Fabrics and Pattern Cutting

352 Pages·2013·16.19 MB·English

by  Winifred Aldrich

Table of Contents
Cover
Title page
Copyright page
Acknowledgements
Introduction
Garment design and the selection of fabrics
PART ONE: FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS
AND BODY SHAPE
Chapter 1 Fabric characteristics and garment shapes
Fabric characteristics and garment shapes
FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS AND GARMENT TOILES
FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS AND BODY SHAPES
Chapter 2 Fabric testing
Fabric testing
TESTING METHODS AND FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS
THE SIMPLE TESTING METHODS
FABRIC WEIGHT
FABRIC THICKNESS
FABRIC DRAPE
FABRIC SHEAR
FABRIC STRETCH
FABRICS AND 3D CAD IMAGES
Chapter 3 Selecting fabrics
Selecting fabrics
Fabrics and fibres
Natural fibres and fabrics
Cotton
Natural fibres
Flax (linen) bamboo hemp ramie
Natural fibres
Silk
Natural fibres
Wool: hair alpaca angora camel cashmere mohair
Natural fibres
Blends and mixtures
Natural fibres
Man-made fibres and fabrics
Viscose: modal cupro lyocell
Man-made regenerated fibres
Acetate diacetate triacetate
Man-made semi-synthetic fibres
Polyamide (nylon)
Man-made synthetic fibres
Polyester
Man-made synthetic fibres
Acrylic modacrylic
Man-made synthetic fibres
Elastane
Man-made synthetic fibres
Other fibres and fabrics
Blends and mixtures
Man-made and natural fibres
Coatings and laminates
Man-made synthetic fibres
Leather: fur
Non-textile fabrics
Fabric names and finishes
Names of major garment fabrics
Names of leather and fur
Names of interlinings
Fabric finishes and pattern cutting
PART TWO: FABRICS AND SIMPLE
PATTERN CUTTING
Chapter 4 Simple ‘flat’ cutting
Very basic shapes
Simple geometric shapes: the bell and the balloon
Simple geometric shapes: the triangle
Geometric cutting: shaped overlays
Geometric cutting: trousers
Simple ‘flat’ body shapes
Geometric cutting: the basic grid
The simple kimono block: angled sleeve
The simple kimono block: widened sleeve angle
The simple kimono block: gussets
The simple kimono block: dolman sleeve
Chapter 5 Simple ‘form’ cutting
Simple ‘form’ cutting
The bust and shoulder darts
Transferring the bust and shoulder darts
Darts and the balanced body shape
Darts in seams
The bust dart in ‘cut and spread’
The bust dart in overlays
The easy fitting overshape block: simple jackets and coats
The easy fitting overshape block: extravagant flare
PART THREE: FABRICS AND THE BODY
FORM
Chapter 6 Cutting to fit the body form (woven fabrics)
Basic close fitting waist shaping (dress blocks)
Horizontal close fitting body shaping (dress blocks)
Classic semi-fitting waist shaping (jacket blocks)
More complex close body shaping (jacket and dress blocks)
Classic easy fitting body shaping (jacket block)
Chapter 7 Crossway cutting
Crossway cutting: classic shaping
Crossway cutting: cutting closer to the body
Crossway cutting: closer fitting cowl back
Crossway cutting: easier fitting
Crossway cutting and draped sections
Crossway cutting and mixing the fabric grains
Chapter 8 Stretch fabrics and the body form
Stretch fabrics – knitted
Very close fitting blocks (knitted fabrics)
Close fitting blocks (knitted fabrics)
Cutting with dart and seam shaping (knitted fabrics)
Stretch fabrics – woven
Close fitting bodice shaping (woven/stretch fabrics)
Close fitting skirt shaping (woven/stretch fabrics)
Simple coat shape – comparisons of fabric stretch (woven/stretch
fabrics)
PART FOUR: FABRICS AND COMPLEX
CUTTING
Chapter 9 Complex ‘flat’ cutting
Complex ‘flat’ cutting – knitted fabrics
Complex ‘flat’ cutting: coat (knitted fabrics)
Complex ‘flat’ cutting: dress (knitted fabrics)
Geometric ‘flat’ cutting: trousers (knitted fabrics)
Complex ‘flat’ cutting – woven and leather fabrics
Complex ‘flat’ cutting: coat – lambskin
Complex ‘flat’ cutting: jacket (woven fabrics)
Complex ‘flat’ cutting: using the shirt block (woven fabrics)
Creating a ‘flat’ body map for cutting
Chapter 10 Supporting fabrics
Supporting fabrics
Structure: fitting the body
Structure: padding
Structure: mounting
Structure: classic and exaggerated shapes
Chapter 11 Combining fabrics
Combining fabrics
Combining fabrics: simple insertions
Combining fabrics: complex insertions
Combination of fabrics and techniques
Combining fabrics: appliqué
Combining fabrics: framing fabrics
PART FIVE: BASIC TEXTILE
TECHNOLOGY
Chapter 12 Basic textile technology
Basic textile technology
Fibres
Yarns
Fabric construction
Fabric finishes
Fabric production
New developments in fabric processes
Ecology
PART SIX: MODEL FIGURES AND
GARMENT BLOCKS
Chapter 13 Model stands and figures to reproduce
Chapter 14 Creating the one-fifth and full-scale blocks
(methods – manual, CAD or Internet access)
The basic blocks
Full size blocks from the Web site – printing on A0 printers
Printing full size blocks from an A4 printer
APPENDICES
Appendix 1: The original research methods used for obtaining
the fabric assessment data
Appendix 2: Established fabric tests used in industry
Chapter Index

This edition first published 2013
© 2013 Winifred Aldrich
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John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex,
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
ISBN: 978-1-119-96717-0 (pbk), ISBN: 978-1-118-54814-1 (ebk), ISBN: 978-