeup: Keiko
A super-wide lens that gives As with any photographic purchase, see if to create your own selective focus. You can find Nakamura Nakamura
a near 360° viewing angle.
you can try before you buy so that you can out more about Lensbaby at www.lensbaby.com. Canon EOS 5D Canon EOS 5D
light leakage compare and assess your various options. ISO 400 ISO 400
Caused by a hole or gap in Fish-eye: Fish-eye lenses give an extremely ƒ/4 1/800 ƒ/4 1/400
the camera body where light Creative lenses wide perspective on your subject, and create a
can leak in exposing the sensor/ As well as standard lenses, there are a number round-shaped image with a wide angle of view.
film to a section of light. It is of creative lenses currently available that are They are fun to use in environments such as
popular in Holga or “toy camera” popular with many younger and experimental busy streets or crowded concerts. The current
photography where this helps photographers. Creative lenses are fun to Nikkor fish-eye is a perfect example of this—at
enhance the theme. play around with and can produce uniquely 6mm it can even see behind itself!
LEfT
tip
Behind the scenes on
In order to get the best
my “Velveteen Rabbit”
out of creative lenses
editorial shoot.
such as a Lensbaby, you
When I’m working in
need to practice to gain
the studio I’m always
confidence with them.
prepared with my Canon
24–70mm ƒ/2.8 zoom
lens. This is due to the
variety needed in my
editorial work; when
I’m on-set, there isn’t
much time to think
about changing lenses
as the time between
shooting and clothing
changes is so short. This
lens works perfectly all
round—from beauty to
full-length shots.
Photo: Nicole de Waal
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