Table Of ContentENERGY CONSUMPTION DETERMINANTS FOR APPAREL SEWING OPERATIONS:
AN APPROACH TO ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY
by
MD. IMRANUL ISLAM
B.S., University of Dhaka, 2006
M.B.A., University of Dhaka, 2011
M.Engg., Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology, 2013
AN ABSTRACT OF A DISSERTATION
submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree
DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY
Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design
College of Human Ecology
KANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY
Manhattan, Kansas
2016
Abstract
Fashion is the second most polluting industry and accounts for 10% of global carbon
emissions. Consuming fossil fuel based electricity, the primary source of energy in the apparel
production process, causes a great deal of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions. Due to ever-
increasing apparel demand and population growth, this industry’s carbon footprint will only
grow bigger. As attention on sustainability issues in our world intensifies, research on
environmental sustainability in the apparel manufacturing industry is needed.
The purpose of this exploratory study was to investigate energy consumption (EC) of the
apparel sewing process. The objectives are to (a) identify the most influential EC factors and
develop a model to capture EC levels, (b) determine factor interrelationships, (c) identify steps to
reduce EC, and (d) explore experts’ level of concern regarding EC of the apparel manufacturing
and its contribution to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change. A mixed method research
study was employed in this study: a qualitative method was utilized to assess expert perceptions
and a quantitative method was used to measure EC and build a regression model.
This study determined dominant EC and GHG emissions factors from sewing process so
that apparel manufacturers can understand which factors need to be controlled to reduce
environmental damage. Findings from the study indicated sewing machine motor capacity,
sewing speed, and standard allocated minute (SAM) were the most influential EC factors, and
shortening the sewing time was found as the best solution to reduce energy consumption in the
apparel sewing process. The energy consumption model was found as:
Log (EC) = 9.283 + 0.771* log (SAM) + 0.386*knit fabric type + 0.260*sportswear
fabric type + 0.080*SPI - 0.008*capacity + 0.004*seam length - 0.001* speed + 0.495
The EC model along with GHG calculator (a tool to convert GHG from EC) will help the
industry to determine their EC and GHG emissions level to boost their awareness and to
encourage greater impetus for environmental actions. Finally, this study will help designers,
retailers, and consumers to pursue environmentally friendly actions in terms of decisions
regarding apparel design, sourcing, and purchasing.
ENERGY CONSUMPTION DETERMINANTS FOR APPAREL SEWING OPERATIONS:
AN APPROACH TO ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY
by
MD. IMRANUL ISLAM
B.S., University of Dhaka, 2006
M.B.A., University of Dhaka, 2011
M.Engg., Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology, 2013
A DISSERTATION
submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree
DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY
Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design
College of Human Ecology
KANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY
Manhattan, Kansas
2016
Approved by:
Major Professor
Dr. Melody L. A. LeHew
Copyright
MD. IMRANUL ISLAM
2016
Abstract
Fashion is the second most polluting industry and accounts for 10% of global carbon
emissions. Consuming fossil fuel based electricity, the primary source of energy in the apparel
production process, causes a great deal of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions. Due to ever-
increasing apparel demand and population growth, this industry’s carbon footprint will only
grow bigger. As attention on sustainability issues in our world intensifies, research on
environmental sustainability in the apparel manufacturing industry is needed.
The purpose of this exploratory study was to investigate energy consumption (EC) of the
apparel sewing process. The objectives are to (a) identify the most influential EC factors and
develop a model to capture EC levels, (b) determine factor interrelationships, (c) identify steps to
reduce EC, and (d) explore experts’ level of concern regarding EC of the apparel manufacturing
and its contribution to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change. A mixed method research
study was employed in this study: a qualitative method was utilized to assess expert perceptions
and a quantitative method was used to measure EC and build a regression model.
This study determined dominant EC and GHG emissions factors from sewing process so
that apparel manufacturers can understand which factors need to be controlled to reduce
environmental damage. Findings from the study indicated sewing machine motor capacity,
sewing speed, and standard allocated minute (SAM) were the most influential EC factors, and
shortening the sewing time was found as the best solution to reduce energy consumption in the
apparel sewing process. The energy consumption model was found as:
Log (EC) = 9.283 + 0.771* log (SAM) + 0.386*knit fabric type + 0.260*sportswear
fabric type + 0.080*SPI - 0.008*capacity + 0.004*seam length - 0.001* speed + 0.495
The EC model along with GHG calculator (a tool to convert GHG from EC) will help the
industry to determine their EC and GHG emissions level to boost their awareness and to
encourage greater impetus for environmental actions. Finally, this study will help designers,
retailers, and consumers to pursue environmentally friendly actions in terms of decisions
regarding apparel design, sourcing, and purchasing.
Table of Contents
List of Figures ................................................................................................................................ xi
List of Tables ................................................................................................................................ xii
Acknowledgements ...................................................................................................................... xiii
Chapter 1 - Introduction .................................................................................................................. 1
Background of the study ............................................................................................................. 1
Statement of the problem ............................................................................................................ 4
Purpose of the study .................................................................................................................... 5
Conceptual Framework ............................................................................................................... 6
Significance of the study ............................................................................................................. 9
Definition of Terms .................................................................................................................... 9
Overview of the Dissertation .................................................................................................... 11
Chapter 2 - Background Information and Literature .................................................................... 12
Sustainability ............................................................................................................................ 12
Climate Change and Greenhouse Gases (GHGs) ..................................................................... 15
Energy Consumption in the Textile and Apparel (TA) Supply Chain ..................................... 19
Energy Consumption in Apparel Industry ................................................................................ 25
Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Emissions from Textile and Apparel Production .............................. 30
Energy Consumption Factors in the Sewing Operation ............................................................ 33
Chapter 3 - Methodology .............................................................................................................. 42
Introduction ............................................................................................................................... 42
Objectives and Research Questions .......................................................................................... 44
Statement of the Use of Human Subjects ................................................................................. 46
Qualitative Method of Research ............................................................................................... 46
Research Approach ............................................................................................................... 46
Sampling Strategy ................................................................................................................. 47
Instrumentation ..................................................................................................................... 49
Data Collection Procedure .................................................................................................... 50
Transcription ......................................................................................................................... 51
Analysis ................................................................................................................................. 52
viii
Substantive Significance ....................................................................................................... 54
Quantitative Method of Research ............................................................................................. 55
Unit of analysis ..................................................................................................................... 56
Data Collection ..................................................................................................................... 56
Data Extraction Method ........................................................................................................ 58
Data Variability and Credibility ............................................................................................ 61
Data Analysis ........................................................................................................................ 61
Regression Analysis Plan ...................................................................................................... 63
Integration of Qualitative and Quantitative Data ...................................................................... 65
Chapter 4 - Findings...................................................................................................................... 66
Introduction ............................................................................................................................... 66
Introduction to Research Participants ....................................................................................... 66
Descriptive Statistics ................................................................................................................. 69
Influential Energy Consumption Factors for Sewing Operations ............................................. 71
RQ1: Energy Consumption Factors Identified as Most Influential by Industry Experts ...... 72
RQ2: Most Influential Energy Consumption Factors Identified by Statistical Analysis ...... 84
RQ3. Congruency between Qualitative and Quantitative Findings ...................................... 97
Interrelationships among Energy Consumption Factors ......................................................... 102
RQ4. Interrelationships Identified by Industry Experts ...................................................... 103
RQ5. Interrelationships Identified by Statistical Analysis .................................................. 104
RQ6. Congruency between Qualitative and Quantitative Findings .................................... 107
Steps to Reduce Energy Consumption .................................................................................... 110
RQ7. Potential Solutions Identified by Industry Experts .................................................... 110
Exploring Experts’ Level of Concern ..................................................................................... 116
RQ8. Experts’ Level of Concern about Energy Consumption............................................ 116
RQ9. Initiatives Implemented to Reduce Energy Consumption ......................................... 119
RQ10. Discussions with Other Professionals to Address Climate Change ........................ 120
RQ11. Modifying Assembling Processes with the Help of an Energy Consumption Model
............................................................................................................................................. 121
RQ12. Production Rate vs. Energy Consumption in the Decision Making Process ........... 123
ix
Chapter 5 - Integrated Discussion, Implications, Limitations, and Recommendations for Future
Research ............................................................................................................................... 126
Summary of Research Method ............................................................................................... 126
Integrated Discussion and Implications .................................................................................. 129
Limitations .............................................................................................................................. 137
Recommendations for Future Research .................................................................................. 138
Conclusion .............................................................................................................................. 140
References ................................................................................................................................... 142
Appendix A - Interview Design .................................................................................................. 155
Appendix B - Themes within the Qualitative Interview Responses ........................................... 158
Appendix C - Example of Quantitative Data Set ........................................................................ 160
x
Description:increasing population and fast changing fashions makes this industry dynamic on a global scale, attracting new apparel manufacturers intent on capturing a share of the growing market. New manufacturers mean more apparel production, resulting in more environmental damage. In 2013, among the
