Engineering Apparel Fabrics and Garments

413 Pages·2009·5.18 MB·English

by  J Fan

Engineering apparel fabrics and garments
The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing
The Textile Institute is a unique organisation in textiles, clothing and footwear.
Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has
individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is
to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and disseminate
information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries.
Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its members
and the textile industry. To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into
partnership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members
and the textile industry continue to have access to high calibre titles on textile
science and technology.
Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration with The
Textile Institute. Through this arrangement, the Institute provides an Editorial
Board which advises Woodhead on appropriate titles for future publication and
suggests possible editors and authors for these books. Each book published under
this arrangement carries the Institute’s logo.
Woodhead books published in collaboration with The Textile Institute are offered
to Textile Institute members at a substantial discount. These books, together with
those published by The Textile Institute that are still in print, are offered on the
Woodhead web site at: www.woodheadpublishing.com. Textile Institute books
still in print are also available directly from the Institute’s web site at: www.
textileinstitutebooks.com.
A list of Woodhead books on textile science and technology, most of which have
been published in collaboration with The Textile Institute, can be found at the end
of the contents pages.
Woodhead Publishing in Textiles: Number 96
Engineering apparel
fabrics and garments
J. Fan and L. Hunter
Oxford Cambridge New Delhi
Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute
Woodhead Publishing Limited, Abington Hall, Granta Park, Great Abington,
Cambridge CB21 6AH, UK
www.woodheadpublishing.com
Woodhead Publishing India Private Limited, G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28 Ansari
Road, Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002, India
Published in North America by CRC Press LLC, 6000 Broken Sound Parkway, NW,
Suite 300, Boca Raton, FL 33487, USA
First published 2009, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC
© Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2009
The authors have asserted their moral rights.
Every effort has been made to trace and acknowledge ownership of copyright.
The publishers will be glad to hear from any copyright holders whom it has not
been possible to contact.
This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded
sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated.
Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but
the authors and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all
materials. Neither the authors nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with
this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or
indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book.
Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfi lming
and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without
permission in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited.
The consent of Woodhead Publishing Limited does not extend to copying for
general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale. Specifi c
permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited for
such copying.
Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered
trademarks, and are used only for identifi cation and explanation, without intent
to infringe.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
Woodhead Publishing ISBN 978-1-84569-134-9 (book)
Woodhead Publishing ISBN 978-1-84569-644-3 (e-book)
CRC Press ISBN 978-1-4398-0972-3
CRC Press order number N10093
The publishers’ policy is to use permanent paper from mills that operate a
sustainable forestry policy, and which has been manufactured from pulp which is
processed using acid-free and elemental chlorine-free practices. Furthermore, the
publishers ensure that the text paper and cover board used have met acceptable
environmental accreditation standards.
Typeset by SNP Best-set Typesetter Ltd., Hong Kong
Printed by TJ International Limited, Padstow, Cornwall, UK
Contents
Author contact details xi
Woodhead Publishing in Textiles xiii
Preface xix
1 Handle and making-up performance of fabrics
and garments 1
L. Hunter and E. L. Hunter
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Fabric Objective Measurement (FOM) of fabric handle
and making-up performance 4
1.3 Other methods 27
1.4 Effects of fi bre properties 28
1.5 Effects of yarn properties 30
1.6 Effects of fabric properties 31
1.7 Effects of dyeing and fi nishing (chemical and mechanical)
treatments 33
1.8 General points 38
1.9 Sources of further information and advice 42
1.10 References 42
2 Wrinkling of fabrics and garments 52
L. Hunter
2.1 Introduction 52
2.2 The measurement of wrinkle and crease recovery 54
2.3 Surface smoothness after repeated laundering 55
2.4 Factors affecting fabric wrinkling and recovery 55
2.5 Factors affecting wrinkling during wear 57
2.6 Effects of fi bre properties 58
2.7 Effects of yarn and fabric parameters 62
2.8 Effects of fi bre, yarn and fabric processing parameters 65
2.9 Sources of further information and advice 67
2.10 Concluding remarks 68
2.11 References 68
v
vi Contents
3 Pilling of fabrics and garments 71
L. Hunter
3.1 Introduction 71
3.2 Effects of fi bre composition and properties 75
3.3 Effects of yarn structure and properties 79
3.4 Effects of fabric structure and properties 81
3.5 Effects of fi bre, yarn and fabric processing parameters 82
3.6 Sources of further information and advice 83
3.7 Concluding remarks 83
3.8 References 85
4 Bagging of fabrics and garments 87
L. Hunter
4.1 Introduction 87
4.2 The measurement of bagging 90
4.3 Effects of fi bre properties 95
4.4 Effects of yarn properties 96
4.5 Effects of fabric properties 96
4.6 Effects of garment construction 97
4.7 Effect of fi nishing 97
4.8 Fabric bagging prediction and modelling 97
4.9 Sources of further information and advice 99
4.10 Concluding remarks 99
4.11 References 100
5 Fabric and garment drape 102
L. Hunter, J. Fan and D. Chau
5.1 Introduction 102
5.2 Drape measurement 103
5.3 Engineering fabric drape 107
5.4 Empirical prediction of drape 111
5.5 Modelling fabric and garment drape 117
5.6 Drape models in CAD and Internet systems 121
5.7 Sources of further information and advice 124
5.8 Concluding remarks 124
5.9 References 125
6 Appearance issues in garment processing 131
J. Fan, L. Lau and L. Hunter
6.1 Introduction 131
6.2 Seam appearance 131
Contents vii
6.3 Appearance issues in fusing 141
6.4 Appearance issues in garment dyeing 147
6.5 Appearance issues in pressing 152
6.6 Storage and packaging 155
6.7 Concluding remarks 156
6.8 References 157
7 Durability of fabrics and garments 161
L. Hunter
7.1 Introduction 161
7.2 Abrasion resistance 165
7.3 Fabric and garment strength 174
7.4 Effects of dyeing and fi nishing on fabric strength 193
7.5 Modelling and predicting fabric strength 194
7.6 Sources of further information and advice 195
7.7 Concluding remarks 195
7.8 References 195
8 Physiological comfort of fabrics and garments 201
J. Fan
8.1 Introduction 201
8.2 Different aspects of clothing physiological comfort 202
8.3 Tactile comfort 202
8.4 Assessment of tactile comfort 208
8.5 Thermophysiological comfort 211
8.6 Liquid water transport properties of fabrics and clothing 227
8.7 Garment fi t and ease of body movement 234
8.8 Pressure comfort 238
8.9 Concluding remarks 242
8.10 References 242
9 Psychological comfort of fabrics and garments 251
J. Fan
9.1 Introduction 251
9.2 Assessment of psychological comfort 252
9.3 Factors affecting psychological comfort 254
9.4 Effects of colour and surface texture 254
9.5 Effect of garment design 257
9.6 Effects of garment sizing and fi t 258
9.7 Fashion and prejudice 258
9.8 Concluding remarks 258
9.9 References 259
viii Contents
10 Flammability of fabrics and garments 261
J. Fan and L. Lau
10.1 Introduction 261
10.2 Burning mechanisms 261
10.3 Index for burning behaviour of textiles 262
10.4 Effects of fi bre composition, structure and properties 264
10.5 Effects of yarn structure and properties 267
10.6 Effects of fabric structure and properties 270
10.7 Effects of fi bre, yarn and fabric processing parameters 271
10.8 Effect of garment design 274
10.9 Test methods and standards for textiles and apparel 275
10.10 Concluding remarks 280
10.11 References 280
11 Waterproofi ng and breathability of fabrics and
garments 283
L. Hunter and J. Fan
11.1 Introduction 283
11.2 Defi nitions 285
11.3 Measurement of waterproofi ng and breathability 286
11.4 Engineering fabric and garment breathability 289
11.5 Fabric fi nishes 298
11.6 Construction of showerproof garments 300
11.7 Comparative fabric and garment properties 304
11.8 Sources of further information and advice 304
11.9 Concluding remarks 305
11.10 References 305
12 Ultraviolet protection of fabrics and garments 309
L. Hunter
12.1 Introduction 309
12.2 Measurement of UV protection 318
12.3 Effects of fi bre properties 324
12.4 Effects of yarn properties 327
12.5 Effects of fabric structure and properties 327
12.6 Effects of dyeing, fi nishing and other chemical
treatments 330
12.7 Sources of further information and advice 333
12.8 Concluding remarks 333
12.9 References 334
Contents ix
13 Laundry performance of fabrics and garments 339
L. Lau and J. Fan
13.1 Introduction 339
13.2 Laundering 340
13.3 Care labels 340
13.4 Effects of fi bre composition, structure and properties 341
13.5 Effects of sewing thread linear density 348
13.6 Effects of fabric structure and properties 348
13.7 Effects of colouration and fi nishing 351
13.8 Effect of garment design 353
13.9 Test methods and standards related to laundering and
care labelling 356
13.10 Concluding remarks 358
13.11 References 358
14 Applications of artifi cial intelligence in fabric and
garment engineering 361
J. Fan
14.1 Introduction 361
14.2 Expert systems 362
14.3 Artifi cial neural networks (ANNs) 365
14.4 Concluding remarks 378
14.5 References 379
Index 383