Ethiopia & Djibouti

355 Pages·2017·17.18 MB·English

by  Jean-Bernard Carillet

P
D
F
EEtthhiiooppiiaa &
DDjjiibboouuti
PDF ebook
Edition 6th Edition
Release Date Sep 2017
Pages 352
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4 easy-to-use How to use this book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
r 5
Beaches Eating
2 6
PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking
C 3
Courses Entertainment
Your planning tool kit
T 7
Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
ranges, by writer preference.
ON THE ROAD
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Ethiopia &
Djibouti
Northern
Ethiopia
p63 Djibouti
p306
Eastern
WEtehsioteprina #_Ap3d0dis Ababa Ethp1io77pia
p202
Southern
Ethiopia
p133

Jean-Bernard Carillet, Anthony Ham
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Ethiopia & ADDIS ABABA . . . . . . 30 SOUTHERN
Djibouti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 ETHIOPIA . . . . . . . . . 133
Ethiopia & Djibouti Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Butajira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Hosaina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Ethiopia & Djibouti’s Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Sodo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Top 14 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Rift Valley Lakes . . . . . . 138
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16 Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 42 Lake Ziway . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Lake Langano . . . . . . . . . . 139
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Abiata-Shala Lakes
Month by Month . . . . . . . . 21
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 139
Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 54
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Shashemene . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .56
Regions at a Glance . . . . . 27 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Awasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Lephis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Bale Mountains . . . . . . . 146
Getting There & Away . . . . 59
Dodola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . 61
Bale Mountains
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 147
NORTHERN
Dola-Mena . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
ETHIOPIA . . . . . . . . . . 63
DIETMAR TEMPS, COLOGNE / GETTY IM DBLGGWaaeooukhbnrnegirder eoTe nD rarLia . aanib . . ra& . . . . a . . . . nK . . . .oo . . . .s . . . . .s . . . . .o . . . . .y . . . . .e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .688677662557 SDYBYSMaaaooiolbbnlruyaaeec .ta nllt .hooluea . . aWt . . . Nor . . .iy a . . .lKdt . . . . ile . . . .oifn . . . .ne . . . .y a . . . .al . . . . . P . . . . .a . . . . .r . . . . .k . . . . . . . . .– . . . . . . . . . . 111115555534355
AGES © SNiamtiioenna Ml Poaurnkt . a .in .s . . . . . . . . 86 AArrobua nMdi n . .c .h . & . . . . . . . . . .156
Arba Minch . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Aksum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
SURMI VILLAGE, KIBISH Adwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Nechisar National Park . . 159
P175
Dorze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Adigrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Konso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Rock-hewn Churches
of Tigray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Konso Kantas . . . . . . . . . . 163
ETHIOPIA / GETTY IMAGES © MDLDKaoaeelmsnikbsaebeikleoel .ia ll . . . c D . . .h . . .ea . . .p . . . . re . . . . . . . .ss . . . .i . . . .o . . . .n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111113211300691 TOJMKihemnayekgo aAoL . VfoN .aaw .ral . . lete . .iro . .y .n . . .a . . . . .l . . .P . . .a . . .r . .k . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111166774006
Turmi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
Bati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Arbore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Menz-Guassa
Community Dimeka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Conservation Area . . . . . . 131 Kangaten & Kolcho . . . . . 173
BET MARYAM CHURCH Debre Markos . . . . . . . . . . 132
P73
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Omorate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Nekemte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Ethiopia
Weyto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Bedele . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Southwest Metu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Ethiopia’s History . . . . . 224
Omo Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Tepi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
Ethiopian Culture . . . . . 245
Kibish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Mizan Tefari . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Omo National Park . . . . . 175 Jimma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Legendary Ethiopia . . .260
Weliso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Ethiopian Cuisine . . . . . 264
EASTERN Kafa Biosphere Ethiopia’s
ETHIOPIA . . . . . . . . . . 177 Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Environment . . . . . . . . . 272
Bishoftu (Debre Zeyit) . . . 179 The Western
Lowlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Awash National Park . . . . 181
Gambela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Djibouti Road . . . . . . . . . . 184 SURVIVAL
Gambela
Asaita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 GUIDE
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 220
Dire Dawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Around Dire Dawa . . . . . . 191 DJIBOUTI . . . . . . . . . 306 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .280
Harar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
Djibouti City . . . . . . . . . 308 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
Around Harar . . . . . . . . . . 200
Jijiga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Around Djibouti . . . . . .318 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
Lac Assal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
Language . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331
Lac Abbé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
WESTERN Goda Mountains . . . . . . . . 319 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
ETHIOPIA . . . . . . . . . 202
Plage des Sables Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . . 351
The Western Blancs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321
Highlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Tadjoura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321
Addis Alem . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Obock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
Ambo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Understand Djibouti . . . 323
Mt Wenchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 325
Guder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
SPECIAL
FEATURES
Top Experiences . . . . . . . .8
Ethiopian Culture . . . . . 245
Legendary Ethiopia . . .260
Ethiopian Cuisine . . . . . 264
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
4
Welcome to
Ethiopia &
Djibouti
Ethiopia is like nowhere else on the
planet – a beautiful country blessed with
a peerless history, fabulous wildlife and
some of Africa’s most soulful peoples.
Nature’s Bounty Outdoor Adventures
Ethiopia is one of Africa’s most beautiful Welcome to Africa’s most underrated wild-
countries and its landscapes are epic in both life destination. The Ethiopian wolf is the
scale and beauty. Here is a place where you ultimate prize – the sighting of a lifetime.
can trek more than 3000m above sea level There are gelada monkeys across the high
or visit the lowest place on the African con- northern plateau as well as other primates,
tinent, the Danakil Depression. In between while watching the extravagantly horned
are lush highlands and stirring deserts, and sure-footed walia ibex cling to a rocky
vertiginous canyons, sweeping savannah, precipice is one of the great sights in na-
vast lakes and high plateaus. Lying at the ture. The birdwatching, too, ranks among
convergence of three tectonic plates, Dji- the best in Africa. In Djibouti, there’s
bouti offers a unique geological landscape superb hiking in the Goda Mountains, awe-
including the vast salt lake of Lac Assal and some whale-shark spotting in the Gulf of
the bizarre lunarscape of Lac Abbé. Tadjoura, as well as stunning diving amid
Historical Wonders coral-encrusted wrecks off Djibouti City.
The only African country to have escaped Peoples with Proud Traditions
European colonialism, Ethiopia has re-
When it comes to human cultures, Ethiopia
tained much of its cultural identity and its
story is one of Africa’s most fascinating. It has an embarrassment of riches. There are
all begins with Lucy, one of our most cele- the Surmi, Afar, Mursi, Karo, Hamer, Nuer
brated ancient ancestors, moves effortlessly and Anuak, whose ancient customs and
into the realm of ancient Aksum and then traditions have remained almost entirely in-
takes on power and passion as Christian- tact. A highlight of any trip here is witness-
ity takes centre stage. And unlike so many ing one of the many festivals that are an
other places in Africa, the ancients here left integral part of the traditional culture, from
behind some extraordinary monuments to age-old ceremonies marking rites of pas-
faith and power which serve as focal points sage to Christian celebrations of singular
for so many wonderful journeys. In neigh- passion, the impact upon those who witness
bouring Djibouti, you’ll have the chance to such events can provide travel memories to
marvel at exceptionally well-preserved rock last a lifetime.
engravings hidden in the mountains.
5
SARINE ARSLANIAN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Why I Love Ethiopia
By Anthony Ham, Writer
In a lifetime of travel in Africa, I’ve never been anywhere quite like Ethiopia. It has all the
essential elements that call me back here time after time – wildlife you just don’t find else-
where, epic landscapes of rare beauty, an endlessly fascinating historical tale that provides
depth and context to any journey through the country. But there is something else at large
in Ethiopia; a spiritual dimension that infuses every aspect of travel here and brings ancient
stories and landscapes to life in a way that I’ve never encountered anywhere else on the
continent.
For more about our writers, see p352
Above: Mursi woman wearing a clay lip-plate (p169)
4
Ethiopia & Djibouti
Danakil Depression DTaihglraaky
Journey to the centre Marvel Iaslta nthdse ancient
of the Earth (p119) rock-hewn churches (p107)
KHARTOUM Kassala Adi Baba E R I T R E A ASMARA
Blue
(E3l 2O0bkemid) NileRTiverrSekimh Eigitehhniloa SMpn iUdaos 'suD ( nsp Att8ua 6nNi)nnisng Om-hajer B(aInddmaSe hSTReireleaa(k4sse5 sDzi4eea3)smRhA)eivknesruYmAebhia AAWddiwukaroAMT id g r a yiegkrealteDepresDsioannakil DDa Ialr lnot alk' aa lle i a
Debark Lake Volcano
Kosti Gallabat Simien Afdera (613m)
Metema Mountains
Gonder National
Gonder Park Sekota
Be awed by intriguing Gorgora Abune Yosef
castles (p75) (4190m)
Lake Debre Lalibela Semera
WhiteNile RiverrocSkp-lheenRRwdeoLisnsdee ar civurlhoeinibsurderRecloDrahsBgaeeurmismro e(ubspan1dd2i0G)uba BlueNileRBiuvTereraBCDnahMaahoMDriark(ert4 kebC1or0ehsM0omkDoBe)uelju(nMTeT(tean4aoiG bins3Nsto u2aAiBr1nlebGmlau aFo)eyra )NAglleism(l3eb97aAL5 baFDmkuaee)yr(s i4eHts 0Mi0ea0yemWdka)oldBiaatiRiverAwashLYoNgaaGinytegiaMowuLnidalaalnielc-e R PAAaasbasrbsiktaéa
TM(u3el3un0 dW2imel)el GhAiFmnagbleilrs DidesaEN eTk eHDm iIdt eeOCsa hLPoa mkIe eAn AMmugbeor RAAivBDerFADiBcIhSALDeibebanrNeoasABDtewiPeoraahbnrsarahkenlAnkobeAArrwbaash TAesf(ba3Mer4iG0u5laemrtaa)
NaJitkiToaGenwyaaolulm tPbaerlka GBaaAmGrobobogeblaRoiverDemGBuobrriedeoloMeWtSuoarAt eRgrRafiivarvBeoelrlersdeleJSWimaRinmliAdcvGeatlibruibfeiaear tWNyaL-eaSaltkhikoiatenel aBAa u(lLGb 3tPia7auaaj2kritrr1aaeakmgs e)ZKLiwZoaLiakkawyaeMkaeye(BDkisiehAbosNrfeet(Cal ua4Zzh1reie3ylt9aitml)o) AwC aAh s Mehr rbo ea u h nG e t H Sru ah u ige s& sinuk eWshinabe
AkoboRiverGecha DimCbhiirraa BongHaarSteebnekeesltleH S Soaswnacaintyuanaer'ys LakeS ShhaLsaahlkaeem LKeananekgaa (n4o19R0omb)e Jara
SS UO DU AT HN TepMiajNiTMaetifiPOzaoaarnmnirakol O mDo imRGieevletra GMuoguentaAinsrSbAoaLdbaaoykae NDAALeiwwlclaaahaksisesaaar GWeonnedt(o43D0B7oamdtuo)la NBaaDWltGeoio eloManlbm-aGMoaleu olPenrnaotarakinGsiCSnoWiarfve yeOb Rmivearr
Jinka Minch National Park River
Lower Omo Valley NMaatgioonal CLhaakmeo NatiBonoarla Pnaark –Daw NBoergeenlea Genale
Tradmitiaornkaelt sv i(lpla1g6e4s) and OmorateTurmiParWkeyto KonYsoabelYoaSbaenloc tWuailrdylifea River River
Chew Bahir
(Lake Stephanie) Wachile
Lake
Turkana Bale Mountains
Sibiloi Mega Spot rare and beautiful
National Park animals (p146)
Addis Ababa Moyale
U G A N D A Eat Ethiopian at
Yod Abyssinia (p53) K E N Y A
42ºE
0 200 km
0 100 miles
16ºN
The international boundaries on
this map serve as indications only.
The Ethiopia–Eritrea border 5
R Y E M E N awaits formal UN demarcation.
e SAN'A The self-proclaimed Republic of Somaliland
d Al-Hudaydah is currently an internationally unrecognised
but de facto sovereign state.
S Lac Assal
e The lowest point on the
a
African continent (p318) 14ºN
HIsalannisdhs 48ºE
46ºE
Assab Aden A d e n
Les Sept o f
Frères G u l f
44ºE
D J I B O U T I
12ºN
Obock
Galafi
Lac Tadjoura
Assal Ali DLJoIyBaOadUaTI CITY Bosasso
Dikhil Sabieh Zeila
Gelille
Lac Abbé
Starkly beautiful
Berbera lunarscapes (p318)
Togo-
Wuchale S O M A L I L A N D
Dire Dawa HARGEISA
Jijiga
Harar Babille
8ºN
River O g a d e n
D e s e r t
Warder
Kebri Dehar
Harar
W
abe ShebeleRiver Shilabo Ah icsittoyr iwcaitlh a au rpaa (lpp1a9b1l)e 6ºN
I N D I A N
O C E A N
Ferfer
S O M A L I A ELEVATION
Dolo Odo
4000m 4ºN
3000m
2000m
1000m
0
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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Ethiopia & Djibouti’s
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