Table Of ContentREPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE 0 o1o7o-0
1. AGENCY USE ONLY 4Ledve biank) 2. REPORT DATE 3. PEPORT TYPE AND DATES COVERED
I
04. February 1994 I Final Techniýal. Jun 93- Feb 94
TITLE AND SUBTITLE I S. FUNDING NUMBERS
DESIGN FOR MANUFACTURING AND ASSEMBLY IN APPAREL: C-DLA900-87-D-0016-000Q
C) PART I__ 9*A '.
6. AUTHOR(S)
J
_Gioello, Debbie
7. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) 8. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION
0 j The Educatiom.al Foundation for the Fashion Industries REPORT NUMBER
227 West 27th Street
__
New York, NY 10001 0009
9. SPONSORING, MONITORING AGENCY NAME(S, AND ADDRESS(S C. SPONSORING'MONI'ORING
Defense Logistics Agency AGENCY REPORT NUMBER
DCLaAm eMroann uSftaacttiuornin g (DELnAg-PinRMee) ring --
BRanch
f TE
Alexandria, VA 22304-6100 .ELEC,
11. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTESE .
NONE
.B
12a. DISTRIBUTION/AVAILABIL;TY STATEMENT 12b. DISTRIBUTION CODE
I
UNRESTRICTED I
Appowed Im eef Iul
I hrbtbuno Un~mhod
13. ABSTRACT (Max.'MuM200words)
OBJECTIVE: (U) Achieve commercial publication of a handbook (manual) that will, in
a step-by-step procedure, guide garment designers in the development of new apparel
styles that will be as efficient and economical to manufacture and assemble as the
designer's overall concept will allow.
APPROACH: (U) Make a limited press run of the handbook, distribute copies to
educators, etc. for review and comments. Submit also to apparel textbook
publishers for inclusion in their lines.
PROGRESS: (U) All activities have been completed. General response to distributed
copies has been favorable but publishers have declined to accept the handbook
without extensive revision in order to reach widest possible market.
The objectives of this project have not been achieved. The project has been
terminated.
14 SUBJECT TERMS 15. NUMBER OF PAGES
(U)Assembly; (U)Clothing; (U)Computer Programs; (U)Correlation;
(U)Efficiency; (U)Feasibility Studies; (U)Handbooks; (U)Manufac- 16. PRICE CODE
turing; (U)Photographs; (U)Production; (U)Skirts; (U)Work.
17. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION 18. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION 19. SECURITY C'.ASSIFICATION 20. LIMITATION OF ABSTRACT
OF REPORT OF THIS PAGE IUncOlF aAsBSsTiRAfCiTed
Unclassified Unclassified UL
NSN 7540-01-280-50U1 Standard Form 298 (Rev 2-89)
298-102
DESIGN FOR MANUFACTURING
AND
ASSEMBLY IN APPAREL
94-11022
Debbie Ann Gioello
Project Leader
Associate Professor Fashion Design Department
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing Technology Demonstration
Educational Foundation For The Fashion Industries
Fashion Institute of Technology
DLA 900-87-D-0016-009
DTWrC. QU..,
'94 4 11 149
DISCLAIME NOTiClE
p *
THIS DOCUMENT IS BEST
QUALITY AVAILABLE. THE COPY
FURNISHED TO DTIC CONTAINED
NUMBER OF
A SIGNIFICANT
PAGES WHICH DO NOT
REPRODUCE LEGIBLY.
DESIGN FOR MANUFACTURING
AND
ASSEMBLY IN APPAREL
Debbie Ann Gioello
Project Leader
Associate Professor. Fashion Design Department
Advanced Apparel Manufacturing Technology Demonstration
Educational Foundation For The Fashion Industries
Fashion Institute of Technology
DLA 900-87-D-0016-009
FIT
MCIAý
CopyrightO 1991
This project has been sponsored by
Defense Logistics Agency
Cameron Station
Alexandria. VA 22304-6100
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in
any form without permission in writing from the publisher, except
by a reviewer who wishes to quote passages in connection with
a review written for publication in a magazine or newspaper.
Ubrary of Congress Catalog Card Number: applied 1991
DESIGN FOR MANUFACTURING AND ASSEMBLY IN APPAREL
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER
Preface iU
Introduction v
1 Sample Room - Sample Development Process I
2 Traditional Plant - Manufacturing Process 15
3 Automated Plant - Advanced Manufacturing Process 49
4 Custom Clothier 93
5 Made-to-Measure 135
6 Design for Manufacturing and Assembly 141
7 Flexible Manufacturing 153
165
8 Summary
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JU(cid:127)st If 11. .t. 10
By-
Di(cid:127)tribution/
Avai]ability qodes
11VU0. and/or
DENF R MSpo1Ia A
DESIGN FOR MANUFACTURING AND ASSEMBLY IN APPAREL
DESIGN FOR MANUFACTURING AND ASSEMBLY IN APPAREL
Preface iii
PREFACE
DESIGN FOR MANUFACTURING AND ASSEM- The step-by-step pictorially documented proce-
BLY (DFMA) is defined as a methodology used dures of assembling a garment in different
by apparel designers which explicitly considers environments required the assistance of many
how the product will be made. people. Thewr continued cooperation, generosity
and assistance in compiling the data and photo-
The purpose of the project is to show how to graphs for the development of the handbook
design a garment for ease and efficiency in made the task possible.
manufacturing, and to apply the principles of
design separately and independently to each of The project leader wishes to acknowledge the
the processes. following people, companies and universities for
their professional endeavors, use of equipment
The project team designed a tailored skirt and facilities, information. and supporting materi-
incorporating styling that would also be suitable als and data:
for military use. Recognizing the fact that Alfred Arena, F.I.T., Project Investigator:
manufacturing techniques and environments vary. Glenda Pike, F.I.T., Project Investigator:
the tailored skirt was designed to take advan- Brett Stem. Symagery Inc., Project Photographer.
tage of different manufacturing processes. In Nancy Solis, Student Assistant. Project Artist;
order to adapt to the easiest and most efficient Cassandra Williams, F.I.T.. Computer Consultant:
assembly procedures, internal details of the Fredrick Golden, F.I.T.. Management Consultant:
garment were changed. However, despite these Aaron Schorr. F.I.T., Manufacturing Consultant:
processes of change and modifications, the Josef Komgruen, F.I.T., AAMTD. Manager:.
integrity of the design and the size range of the Tony Ferraro, F.I.T., AAMTD, Technician:
garment for each study remained constant. Henry Smith, F.I.T., AAMTD. Technician;
Marjorie Miller, F.I.T., Proof Reader:
In preparing the DESIGN FOR MANUFACTUR- Lee Sofia, Hudson Valley Corp.. Print Media:
ING AND ASSEMBLY handbook, all operations George Simonton, George Simonton Inc., Designer-.
performed and necessary in the development of Rosario Panepinto, Bivona Coat & Suit Corp.,
the design, pattern generation and assembling of Production Facility;
the skirt were photographed and documented. Benno Lindenberg, Custom Vetement Assoc.,
The assembling procedures were studied and New York, NY.:
data collected in the Sample Room, Traditional Edmond Chouinard, Measurements Research
Factory, Automated Plant, Custom Clothier Inc., Providence. RI.:
Establishment. and Made-to-Measure environ- S. Paige Gatlin, Textile/Clothing Technology Corp.
ment. Modular Manufacturing Facilities as well [TC]2. Raleigh. NC.;
as Advanced Technology Environments were James Delapola. Defense Personnel Support
visited, and data on these are included in the Center. Philadephia, PA.;
Flexible Manufacturing chapter. University of Southwest Louisiana, CIM Labora-
tory. Lafayette. LA.:
The project team documented the step-by-step Clemson University, Modular Manufacturing
procedures in the development and assembly of Facility, Clemson, SC.
the skirt in all the environments, and produced
this handbook to illustrate the various processes Special thanks to the following members of the
necessary to design a garment for ease and AAMTD facilities: Henry A. Seesselberg, Direc-
efficiency in manufacturing. The DESIGN FOR tor of Advanced Manufacturing Technology
MANUFACTURING AND ASSEMBLY handbook Program; Noah Brenner, Research Coordinator:
is intended to guide the designer to design for Nge Tung Wong, Administrative Assistant; India
facilitation of manufacturing and to maximize the Rufus. Clerical Assistant.
production efficiency inherent in each one of the Debbie Gioello
production processes. Project Leader
1991
DESIGN FOR MANUFACTURING AND ASSEMBLY IN APPAREL
iv
DESIGN. FO IRMNlUFM~TUUHGll AND ASSEIMBLE IN APPAREL
Introduction v
INTRODUCTION
Factors related to garment development are design, material, cost, and menufacturn pro-
cess. AN of these factors need to be taken into account at the time of genarent conceptual-
ization. The garment should be analyzed as to how well the design lends itself to ease of
assembly in the manufacturing process. During the evaluation process, the product develop-
ment team should explore ways of improving the design to facilitate assembly procedures and,
to reduce manufacturing costs.
The designer, besides being a creative person who develops new ideas, needs to have a full
understanding of the range of equipment and automation in manufacturing. Designers should
address the ease of manufacturing and efficiency of production when developing a garment as
the design generates into pattern pieces for making the garment. In order for the garment
to be produced efficiently or for the garment section to be aligned properly, the seem contour
of the pattern section as well as its shape, length and width need to be considered. This
facilitates the efficient use of automated systems.
In addition to styling and production requirements, the designer should also address the per-
formance expectation of the fabric for the style, since machine, equipment and automated
functions respond differently to different fabrics.
Knowledge about product end use, production procedures, pricing, and equipment availability
prepare the designer to suggest ways to alter or approve a design to take advantage of
efficient manufacturing processes. This knowledge would alert the designer with the design
constraints before the design task is undertaken. Understanding the constraints and param-
eters of design and production implementation would reduce the time required for the design-
ing and pattern development process. This time reduction will reduce the trial and error
process and costs of sample development. Also, by facilitating the use of advanced technol-
ogy, the designer helps to assure the competitive position of the company.
If the parameters of the garment designed are such that the garment does not lend itself to
the specific manufacturing process intended, then changes are to be made to the design and/
or pattern. The changes are to be understood and accepted by the designer as part of the
inter-relationships required to achieve ease of assembly and manufacturing.
A prior knowledge of various types of manufactturing processes and of available computerized
and automated resources in a plant will enable the designer to create a garment that is
efficient to manufacture due to:
"A The designer's awareness of the problems inherent in the commercialization of
designs
"A The designer's awareness of how to accommodate design to the requirements
for production efficiency without sacrificing aesthetics
"A The designer's ability to identify the most appropriate manufacturing technolo-
gies for producing a particular garment
In the analysis of the assembly process itself, the goal is to design and incorporate assembly
procedures that help assure a better quality garment, reduce the cost of manufacturing, and
provide better service to customers.
DESIGN FOR MANUFACTURING AND ASSEMBLY IN APPAREL
Description:1. Sample Room - Sample Development Process. I. 2. Traditional Plant - Manufacturing Process. 15 BLY (DFMA) is defined as a methodology used.
