Computer-aided pattern design and product development

232 Pages·2003·9.14 MB·English

by  Alison Beazley

Computer-aided Pattern Design
and Product Development
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Computer-aided Pattern Design
and Product Development
Alison Beazley and Terry Bond
#2003byBlackwellPublishingLtd Firstpublished2003
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Contents
Preface vii Constructingagraderuletable 64
Acknowledgements ix Variationsinpositioningthezeropoint 66
Abbreviationsandsymbols x Computergradingtechniques 66
Introduction:Developmentswithincomputer- Gradingprimaryblockpatterns 71
aidedapparelsystems xi Straightskirtgradingthatretainsthe
sameproportion 72
Part1: Patternconstruction 1 Straightskirtgradingthatchanges
Bodyandgarmentmeasurements 1 theproportion 74
Takingbodymeasurementsmanually 1 Fittedbodiceandsemi-fittedsleeve
Computerisedbodymeasuringsystems 4 gradingthatretainsthesame
Sizechartformulation 8 proportion 76
Women’ssizecharts 9 Fittedbodiceandsemi-fittedsleeve
Patternconstructiontechniques 20 gradingthatchangestheproportion 79
Thepositioningofcomputerpatterns 20 Trousergradingthatretainsthesame
Creatingpatternshapesbycomputer 21 proportion 81
Techniquesforconstructingpattern Trousergradingthatchangesthe
shapes 21 proportion 84
Blockpatternconstruction 25 Gradingsecondaryblockpatterns 86
Blockpatterns 25 One-piecesemi-fitdressgrading 86
Garmentbalance 25 Knittedtopgrading 87
Garmentshapingbysuppression 27 Blousegrading 89
Easeallowance 28 Patternpreparationfordigitising 92
Influenceofthefabric 28 Settingupparametertables 92
Draftingblockpatterns 29 Checkingthemasterpattern 93
Testingblockpatterns 29 Buildinggraderuletables 95
Constructionofprimaryblockpatterns 30 Computerdigitising 95
Straightskirtblocksize12 30 Verifyingthepatterngrading 96
Fittedbodiceblocksize12 33
Straightsleeveblocksize12 38 Part3: Patterndesigningandgrading 97
Basictrouserblocksize12 40 Patterndesignprocedures 97

Constructionofsecondaryblock Skirtstyling 99
patterns 46 Gatheredskirtwithflounce 100
Semi-fittedandfittedsleeveblocks 46 Pleats 101
One-piecedressblocks 48 Flaredandgoredskirts 102
Fittedone-piecedressblock 49 Constructionofcircularskirts 105
Straightone-piecedressblock 52 Skirtstyleandyokeandpleats 109
Adaptationforasemi-fittedone-piece Pockets 111
dressblock 54 Patchpocket 111
Dartlessblocktopsandblouses 55 Pipedpocket 112
Insetpocket 113
Part2: Computerpatterngrading 61 Waistbandandplacket 114
Patterngrading 61 Bodicestyling 115
Gradingincrements 61 Pivotingadart 117
Gradepointmovement 62 Combiningdarts 118
Methodsofrecordingincremental Combiningdartsforgathering 119
growth 63 Combiningdartsintogathersata
Graderules 63 saddleyokeseam 120
v
vi Contents
Combiningdartstoformdraped Sleevepitch 172
folds 122 Variationinbodysizeandcontour 173
Incorporatingdartsintoseams 124 Smalladjustmenttothewaistsize 173
Modificationforasleevelessarmhole 126 Largeradjustmenttothewaistsize 174
Modificationforalower‘cut-away’ Incorrectsuppression 174
roundneckline 127 Prominencesoftheuppertorso 175
Collarstyling 128 Bustprominence 175
Sectionsofacollar 128 Shoulderbladeprominence 176
Collarpatterns 129 Prominencesofthelowertorso 177
Typesofcollars 130 Straightskirtmodificationfora
Methodsofconstructingcollar prominentseat 177
patterns 130 Straightskirtmodificationfora
Adaptationforaflatcollar 131 flatterseat 179
Adaptationforasemi-standcollar 132 Straightskirtmodificationforhip
Adaptationforagrown-oncollar 134 andthighprominences 180
Constructionofahigh-standcollar 136 Straightskirtmodificationfor
Adaptationforaconvertiblecollar 137 stomachprominence 180
Adaptationforatwo-piececollar 137 Trousermodificationforseat
Draftforahighrollcollar 138 prominence 182
Draftforashirtcollar 139 Trousermodificationforhipand
Sleevestyling 140 thighprominences 183
Relationshipofthesleevetothe Trousermodificationforstomach
bodice 140 prominence 184
Sleevelengths 141 CADtechnologyforcustomisation 186
Blousesleevewithbuttonedcuff 142 Computerisedmade-to-measure
Puffsleevestyles 142 systems 186
Halfpuffsleeve 143 Configurationandalterationpoints 187
Fullpuffsleevewithfrill 144 Made-to-measuregarmentalteration 190
Raglansleeve 145 Themade-to-measureCADinterface 191
Kimonostyledsleeve 147 Markermakingusingthebatch
Productionpatterns 150 process 192
Checkingthestitchingline 150 Advanced3Dpatterndesignsystems 193
Seamallowances 151
Seamcorners 153 Part5: Computerisedmarkermakingsystems 197
Hems 154 Markermakingandlayplanning 197
Facings 155 Fabricwidthsandmaterialutilisation 197
Approvalofthesamplegarmentand Markersforstripedandcheckfabrics 198
gradedpatterns 157 Placementstrategiesforfabrictype

andmatching 198
Part4: Patternmodificationforgarmentsize Planningmarkers 198
andfit 159 Optimisingmarkers 199
Assessingthefigureshapeand Computerisedfabricspreadingand
garmentfit 159 cutting 200
Variationinbonestructure 159
Height 159 Part6: Productdatamanagementsystems 201
Shoulderslant 162 PDMSystems 201
Lengthoftheupperandlowertorso 164 Organisationofdesigndata 202
Stance 165 Formadministration 203
Variationsinposture 166
Garmentbalance 166 Referencesandfurtherreading 205
Skirtwaistlevels 169 AppendixI:Indexoftechnicalterms 207
Trouserwaistlevelandseatangle 169 AppendixII:Miniaturisedblockpatterns 209
Neckwidth 171
Preface
The computer is a very useful tool that when used . Tointroduceandexplainthewiderangeofcom-
correctlycanincreaseaccuracyandproductivity,and puterprogramsavailabletotheclothingindustry
manage information. This removes the time con- forpatterndesignandproductdevelopment.
suming tasks of cutting card patterns and planning . To give guidance to those operating or planning
anddrawingmarkersbyhand,andtheduplicationof to use computer programs for pattern designing,
hand-writteninstructions.Thiscomputertechnology gradingandlayplanningbycombiningatheoret-
hasenabledtheclothingdesign,patternconstruction icalunderstandingwiththepracticalapplication.
and product development to be integrated into a . To give a reference source to students following
morecontinuousprocess. courses in Pattern Design, Clothing Technology
Computer design systems enable designers to andClothingManagement.
illustrate and visualise their designs both two and . To give knowledge and understanding of the
three dimensionally. The pattern technologist can principles for developing garments to those con-
constructandgradethepatternssimultaneously.The versant with operating computers but lacking
samplegarmentcanbeviewedthreedimensionallyin experienceinclothingproductdevelopment.
simulated fabric. The cost of the garment can be . Toassistthoseexperiencedinclothingtechnology
calculated from a computer lay plan of the pattern with the transition from manual methods to
piecesonthefabricforfabricutilisation.Havingan operatingcomputersystems.
easy access to a database assists the clothing tech-
nologisttocalculatethecostofthegarmentfortheir The book is divided into six parts for ease of refer-
specifications. ence:
However,itisessentialthatthepreparatorywork
is based on knowledge of the principles and techni- INTRODUCTION: Developments within compu-
quesofpatternconstruction,gradingandpatternlay ter-aidedapparelsystems.
planning and marker making. Initially the pre- The clothing industry has changed profoundly in
paratoryworkmayappearsomewhattimeconsum- recentyears.Globalisation,speedofinformationand
ing, but once the correct data has been put into the communication has stimulated competition. While
computeritcanbeoperatedwithconfidence. manufacturers offer unlimited designs, the problem
Thedefinitionofdesigninthecontextofthisbook is how to bring products to the market quickly and
isnotthecreationoffashionablestylesbutthepro- achieveup-to-dateinformationthatiseasilyobtain-
cedure of developing a style suitable for production able. CAD systems are now the essential tools

thatisinfluencedbythebodydimensions,thefabric required to integrate and achieve success taking the
and the production methods. Originally computer role of the ‘configurator’ between manufacture and
programsweredevelopedtogradegarmentpatterns retail.Utilisingafullrangeofelectronictools,from
into a range of sizes for lay planning and marker the ubiquitous internet to the new powerful CAD
making.Todaytherearemajorsystemsthathavethe systemscandeliverclothingatrelativelyshortcycles.
further facility for designing patterns and altering Integrationandcommunicationutilisingtheinternet
patternstothesizeandfitforanindividualcustomer. becomethenewsystemsdesignedtoachievethis.
Thepatternconstructionanddesigninthisbookis
basedonwell-triedandprovenmethodsusedinthe PART1:Patternconstruction
past by well-respected pattern makers. These meth- The obtaining of body measurements and how they
odshavebeenadaptedfortoday’scomputersystems are formulated into size charts is explained. These
but can also be drafted manually and then digitised size charts are requisite to all the pattern designing,
into the computer. All the patterns constructed for gradingandcustomisationthatfollowinPart2,Part
this book were developed using a computer pattern 3,Part4andPart5.Thevarioustechniquesofcon-
design system and are for women’s garments. They structingandmanipulatingpatternsmanuallyandby
haveallbeentestedbyproducingsamplegarments. computerarecompared.Thedraftingofbasicblock
Theintentionofthisbookis: patterns is described and their adaptation into
vii
viii Preface
secondary blocks. This knowledge assists inthe cal- titivesituation,thefirstplacethatcostreductioncan
culation of grading increments discussed in Part 2. be achieved is in fabric utilisation. It is generally
These block patterns are the foundation for design- understoodthat40%ofthefinishedgarmentcostis
ingpatternforstylesdescribedinPart3. fabric;itisalsorecognisedthat90%ofcuttingroom
costsarefabric.Parametersrelevanttolayplanning
PART2:Computerpatterngrading andmarkermakingwillbeidentified.
Theprinciplesofpatterngradingtoproducearange
of sizes are explained. How they are applied to PART6:Productdatamanagementsystems
computerised grading is covered in detail. This is Productdatamanagement(PDM)systemshavebeen
illustratedbythegradingoftheblockpatternscon- developedtoimprovetheproductandtheprocessof
structed in Part 1. The benefits of grading block the product development cycle. These systems pro-
patternspriortocomputerpatterndesignisthatthe videanautomatedmeanstocontrolandfacilitatethe
size increments are transferred on to the new style. flow of up-to-date information to authorised parti-
Thiseliminatesgradingasaseparateprocess.Alter- cipantsthroughouttheorganisation.
natively, the digitising and grading of manually PDM acts as a communication tool between
producedpatternsisalsoexplained. design, retail and manufacture, containing details
about patterns, garment construction, fabric and
PART3:Patterndesigningandgrading trims, packaging costs, quality and measurement
Thiscoversthepatternconstructionoradaptationof specifications.ItisthedirectinterfacebetweenCAD/
a variety of designs for skirts, bodices, collars and CAM systems and management information
sleeves. Suitable methods of grading are suggested. systems.
Detailsforcompletingthepatternwithseams,hems
andfacingsforproductionarealsogiven. APPENDICES
References and further reading are listed on p. 205.
PART 4:Pattern modification forgarmentsize and AppendixIgivesacomprehensiveindexoftechnical
fit termsandabbreviationsrelatedtothetext.Appendix
Thissectiongivesanintroductiontotheassessingof IIshowsreducedsizebasicblockpatternsforuseas
the figure shape and garment fit related to the sta- exercises in digitising, grading and pattern design.
ture, posture, body size and contour. The identifi- Theseareat33.3%oftheoriginalandcanbeplotted
cation of fitting faults is explained and the full-scale.
appropriatepattern corrections. Thisinformationis
in preparation for pattern alteration systems and Great improvements have been made to computer
made-to-measure. systems since the early 1990s. They are much more
‘user friendly’ today and are being continually
PART5:Computerisedmarkermakingsystems updated. The content of this book is not specific to
Ithaslongbeenrecognisedthatimprovementsatthe one specific system; the authors have used various
front end of cutting can show substantial fabric systems for testing the illustrations. The reader
savings. Fabric and trim account for about half the shouldbecomeconversantwiththesystemtheywill

totalcosts ofgoodsmanufactured, andinacompe- beusing,preferablybytrainingfromthesupplier.
Acknowledgements
We wish to express our appreciation and thanks to equipmentandquotedetailsoftheirproducts:Ger-
the following people: Poppy Thomason, Penny berGarmentTechnology,WicksandWilson,Telmat
Preddle and Anita McAdams for the time that they Informatique and the Textile/Clothing Technology
freely gave to reading the draft and constructive Corporation.Thepreparationofthisbookcouldnot
criticismofthetextanddiagrams.Wewishtothank havebeenundertakenifwehadnothadthesupport,
AileenJeffersonandJulieVernonfortheirpractical use of computer facilities and permission to use
contribution.Weappreciatethefollowingcompanies some illustrations from Manchester Metropolitan
allowing the use of published photographs of their University.

ix
Abbreviations and symbols
bk back Constructionline
BP bustpoint
Constructionline
CB centreback
(secondary)and
CF centrefront
alterationline
fr front
FS facesideofthefabric Drillhole
GRL gradereferenceline
Gradedirection
NP neckpoint
R graderule Grainline
SS sideseam
Notch
UP underarmpoint
WS wrongsideofthefabric Patternparameter
Squarecorner
at908
Stitchline
Styleline
Zeropointforgrading

x