Table Of ContentEYEWITNESS
TOP 10
PROVENCE
AND THE CÔTE D’AZUR
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EYEWITNESS
TOP 10
PROVENCE
AND THE CÔTE D’AZUR
Top 10 Provence The Top 10
and the Côte d’Azur of Everything
Highlights
Welcome to Provence Moments in History .....................36
and the Côte d’Azur ....................5 Roman Sights ...............................38
Exploring Provence and Places of Worship ........................40
the Côte d’Azur ...........................6
Art Galleries .................................42
Provence and the Côte
Painters in Provence ....................44
d’Azur Highlights ......................10
Provençal Legends ......................46
Palais des Papes ..........................12
Provence Villages .........................48
Gorges du Verdon ........................14
Areas of Natural Beauty ..............50
Roman Arles ................................16
Beaches of Provence ...................52
Aix-en-Provence ..........................18
Gardens in Provence ....................54
Vieux Nice .....................................20
Sporting Activities ........................56
St-Tropez ......................................24
Children’s Activities ......................58
The Camargue .............................26
Places to See and Be Seen .........60
Vaison-la-Romaine ......................28
Gourmet Restaurants ..................62
Abbaye Notre-Dame
de Sénanque .............................30 Vineyards and Distilleries ............64
St-Paul-de-Vence ........................32 Provence for Free .........................66
Festivals and Events ....................68
Offshore Islands ...........................70
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CONTENTS
Provence and the Streetsmart
Côte d’Azur Area
by Area
Marseille .......................................74 Getting Around ...........................134
Bouches-du-Rhône .....................80 Practical Information .................138
The Var and Provençal Coast ......86 Places to Stay .............................142
Nice ...............................................94
Monaco and the Riviera .............102 General Index .............................148
Alpes-Maritimes ........................112 Acknowledgments .....................157
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence ........118 Phrase Book ...............................159
Vaucluse .....................................124
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy The rapid rate at which the world is changing
of quality or popularity is implied. All ten are, in is constantly keeping the DK Eyewitness
the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. team on our toes. While we’ve worked hard
to ensure that this edition of Provence and
Title page, front cover and spine Blooming the Côte d’Azur is accurate and up-to-date,
lavender flowers at Abbaye Notre-Dame de we know that opening hours alter, standards
Sénanque, Provence shift, prices fluctuate, places close and new
Back cover, clockwise from top left ones pop up in their stead. So, if you notice
Bouillabaisse; Arles Old Town; Gorges du Verdon we’ve got something wrong or left something
canyon; Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque in out, we want to hear about it. Please get in
lavender field; Street lined with restaurants in touch at [email protected]
Place Rossetti, Nice
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CONTENTS
Provence and the Streetsmart
Côte d’Azur Area
by Area
Marseille .......................................74 Getting Around ...........................134
Bouches-du-Rhône .....................80 Practical Information .................138
The Var and Provençal Coast ......86 Places to Stay .............................142
Nice ...............................................94
Monaco and the Riviera .............102 General Index .............................148
Alpes-Maritimes ........................112 Acknowledgments .....................157
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence ........118 Phrase Book ...............................159
Vaucluse .....................................124
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy The rapid rate at which the world is changing
of quality or popularity is implied. All ten are, in is constantly keeping the DK Eyewitness
the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. team on our toes. While we’ve worked hard
to ensure that this edition of Provence and
Title page, front cover and spine Blooming the Côte d’Azur is accurate and up-to-date,
lavender flowers at Abbaye Notre-Dame de we know that opening hours alter, standards
Sénanque, Provence shift, prices fluctuate, places close and new
Back cover, clockwise from top left ones pop up in their stead. So, if you notice
Bouillabaisse; Arles Old Town; Gorges du Verdon we’ve got something wrong or left something
canyon; Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque in out, we want to hear about it. Please get in
lavender field; Street lined with restaurants in touch at [email protected]
Place Rossetti, Nice
000022--000033__TToopp__1100__PPrroovveennccee..iinndddd 33 000044--0033000055//11__11TT//oo22pp11__ 11 110011__::PP33rr88oo vvAAeeMMnnccee..iinndddd 44 3300//1111//2211 77::2211 PPMM
Top 10 Provence and the Côte d’Azur ❮❮ 5
Welcome to
Provence and
the Côte d’Azur
Provence is the most dazzling corner of France. The region’s
perfect light drew artists such as Renoir and Matisse, while
its Riviera glamour has enchanted movie stars and tourists
alike. It is a place of history and mystery, fantastic food and
unbridled fun. With DK Eyewitness Top 10 Provence and the
Côte d’Azur, it’s yours to explore.
Thousands of years of migration have left a lasting cultural legacy
in Provence, and historic sites such as the Roman amphitheatre in
Nîmes, the medieval Abbaye de Sénanque and the papal vineyards
of Châteauneuf-du-Pape still operate today. The 20th century
shone an even stronger spotlight on the region’s timeless villages
and towns. Picasso painted Antibes, Van Gogh lost an ear in
Arles, and Cézanne captured the Provençal countryside around
Aix-en-Provence on canvas.
The Côte d’Azur is the south of France at its most cosmop olitan
and lively, from the multinational restaurants of Marseille to
the glamorous beach clubs of St-Tropez. If you grow tired of the
high life, it is easy to escape to the perched villages of the Alpes-
Maritimes and the Var, to the wild Camargue wetlands or to the
Îles de Lérins off Cannes. The region is filled with places where you
can savour your own off-the-beaten-track paradise.
Whether you’re visiting for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide
brings together the best of everything the region has to offer, from
the museums of Marseille to the nightlife in Nice. The guide gives
you tips throughout, from seeking out what’s free to avoiding the
crowds, as well as ten easy-to-follow itineraries designed to cover a
clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography
and detailed maps, and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel
companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Provence and the Côte d’Azur.
Clockwise from top: The fishing port of Cassis; carved stonework at Église St-Trophime, Arles;
flamingoes in the Carmargue; the Calanque d’En-Vau, Cassis; interior of Notre-Dame de la
Garde, Marseille; Les Arénes, Arles; cypress trees at Château de Berne
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Top 10 Provence and the Côte d’Azur ❮❮ 5 6 ❯❯ Top 10 Provence and the Côte d’Azur
Welcome to Exploring Provence
Provence and and the Côte d’Azur
Provence’s most important sights are scattered widely
the Côte d’Azur
across the region, but a world-class public transport
system, with the Nice-Cannes-Aix-Marseille-Avignon
TGV train along its spine, connects every hilltop village
and coastal town. Here are some ideas to
Provence is the most dazzling corner of France. The region’s help you make the most of your time.
perfect light drew artists such as Renoir and Matisse, while
Two Days in Provence
its Riviera glamour has enchanted movie stars and tourists
VaiVsoanis-on-
alike. It is a place of history and mystery, fantastic food and la-Rlao-mRoaminaeine
Day 1
unbridled fun. With DK Eyewitness Top 10 Provence and the
MORNING
Côte d’Azur, it’s yours to explore. Start your day in Nice (see pp94–9)
with a stroll down cours Saleya GAGRADRD AbbAabybeaye
(see p20). Marvel at the VAVUACULCULSUESE NotNreo-tDrea-mDaeme
Thousands of years of migration have left a lasting cultural legacy Marche aux Fleurs (flower AviAgvniognn,on, de Sdéen Saénnqauneque ALAPLEPSE-DSE-D-HEA-HUATUET-E-
in Provence, and historic sites such as the Roman amphitheatre in market), the city’s most PalPaaisl adies Pdae pPeaspes PRPORVOEVNECNECE CSuobrCSnluoiimcbrhnleieimchee ALAPLEPSE-S- PrinPcrein'sc Pe'as lPaacela,ce,
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the promenade du ArleAsrles SteS-Cter-oCixroix GoGrgoersg deus du NicNeice
shone an even stronger spotlight on the region’s timeless villages Paillon (see pp94–5). BOBUOCUHCEHSE-DSU-D-RUH-ROHNOENE VerVdeorndon
aAnrlde sto, wannds .C Péizcaanssnoe pcaaipnttuerde dA nthtieb ePsr,o Vvaenn çGaol gcho ulonstrt yasnid eea ar rionu nd AsAaFftlTaeEdr Rea N NlOuiçOnoNcishe o of n the CamCaamrgauregue TGVT GV PrAoPvixreA-onevixcnee--necne- VAVRAR TGVT GV FERRFYERRY
Aix-en-Provence on canvas. seafront promenade des TGVT GV
Anglais, relive the French
The Côte d’Azur is the south of France at its most cosmop olitan Riviera’s glamorous past in 0 km0 km 2020 St-TSrto-Tpreozpez
the Villa Masséna (see p96).
and lively, from the multinational restaurants of Marseille to 0 m0il emsiles 2020
the glamorous beach clubs of St-Tropez. If you grow tired of the Day 2 AFTERNOON
high life, it is easy to escape to the perched villages of the Alpes- MORNING Hire a car and drive through lavender
Take an early TGV train to explore fields to the Roman town of Vaison-la-
Maritimes and the Var, to the wild Camargue wetlands or to the
Avignon’s historic Palais de Papes Romaine (see pp28–9). Complete the
Îles de Lérins off Cannes. The region is filled with places where you (see pp12–13), which overlooks the day with a walk around the bucolic
can savour your own off-the-beaten-track paradise. River Rhône. Have lunch at the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque
venerable Hiély Lucullus (see p131). (see pp30–31).
Whether you’re visiting for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide
brings together the best of everything the region has to offer, from Seven Days in Provence
the museums of Marseille to the nightlife in Nice. The guide gives
Day 1
you tips throughout, from seeking out what’s free to avoiding the
As Day 1 of Two Days in Provence.
crowds, as well as ten easy-to-follow itineraries designed to cover a
clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography Day 2
Nothing says Nice (see pp94–9) like
and detailed maps, and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel
Henri Matisse. Take coffee below his
companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Provence and the Côte d’Azur. former apartm ent (at what is now
Bar L’F, pl Charles Félix), and head up
Cimiez hill to marvel at the countless
Clockwise from top: The fishing port of Cassis; carved stonework at Église St-Trophime, Arles; Nice’s promenade du Paillon offers a works he bequeathed to the city, now
flamingoes in the Carmargue; the Calanque d’En-Vau, Cassis; interior of Notre-Dame de la leafy stroll in the heart of the busy city. in the Musée Matisse (see p42).
Garde, Marseille; Les Arénes, Arles; cypress trees at Château de Berne
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Exploring Provence and the Côte d’Azur ❮❮ 7
Day 4
Head northwest to Aix-en-Provence
(see 18–19) and follow in the footsteps
of Paul Cézanne to the artist’s
favourite restaurant, the Brasserie
Les Deux Garçons on cours Mirabeau.
Guided tours are available, via the
tourist office, of all the key sights,
including the Atelier de Cézanne (his
studio, just as he left it) and his family
home, the Bastide du Jas de Bouffan.
Day 5
Start out early. It’s a long – if visually
Vlaa-iRVlsaooa-mniRs-ooamnin-aeine St-Tropez harbour is lined with stunning – drive northeast to visit
fishing boats and super-yachts. the Gorges du Verdon (see pp14–15).
Key Stop en route for a bite to eat, and
Two-day itinerary then tour the Corniche Sublime
GAGRADRD AbbAabybeaye Seven-day itinerary by car. This hair-raising road loops
VAVUACULCULSUESE NotNreo-tDrea-mDaeme past the
AviAgvniognn,on, de Sdéen Saénnqauneque ALAPLEPSE-DSE-D-HEA-HUATUET-E- Balcons
PalPaaisl adies Pdae pPeaspes PRPORVOEVNECNECE CSuobrCSnluoiimcbrhnleieimchee ALAPLEPSE-S- PrinPcrein'sc Pe'as lPaacela,ce, de la Mescla
St RSetm Reym-dye--de- TGVT GV MAMRAITRIIMTIEMSES MoMnaocnoaco viewpoint,
BUSBUSLesL BeasP uBroxaP-vudreoxen-v-cdPeeenro-cPvereonvceence LacL daec de MuMséues Méea Mtisasteisse TERTER some 700 m
ArleAsrles SteS-Cter-oCixroix GoGrgoersg deus du NicNeice (2,300 ft) above
BOBUOCUHCEHSE-DSU-D-RUH-ROHNOENE VerVdeorndon the canyon floor.
CamCaamrgauregue TGVT GV PrAoPvixreA-onevixcnee--necne- VAVRAR TGVT GV FERRFYERRY boaet ntroMiupag okhue tt is mounrete of o yLora uac s hdaierve e d
TGVT GV
Ste-Croix (see p91) before you
return to Aix for the night.
0 km0 km 2020 St-TSrto-Tpreozpez Day 6
0 m0il emsiles 2020 Take an early train through the
vine yards from Aix to Arles (see
Vieux Nice Musée Matisse 2 km (1.2 miles) pp16–17). Play gladiator in the Roman
promenade Sacloeuyars amphit heatre then picnic amid the
Musée du Paillon ruins. Arles is also the gateway to the
Masséna breathtaking Camargue (see pp26–7).
Promenade des MarchFéle auurxs BL'aFr Cseyec lfle,a kmaiynagko oers taankde oat hbeora tb tiordulrif eto,
Anglais 0 metres 500
white horses and black bulls.
0 miles 500
Day 7
After lunch, ride the coastal train Take a bus to St-Rémy-de-Provence
15 minutes east to bask in the (see p83) with its street markets and
grandeur of the Prince’s Palace pavement cafés, which were so loved
in Monaco (see p103). by local resident Vincent van Gogh.
Copies of his paintings are displayed
Day 3 where they were painted, along a
Take a boat west along the coast for picturesque artist’s trail. A short bus
a lazy day on the sands of St-Tropez’s ride further, Les Baux-de-Provence
La Fontanette beach. Later, try your (see p82) has a dramatic ruined
hand at pétanque on places des castle, two Michelin-starred
Lices, then celebrity-spot around restaurants and panoramic views
the Vieux Port (see pp24–5). over the Provence countryside.
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Exploring Provence and the Côte d’Azur ❮❮ 7
Day 4
Head northwest to Aix-en-Provence Top 10 Provence
(see 18–19) and follow in the footsteps
of Paul Cézanne to the artist’s
favourite restaurant, the Brasserie and the Côte d’Azur
Les Deux Garçons on cours Mirabeau.
Guided tours are available, via the
tourist office, of all the key sights, Highlights
including the Atelier de Cézanne (his
studio, just as he left it) and his family
home, the Bastide du Jas de Bouffan.
Day 5
Start out early. It’s a long – if visually
Vlaa-iRVlsaooa-mniRs-ooamnin-aeine St-Tropez harbour is lined with stunning – drive northeast to visit
fishing boats and super-yachts. the Gorges du Verdon (see pp14–15).
Key Stop en route for a bite to eat, and
Two-day itinerary then tour the Corniche Sublime Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, surrounded by lavender fields
GAGRADRD AbbAabybeaye Seven-day itinerary by car. This hair-raising road loops
VAVUACULCULSUESE NotNreo-tDrea-mDaeme past the
AviAgvniognn,on, de Sdéen Saénnqauneque ALAPLEPSE-DSE-D-HEA-HUATUET-E- Balcons
PalPaaisl adies Pdae pPeaspes PRPORVOEVNECNECE CSuobrCSnluoiimcbrhnleieimchee ALAPLEPSE-S- PrinPcrein'sc Pe'as lPaacela,ce, de la Mescla
St RSetm Reym-dye--de- TGVT GV MAMRAITRIIMTIEMSES MoMnaocnoaco viewpoint,
BUSBUSLesL BeasP uBroxaP-vudreoxen-v-cdPeeenro-cPvereonvceence LacL daec de MuMséues Méea Mtisasteisse TERTER some 700 m
ArleAsrles SteS-Cter-oCixroix GoGrgoersg deus du NicNeice (2,300 ft) above
BOBUOCUHCEHSE-DSU-D-RUH-ROHNOENE VerVdeorndon the canyon floor.
CamCaamrgauregue TGVT GV PrAoPvixreA-onevixcnee--necne- VAVRAR TGVT GV FERRFYERRY boaet ntroMiupag okhue tt is mounrete of o yLora uac s hdaierve e d
TGVT GV
Ste-Croix (see p91) before you
return to Aix for the night.
0 km0 km 2020 St-TSrto-Tpreozpez Day 6
0 m0il emsiles 2020 Take an early train through the
vine yards from Aix to Arles (see
Vieux Nice Musée Matisse 2 km (1.2 miles) pp16–17). Play gladiator in the Roman
promenade Sacloeuyars amphit heatre then picnic amid the
Musée du Paillon ruins. Arles is also the gateway to the
Masséna breathtaking Camargue (see pp26–7).
Promenade des MarchFéle auurxs BL'aFr Cseyec lfle,a kmaiynagko oers taankde oat hbeora tb tiordulrif eto,
Anglais 0 metres 500
white horses and black bulls.
0 miles 500
Day 7
After lunch, ride the coastal train Take a bus to St-Rémy-de-Provence
15 minutes east to bask in the (see p83) with its street markets and
grandeur of the Prince’s Palace pavement cafés, which were so loved
in Monaco (see p103). by local resident Vincent van Gogh.
Copies of his paintings are displayed
Day 3 where they were painted, along a
Take a boat west along the coast for picturesque artist’s trail. A short bus
a lazy day on the sands of St-Tropez’s ride further, Les Baux-de-Provence
La Fontanette beach. Later, try your (see p82) has a dramatic ruined
hand at pétanque on places des castle, two Michelin-starred
Lices, then celebrity-spot around restaurants and panoramic views
the Vieux Port (see pp24–5). over the Provence countryside.
000066--000077__TToopp__1100__PPrroovveennccee..iinndddd 77 000088--0033000099//11__11TT//oo22pp11__ 11 110011__::PP33rr88oo vvAAeeMMnnccee..iinndddd 88 3300//1111//2211 1111::3388 AAMM
