David Tanis Market Cooking: Themes and Variations, Ingredient by Ingredient

481 Pages·2017·53.532 MB·English

by  Tanis, David

DAVID
TANIS
MARKET
COOKING
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DAVID
TANIS
MARKET
COOKI NG
Recipes and Revelations
Ingredient by Ingredient
Photographs by Evan Sung
ARTISAN New York
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Text copyright © 2017 by David Tanis
Photographs copyright © 2017 by Evan Sung
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be
reproduced—mechanically, electronically, or by any other
means, including photocopying—without written permission
of the publisher.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is on file.
ISBN 978-1-57965-628-7
Cover and book design by James Casey
Cover photographs by Evan Sung
Artisan books are available at special discounts when
purchased in bulk for premiums and sales promotions as well
as for fund-raising or educational use. Special editions or
book excerpts also can be created to specification. For details,
contact the Special Sales Director at the address below, or send
an e-mail to [email protected].
Published by Artisan
A division of Workman Publishing Company Co., Inc.
225 Varick Street
New York, NY 10014-4381
artisanbooks.com
Published simultaneously in Canada by
Thomas Allen & Son, Limited
Printed in China
First printing, October 2017
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Also by David Tanis
A Platter of Figs
Heart of the Artichoke
One Good Dish
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CONTENTS
Where Cooking Begins 9
ALLIUMS UNITED
Garlic, Always 14 • Onions 40 • Leeks 52
Shallots 58 • Scallions 66
Mad for VEGETABLES
Lettuces & Leaves 76 • Glorious Herbs 94 • Asparagus 114
Cucumbers 124 • Zucchini & Summer Squash 132 • Peas 140
Fennel 148 • Corn 158 • Greens 172 • Artichokes & Cardoons 184
Fresh Beans 196 • Dried Beans & Legumes 210 • Tomatoes 230
Sweet Peppers 250 • Eggplants 262 • Potatoes 270 • Beets 286
Parsnips 292 • Carrots 300 • Turnips 308 • Radishes 312
Celery & Celeriac 320 • Cauliflower 326 • Cabbage & Co. 336
Winter Squash 346 • Mushrooms 352
The Art of Seasoning
Salt to Taste 368 • A Sampling of Fragrant Spices 370 • Hot Chiles 396
KITCHEN ESSENTIALS
Oh, for a Good Egg 430 • Home-Cultured Dairy 436
A Pot of Rice 441 • Two Super-Simple Italian Pastas 444
Easy Asian Noodle Dishes 446 • A Few Baked Goods 450
Basic Broths 459
Lingering at the table 462
Acknowledgments 468
Index 469
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WHERE COOKING BEGINS
When I say “market cooking,” I’m referring to
a common French term. If a French chef (or an
acclaimed home cook) is asked which cuisine is
his or her specialty, the response may well be “la
cuisine du marché.” It would be my response too. It
implies a philosophy as much as a style of cooking.
Loosely translated, it means: I go to the market, see
what looks best, and then decide what will go on
the menu.
The fresh ingredients provide inspiration for the meal. I don’t go with a fixed idea
of what I want; I look for the most sparkly fish, the most tantalizing vegetables.
I want them to be fresh, local, and seasonal—hardly a new concept, but a most
admirable one. The best cooking I know depends upon it. It’s the age-old,
traditional, normal way, even if today’s chefs and foodies lay claim to the farm-to-
table moniker. A new generation is discovering the value of foraging, seeking out
organic produce, and cooking over live fire. These are ancient practices. And for
much of human history, sourcing local and seasonal produce was not a lifestyle
choice—it was the only way to cook.
A key aspect of market cooking is simplicity—letting the natural flavors of
the ingredients shine. Delicious food doesn’t have to be complicated. When
tomatoes are truly vine-ripened, a little salt and olive oil are all you need. A
roasted head of garlic gives immediate satisfaction; freshly picked asparagus
needs just a few minutes of steaming and a good vinaigrette.
How did we stray so far from this place-based, seasonal approach? One-stop
shopping at big-box stores may be convenient, but several stops at a couple of
smaller shops may make a great difference. It means not settling for generic
industrial eggs when a side trip from life’s busy thoroughfare will give you a
better egg and a better meal. And perhaps a small adventure to boot. There really
can be joy in marketing.
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