Table Of ContentCelebrating Denver & Boulder’s best restaurants
& eateries with recipes & photographs
D
e
n
Ruth Tobias is a Denver-based food and
v
beverage writer, assistant editor at Sommelier
e
Journal, and author of the blog Denveater. “For the first time the hottest chefs and eateries in Denver-Boulder’s
r
vibrant culinary scene are corralled in one volume. Foodies
She is also the author of Food Lovers’ Guide Landscape has everything to do with who
will discover must-visit restaurants as well as recipes that
to Denver & Boulder (Globe Pequot Press). & Coloradans are and thus how they cook, eat,
offer a true taste of Colorado and superlative photos by
Kreacneisvaesd-b hoerrn B aAn din O Eknlaghlioshm far-obmre dth, eT oUbniaivse rsity —John Lehndorcffh,e ff-oprhmoetro gdrianpinhge rc Crihtirci,s R Coicnkay. ”M ountain News, B X T R A O R jD I NA8RY RiECIPES FR abnodys d arnindk o. uRtulagwgse donf ethsse iWs ai lgdi vWene:s tTh haev ceo twh-eir
of California at Los Angeles in 1992 and her and food editor, Boulder Daily Camera o E OM modern-day equivalents in chefs and back-
u to-the-land enthusiasts who forage for forest
MFA in poetry from the University of Iowa "Visually sumptuous and a darn fine read to boot, Denver &
DENVER & BOULDER
mushrooms when they’re not tending to their
Writers’ Workshop in 1995. In 1997, she moved Boulder Chef’s Table takes readers on an engaging tour of top-shelf l
eateries and their signature recipes. Ruth Tobias’s effervescent prose D beehives and chicken coops. This sense of
east to study literature as a PhD candidate at CHEF’S TABLE
makes this a must-have volume for the Front Range foodie.” adventure and emphasis on locally sourced in-
Boston University; it was there that her fasci- e
—Clay Fong, restaurant reviewer, Boulder Weekly
r gredients are imparted on every plate served in
nation with all things edible and potable began
to alter her career plans, and since the turn of “If anyone knows her way around the Denver and Boulder RUTH TOBIAS Denver and Boulder’s restaurants and eateries.
C
the millennium she has been publishing her food scene it’s Ruth Tobias, who is among the most adventurous T Photography by Christopher Cina G E Combined with a spotlight on cooking tradi-
work in regional and national publications, and committed eaters I know. This spirited, h HE COLORADO FRON T R A N tions from around the world, the Front Range
well-researched book is a treasure.”
e dining scene has never felt so exciting and
completing certificate programs along the way
—Tucker Shaw, senior editor for features
f vibrant, all the while set against a singular
at The Cambridge School of Culinary Arts and entertainment, Denver Post
’s backdrop: the Rocky Mountains.
and the International Wine Guild in Denver—
where she now lives with her partner, Brit, and T
Denver & Boulder Chef’s Table gathers the
cats, Jasper and Myshkin. a
cities’ best chefs and restaurants under one
B
roof, featuring recipes for the home cook
l
Cover photographs by Christopher Cina e from over fifty of the region’s most celebrated
Author photo by Brit Withey restaurants and showcasing full-color photos of
mouth-watering dishes, award-winning chefs,
and lots of local flavor.
Lyons Press is an imprint of
Globe Pequot Press
Guilford, Connecticut Lyons
LyonsPress.com Press
Celebrating Denver & Boulder’s best restaurants
& eateries with recipes & photographs
D
e
n
Ruth Tobias is a Denver-based food and
v
beverage writer, assistant editor at Sommelier
e
Journal, and author of the blog Denveater. “For the first time the hottest chefs and eateries in Denver-Boulder’s
r
vibrant culinary scene are corralled in one volume. Foodies
She is also the author of Food Lovers’ Guide Landscape has everything to do with who
will discover must-visit restaurants as well as recipes that
to Denver & Boulder (Globe Pequot Press). & Coloradans are and thus how they cook, eat,
offer a true taste of Colorado and superlative photos by
Kreacneisvaesd-b hoerrn B aAn din O Eknlaghlioshm far-obmre dth, eT oUbniaivse rsity —John Lehndorcffh,e ff-oprhmoetro gdrianpinhge rc Crihtirci,s R Coicnkay. ”M ountain News, B X T R A O R jD I NA8RY RiECIPES FR abnodys d arnindk o. uRtulagwgse donf ethsse iWs ai lgdi vWene:s tTh haev ceo twh-eir
of California at Los Angeles in 1992 and her and food editor, Boulder Daily Camera o E OM modern-day equivalents in chefs and back-
u to-the-land enthusiasts who forage for forest
MFA in poetry from the University of Iowa "Visually sumptuous and a darn fine read to boot, Denver &
DENVER & BOULDER
mushrooms when they’re not tending to their
Writers’ Workshop in 1995. In 1997, she moved Boulder Chef’s Table takes readers on an engaging tour of top-shelf l
eateries and their signature recipes. Ruth Tobias’s effervescent prose D beehives and chicken coops. This sense of
east to study literature as a PhD candidate at CHEF’S TABLE
makes this a must-have volume for the Front Range foodie.” adventure and emphasis on locally sourced in-
Boston University; it was there that her fasci- e
—Clay Fong, restaurant reviewer, Boulder Weekly
r gredients are imparted on every plate served in
nation with all things edible and potable began
to alter her career plans, and since the turn of “If anyone knows her way around the Denver and Boulder RUTH TOBIAS Denver and Boulder’s restaurants and eateries.
C
the millennium she has been publishing her food scene it’s Ruth Tobias, who is among the most adventurous T Photography by Christopher Cina G E Combined with a spotlight on cooking tradi-
work in regional and national publications, and committed eaters I know. This spirited, h HE COLORADO FRON T R A N tions from around the world, the Front Range
well-researched book is a treasure.”
e dining scene has never felt so exciting and
completing certificate programs along the way
—Tucker Shaw, senior editor for features
f vibrant, all the while set against a singular
at The Cambridge School of Culinary Arts and entertainment, Denver Post
’s backdrop: the Rocky Mountains.
and the International Wine Guild in Denver—
where she now lives with her partner, Brit, and T
Denver & Boulder Chef’s Table gathers the
cats, Jasper and Myshkin. a
cities’ best chefs and restaurants under one
B
roof, featuring recipes for the home cook
l
Cover photographs by Christopher Cina e from over fifty of the region’s most celebrated
Author photo by Brit Withey restaurants and showcasing full-color photos of
mouth-watering dishes, award-winning chefs,
and lots of local flavor.
Lyons Press is an imprint of
Globe Pequot Press
Guilford, Connecticut Lyons
LyonsPress.com Press
X T R A O R jD I NA8RY RiECIPES FR
E O
M
DENVER & BOULDER
CHEF’S TABLE
RUTH TOBIAS
Photography by Christopher Cina E
THE COLORADO FRON T R A N G
00_DBCT_i-xiii_v55.indd 1 6/13/13 9:35 AM
Copyright © 2013 Morris Book Publishing, LLC
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any
information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing from
the publisher. Requests for permission should be addressed to Globe Pequot Press, Attn: Rights
and Permissions Department, PO Box 480, Guilford, CT 06437.
Lyons Press is an imprint of Globe Pequot Press.
All photography by Christopher Cina
Editor: Kevin Sirois
Project Editor: Tracee Williams
Text Design: Libby Kingsbury
Layout Artist: Nancy Freeborn
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Tobias, Ruth, 1970-
Denver & Boulder chef’s table : extraordinary recipes from the Colorado Front Range / Ruth
Tobias ; photography by Christopher Cina. — First [edition].
pages cm
Summary: “Landscape has everything to do with who Coloradans are and thus how they
cook, eat, and drink. With a spotlight on cooking traditions from around the world, the Front
Range dining scene has never felt so exciting and vibrant, all the while set against a singular
backdrop: the Rocky Mountains. Denver & Boulder Chef’s Table gathers the cities’ best chefs
and restaurants under one roof, featuring recipes for the home cook from over fifty of the region’s
most celebrated restaurants and showcasing full-color photos of mouth-watering dishes, award-
winning chefs, and lots of local flavor”— Provided by publisher.
ISBN 978-0-7627-8640-4 (hardback)
1. Cooking, American—Western style. 2. Cooking—Colorado—Denver. 3. Cooking—Colorado—
Boulder. 4. Restaurants—Colorado—Denver—Guidebooks. 5. Restaurants—Colorado—
Boulder—Guidebooks. 6. Denver (Colo.)—Guidebooks. 7. Boulder (Colo.)—Guidebooks. I. Title.
II. Title: Denver and Boulder chef’s table.
TX715.2.W47T63 2013
641.59788—dc23
2013017845
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Restaurants and chefs often come and go, and menus are ever-changing.
We recommend you call ahead to obtain current information before
visiting any of the establishments in this book.
00_DBCT_i-xiii_v55.indd 2 6/13/13 9:35 AM
Contents
acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix
introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .xi
Ace Eat Serve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Crispy Beef with Spicy Sauce
Arugula Bar e Ristorante . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Pork Scaloppini with Speck & Montasio Potatoes
Sweet Potato, Parsnip & Beet Gratin
Beatrice & Woodsley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Scottish Salmon Tartare with Sweet Corn Vinaigrette, Charred Haricots Verts & Herb Salad
Blueberry-and-Lemon Curd Pain Perdu with Buttermilk Ice Cream & Lavender Sugar
Biker Jim’s Gourmet Dogs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Malaysian Curry Jam
Irish Car Bomb Cheesecake
Bistro Vendôme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Roast Chicken with Herbed Jus, Cauliflower Gratin & Mâche Salad in Tarragon Vinaigrette
The Bitter Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Death on the Bearskin Rug
Bittersweet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Seared Rockfish with Warm Crab-Kale Salad & Vanilla Consommé
Maple-Cured Duck Ham with Fall Fruit Salad & Smoked Raisin Vinaigrette
Blackbelly Catering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Smoked Rainbow Trout Salad with Green Chile–Cornbread Pudding
Black Cat Farm~Table~Bistro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
The Fall Also Rises
Bones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Escargot Potstickers
00_DBCT_i-xiii_v55.indd 3 6/13/13 9:35 AM
Cafe Aion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Braised Oxtail with Figs & Chickpeas
Braised Octopus with Olives & Cilantro
Central Bistro & Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Pork Chops with Peach Barbecue Sauce, White Cheddar Grits & Peach Salad
Corn-and-Bacon Risotto with Wisconsin Cheese Curds & Paprika Oil
ChoLon Modern Asian Bistro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Kaya Toast with Poached Eggs & Coconut Jam
Colt & Gray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Grass-Fed Beef Heart Tartare with Bread Soufflés, Diced Beets & Quail Egg Yolk
$400 Handcart
Cured . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
The French Fig
The Spicy Frenchman
Elway’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Lamb Fondue
Euclid Hall Bar & Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
House Pickles
Flagstaff House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Lobster Soup with Rice & Shiitakes
Frasca Food and Wine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Chestnut Soup
Frangipane Pear Tart
Fruition Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Fruition Farms Shepherd’s Halo with Semolina Zeppole, Tomato Marmalade, Olive Oil Jam
& Pickled Red Onion Salad
Heirloom Tomato-and-Fried Eggplant Salad with Roasted Eggplant Hummus, Fruition Farms Ricotta
& Toasted Pine Nut Emulsion
Green Russell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Central Park
iv Contents
00_DBCT_i-xiii_v55.indd 4 6/13/13 9:35 AM
The Inventing Room . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Shaved Vegetables with Smoked Olive Oil, Goat Cheese Marbles & Toasted Pecans
S’mores-Style Spring Rolls with Strawberry-Ginger Dipping Sauce
Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Ahi Tuna with Fingerling Potato–Andouille Hash & Grana Padano Vinaigrette
Jenna Johansen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Sai Krok (Isaan Sour Sausage)
Jonesy’s EatBar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
St. Louis–Style Gooey Butter Cake
Autumn Sangria
The Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Cassoulet
Grilled Broccoli with Anchoïade Dressing
Lala’s Wine Bar + Pizzeria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Cauliflower Gnocchi with Roasted Kale & Limoncello Broth
Date-Walnut Cake with Toffee Sauce
Lao Wang Noodle House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Chinese Cold Noodles with Chicken
Leaf Vegetarian Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Apricot Deviled Eggs
Jamaican Jerk Tempeh with Black Rice, Coconut-Plantain Sauce & Fruit Salsa
Le Grand Bistro & Oyster Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Bouillabaisse
Lola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Whole Colorado Striped Bass Veracruz with Chimichurri Verde Rice & Candied Red Onions
Los Carboncitos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Salsa Verde
Avocado Sauce
Orange Salsa
Salsa Roja
Contents v
00_DBCT_i-xiii_v55.indd 5 6/13/13 9:35 AM
Lou’s Food Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
Blackened Fish Sandwich with Celery Root Remoulade
Masterpiece Delicatessen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Seared Ahi Tuna Sandwich
White-Truffled Egg Salad Sandwich
OAK at Fourteenth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
East Aspen Heights
Across the Atlantic
Palace Arms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Foie Gras with Pear-Apple Compote, Côteaux du Layon Gelée, Port-Balsamic Reduction & Brioche
Artichoke Soup with “Ham-and-Cheese” Sandwiches
Panzano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Rosemary Tagliatelle with Lemon Emulsion, Cranberries & Pine Nuts
Fried Brussels Sprouts with Cider Reduction & Rosemary Pistachios
Parallel Seventeen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Ginger-and-Coconut Encrusted Calamari with Sweet Chili Sauce
Phat Thai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Caramel Pork Belly with Watermelon Pickle & Thai Basil Salad
Blueberry Lemonade
Pizzeria Locale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
Insalata Artigianale
Punch Bowl Social Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Baked Beans
Racines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Nutty Cheese Salad with Honey-Mustard Dressing
Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
Colorado Peach-and-Corn Flatbread
Row 14 Bistro & Wine Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Kalbi Shortribs with Green Papaya Slaw
Savoy Spinach Salad with Candied Almonds, Tomato Confit & Green Goddess Dressing
vi Contents
00_DBCT_i-xiii_v55.indd 6 6/13/13 9:35 AM
The Squeaky Bean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Beet Salad with Aerated Gouda, Basil Pudding & Nut Butter
Steuben’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Meatloaf
Street Kitchen Asian Bistro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Blue Crab–and–Goat Cheese Rangoons with Ginger-Pear Dipping Sauce
Sushi Tora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Hama Chili
TAG . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
“Surf-and-Turf” Bison-and-Lobster Sushi
Venison Tataki with Beets, Arugula Pesto, Aged Gouda & Honey
Tamayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
Sopa de Elote (Roasted Corn Soup with Huitlacoche Dumpling)
Trillium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Steelhead Trout Raaka
Lemon-and-Dill Pickled Shrimp
twelve restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
Chilled Melon Soup with Fresh Ricotta, Prosciutto & Basil
“Chicken Fried” Ris de Veau with Country Gravy, Potato Puree & Poppy Seed Slaw
Vesta Dipping Grill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
Chili-Orange Rib Tips with Thai Basil–Buttermilk Dip & Coriander Sugar
Zengo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Thai Chicken Empanadas
glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206
about the author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
about the photographer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210
Contents vii
00_DBCT_i-xiii_v55.indd 7 6/13/13 9:35 AM
viii Denver & Boulder Chef’s Table
00_DBCT_i-xiii_v55.indd 8 6/13/13 9:35 AM
