Dublin Like a Local: By the People Who Call It Home

192 Pages·2021·9.415 MB·English

by  DK Eyewitness

EYEWITNESS
DUBLIN
Like a
Local
BY THE PEOPLE WHO CALL IT HOME
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EYEWITNESS
Contents
DUBLIN
6 Welcome to the City
8 Through the Year
10 Know-How
Like a 14 Neighbourhoods
16 On the Map
EAT SHOP
Local
32 Brunch Spots 88 Vintage Gems
36 Special Occasion 92 Indie Boutiques
40 Comfort Food 96 Gourmet Treats
44 Sunday Roasts 100 Irish Design
48 Global Grub 104 Book Nooks
BY THE PEOPLE WHO CALL IT HOME 52 Seafood Spots 108 Take a Tour: An afternoon
56 Take a Tour: An afternoon of crate digging
of Dublin’s finest food
ARTS &
DRINK CULTURE
60 Proper Pubs 112 City History
64 Cocktail Joints 116 Favourite Museums
68 Wine Bars 120 Art Galleries
72 Alfresco Tipples 124 Top Theatres
76 Coffee Shops 128 Classic Cinemas
80 Whiskey Dens 132 Culture Live
84 Take a Tour: An afternoon 136 Take a Tour: A morning
on the whiskey trail exploring Dublin’s street art
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meet
the
NIGHTLIFE
locals
140 Cool Clubs
144 Live Music
148 Comedy Nights NICOLA BRADY
Hailing from Sussex, Nicola has lived in
152 Karaoke Joints
Ireland for 14 years – four of which
156 Late-Night Bites
have been spent in dreamy Dublin. As
160 Take a Tour: An evening
a travel writer, she explores the length
of Irish craic
and breadth of Ireland, eating as much
OUTDOORS as is humanly possible along the way.
When she’s not scoping out top foodie
164 Green Spaces spots, she’s trawling charity shops and
168 Beautiful Beaches strolling Dublin’s Georgian streets.
172 Scenic City Strolls
176 Rural Walks ÉADAOIN FITZMAURICE
180 Dreamy Viewpoints Éadaoin’s love affair with Dublin
184 Sporty Adventures started eight years ago, when she
188 Take a Tour: An afternoon cycle moved up for college from Arklow, Co.
along the Grand Canal Wicklow. A social media coordinator
by day, Éadaoin spends any spare time
190 Directory she has sampling (and drooling over)
192 Acknowledgments the city’s tastiest grub, braving the Irish
sea with a swim and getting cosy in
traditional pubs with her mates.
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DUBLIN
Dublin
WELCOME TO THE CITY
meet There are two kinds of Dubliner – those redbrick markets, weaving between
who were born here, and those who shouted conversations in the street and
the
NIGHTLIFE choose to be here. The common spontaneous calls for a sneaky pint.
locals
140 Cool Clubs denominator? A fierce feeling of loyalty In a city so small, it can be hard to
144 Live Music and pride, as well as a wicked sense of spot the decent places amid the tourist
148 Comedy Nights NICOLA BRADY humour. This is a place where everyone traps. But that’s where this book comes
Hailing from Sussex, Nicola has lived in
152 Karaoke Joints you meet wants to stop and chat, whether in. We know the places that Dubliners
Ireland for 14 years – four of which
156 Late-Night Bites you’re popping to the shop or nipping love, from the brunch spots they’ll wait
have been spent in dreamy Dublin. As
160 Take a Tour: An evening out for a coffee. It’s also a place that’s all week for to the underground venues
a travel writer, she explores the length
of Irish craic had more than its fair share of hard times, for life-changing gigs. When it comes to
and breadth of Ireland, eating as much
but new ideas abound when times are the weekend, Dubliners aren’t visiting
OUTDOORS as is humanly possible along the way.
When she’s not scoping out top foodie tough – after all, the 2008 recession the Guinness Storehouse: they’re hopping
164 Green Spaces spots, she’s trawling charity shops and kick-started some of the most innovative between the best vintage boutiques
168 Beautiful Beaches strolling Dublin’s Georgian streets. cafés and bars that still thrive to this day. and indie galleries and plotting where
172 Scenic City Strolls If ever there were a city that could to get their fix of Korean fried chicken
176 Rural Walks ÉADAOIN FITZMAURICE charm your socks off, it’s Dublin. There’s or poitín cocktails.
180 Dreamy Viewpoints Éadaoin’s love affair with Dublin a palpable sense of charisma to the Whether you’re already a Dubliner
184 Sporty Adventures started eight years ago, when she place that ensnares anyone who visits – looking to unearth your city’s secrets, or
188 Take a Tour: An afternoon cycle moved up for college from Arklow, Co. a cheeky sense of “divilment” that you’re keen to discover a side that you
along the Grand Canal Wicklow. A social media coordinator
makes you feel like an adventure is won’t find in traditional guidebooks, this
by day, Éadaoin spends any spare time
always just around the corner. And the book will help you to embrace the city
190 Directory she has sampling (and drooling over)
city’s compact size makes it all the with the wild sense of mischief that’s
192 Acknowledgments the city’s tastiest grub, braving the Irish
sea with a swim and getting cosy in easier to explore, as you amble past woven into its very heart. Enjoy Dublin,
traditional pubs with her mates. Georgian townhouses and Gothic but do it the local way.
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WELCOME TO THE CITY
Liked by the locals
“Dublin may look like a city, but
it’s got the heart of a village. And
that’s what I love about it –
everything is right at your
fingertips, and you never know
what the day will bring.”
NICOLA BRADY, TRAVEL WRITER
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WELCOME TO THE CITY DUBLIN
From mass street parties in the summer to festive
markets in the winter, there’s a cause for celebration
with the dawn of each new season in Dublin.
Dublin
THROUGH THE YEAR
the longer evenings (known locally
as the “grand old stretch”), catching up
Liked by the locals
with friends on the grassy fields.
SPRING
“Dublin may look like a city, but
ST PATRICK’S DAY
it’s got the heart of a village. And After a brittle winter, it’s only right that the
mother of all parties kicks off spring. This
that’s what I love about it – SUMMER
national holiday brings high spirits (well,
everything is right at your it’s a day off work), and sees locals enjoy FESTIVAL FROLICS
fingertips, and you never know the parade, crowd the streets in green Nothing defines Dublin’s convivial
hats and mingle with a pint in the pub. nature like its summer festival season.
what the day will bring.”
Pride sees a riot of colour, Forbidden
COUNTRYSIDE WALKS Fruit puts on the biggest music party,
Surprisingly, spring is often warmer Vodafone Comedy Festival brings
NICOLA BRADY, TRAVEL WRITER
than summer, so locals embrace the the craic and The Big Grill provides
milder weather by migrating to the tasty BBQ treats.
coast or mountains for a walk.
SEA SWIMS
PARK PICNICS You’re not a proper Dub until you’ve
Seduced by the rises in temperature in leapt into the bracing waters of the Irish
April, youngsters flock to the city’s parks Sea come summer. Teenagers jump
with picnic baskets in tow. They enjoy in at the Forty Foot in Sandycove to
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THROUGH THE YEAR
celebrate the end of exams while hardy Dublin Theatre Festival and Fringe,
swimmers (some even in the nude) while the curious are drawn to Culture
brave Hawk Cliff in Dalkey. Night for free gigs and literary events.
OUTDOOR CINEMAS HALLOWEEN HAPPENINGS
Free open-air cinemas spring up across Dubliners go all out for Ireland’s most
the city as soon as balmy nights hit. ancient festival. They dress up for
Locals spread out on blankets and themed nights out, enjoy theatrical
enjoy classic films with a bite to eat parades and celebrate with spooky
(courtesy of tempting food trucks) in readings at the Bram Stoker Festival.
popular Merrion Square.
FLEA MARKETS GALORE
Antique lovers and fashionistas hit the
WINTER
flea markets that begin to pop up at
the start of June, from the Dublin Flea FESTIVE LIGHTS
on Thomas Street to the sustainable Light displays mark the start of the
fashion fairs in the Workman’s Club. Christmas season across the city.
Workers walk over illuminated bridges
on the way home while families admire
the projections covering iconic buildings.
AUTUMN
WEEKEND MARKETS
FIRESIDE PINTS Wrapped-up locals swarm to markets
When the nights draw in and the rain to pick up locally made pieces for gifts
pours, the pubs light their turf fires and – high-end at the RDS Irish Design Fair
locals cosy up by the hearth with a pint. and funky at the Christmas Flea.
CULTURAL TOURS NEW YEAR’S EVE
September sees Dubliners head Dubliners ring in the new year with a
indoors for a dose of culture. Theatre knees-up: at the countdown concert,
lovers head to both big venues and tiny with a singalong in their local boozer
pop-ups to see new plays courtesy of or with family and friends at home.
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THROUGH THE YEAR DUBLIN
celebrate the end of exams while hardy Dublin Theatre Festival and Fringe, There’s an art to being a Dubliner, from the dos and
swimmers (some even in the nude) while the curious are drawn to Culture don’ts in the pub to negotiating the city’s medieval
brave Hawk Cliff in Dalkey. Night for free gigs and literary events.
streets. Here’s a breakdown of all you need to know.
OUTDOOR CINEMAS HALLOWEEN HAPPENINGS
Free open-air cinemas spring up across Dubliners go all out for Ireland’s most Dublin
the city as soon as balmy nights hit. ancient festival. They dress up for
Locals spread out on blankets and themed nights out, enjoy theatrical
KNOW-HOW
enjoy classic films with a bite to eat parades and celebrate with spooky
(courtesy of tempting food trucks) in readings at the Bram Stoker Festival.
popular Merrion Square.
For a directory of health and safety drinks for your group, which each person
FLEA MARKETS GALORE resources, safe spaces and accessibility reciprocates – is an unspoken rule. If you
Antique lovers and fashionistas hit the information, turn to page 190. For need an extra seat to accommodate your
WINTER
flea markets that begin to pop up at everything else, read on. party and see a spare stool, don’t just take
the start of June, from the Dublin Flea FESTIVE LIGHTS it – ask the people on that table first.
on Thomas Street to the sustainable Light displays mark the start of the EAT Last call for bevs is 11:30pm Monday
fashion fairs in the Workman’s Club. Christmas season across the city. Dubliners rarely eat breakfast out, so it’s to Thursday, 12:30am on Friday and
Workers walk over illuminated bridges unusual for cafés to open before 9:30am. Saturday, and 11pm on Sundays,
on the way home while families admire As for brunch? They can’t get enough of always with a half-hour “drinking-up
the projections covering iconic buildings. it, and cafés start to buzz from around time”. Don’t expect happy hours (they’re
11am – if you arrive any later, prepare to illegal in Ireland); do expect some
AUTUMN
WEEKEND MARKETS wait for a table. Dinner, eaten around tourist pubs in Temple Bar to sneakily
FIRESIDE PINTS Wrapped-up locals swarm to markets 7:30 or 8pm, is the biggest meal of the raise prices after 11pm.
When the nights draw in and the rain to pick up locally made pieces for gifts day and reservations go quickly, so book
pours, the pubs light their turf fires and – high-end at the RDS Irish Design Fair ahead. Vegan? Mention this when you SHOP
locals cosy up by the hearth with a pint. and funky at the Christmas Flea. book (unless, of course, it’s a vegan spot). Shops – particularly boutiques – open
a little later, at around 10 or 11am. On
CULTURAL TOURS NEW YEAR’S EVE DRINK Sundays, smaller shops are either closed
September sees Dubliners head Dubliners ring in the new year with a Pub culture is big business. After-work or only open for the afternoon. Consider
indoors for a dose of culture. Theatre knees-up: at the countdown concert, beers are common, but Dubliners supporting the city’s time-honoured
lovers head to both big venues and tiny with a singalong in their local boozer tend to save the serious session for after independent businesses as much as
pop-ups to see new plays courtesy of or with family and friends at home. dinner. The culture of a “round”– buying possible (a friendly natter with shop
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