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HARMONY
T
he Dubrovnik-Neretva the Roman-German empire, the
county is rich in carefully Ottoman empire, Habsburg’s and
cultivated landscape and places Napoleon’s empire. Situated on
with long history. Numerous mon- such a crossroads, a small town like
uments, archives and magnificent Dubrovnik managed, through the
treasuries testify to this. It is the political artfulness of its nobles,
region of the historic towns of to achieve a wide and complete
Dubrovnik, KorËula, Ston; the re- form of self-government. Thus for
mains of ancient Narona and the centuries it acted as a sovereign
lost, possibly sunken town of Epi- state, the Republic of Dubrovnik.
daur; of important harbours of PloËe and MetkoviÊ; of com- Dubrovnik turned its independence into a cult of freedom,
munities of great historical importance — Cavtat, Lopud, stressed on every possible occasion by its statesmen, envoys
Slano, Mali Ston, OrebiÊ; and of a few dozen little villages and poets. In 1929, Bernard Shaw, the famous Irish writer,
blending into the landscape of the coast or a river bank, of wrote: “Those who wish to see heaven on earth should come
a hill or a field. Also, there are about a hundred renaissance to Dubrovnik”. He was not only praising the glorious his-
summer houses built by merchants, nobles and seamen in tory of Dubrovnik, but also the natural features of the whole
nice bays, or on the edges of valleys, surrounded by gardens region, known today as the Dubrovnik-Neretva county.
and parks. On certain sites, these summer Indeed, if anyone attempted to fit together
houses were built in spectacular rows, like in natural characteristics in order to achieve a
Rijeka DubrovaËka, on the island of ©ipan, in perfect harmony between man and nature,
Konavle. Many different sovereign and ma- surely he would leave out some of the diver-
rine powers touched and clashed in this area sity that God has granted to this region.
throughout its turbulent history: Byzantium,
the Saracens, Croatia, Normandy, Venice, Above: St Mark’s Cathedral in KorËula; A detail of the Neretva delta;
the islet of Saint Mary on the Mljet lakes.
some small kingdoms and principalities, then Right: Lovrijenac Fortress, along with the walls, numerous turrets, bastions
and fortifications, is the manifest expression of Dubrovnik’s view of the
the Hungaro-Croatian state and through it
preciousness of freedom.
TREASURY
T
hroughout his- he entered the town. The proud com-
tory, Dubrovnik munity also trusted the creator of the
has prided itself on fountain, Pietro di Partino da Milano
its abundant water — a sculptor and the court artist of the
supplies. In the Aragons — with the construction of
scorching Medi- the stone reliefs on Kneæev dvor, one
terranean, where each drop of water is of of the symbols of Dubrovnik’s identity. He also designed the re-
essential value, the first thing that catches liefs on the fountains, intended to be an indication of the town’s
the eye after entering the city through prosperity. Not even the much more powerful rival town of Ven-
any of its entrances is a richly decorated, ice could afford such extravagance. The people of KorËula, under
fast-flowing fountain. This has been so ever Venetian rule, were expected to carefully collect every drop of
since the fourth decade of the 15th century. water as a gift from heaven. In KorËula, the cisterns were often
Fountains have always been the most obvi- empty, and the barrels full of vintage wine. From some of the sil-
ous symbols of the town’s prosperity. ver passing through the town, the images of saints and patrons for
From the distant mines situated the churches of Dubrovnik were made. Even after
in the surrounding area, silver was transported a large number of earthquakes, fires and other
to Dubrovnik by dangerous routes, to be adversities, the town’s churches, cathedral
exported by sea. Dubrovnik could offer and convents still pride themselves on their
the most precious kind of silver, called treasury of gold and silver objects. All this
“glama”, an alloy of silver and gold. Prof- time, plenty of fresh water irrigates the
its from the silver trade made it possible rich and fertile soil of the Neretva delta!
to build a very complex water-supply sys-
tem. This would carry water from a dis- Above: Navicula, a silver receptacle for frankincense in the shape of the
Dubrovnik-made ship, nave; A silver statute of St Blaise, Dubrovnik’s
tant spring to the town, to shine as silver patron saint; Sponza Palace, the main commercial and financial
centre of medieval Dubrovnik; Onofrio’s Little Fountain.
itself and dazzle every visitor as soon as
Right: Traditional way of making jewelry.
WORLD MARITIME
POWER
D
ubrovnik, one of the smallest cities, larger Venice. Here rose another exceptional
enjoyed great importance in the move- town, KorËula, situated on the narrowest of pas-
ment of goods and travelers in Europe for a sages full of small reefs. From the time of Ven-
thousand years. The city was awarded this role ice, KorËula was used as the most convenient
due to its exceptional geographical position and point for the monitoring of traffic. Both towns
held onto it for a long time. It is the last protected point along the are built upon cliffs protecting extensive ports. The roles of both
sailing route from the ports of the North-western Adriatic towards towns gave them their characteristic shape and their particular
the south-east. South of Dubrovnik, the only thing facing sail- town plan. Many of the streets in KorËula lead to the highest point
ing boats is the deep, open sea. of the town, the bell-tower of
During bad weather, Dubrovnik the Cathedral of St Mark. The
“The residents of Dubrovnik have a lot of its almost monopolistic commercial position. The boom which
presented a safe haven for trav- streets of Dubrovnik descend ships which sail far.” (El Idrisi, 12th c.)
A safe journey was guaranteed by skilful followed saw an unprecedented growth in the commercial fleet
ellers patiently waiting for calm- from the clifftops to the bay, shipbuilders, numerous coastal fortifications
which competed with the largest of the maritime fleets in the
and lighthouses.
er seas or for those travelling by towards the wide main street
Mediterranean. As the number of commercial ships carrying
land to destinations like Con- called Stradun. The strength
Dubrovnik flags grew, so did their nave, specifically constructed
stantinople, the wealthy cities of Dubrovnik resulted from its
boats from Dubrovnik shipbuilders. The largest boats from the
of the East and the Holy Land. skill in diplomacy which the
shipyard could only be lowered into the sea on their starboard
This is how this strong citadel, political elite often took advan-
side. This unique procedure is still not easily adopted by con-
a safe refuge for travellers, be- tage of for their own benefit.
temporary shipyards. And today, for lovers of hand-crafted boats,
came one of the most important By intelligent manoeuvring, it
natives of KorËula still construct them; boats which evolved from
points along the world travel benefitted from the Turkish ad-
centuries of life beside the sea.
route. Tiny Dubrovnik thus be- vance towards Central Europe
came the counterpoint to the in the 16th century to establish
MARCO POLO
M
any documents mention recollections to a writer of chivalrous novels Rustichello. So
the town of KorËula and it was that in the Old French language emerged the most
the island of the same name in the translated book of all times, after the Bible, whose original
Dubrovnik region as being the place of origin of the Polo title was Divisament don Monde (The description of the
family, from which its most famous member, Marco, by world), later called Il Milione, which means “A million
way of Venice set forth towards the East. KorËula is one wonders”. The appearance and expansion of the writings
of the best preserved planned medieval Mediterranean about the trips of Marco Polo, his father and uncle, meant
towns, whose layout dates back to the XIII century. Due to a shift of the Eastern border of the known world. The va-
its developed shipping trade, the town was always adorned riety of Marco Polo’s observations and acquired knowledge
with a progressive and open spirit. A high degree of order enabled historians, sociologist, geographers, ethnologists
in town life is confirmed by the town statute from 1214, and anthropologists to create, or evoke an image of the new
which corresponds in time with similar provisions in the world. Europeans first heard about Tibet, Madagascar, Ja-
most developed European towns. Along with the origin of pan and other countries from Marco Polo, they heard about
his family, the maritime battle of the two trade Republics paper money, coal, oil and porcelain for the first time, they
of Genoa and Venice in 1298, one of the largest and most were awed by the descriptions of wondrous landscapes,
vicious maritime battles in useful plants, unusual ani-
Medieval times, also links mals and spices; some Chi-
Marco Polo with KorËula. nese inventions like blocks
The Polo galleon was in the in printing and gun powder
Venetian fleet, under the were a great novelty in the
command of Marco himself, West, while the compass be-
who was then 44 years of came an essential instrument
age. Captured, in a Genoese in navigation. However, in
jail he began writing books the end, Europeans and later
in which he summarised his everyone else became lov-
twenty-four year stay in, at ers of the Chinese culinary
the time, unexplored parts of product spaghetti which was
the world. As he wasn’t much brought to their table by this
of a writer, he dictated his great world traveller.
S
ailing or motor boating, rowing, swimming, spear
or big game fishing; these sports have their roots
in this and surrounding areas. One of the oldest row-
ing lanes in this part of the
world was established by the
Austrian Emperor and King
Francis Joseph in Rijeka
DubrovaËka. The windsurf
area in front of Viganj near
OrebiÊ, which enjoys the
best weather conditions for
this sport in the whole of the
Adriatic, was the site of the
European Championship in
1990. Traditionally, water-
polo is the most popular sport
in the region. It is a spectacular experience to witness
one of the Jug games in the strongest league in the world
— the Croatian water-polo league. For those interested in
sub-aqua pursuits, either as a challenge or a novelty, there
are diving schools on Mljet and in PriπËapac on the island
of KorËula. Sailing enthusiasts will be able to satisfy their
needs in the three well-equipped marinas in Dubrovnik,
KorËula and Lumbarda, as well as numerous other har-
bours. Those interested in competitive sailing will remem-
ber well the spectacular climax of the World Champion-
ship and a traditional international regatta Bari — Trani
— KorËula — Dubrovnik.
Boat trips to the River Neretva Reservations will delight
those who are interested in exploring the natural world
while enjoying a river outing.
The combination of the South Adriatic’s most crystal clear
water (J. J. Cousteau) and the locals who know how to en-
joy it, creates a wide range of opportunities for the visitor
who wishes to actively enjoy his time at the coast. Visitors
will never have trouble finding something to do — the only
problem might be finding time to do everything.
Above left: Neptune’s fountain in the Arboretum. NEPTUNE’S
Left: Mljet lakes: “The trees reach all the way down
to the sea and cast shadows over the banks; if you ride
around in a boat, you actually sail through the woods.”
(I. –ureviÊ).
WELCOME
IMAGINATION
ETCHED IN STONE
S
tone holds sway over
all the streets of Du-
brovnik, KorËula and other
towns and villages of Dal-
matia, boldly finding its
way into houses, churches,
gardens and parks. It etches
its hallmark into this ancient architecture. While still part
of nature, stone only appears to be hostile; in the walls
of houses it is sturdy and reliable; in the intricate adorn-
ments on buildings it is flexible and light; under the feet
of many passers-by it is smooth and enduring.
Since ancient times, things have been made from stone.
Time has left but a small mark upon it and indeed has
only added to its beauty and harmony with its surround-
ings. The bright sunlight does nothing to diminish its
refinement. There is noth-
ing either glamorous or os-
tentatious about it. In the
rain stony facades softly
reflect the town. Resistant
but vulnerable, hard but
fragile, stone has for centu-
ries been skillfully manipu-
lated by artisans in creating
architectural masterpieces
such as Dubrovnik, KorËula
and many small towns like
Cavtat and Ston. Their beauty and proportions congruous
with their surroundings, evoke the admiration of visitors
and, because of their perfection and enduring characters,
are the object of specialist studies.
Above: A stone detail of excavations of the ancient town of
Narona near MetkoviÊ; Dubrovnik, a view of the town.
Right: A sculpture of Lumbarda on the island of KorËula;
the Dominican Monastery in Dubrovnik;
KorËula, a panorama of the town.
OPEN-AIR
PERFORMANCES
T
his small region has upon the Dubrovnik Festi-
a picturesque qual- val’s devoted audience. Du-
ity, with people who have not brovnik has with ease reached
abandoned their traditional the heights of Helsignor,
way of life, as if it were a vast Taurida, Rome and Verona
stage on which the most sub- and it seems to us that these
tle of performances was be- universal works were written
ing acted out-life itself. The expressly for the Dubrovnik
visitor finds remarkable charm in its exotic rural character but stage. Dubrovnik though will remain the one and only Du-
even more so when it erupts dazzlingly with festivals, proces- brovnik and every classic performance on its stage is an un-
sions and carnivals — from ∆ilipi to Lastovo, from Dubrovnik repeatable experience. In 1933, a performance of the pastoral
to KorËula and MetkoviÊ. ‘Dubravka’ written by Dubrovnik’s Ivan GunduliÊ, the great
The city of Dubrovnik is a pageant of such open picturesque classic writer, and performed to great acclaim on the stage
scenes. Fortifications, bridges, palaces, balconies, chapels, before the Rector’s Palace, is known as the first Dubrovnik
terraces, town squares, streets, monastic cloisters — the Festival. As early as 1950, Dubrovnik with its summer fes- Left: A concert directed by Herbert von Karajan at the
Summer Festival; KorËula as an open-air stage.
city is full of theatre — like atmosphere and tival was heralded a world phenomenon in
The opening of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival which
rhythm. The events have already long been new theatre. Surrounded by the architectural takes place every year from July 10 to August 25.
Above: The Gonzalo Rubalcaba Quartet, a top-class
discovered, for both the performers and the beauty of Dubrovnik, actors from around the concert at the Jazz Festival.
audience. There is a difference between the world have found the inspiration to bring to
sound of steps on the city stone pavements life renaissance sensibility, and revel in their
and those on the floorboards of the theatre. In closer contact with the audience. The festival
this architecture of gentility and harmony, di- has brought a new and wonderful atmosphere
rectors always discover a new charm or beauty to the town, and has become one more of Du-
which for decades continue to be bestowed brovnik’s essential attributes.
RESTORATION
S
ince its very beginnings, skills once again. Today Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik has been under represents the world’s most exten-
threat from various dangers: earth- sive restoration project. Once again,
quakes, infernos and wars. Restora- uncompromisingly, only traditional
tion has thus, over the centuries, techniques and materials are used:
been a constant concern of the city stone, wood and “kupe kanalice” (a
authorities and the people of Dubrovnik. Leading restorers, both traditional type of roofing slate). The current restoration of Du-
foreign and domestic, have competed in achieving both practical brovnik, however, is not simply a question of ancient skills and
and artistic goals. The regulations govern- modern techniques alone, it is the restoration
ing restoration have always been laid down of the historic city as well as the human ele-
by the town council: harmony and simplic- ment within it. The principles guiding the
ity and being faithful to a building’s original restoration of Dubrovnik must be observed
character, which have always resulted in the in activities and projects concerning restora-
preservation of Dubrovnik’s identity. The tion of other parts of the Dubrovnik-Neretva
appearance of the town at the time of its county, especially the towns of Ston and
inclusion in the UNESCO list of world herit- KorËula, both of which are candidates for the
age in 1979, is a result of numerous restora- UNESCO world heritage sites. The restora-
tion works executed in the past. After the tion, or rather reconstruction, of ancient Na-
1991 war, it also gained a place on the list of rona, where Vid is situated today, will reveal
endangered world heritage. International res- one of the most prosperous Adriatic settle-
toration experts are in situ, employing their ments of ancient times to the public.
CELEBRATION
OF LIFE
O
ver the long history of of mystical fervour, with the
Dubrovnik, the living Holy Mass, the afternoon
reality has always included performances and feasts,
a general insecurity and a which were attired in a blaze
ceaseless striving to preserve of colour, with bands of
freedom. Whether its ships sailed forth, their sails bellied thick smoke gushing from the trumpets and bright coloured
by a fair wind, or some misfortune compelled the citizens to standards. The Festival of St. Blaise is a ritual celebration
lick their wounds and start again from scratch, the love of the of life itself. The celebrations would resume with carnival
common good (GunduliÊ) was still the essence of their vision processions and festivities. There is always in these Dubrovnik
of Dubrava, in much the same spirit with which the ancient festivities something more to be learned about the precious
Romans honoured it, that is as delicia mundi. The ideal of the value of life. In a similar vein, there are carnival processions in
sanctity of life gave rise to a culture of beauty. Poets shaped OrebiÊ, lit by the lamps of sunken sailing ships, the carnival in
their tender feelings and dreamy images into collections of Cavtat, the Dubrovnik Diocese, Lastovo, and the Moreπka on
love poems (“canzonieri”), seeking KorËula island: a rich choreography
Above: A brass band; A procession in honour of St Blaise, Dubrovnik’s the expanse of human happiness. portraying ‘black’ and ‘white’ knights
patron saint; the folk group Maestral.
Right: the chivalric game Moreπka; A concert in the church of the Fran- Comedy gaily portrayed the richness jousting for the affections of a maiden,
ciscan Monastery; Folk costume from OrebiÊ.
of life within a prosaic setting, where with an elaborate ethical motif: the
living characters and recent events abductor is thus vanquished (see
could be recognised (DræiÊ). Besides figure on the next page).
literature, music was also a source of
the wondrous (SorkoËeviÊ). Finally,
the colourful festivals, which involved
all the townsfolk, filled Dubrovnik’s
streets and squares, as can still be
seen today during the festival of the
city’s patron saint, St. Blaise (Vlaho).
This is a magnificent procession full
