Dressmaking: The Complete Step-by-Step Guide to Making your Own Clothes

322 Pages·2012·56.36 MB·English

by  Alison Smith

DRESSMAKING
DRESSMAKING
The complete step-by-step guide to making your own clothes
ALISON SMITH
LONDON, NEW YORK, MELBOURNE, MUNICH, AND DELHI
DK UK
PROJECT EDITOR Laura Palosuo
Editor Hilary Mandleberg
SENIOR ART EDITORs Jane Ewart, Glenda Fisher
PROJECT ART EDITOR Hannah Moore
Contents
DESIGN ASSISTANT Charlotte Johnson
Senior ProductioN EDITOR Jennifer Murray
senior Production Controller Seyhan Esen
Creative Technical Support Sonia Charbonnier
New Photography Ruth Jenkinson
Art Direction for Photography Jane Ewart, Alison Shackleton
Senior jacket creative Nicola Powling
Managing Editor Penny Smith
Managing Art Editor Marianne Markham INTRODUCTION 6
Publisher Mary Ling
Art director Jane Bull
ABOUT THIS BOOK 8
DK INDIA
Senior Editor Alicia Ingty
Editor Arani Sinha
Assistant Editor Neha Ruth Samuel TOOLS & MATERIALS 10
Art Editors Mansi Nagdev, Ira Sharma, Zaurin Thoidingjam
Managing Editor Glenda Fernandes Basic sewing kit • Needles and pins • Threads
Managing Art Editor Navidita Thapa • Measuring and marking tools • Cutting tools
PRODUCTION Manager Pankaj Sharma
creative technical support Manager Sunil Sharma • Notions • Useful extras • Sewing machine
SENIOR DTP DESIGNER Tarun Sharma • Serger • Pressing aids
DTP Designers Nand Kishor Archarya, Manish Chandra Upreti
DK US FABRICS 34
US Editor Margaret Parrish
US SENIOR Editor Shannon Beatty Wool fabrics • Cotton fabrics • Silk fabrics
US Consultant Amy Vinchesi • Linen fabrics • Synthetic fabrics
First American Edition, 2012
Published in the United States by DK Publishing
375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 PATTERNS & CUTTING OUT 50
12 13 14 15 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Reading patterns • Body measuring
001—182909—September/2012
Copyright © 2012 Dorling Kindersley Limited • Altering patterns • Making a toile • Cutting out
All rights reserved.
Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored in, or introduced into a retrieval system, GENERAL TECHNIQUES 78
or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright Stitches for hand sewing • Machine stitches and seams
owner and the above publisher of this book.
• Reducing seam bulk • Darts • Gathers • Interfacings
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. • Facings • Collars • Waistbands • Sleeves • Pockets
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. • Hemlines • Zippers • Buttons • Hooks and eyes and snaps
ISBN: 978-0-7566-9820-1
DK books are available at special discounts when purchased in bulk for sales promotions,
premiums, fund-raising, or educational use. For details, contact: DK Publishing Special
Markets, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 or
GARMENTS 128 The Jackets 236
Classic boxy jacket 238
The Skirts 130
Boxy jacket with collar 242
Classic A-line skirt 132
Classic shawl collar jacket 246
Button front A-line skirt 136
Lined shawl collar jacket 251
Classic tailored skirt 138
Tailored evening skirt 143
MENDING & REPAIRS 254
Classic pleated skirt 146
Unpicking stitches • Darning a hole
Topstitched pleated skirt 152
Repairing fabric under a button
The Dresses 154 Repairing a damaged buttonhole
Classic shift dress 156 Mending a split in a seam
Short-sleeved shift dress 161 Mending a tear with a fusible patch
Square-neck shift dress 164
Repairing or replacing elastic
Sleeveless shift dress 167
Repairing a broken zipper
Short sleeveless shift dress 170
Classic waisted dress 174
CUSTOMIZING 262
Short-sleeved waisted dress 179
Lengthening a skirt with a contrast band
Sleeveless waisted dress 181
Turning jeans into a skirt • Adding a collar and
Waisted cocktail dress 185
pockets to a dress • Embellishing a dress with
Classic empire waist dress 190
sequins and beads • Embellishing a T-shirt with
Sleeveless empire waist dress 195
flowers • Adding a ribbon trim to a cardigan
Long empire waist dress 198
The Pants 202
PATTERNS 276
Classic tailored pants 204
Tapered capri pants 208
Classic palazzo pants 210
GLOSSARY 312
Wide-leg shorts 216
INDEX 316
The Tops 218
Classic shell top 220
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 320
Tie-neck top 224
Long-sleeved tunic 226
Classic princess-line blouse 228
Short-sleeved blouse 233
Introduction
My passion is sewing. I’m never happier than when I’m in front of my sewing
machine creating a new garment and I wanted to share that enjoyment
with everyone who loves clothes and would like to sew their own. This
book offers you twelve basic patterns ranging from skirts and dresses
through pants and tops to jackets. There are full instructions for
scaling the patterns up, or you can access the patterns via a
dedicated website. The bonus is that the basic patterns can be
adapted to make a total of thirty-one fabulous garments. If you
make them all, you will have a complete wardrobe whatever
your age and lifestyle.
Beginners can start with the basic patterns and quickly
progress to the more complex ones. For the more experienced
sewer, there are plenty of new ideas and techniques to try, or
you may feel like making the same pattern several times in different
fabrics for a variety of looks. I’ve also included detailed instructions for
the techniques needed to make every garment in the book. This section
will also help you to work with any commercial pattern. And, finally, there are
sections dedicated to mending and customizing, enabling you to prolong the
useful life of your clothes.
Happy sewing!
8 How to use this book
how to use this book
This book contains all the information you need to make your own clothes. There are patterns and step-by-
step instructions for twelve classic garments, and variations of each. Additional guidance, if needed, is to be
found in sections on key dressmaking techniques, tools, fabrics, and pattern alterations. Finally, sections on
mending and customizing show how to prolong the life of your garments, both old and new.
CLASSIC GARMENTS
132 Garments Skirts 133 134 Garments Skirts 135
HOW TO MAKE THE CLASSIC A-LINE SKIRT matched notches
Skirt Pattern One
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(see Lwpaa.8yis9et)rb. Ptahrneeds ss eitdoaewm oa afr dltlh otehw esae wnacmaeis tboby ah ntardilmf. itms iwngid the 9tFhoeldn sthtietc wha tihsetb eanndds RoSf (trhigeh wt saiidsetb) taon RdS. . Pin,
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the A-line skirts ColTbfaian hurcbedtiors niwzu cs ywsokr .c roiFlkroloyt srk rdiwe swue emrpiolnl aytyine.do Fr eua oy irwcon osui udoa cme lc oa ormunLatlnditdeong r f,cn re he nposohrfoi .ns te, •BYPOR E131TF5sm31sPptEUheoh1a9 FpPbsae wtiliWA.pnlnOst2ur opeki o R7 ntns(wI(ira1tRLok81nIgnoNt. iL–lm83gtr nEtOthe mc2tGcmNh )orme7 in nsrYa)wTE n9e e it x)mHnE)itca aO n sr(5DsthdiEaska ost9yei sUritd nPfrioubtceonteAiguco na r zp(ST t urpng1api pTosyd5Tl ala.ipEn 0- zn to2AlipeRsteclngr-8e umr Npt( Rd0rseSrnue)p–okr T rfef2owiapar 8stbcon e1irlsn i)ocega d DartTbwG haaAeicissk fitAR.b nT-aMlhiFisnRehOderEee NdsiN siTk s sif rTakatsi r zitCtsei p ssnOhpheoeadNrup wileSnddi tTtds hhbitRe ey aBj u UztlbuehsiuftCept ta- ptohTboweanonIronOv a dedn N astdihrd tebse u.ki nTtnt heotheen eB.nh AfaorCrolreKon fwtaNw as atnedrins ritnobgwa. nd 4PSrteitscsh t hthe es eLaHm ( loepfte nh,a tnhde)n s iindsee sret am zi,p lepaevri n(sge ea pg.a1p1 9fo).r the zipper. 56SAttittacchh t hthee R wHa (irsitgbhatn hda inndte) rsfidacei nsega tmo tahned w pariesstsb athned s(eseaem p o.9p4e)n. (see p.84). 120hNCeleimpat teahned t e hhnead nhsde o msft tiethcdehg w ein ab ipysl tsabecaregn.idn gto ( sreeed upc.1e1 b6u). lTku. rn up a 11⁄2in (4cm) 113TuMSuneardwnke erat ht abhe bue w utrtaatowtinos otn eobvdhenagro nltealhdep, et oth oune n tnthdh peei rn RloaS vap, en p(rdsulae shpeha iponfpgd t. 1 hts2het3ie tw– cc1ahli2iup si4ntnpb)d. epaednrlla adepc n(esd.ese o pu.t1. 2F5o)l.d
CLASSIC GARMENT OPENERS CLASSIC GARMENT STEP-BY-STEP PAGES
Each classic garment is profiled in an introduction Every step of making each garment is demonstrated with
spread that tells you what you need to begin your close-up photography and explained with clear text.
project, including materials, fabric ideas, and Where further guidance may be needed, you are directed
information on where to find the patterns. to the appropriate page in the general techniques section.
280
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PATTERN GUIDE PATTERNS GENERAL TECHNIQUES
A guide to using the patterns shows you how to A pattern for each of the garment projects is All key dressmaking techniques are shown and
enlarge, photocopy, or download and print the printed in the back of the book, and graded for explained, step-by-step, in a self-contained
patterns. A handy size chart helps you find the sizes 6–22. Color-coding helps you find the correct section. Turn to this section for extra guidance
correct size for you. size when using the pattern. when completing a project, or use it as a general
reference for dressmaking questions.
DRESS PATTERN >> p.18786195
>> p.136
OVERLAP
>> p.134
SKIRT PATTERN JOIN
JOIN
A