Table Of ContentCUT HAIR
AT HOME
LIKE A PRO
By Steven Woodham, Barber/Stylist
Illustrated by Wai Man Chan*
-Fully Illustrated
-Easy to Understand
-Save Money Doing Home Haircuts
CUT HAIR AT HOME
LIKE A PRO
BY STEVEN ROSS WOODHAM
Illustrated by Wai Man Chan*
Text and illustrations copyright © 1992 by Steven R. Woodham.
All rights reserved. Reproduction in any manner without written
permission of Steven R. Woodham is prohibited except for brief
quotations used in connection with reviews of this book.
Original Edition first printing August ©1992
Second Edition, ©2002
ISBN Pending
Steve’s Haircuts and Hairstyles
PO Box 143
Murrieta, CA 92564
*Cover illustration and those initialed were drawn by the author.
The material in this book is presented as information which should be available to the public.
In most places, it is illegal to cut hair without a license. The author does not advocate breaking
the law. The author assumes no responsibility or liability for accidents or any other adverse
condition occurring as a result of the use of the material contained in this book.
II.
PREFACE
This book would not have been possible without all the support and encouragement which
I received from my wife Merlinda. Several other people deserve my sincere gratitude for
their help in producing this book. Thanks to Vic Levi, Dr. R. H. Chavalier, Martin Giavelli,
Wai Man Chan, Ms O’Neal (art teacher for San Pascual Academy), Mike Steinmeyer,
Mary Thera, and Jim D. Jones. Last, but not the least, my niece, Jessica, who appears with
me on the cover illustration.
STEVEN ROSS WOODHAM
Author
Dedicated to my late grandfather, Ross Russo, barber stylist and respected businessman, who
was a master of his craft. Grandpa gave me my first haircut.
III.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION ………………………………………………………. 1
FOREWORD ……………………………………………………………. 2
Chapter 1 TOOLS ………………………………………………………. 3
types of tools; scissors; combs; water bottle; chair cloth
clippers; small clippers; other tools; introduction to 3 basic
methods; trim, layer and clipper.
Chapter 2 THE TRIM …………………………………………………… 8
the trim defined; 3 tips for a good trim; how to trim long
hair; how to hold shears; how to trim bangs; how to trim sides
of long hair; how to frame short hair.
Chapter 3 LAYERING HAIR ………………………………………….. 18
layering defined; simple “shaggy cut”; lifting hair with
comb; step by step basic layer cut; how to use thinning
shears; diagrams of common layer cuts.
Chapter 4 CLIPPER CUTS …………………………………………….. 33
similar to slicing hair; clipper attachments; buzz/butch cut;
simple regulation type cut; simple marine cut; tapering the
hair (shingling); step by step taper; specialty clipper cuts;
standard flat top cut.
Chapter 5 AFRO-TYPE HAIR CUTTING …………………………….. 44
beard trimming principles; step by step Afro-cut.
Chapter 6 HOW TO CUT YOUR OWN HAIR ………………………... 47
four tips for cutting your own hair.
Chapter 7 PROS and CONS of A CAREER IN HAIRSTYLING …… 48
EPILOGUE (and TIPS) …………………………………………………. 50
GLOSSARY ……………………………………………………………. 51
IV.
FOREWORD
Anyone can cut hair. All it takes is a desire to do so and a few basic instructions.
What is most important is practice.
After a trip to the beauty salon or barber shop, most people feel as if some mystery or
secret has just been performed. It is as if someone has waved a magic wand over our
head. All we know is that after a good haircut we look a little neater and more well
groomed. The purpose of this book is to take the mystery out of cutting hair. This book
will show you the basics. In an illustrated, easy to understand, step by step format, you
will learn everything from what tools you will need to do a good job, to the three basic
methods from which all cuts and styles are derived.
It is important that you read this book completely from cover to cover before at-
tempting any of the cuts.
One word of caution: it is unlawful, in most places, to cut hair without a license. If
you are reading this book, you may want to consider becoming a licensed professional.
I have included a special section on the pros and cons of haircutting as a career for
those who may be interested. In any case, one need not be a licensed professional to
perform a professional looking haircut. I have seen several so called “home haircuts” in
my career that looked as good as what I myself, a licensed professional, could do. In the
next chapter, we will get started so you too, can cut hair like a pro.
2
Chapter 1
TOOLS
The tools you use for cutting hair are the foundation of a good haircut. You need not
spend a lot of money to get professional tools, but you must have the “right” tools. This
chapter will tell you what tools you need and how to find them. You will need some
sharp scissors, a comb, a water bottle with sprayer and something to act as a chair cloth
to drape the client. For shorter men’s haircuts, you will also need some electric clippers.
There are many other accessories you may also wish to have, such as a hand-held mirror,
clipper attachments (commonly called “rakes”), clips, etc. For flat top haircuts, you will
need a special type of comb.
SCISSORS
Of all the tools you will use to cut hair, scissors are the most important.
Any scissors will do if they meet certain criteria. The most important thing is that
they be very, very, sharp. Try this test: hold a piece of thread in one hand and let it dan-
gle in the air. If your scissors can cut through this with ease, without pulling the other
end of the thread to make it taut, then your shears are probably sharp enough. The length
of the scissors is not as important. Any shears from 3” to 8” will do as long as they feel
comfortable to the hands and fingers. Shorter scissors are a bit easier to use when cutting
large masses of hair.
What matters most concerning the length of shears is what you feel most comfortable
with. You will adjust to whatever size you use. Sometimes, good sewing shears pur-
chased new at fabric shops will work better than those cheap barber scissors included in
most home haircutting kits. If possible, try comparing a few different pairs of shears to
see which cut the best. Of course, if you are considering cutting hair professionally or
prefer to use the best, you could go to a barber or beauty supply shop and see what is
available, however, professional shears can be quite expensive. More about shears and
the proper way to hold them will be explained in the coming chapters. Some shears have
a finger rest at the end. This is nice to have but not necessary. What is most important is
that the scissors are very, very sharp and can cut with ease.
3
COMBS
You will need a 7” rectangular shaped comb. It is especially important to use the
rectangular shaped comb and not the angled taper comb you sometimes see in those
home barber kits. Here is an illustration to clarify:
7” rectangular comb
taper comb—do not use
The taper comb is difficult to work with because it is too flexible. When you try to
pick up the hair, the taper comb will bend.
WATER BOTTLE
A water bottle with a sprayer is easily obtainable at any major market. If you prefer
to be practical, you can use just about any old household cleaning bottle with a sprayer
as long as what was previously stored in the bottle has not contaminated it.
CHAIR CLOTH
You can purchase an inexpensive chair cloth at any barber or beauty supply shop.
Polyester is preferred because the hair will easily slide from this material. You really
don’t have to spend any money on this, though. An old beach towel will work just as
well if you don’t mind washing it often. A disposable 32 gallon plastic trash bag works
very well. It can be custom fit and costs less. It would be better to apply the money
saved toward the purchase of some good scissors.
4
CLIPPERS
For short haircuts ( i.e. taper/shingle, buzz/butch, flat tops, G. I.), you will also need
some electric clippers. The main thing to look for is that the blades are sharp and actually
cutting the hair. Also, check to see that the clipper blades are not loose. It is best to get a
clipper that plugs into a wall outlet. Battery operated clippers are better for trimming the
neck, sideburns, and outlining beards and mustache. If your clippers are second hand, you
will probably need to clean the blades with a toothbrush, add a little clipper or sewing ma-
chine oil to the blades and tighten up any loose screws. An old toothbrush will work well to
keep hair from building up on the blades. By the way, dog clippers will work on human hair
as well (just make sure to remove the fleas).
Beware of those cheap clippers sold at department stores. Some of them just don’t have
sharp enough blades to do the job. For a better set of clippers at a reasonable price, it is best
to purchase them from a beauty or barber supply store.
SMALL CLIPPERS (“EDGER”)
Many small clippers are battery operated. These clippers are commercially sold at many de-
partment stores and called “beard trimmers.” Some electric razors have this type of trimmer
built into them. You will use these clippers only for the neck and sideburns.
You don’t really need this type of clipper if you have the plug-in type mentioned above;
however, the small clippers are a convenient accessory for trimming necks and also for
touching-up between haircuts.
OTHER TOOLS (FLAT TOP COMBS TO THINNING SHEARS)
If you are planning on cutting a flat top style cut, you will need a special “flat top comb”
available only at barber supply stores. You may also need some clipper attachments known
as “rakes.” For cutting Afro-type hair, you will need a fork-type comb.
A good hairstyle begins with a good cut. There are really only 3 basic ways to cut hair: trim-
ming, layering, and clipper cutting. I will discuss each of these in detail in the coming chap-
ters. To change the style after the cut can involve using curling irons, rollers, curlers, blow-
dryers, ratting hair, hair spray, gels, etc. One haircut can be manipulated to create several dif-
ferent “looks.” Much of this is up to the creativity of the hairstylist or the client. Many
women have a natural inclination for developing different styles as a result of years of ex-
perimenting with hair. There are no right or wrong ways to cut and style hair. What is really
important is the end result. How does it look? If the client likes the haircut, then you have
succeeded in cutting hair the right way. If you plan on working with long hair, it is good to
have a blow-dryer. If you plan on working with extremely fine or light colored hair, you will
need some blending shears also known as “thinning shears.” These are those funny looking
scissors with teeth instead of normal blades. You will see barbers use these scissors some-
times.
