Coastal Geomorphology: An Introduction

436 Pages·2008·14.7 MB·English

by  Eric Bird

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Coastal Geomorphology
Second Edition
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Coastal Geomorphology
An Introduction
Second Edition
Eric Bird
Principal Fellow in Geomorphology
University of Melbourne, Australia
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LibraryofCongressCataloguing-in-PublicationData
Bird,E.C.F.(EricCharlesFrederick),1930-
Coastalgeomorphology:anintroduction/EricBird.—Secondedition
p.cm.
Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex.
ISBN978-0-470-51729-1(cloth)—ISBN978-0-470-51730-7(pbk.)
1.Coasts. I.Title.
GB451.2.B552007
551.45(cid:3)7–dc22 2007039323
BritishLibraryCataloguinginPublicationData
AcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary
ISBN 978-0-470-51729-1(HB) ISBN 978-0-470-51730-7(PB)
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Contents
Preface to the second edition xi
Acknowledgements xiii
List of Figures xv
List of Tables and Panels xxiii
1 Introduction 01
1.1 Coastalgeomorphology 01
1.2 Terminology 02
1.3 Ancientcoastlines 03
1.4 Coastlinemorphology 05
1.5 Coastlinelength 07
1.6 Coastalevolution 08
1.7 Changingcoastlines 09
1.8 Summary 11
2 Coastal processes 13
2.1 Introduction 13
2.2 Waves 13
2.3 Tides 25
2.4 Stormsurges 31
2.5 Tsunamis 32
2.6 Currents 34
2.7 Nearshorewatercirculation 35
2.8 Windaction 36
2.9 Otherprocesses 36
2.10 Modellingcoastalprocesses 36
2.11 Summary 37
3 Land and sea level changes 39
3.1 Introduction 39
3.2 Meansealevel 39
3.3 Causesofsealevelchange 40
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3.4 Measuringchangesoflevel 45
3.5 Correlationanddatingofformercoastlines 46
3.6 Emergedcoastlines 46
3.7 Submergedcoastlines 51
3.8 Sealevelvariations 53
3.9 LateQuaternarysealevelchanges 53
3.10 Modernsealevelchanges 58
3.11 Recentchangesoflandandsealevel 62
3.12 Futuresealevelchanges 65
3.13 Summary 66
4 Cliffs 67
4.1 Introduction 67
4.2 Cliffevolution 69
4.3 Cliffmorphology 74
4.4 Cliffweatheringincoldclimates 85
4.5 Cliffsandbluffsonhumidtropicalcoasts 86
4.6 Cliffdissection 87
4.7 Outlinesinplanofcliffedcoasts 95
4.8 Coastallandslides 98
4.9 Ratesofcliffrecession 102
4.10 Summary 106
5 Shore platforms 107
5.1 Shoreprocesses 107
5.2 Shoreplatforms 113
5.3 Plungingcliffs 130
5.4 Summary 132
6 Beaches 133
6.1 Introduction 133
6.2 Beachsediments 134
6.3 Evolutionofbeaches 137
6.4 Provenanceofbeachsediments 138
6.5 Weatheringofbeachmaterial 160
6.6 Beachrock 161
6.7 Nearshoreprocesses 162
6.8 Beachmorphology 162
6.9 Beachoutlinesinplan 164
6.10 Beachoutlinesinprofile 171
6.11 Beachmorphodynamicsandbeachstates 179
6.12 Useofmodels 181
6.13 Beachcompartments 182
6.14 Beachbudgets 183
6.15 Tracingbeachsedimentflow 184
6.16 Lateralgrading 187
6.17 Progradingbeaches 190
6.18 Beachridges 193
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6.19 Cheniers 197
6.20 Beachlobes 198
6.21 Summary 200
7 Beach erosion 201
7.1 Introduction 201
7.2 Themultiplecausesofbeacherosion 217
7.3 Effectsofartificialstructuresonbeaches 218
7.4 Beachnourishment 219
7.5 Summary 221
8 Spits, barriers and bars 223
8.1 Introduction 223
8.2 Spits 223
8.3 Tombolos 229
8.4 Cuspateandlobatespits 230
8.5 Cuspateandlobateforelands 234
8.6 Coastalbarriersandbarrierislands 235
8.7 Intertidalsandflats 242
8.8 Barsandtroughs 242
8.9 Sandshoals 245
8.10 Ripples 245
8.11 Sandstonereefs 246
8.12 Summary 246
9 Coastal dunes 247
9.1 Introduction 247
9.2 Foredunes 250
9.3 Backshorecliffingofdunes 252
9.4 Paralleldunes 253
9.5 Blow-outsandparabolicdunes 255
9.6 Transgressivedunes 258
9.7 Cliff-topdunes 261
9.8 Dunesonshingle 261
9.9 Ratesofdunemovement 262
9.10 Dunecalcarenite 263
9.11 Machair 265
9.12 Coastaldunesinthehumidtropics 266
9.13 Oldandnewdunes 267
9.14 Dunesandrock 268
9.15 Dunelakes 268
9.16 Summary 268
10 Intertidal wetlands 271
10.1 Introduction 271
10.2 Intertidalmorphology 271
10.3 Sourcesofintertidalsediments 274
10.4 Mudflats 274
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10.5 Intertidalvegetation 276
10.6 Sea-grassbeds 276
10.7 Saltmarshes 277
10.8 Mangroves 286
10.9 Freshwaterswamps 293
10.10 Summary 294
11 Estuaries and lagoons 295
11.1 Introduction 295
11.2 Rias 295
11.3 Fiords 296
11.4 Fiards 298
11.5 Calanques 298
11.6 Sharmsandsebkhas 298
11.7 Estuaries 299
11.8 Coastallagoons 311
11.9 Summary 329
12 Deltas 331
12.1 Introduction 331
12.2 Deltacomponents 331
12.3 Deltaicprocesses 332
12.4 TheMississippidelta 334
12.5 Deltaoutlines 337
12.6 Deltaevolution 342
12.7 Deltashores 346
12.8 Summary 347
13 Coral and algal reefs 349
13.1 Introduction 349
13.2 Coralreefs 349
13.3 Originofcoralreefs 350
13.4 Ratesofgrowth 351
13.5 Fringingreefs 353
13.6 Barrierreefs 354
13.7 Atolls 357
13.8 Emergedcoralreefs 359
13.9 Islandsoncoralreefplatforms 360
13.10 Algalandotherbiogenicreefs 363
13.11 Summary 364
14 Future coasts 365
14.1 Introduction 365
14.2 Greenhouseeffectandsealevelrise 365
14.3 Generaleffectsofarisingsealevel 366
14.4 Effectsofachangingclimate 369
14.5 Effectsoncliffsandshoreplatforms 369
14.6 Effectsonbeaches,spitsandbarriers 372
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CONTENTS ix
14.7 Effectsoncoastaldunes 376
14.8 Effectsonintertidalwetlands 376
14.9 Effectsonestuariesandlagoons 379
14.10 Effectsondeltaiccoasts 380
14.11 Effectsoncoralandalgalreefs 381
14.12 Conclusion 385
14.13 Summary 385
References 387
Index 405